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  1. #1
    It's all bollocks
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    Stick with Ultegra chain, or seek alternatives?

    I'm currently using an FSA crankset with 50/34 chainrings. I'm probably going to replace it with a larger Ultegra 6600 crankset with 53/39 rings, to help me gain some speed.

    Larger chainrings will mean I need a longer chain. Question is should I stick with an Ultegra chain (which I'm using right now), or are there other 10-speed chains I ought to explore?

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Fecal indicator
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    I like the KMC I recently purchased.

    the quick-link is a nice feature.
    eff all y'all...

  3. #3
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    How much life is left on the chain?

    (I like to replace it all at the same time unless the chain is in new condition)

    I've been running ultegra but KMC is a good alternative.

  4. #4
    It's all bollocks
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    Cheers. The bike's only about 2-3 months old, so the chain's only really about 2-3 months old. The current chain is fresh, for all intents and purposes. Any specific KMC 10-speed chain to consider?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickDes View Post
    I'm currently using an FSA crankset with 50/34 chainrings. I'm probably going to replace it with a larger Ultegra 6600 crankset with 53/39 rings, to help me gain some speed.

    Cheers.

    Let's address that first. You won't gain any speed by getting bigger rings. (okay, I'm making an assumption you don't spin out 50X11)

  6. #6
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    There is nothing wrong with an ultegra chain. Some pro teams run them all the time. If I were in your shoes I would just run that ultegra chain until it stretches and then replace it. It's going to wear out eventually anyway.

    But if you want to save money with combined shipping go ahead and purchase the crank and chain together. KMC USA

  7. #7
    It's all bollocks
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    Fair point. I have spun out on some occasions going downhill. I guess what I'm suggesting is frequently I'm in the biggest ring matched to the smallest cog, and I'd like to go even faster.

  8. #8
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickDes View Post
    Larger chainrings will mean I need a longer chain.
    Do you know you need a longer chain? How was the chain you have now sized? If it was sized using the big-big method it'll be too short. But if it was sized using the small-small method it will likely still be useable.

  9. #9
    pmf
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Do you know you need a longer chain? How was the chain you have now sized? If it was sized using the big-big method it'll be too short. But if it was sized using the small-small method it will likely still be useable.
    This is probably right. An extra three teeth on the chainring isn't a huge difference.

    I personally like Shimano chains, but I hate the dumbass pins they use. I usually toss the pin and use a reusable link.

  10. #10
    It's all bollocks
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    Not sure how the chain was measured, as I didn't build up the bike from scratch like I do most of my other bikes. I typically use the big-big-plus-extra-link method. That's why I figured three extra teeth would likely require a longer chain.

  11. #11
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    I'm not trying to be Captain Obvious here but it the chain is too short you'll have to replace it.

    What cassette is on there now?

  12. #12
    It's all bollocks
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    It's an Ultegra 11-28 cassette.

  13. #13
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    I like the KMC X10 or X10L. Even if you go with a Shimano chain you can use a KMC quick link so that you can take the chain off and clean it without using a chain breaker.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickDes View Post
    Fair point. I have spun out on some occasions going downhill. I guess what I'm suggesting is frequently I'm in the biggest ring matched to the smallest cog, and I'd like to go even faster.
    What was your cadence? I'm doubting you were spun out. Until you spin out the gears you have, there's no point in getting bigger gears. And if you are spinning out what you have then you need to try out for a professional race team (assuming you have a 50/12 or 50/11 now - that's 32.3 or 35.2 mph respectively at 100 rpm). It's probably more a matter of learning how to ride at a decent cadence - a skill all riders should have.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickDes View Post
    I guess what I'm suggesting is frequently I'm in the biggest ring matched to the smallest cog, and I'd like to go even faster.
    Frequently? What's your cadence on those "frequent" occasions? Are you an international top pro?

  16. #16
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    Actually according to a test I saw once about several different chains, Ultegra did quite well against other chains except for one, the Wippermann ConneX chain. However, the Shimano chain cost around $35 dollars while the Wippemann was $75 yet even though the Wipperman was stainless steel and lasted longer in the long run the Shimano was cheaper to use. And some lightweight chains like the $80 SRAM had a tendency to break more often. Personally if a $80 chain is only going to last a third longer I would just buy the $35 chain, and the that $35 chain being a tad heavier won't break as often if ever before wear out.

    And you do have to make sure the chain is compatible with your driveline of course.

  17. #17
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    he's saying he spins out often going .....downhill.

    you guys don't go faster than ~32mph down hills? do you aero tuck at 30?

    Now if he said he was spinning that out in the flats, then call him out.

  18. #18
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    Cheers. I've hit 45mph on some descents (I should probably cool it with that). Anyway, it sounds like I ought to keep with the Ultegra chain. And if not that, the KMC alternative.

  19. #19
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    I've had good luck with KMC chains in 8 speed and 10 speed.

  20. #20
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    Re: Stick with Ultegra chain, or seek alternatives?

    Quote Originally Posted by gearloose View Post
    I've had good luck with KMC chains in 8 speed and 10 speed.
    +1 on KMC. Good shifting on Campy, Shimano, and SRAM cassettes.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmr2_man View Post
    he's saying he spins out often going .....downhill.

    you guys don't go faster than ~32mph down hills? do you aero tuck at 30?

    Now if he said he was spinning that out in the flats, then call him out.
    I know this debate has been done. In the past I called out people who claim to spin out their compact cranks. After all, I don't spin out mine.

    So I agree with the poster who said that a rider should work on spinning. I think riders should be able to spin at 110-120rpm for hours comfortably.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pirx View Post
    Frequently? What's your cadence on those "frequent" occasions? Are you an international top pro?
    But as they say, different strokes for different folks. If a guy feels like he needs a standard crank, so be it. If he feels like a standard will be faster I'm not going to try to change his mind.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Local Hero View Post

    So I agree with the poster who said that a rider should work on spinning. I think riders should be able to spin at 110-120rpm for hours comfortably. But as they say, different strokes for different folks. If a guy feels like he needs a standard crank, so be it. If he feels like a standard will be faster I'm not going to try to change his mind.
    Not even all the pros spin that fast, different people have different comfort levels. In fact speed hasn't increased much at all since the 70's when everyone rode heavier bikes, non aero bikes, and lugged along at 60 to 70 rpm. No, not everyone should be doing 110 to 120 comfortable, they need to do what is comfortable for them and not for you.

  23. #23
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by froze View Post
    In fact speed hasn't increased much at all since the 70's when everyone rode heavier bikes, non aero bikes, and lugged along at 60 to 70 rpm.
    I think a lot of people are surprised about this. In the 1960's the Tour deFrance average distance was 2696mi and ave speed was 22mph. In the 2000's average distance was 2178mi and speed was 25mph.
    With all the modern technology, training, suppliments, epo, the ave speed is 3mph faster. But the race is also 500mi shorter.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I think a lot of people are surprised about this. In the 1960's the Tour deFrance average distance was 2696mi and ave speed was 22mph. In the 2000's average distance was 2178mi and speed was 25mph.
    With all the modern technology, training, suppliments, epo, the ave speed is 3mph faster. But the race is also 500mi shorter.
    Not only is the race 500 miles shorter but the climbs have not been as steep either, and or not as many steep climbs.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I think a lot of people are surprised about this. In the 1960's the Tour deFrance average distance was 2696mi and ave speed was 22mph. In the 2000's average distance was 2178mi and speed was 25mph.
    With all the modern technology, training, suppliments, epo, the ave speed is 3mph faster. But the race is also 500mi shorter.
    Yep. If you factor in the equipment improvement, training, and all the sciences involved in optimizing diet and pedalling technique,.. AND the radios for strategizing... AND power meters to pace their energy expenditure... all these factors are conceivably account for at least a 2 mph improvement right there. But I still think today's riders (as a group) are a bit (but barely) faster than those of the 60s, simply because today's pros train harder and the field are now more competitive with more riders from other places like South America and Africa.

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