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  1. #1
    jta
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    Sticky link at connecting pin on new chain install

    Just installed a new Shimano 10-speed chain according to manufacturer's instructions. The link at the connecting pin is slightly sticky after inserting the pin flush with the outer side of the chain. I wiggled it side-to-side and vertically as well as added a bit of lube. When that didn't work, I used the chain tool and gave it another 1/8 turn for good measure. The pin seems seated correctly.

    Any suggestions on how to alleviate? I can see that the link doesn't entirely straighten out between the bottom jockey wheel and chainring it's got a slight hitch in it. Should this even be a concern as the shifting seems to be fine up and down the range on chainrings and cogs?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jta View Post
    Just installed a new Shimano 10-speed chain according to manufacturer's instructions. The link at the connecting pin is slightly sticky after inserting the pin flush with the outer side of the chain. I wiggled it side-to-side and vertically as well as added a bit of lube. When that didn't work, I used the chain tool and gave it another 1/8 turn for good measure. The pin seems seated correctly.

    Any suggestions on how to alleviate? I can see that the link doesn't entirely straighten out between the bottom jockey wheel and chainring it's got a slight hitch in it. Should this even be a concern as the shifting seems to be fine up and down the range on chainrings and cogs?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    Assuming you have the proper type of chain tool, you need to push the pin back so that it shows the same amount on both sides of the chain as all the other links do. It is very typical to have to do this after installing the chain: you push the new pin into place and then push it back on one side to provide enough room for the link to flex easily.

  3. #3
    jta
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    Thanks Kerry. The chain tool is compatible with 10/11-speed chains. I backed the pin out a bit and then back in by necessity since it made the link more sticky. Good suggestion regardless as it eliminated improper seating as a possible cause (at least as far as I can tell) and good to know that you can make micro-adjustments after you break off the pin guide.

    I put a drop of lube on each side of the link and let it sit overnight and that seemed to help quite a bit. The link seems to be moving freely. It has an iota of stickiness left, but I assume that it will work itself out after a few hundred miles. Never experienced this, but I've only installed a handful of chains so wasn't sure what I was dealing with. Pretty sure this is a non-issue now. I'll check the chain to make sure it's okay after a few rides.

    Thanks again. 60 here in Brooklyn. Time to ride.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Assuming you have the proper type of chain tool, you need to push the pin back so that it shows the same amount on both sides of the chain as all the other links do. It is very typical to have to do this after installing the chain: you push the new pin into place and then push it back on one side to provide enough room for the link to flex easily.
    That's incorrect, and impossible, with shimano pins. The front side is the side that needs to be even with the others and the back side (the side you break the pin off from) will stick a little further out than the others. By front and back I mean facing away from the bike and facing in towards the bike.

    You probably know this, op, but shimano chains are uni-directional and there is a right and wrong direction to insert the pin......that's why we can say front and back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    That's incorrect, and impossible, with shimano pins. The front side is the side that needs to be even with the others and the back side (the side you break the pin off from) will stick a little further out than the others. By front and back I mean facing away from the bike and facing in towards the bike.

    You probably know this, op, but shimano chains are uni-directional and there is a right and wrong direction to insert the pin......that's why we can say front and back.
    Kerry is correct. I would have thought this is bike maint 101. Regardless of chain or style of pin, when driving a pin in, the rear chain plate is resting on the chain tool anvil. The result is the two outer plates are squished together, and then held in place by the pin, resulting in the link being too stiff. It is normal to have to drive the pin back just a little titch, with the chain in the other chain tool position (so the front plate is not resting on the anvil), which forces the plates apart and thus makes the link move freely. When driving the pin back, you only need to do so just a slight turn, and certainly not enough to move the pin in the front plate.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by RHankey View Post
    Kerry is correct. I would have thought this is bike maint 101. Regardless of chain or style of pin, when driving a pin in, the rear chain plate is resting on the chain tool anvil. The result is the two outer plates are squished together, and then held in place by the pin, resulting in the link being too stiff. It is normal to have to drive the pin back just a little titch, with the chain in the other chain tool position (so the front plate is not resting on the anvil), which forces the plates apart and thus makes the link move freely. When driving the pin back, you only need to do so just a slight turn, and certainly not enough to move the pin in the front plate.
    maybe I misunderstood what he said and I wasn't disputing the part about nudging the pin back or forth to get it just right but otherwise, I guess the OP can decide for himself if you guys know more about Shimano chain pins than Shimano does.

    http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830688497.pdf

    Make sure that the connecting pin is
    aligned with the outer link surface from the
    side that the pin is inserted. It should feel
    smooth and flush when you run your finger
    over it. The pin will protrude slightly on the
    backside after the break off pin is removed
    Last edited by Jay Strongbow; 02-26-2017 at 07:44 AM.

  7. #7
    jta
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    I find Jay is correct specifically for Shimano chains, but Kerry's general advice was definitely helpful and good to know for future installs.

    For Shimano, the front of the pin should be flush to the plate, with the back slightly protruding. The CN-7901 should also be installed with a specific side facing outward. Lastly, the chain should be installed with the connecting pin on "the outer link on the front side in the direction of travel".

    That's what threw me a bit: I followed the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Never had to back a pin out to allow it to move freely they've always worked perfectly when I set the pin flush to the outer plate. Anyway, took the bike out for a short ride and the chain works fine the link straightens out between front and back mechs now.

    thanks for the advice, all.

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