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  1. #1
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    Trouble shifting into smallest cog on 105 -5700

    Hi

    I have a 105 5700 groupset and I'm having trouble with the tuning.

    If I tune it in a way that the bike will shift well into the smallest cog then the middle cogs click annoyingly when riding.

    If I tune to get rid of the clicking, then I can't smoothly shift into the bottom ring! I've yet to find a happy medium.

    I've played with the 1 mm spacer that came with the cassette but it doesn't make any difference on or off the hub. The derailluer and the derailleur part of the frame appear to be straight.

    Any advice? I hardly use the little cog but it drives me nuts that it doesn't work properly.

  2. #2
    Not a rocket surgeon.
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    Sounds like a bent hanger. Have it checked. Not eyeballed, checked.

  3. #3
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    what tihsepa said. and set the derailleur up from the beginning once the hanger is aligned properly. cable undone from the anchor bolt, check limit screws, then attach cable and adjust indexing.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    what tihsepa said. and set the derailleur up from the beginning once the hanger is aligned properly. cable undone from the anchor bolt, check limit screws, then attach cable and adjust indexing.
    Thanks for the help.

    My bike is in the shop at the moment for wheel truing, I'll have them check the hanger and get back to you. I have a feeling you might be right because I've tired every conceivable thing except that so far, hard to tell without the right tools.

    Thanks again, you guys rock!

  5. #5
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    Sorry for the late reply. I had my mechanic check out the possible hanger issue. He assured me it's straight and fine. I bought a new hanger anyway, why not they're inexpensive and for the first time ever, had a mechanic tune my gears.

    I rode the bike home, everything seemed to be shifting ok. I went on a 50 km ride yesterday, and the clicking is back! gave the derailleur a little turn to get rid of the clicking but now I'm back to square one, not being able to hit that 11 tooth cog smoothly, it just chatters for a long while then sometimes kicks down fully, sometimes keeps chattering.

    Annoyed. Any other thoughts?

  6. #6
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    Old cable housings?

  7. #7
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    I doubt it's the cable housing. It's only a year old but who knows. It might be worth spending $10 on new cable just to rule it out.

  8. #8
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    This sounds similar to the issue I had when I switched to 5700. In my case, I could tune the gears so that they were perfect when shifting across the cassette in one direction, but the middle sprockets would click when shifting in the other direction. The asymmetry indicated that it was due to friction, so I changed the cables to the newer Shimano ones with the teflon coating (the cables that came with the STI levers were the older style uncoated ones), and that fixed it.

    This seems to be a fairly common problem since Shimano changed to under-the-tape cable routing.

  9. #9
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    how old, how many miles on the chain? i have had a similar problem and the last thing i suspected was a worn chain. sure enough i compared it to a new one and the old one was stretched or worn out. new chain fixed this problem for me.

  10. #10
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    I'm just guessing that there is just enough drag on the cable that the rear derailleur can't fully release itself to get to the 11t perfectly despite having the limit set correctly.

  11. #11
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staylucky View Post
    I doubt it's the cable housing. It's only a year old but who knows. It might be worth spending $10 on new cable just to rule it out.
    a new cable won't change anything. you need to change the component that wears...the housing. the housing has a slick plastic lining that is (obviously) much softer than a steel cable. the cable will grind into the liner and this creates more friction than the derailleur can deal with. unless the cable is a month or 2 old, you should ALWAYS change both the cable and the housing. this should be done yearly at minimum.
    there is one other thing that can keep a shimano derailleur from moving down to the smallest cog. the cable anchor 'washer' that the cable runs under has 2 'tabs' that need to be in the proper position or one of them will keep the body of the derailleur from moving as far as it needs to.
    your problem sounds more like old/worn/dirty housing.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  12. #12
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    The chain has about 400 km on it, just replaced it last month. Both new and old chain acted the same way. It's a Shimano Ultegra Chain, which might be the issue as well though the mechanic said it shouldn't make a difference. I'll see if replacing the housing and cables makes a difference.

  13. #13
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    is it possible the the gear cable is not proper seated in the shifter? sometimes if the little knob on the end is not all the way in the slot, you can get erratic shifting.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eflayer2 View Post
    is it possible the the gear cable is not proper seated in the shifter? sometimes if the little knob on the end is not all the way in the slot, you can get erratic shifting.
    FIXED!!

    took the advice of others on this form. Was about to replace the housing when I noticed the cable was not sitting in the right spot in the derailleur, slightly off and the cable was a little too tight.

    Made the slight adjustment and its shifting very well now onto the 11 tooth cog. Very strange how a 1mm adjustment changes everything and I couldn't see this on my own without trouble shooting with fellow cyclists.

    Thank you for all the help!

  15. #15
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staylucky View Post
    Very strange how a 1mm adjustment changes everything and I couldn't see this on my own without trouble shooting with fellow cyclists.
    Not strange at all. One click on your shifter moves the cable ~2mm. So if it's off 1mm, that puts your chain between two cogs.

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