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  1. #1
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    Wobbly Rear Wheel

    I can tell when the rear wheel is wobbly as my bike no longer shifts correctly. The fix is to tighten the rear wheel hub (I hope I'm using the correct part term).

    I don't know why the hub keeps coming loose enough to cause wheel wobble.

    Another problem. If I tighten the hub enough the wobbling stops, but then the wheel doesn't freely spin. Loosen the hub enough for the wheel to freely spin and the wobbling returns.

    How to resolve these problems?

    Thanks.32

  2. #2
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    How old is the wheel?

    Might need some new bearings put into it.

    They get wobbly when they get worn out.
    use a torque wrench

  3. #3
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    Rear wheel was replaced not 2 years ago as the prior one somehow broke. Work done at LBS.

    Instructions or link to replace the bearings?

    Thanks.

  4. #4
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    It depends on the wheel, they're all a little different.

    Could just need to adjust the preload setting for the bearings.

    What type of wheel?
    use a torque wrench

  5. #5
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    Wheel spoke goes thru the label on the wheel.

    LP?B
    Aluminum alloy double wall 522x14

  6. #6
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    the question is, what kind of hub?

    The rim doesn't matter, duh. Take it to a LBS.
    Last edited by duriel; 05-19-2017 at 12:42 PM.
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  8. #8
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    That attachment is invalid
    I'm having this wobbly rear wheel trouble with two shimano standard rear derailleur hubs, one 6 speed, one 7 speed.
    compatible takeups are labled "SIS". I've bent/broken 3 takeups on road trash.
    The 6 speed I broke the axle, bought a replacement from the bike shop. Then it unscrews itself on the right side & drops the balls. Also wobbles.
    The 7 speed just unscrewed itself and dropped some balls without any trauma. Also wobbles.Both were properly lubricated.
    I took two days Mem Day weekend making & destroying 15 mm thin wrenches before I got the left side nut-bearing race separated. Hint- use a carbide rotary grinder bit to cut a wider flat, files won't work on this hard metal. Use a normal open end wrench, then. Furthermore, I think they glued the race to the shaft, I couldn't get the nut & race to unlock until I heated both with a torch. Still took a 26" channellock plier on the wrenches to get enough torque to separate them.
    The design on the 6 speed was stupid, the axle was .310" thick in the middle, obviously too weak for even a 170 lb man. The design on the 7 speed is thicker, .372" dia, but the right side is stupid. a race in the middle of the axle, a ferrule, a nut out on the right where you can get to it, right hand thread both sides. Sturmey Archer figured this out in 1966, they had left hand thread on one side.
    So I've had it with shimano SIS, ordered a Sturmey Archer S80 Internal gear hub this AM with 13/32" axle diameter (I hope all the way through) but meanwhile I've got errands to run. I bought some thin 3/8"x 26TPI lock nuts on the same order, to double nut the right hand side, which could possibly lock it in place, but they won't be here until next week.
    Obvious solution is buy another trashy bike and throw this one away, but I ride 20 miles out from cell phone service (except $70 a month Verizon) and wrecker rides from out there are $75 if they can find you (no road name signs). Carrying a bike back 20 miles is a P***. Carried it home 3 miles yesterday after my failed test ride.
    Will try repairing Shimano SIS 7-speed again today with glueing the right side race in place with locktight. Will have to disassemble another rusty bike to get balls, the new ones won't be here for a week. .250" diameter for anybody that wants to buy some. no, the balls aren't undersized. No the races aren't worn, I'm a former factory mechanic and think I can spot that pattern well enough.
    Ultimate reliability would be walking everywhere, but it is a 7 hour walk + bus ride to my country property, and the weeds are calling me. **** shimano, the 15 speed from 1986 was a reliable hub and takeup. Real steel back then maybe. Wore the teeth off 3rd gear on that one. That wheel is getting the Sturmey Archer S-80 hub, which also has coaster brake.

  9. #9
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    does the op know know the concept behind a perfectly adjusted hub?

    you ensure the two cones are in perfect position on the axle, and you firmly tighten each one to its locknut to secure it in that position. you need two wrenches to tighten a cone to its locknut. usually, two cone wrenches, but you can often get by with one cone wrench and an adjustable wrench (or similar). park cone wrenches are under $5 on ebay.

    sheldon brown has all the info. also see the parktools and youtube.
    Last edited by blackfrancois; 05-30-2017 at 08:22 PM.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by indianajo View Post
    That attachment is invalid
    I'm having this wobbly rear wheel trouble with two shimano standard rear derailleur hubs, one 6 speed, one 7 speed.
    compatible takeups are labled "SIS". I've bent/broken 3 takeups on road trash.
    The 6 speed I broke the axle, bought a replacement from the bike shop. Then it unscrews itself on the right side & drops the balls. Also wobbles.
    The 7 speed just unscrewed itself and dropped some balls without any trauma. Also wobbles.Both were properly lubricated.
    I took two days Mem Day weekend making & destroying 15 mm thin wrenches before I got the left side nut-bearing race separated. Hint- use a carbide rotary grinder bit to cut a wider flat, files won't work on this hard metal. Use a normal open end wrench, then. Furthermore, I think they glued the race to the shaft, I couldn't get the nut & race to unlock until I heated both with a torch. Still took a 26" channellock plier on the wrenches to get enough torque to separate them.
    The design on the 6 speed was stupid, the axle was .310" thick in the middle, obviously too weak for even a 170 lb man. The design on the 7 speed is thicker, .372" dia, but the right side is stupid. a race in the middle of the axle, a ferrule, a nut out on the right where you can get to it, right hand thread both sides. Sturmey Archer figured this out in 1966, they had left hand thread on one side.
    So I've had it with shimano SIS, ordered a Sturmey Archer S80 Internal gear hub this AM with 13/32" axle diameter (I hope all the way through) but meanwhile I've got errands to run. I bought some thin 3/8"x 26TPI lock nuts on the same order, to double nut the right hand side, which could possibly lock it in place, but they won't be here until next week.
    Obvious solution is buy another trashy bike and throw this one away, but I ride 20 miles out from cell phone service (except $70 a month Verizon) and wrecker rides from out there are $75 if they can find you (no road name signs). Carrying a bike back 20 miles is a P***. Carried it home 3 miles yesterday after my failed test ride.
    Will try repairing Shimano SIS 7-speed again today with glueing the right side race in place with locktight. Will have to disassemble another rusty bike to get balls, the new ones won't be here for a week. .250" diameter for anybody that wants to buy some. no, the balls aren't undersized. No the races aren't worn, I'm a former factory mechanic and think I can spot that pattern well enough.
    Ultimate reliability would be walking everywhere, but it is a 7 hour walk + bus ride to my country property, and the weeds are calling me. **** shimano, the 15 speed from 1986 was a reliable hub and takeup. Real steel back then maybe. Wore the teeth off 3rd gear on that one. That wheel is getting the Sturmey Archer S-80 hub, which also has coaster brake.
    What factory?

    Your neighbors have no need for a television, that's for sure.
    Too old to ride plastic

  11. #11
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    I used to have a SIS 6-speed freewheel setup many years ago. I used to go through axles every several months. When I upgraded the bike to a seven speed cassette, the problem went away. I never once had my hubs cones come loose, let anlone loose enough for the bearings to fall out. Even if the adjustment were to come apart, there should be a dust cover to hold the bearings. Somewhere along the line you are not getting that hub properly built or adjusted. You are missing some part or have some incompatible part or some essential step of adjustment and locking the cones in place. That stuff wasn't perfect but it was darn good and it should work well even today. Good luck getting it sorted.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by indianajo View Post
    That attachment is invalid
    I'm having this wobbly rear wheel trouble with two shimano standard rear derailleur hubs, one 6 speed, one 7 speed.
    compatible takeups are labled "SIS". I've bent/broken 3 takeups on road trash.
    The 6 speed I broke the axle, bought a replacement from the bike shop. Then it unscrews itself on the right side & drops the balls. Also wobbles.
    The 7 speed just unscrewed itself and dropped some balls without any trauma. Also wobbles.Both were properly lubricated.
    I took two days Mem Day weekend making & destroying 15 mm thin wrenches before I got the left side nut-bearing race separated. Hint- use a carbide rotary grinder bit to cut a wider flat, files won't work on this hard metal. Use a normal open end wrench, then. Furthermore, I think they glued the race to the shaft, I couldn't get the nut & race to unlock until I heated both with a torch. Still took a 26" channellock plier on the wrenches to get enough torque to separate them.
    The design on the 6 speed was stupid, the axle was .310" thick in the middle, obviously too weak for even a 170 lb man. The design on the 7 speed is thicker, .372" dia, but the right side is stupid. a race in the middle of the axle, a ferrule, a nut out on the right where you can get to it, right hand thread both sides. Sturmey Archer figured this out in 1966, they had left hand thread on one side.
    So I've had it with shimano SIS, ordered a Sturmey Archer S80 Internal gear hub this AM with 13/32" axle diameter (I hope all the way through) but meanwhile I've got errands to run. I bought some thin 3/8"x 26TPI lock nuts on the same order, to double nut the right hand side, which could possibly lock it in place, but they won't be here until next week.
    Obvious solution is buy another trashy bike and throw this one away, but I ride 20 miles out from cell phone service (except $70 a month Verizon) and wrecker rides from out there are $75 if they can find you (no road name signs). Carrying a bike back 20 miles is a P***. Carried it home 3 miles yesterday after my failed test ride.
    Will try repairing Shimano SIS 7-speed again today with glueing the right side race in place with locktight. Will have to disassemble another rusty bike to get balls, the new ones won't be here for a week. .250" diameter for anybody that wants to buy some. no, the balls aren't undersized. No the races aren't worn, I'm a former factory mechanic and think I can spot that pattern well enough.
    Ultimate reliability would be walking everywhere, but it is a 7 hour walk + bus ride to my country property, and the weeds are calling me. **** shimano, the 15 speed from 1986 was a reliable hub and takeup. Real steel back then maybe. Wore the teeth off 3rd gear on that one. That wheel is getting the Sturmey Archer S-80 hub, which also has coaster brake.

    tl;dr......

  13. #13
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    Flagged down a scrap trucker yesterday, picked up a 7 spd SIS for $10. This one, also a Pacific, had a rubber dust shield on the non-gear side. Maybe factory built/glued? Neither the Pacific Quantum 7 spd SIS or the Diamond Outlook 6 spd SIS had such a cover. This one has rusty gears but probably 2 miles max, like most kid bikes. Rolls smoothly. Didn't disassemble to lube it, just let 5W oil drip in from gear side for an hour. Meanwhile, I ordered the Sturmey Archer S80 8 speed IG hub 11 AM Tue, all parts were "in stock", by 7 pm Thurs no shipper e-mail yet. Hope the spoke calculator got it right, those internet spokes are $49 a hundred, or custom cut/threaded ones are $3 each at local bike shop for $108 a wheel.

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