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  1. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    So I am wondering if the slight inverse arc is meant improve stiffness or an error when the mold was made?
    That would be a big error...how would you get the curve wrong yet the the placement of the post mount and the rake correct? It does look different but rides fine.

  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by gospastic View Post
    That would be a big error...how would you get the curve wrong yet the the placement of the post mount and the rake correct? It does look different but rides fine.
    A rebellious Chinese stylist went to town on it... maybe?

  3. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by a.dallaserra View Post
    Here's some close ups of both the BB7 and the TRP HyRds - the 160mm rotors I had 100% would not fit. I threw in some decal work I did too... (The TRPs are 300% better than the BB7s IMO)
    Nice build. And it looks like you got the right discs on it
    How do you like it?
    I have the Hy/Rd's on my Ridley...after trying the Hayes, BB7's and Spyres. I wouldn't say 300% better....but they are better.

  4. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    I have the Hy/Rd's on my Ridley...after trying the Hayes, BB7's and Spyres. I wouldn't say 300% better....but they are better.
    I just swapped the Shimano CX75's for TRP Spyre SLC's on my Raleigh RXC and I definitely like the setup and feel at the lever but I think the 'braking' feel really depends on the rotors. I have several sets of stock Avid rotors that came with the BB7's which are still in the box and Ashima Air rotors and the nearly 20-gram ligher Ai2 rotors as well as a couple sets of Hope floating rotors (all rotors 160mm) mounted on wheelsets. While I have not yet gotten in more than a couple trips around the block on the TRPs, I find the Ashima Ai2 rotors (62-65 grams) are very grabby and solid braking with the stock TRP pads (Shimano organic?). The Hope floating rotors are also nice but the rivets for the interface are problematic with some calipers and I have not tried them with the TRPs but they worked well with the CX75s with stock organic pads but the CX75 required more tinkering during setup to get as good lever feel compared to the TRPs. Kind of a drift but I am also curious to try the Shimano XT 'Ice Tech' rotors as I have read good things about them and while heavier than the Ai2s, they do look really cool.
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  5. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    I just swapped the Shimano CX75's for TRP Spyre SLC's on my Raleigh RXC and I definitely like the setup and feel at the lever but I think the 'braking' feel really depends on the rotors. I have several sets of stock Avid rotors that came with the BB7's which are still in the box and Ashima Air rotors and the nearly 20-gram ligher Ai2 rotors as well as a couple sets of Hope floating rotors (all rotors 160mm) mounted on wheelsets. While I have not yet gotten in more than a couple trips around the block on the TRPs, I find the Ashima Ai2 rotors (62-65 grams) are very grabby and solid braking with the stock TRP pads (Shimano organic?). The Hope floating rotors are also nice but the rivets for the interface are problematic with some calipers and I have not tried them with the TRPs but they worked well with the CX75s with stock organic pads but the CX75 required more tinkering during setup to get as good lever feel compared to the TRPs. Kind of a drift but I am also curious to try the Shimano XT 'Ice Tech' rotors as I have read good things about them and while heavier than the Ai2s, they do look really cool.
    Yes...different rotors can grab differently.
    After playing with different rotors
    I run the Airotors on all my wheels so I have a consistant feel.

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Nice build. And it looks like you got the right discs on it
    How do you like it?
    I have the Hy/Rd's on my Ridley...after trying the Hayes, BB7's and Spyres. I wouldn't say 300% better....but they are better.
    Nice! Yeah I love the HyRds - the rotors I have are 140mm 62g aligators, after my 160mm Ai2 ashimas did not fit (But I have those on my single speed with the BB7s now). The reason I say 300%, a bit much I agree, is because of the self centering aspect to the hydraulic pads. They don't just push one pad against the rotor and then in turn push the rotor into the static pad. The fluid balances the pads around the rotor and that's what give the smooth modulation in the lever, not so much the rotor.

    Anyway, both are lovely but for sure the HyRd in my opinion is worth the extra weight as it gives a true upgrade from good rim brakes (which the BB7s fail to out-do to the expected degree). But I am very pro discs on road & cyclocross frames, so I give thumbs up to any disc setup - only I was particularly impressed by the HyRd when properly set up (very little play in my levers and no rotor rub).

  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    It looks to me like the following:
    *Front D has internal routing but the housing stops at the frame and the cable runs inside those white tubes to the D.
    *Rear D has internal routing and is handled the same as the Front.
    *Rear Brake I believe is run the same way.
    *It looks like you may have the option of running full length housing for everything if you remove the bolt and carbon guide...maybe....
    *It looks you can run full length housing for the rear brake which is the white tube on the bottom in that picture by removing that tube and running the housing the entire way. And could run that one only as full housing.
    *It is probably exposed so you can run full housing or if you screwed up and pulled one of those white tubes out you would basically be forever screwed trying to re-fish them around under the bottom bracket again.

    Let me know if you're running into any trouble on this - my FR320 has the exact same setup under the BB. The brake cable housing must (MUST!!!) run all the way. And yes, as mentioned before, you'll need a little extra housing for that compared to what regular kits provide (but the cable length provided is fine to reach all the way).

    The reason for this full cable housing routing is simply in response to the advance of hydraulic shifters which are starting to crop up. You evidently need full length housing for hydros...

    But seeing as the only available full hydro set-up worth much at the moment is the latest SRAM Red Hydro, available at the cost of a small island, it is a tad frustrating squeezing that cable housing through there. I had to dremmel the BB section a little to avoid pinching the cable housing and snagging the cable a bit as a result. It took a couple of attempts to free up the cable fully.

  8. #258
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    Has anyone built up an fm089? I see it listed with hongfu and I also see where yeoleo is selling it (or a frame that looks near identical), but I can't find any info online where someone has built one up.
    Disc Brake Carbon Cyclocross Frameset - Cyclo-Cross Carbon Frame - YouTube


    NEW!!! Hongfu carbon cyclocross frame 2012 disc brake FM089, View cyclocross frame, OEM Product Details from Shenzhen Hongfu Sports Goods Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

  9. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZachUA View Post
    Has anyone built up an fm089?
    Someone posted in the this thread about 4-5 months back about his FM089. From my point of view, looks a lot like the 2012/13 Ridley X-Fire disc but also somewhat reminiscent of the Dengfu FM059 albeit with some improvements to include taller head tube, brake and shift cable run internally in the top tube, and rear brake and derailleur guides run underneath the seat stays with an additional attach point than my FM059.
    Last edited by ms6073; 09-16-2013 at 01:17 PM.
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  10. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Looks like a more refined version of my Dengfu FM059 with shift and brake internal cable runs in the top tube and the rear brake and derailleur guides run underneath the seat stays and an additional attach point than our FM059.
    Yeah, it looks like it has a much fatter and/or square shaped downtube.

  11. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by ms6073 View Post
    Someone posted in the this thread about 4-5 months back about his FM089. From my point of view, I think it looks like a more refined version of my Dengfu FM059 albeit with a taller head tube, brake and shift cable run internally in the top tube and the rear brake and derailleur guides run underneath the seat stays with an additional attach point than my FM059.
    Hmm, pics not showing up for me.

  12. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZachUA View Post
    Hmm, pics not showing up for me.
    Google is your friend - search Google Images for FM089.

    Attachment 286772
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  13. #263
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    My Miracle Bikes MC105 in size 58. Built up with Force, Rival, Ultegra, Fsa, Deda, and Ritchey parts. Weighs 16.5 with the Boyd wheels. Working great so far. I need to cut the steerer once more though.


  14. #264
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    That's a good looking bike Andy !
    Indy Fab Deluxe 29
    Ti O'Beast Fatbike
    Niner One9 SS
    Dirty Disco CX

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by petepeterson View Post
    Really nice build here.

    What model is your frame from ICAN? The link you originally posted is broken. It looks like a SP-AC024 to me but do you mind clarifying for us? I am building up a cross rig for racing and training this winter and love the lines on your frame.

    Cheers
    Yep, sp-ac024, but I ordered it with no cable guides except on the fork. Carbon CX frameset AC024 DISC frame, View DISC frame, OEM Product Details from Shenzhen Ican Sports Equipment Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

  16. #266
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    for some reason i keep getting thread update emails that quote someone's post saying that the dirty disco is on sale for 550.00 - but when I look at the thread I don't see that post (except someone near the beginning posted it). From what I can tell it is not on sale for 550.00, unless I'm looking at the wrong site (planet-x).

  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZachUA View Post
    for some reason i keep getting thread update emails that quote someone's post saying that the dirty disco is on sale for 550.00 - but when I look at the thread I don't see that post (except someone near the beginning posted it). From what I can tell it is not on sale for 550.00, unless I'm looking at the wrong site (planet-x).
    It might be getting flagged and removed as spam... I see it for 799 and only in 52cm...

  18. #268
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    FR602 in commuter mode

    Here's my FR602 (53cm matte) in commuter mode.

    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-dscf8002_aperture.jpg

    Less than 19 pounds with the fenders on.

    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-dscf8003_aperture.jpg

    Super lightweight (and super cheap) J&L ebay clamp. Less than 10 grams. Less than $10. Had to turn it backwards to get it to hold the seatpost better.

    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-dscf8010_aperture.jpg
    Seatstay fender mount. Also demonstrating my hack job at keeping the SKS Longboard 45 fenders in one piece. They keep breaking in half. They've broken in three places within a few months of ownership (thought not on this bike). I keep epoxying and bolting them back together. The Planet Bike fenders I owned before these were a lot more durable.

    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-dscf8021_aperture.jpg
    TRP Spyre brakes. Yes, my chain could use some cleaning. Ashima Ai2 rotor. The Ashima rotors are a lot lighter than the stock rotors, but they don't seem as powerful. I've only had them for a couple of days, though. They might need some more bedding in.

    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-dscf8022_aperture.jpg
    I'm not happy how the bolts that attach the housing guides are already rusting. I wonder if I can get these bolts in aluminum. You also can see how the fork/frame gap is a bit big - I couldn't get the headset lockring all the way down.....

    I've got a CX race this weekend, so I'll try and get another set of photos in race mode.

  19. #269
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    I also got some Ai2s. They also don't feel as powerful as the stock ones for me. They are also seem really easy to knock out of true. I guess that's what you sacrifice for 66g rotors.

    I've put some more miles on mine and am overall pleased with the frame still. In a cross setting the steering does feel a tad slow but that could also be because I am using a 110mm stem vs 100mm on all my other bikes.

  20. #270
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    Dude! Thank you for posting these. Bike looks great. Where did you buy it from? Could you post a build list?

  21. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by gospastic View Post
    I've put some more miles on mine and am overall pleased with the frame still. In a cross setting the steering does feel a tad slow but that could also be because I am using a 110mm stem vs 100mm on all my other bikes.
    Would it be possible to use a different fork, maybe one with a different rake, to achieve a faster steering?

  22. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZachUA View Post
    Dude! Thank you for posting these. Bike looks great. Where did you buy it from? Could you post a build list?
    I bought it from Shenzhen Flyxii Sports Equipment Co., Limited on AliExpress. Took less than a week to get it in my hands. 53cm FR602 frame set, matte finish, GXP bottom bracket

    BikeHubStore MTB162/252 hubs, 64 Sapim Laser spokes, brass nipples, H Plus Son Archetype Rims (black), Gatorskin 25c folding tires
    SRAM Rival shifters and rear derailleur
    SRAM Force GXP crank and front derailleur
    KMC X10SL chain, FSA 36/46 chainrings, SRAM PG-1070 11-28 cassette
    Look Quartz Pedals
    Ritchey Biomax 42cm Handlebars (Deda tape), Ritchey 110mm stem, Ritchey WCS carbon seatpost, J&L clamp, very old Nashbar Race saddle
    TRP Spyre Brakes 160/160, Ashima Ai2 rotors
    Jagwire housing and cables

    I like it a lot - except the steering is too sluggish. I have no idea why they made it with such a slack (70.5 degree) headtube angle. Most CX bikes are 71.5-72 degrees. I have to give a lot more "input" to get the bike to turn. It's a lot more of a carver. Given the slack headtube and generous tire clearance, it may be better suited as a gravel racer than a cx racer.

  23. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmcgoy View Post
    I bought it from Shenzhen Flyxii Sports Equipment Co., Limited on AliExpress. Took less than a week to get it in my hands. 53cm FR602 frame set, matte finish, GXP bottom bracket

    BikeHubStore MTB162/252 hubs, 64 Sapim Laser spokes, brass nipples, H Plus Son Archetype Rims (black), Gatorskin 25c folding tires
    SRAM Rival shifters and rear derailleur
    SRAM Force GXP crank and front derailleur
    KMC X10SL chain, FSA 36/46 chainrings, SRAM PG-1070 11-28 cassette
    Look Quartz Pedals
    Ritchey Biomax 42cm Handlebars (Deda tape), Ritchey 110mm stem, Ritchey WCS carbon seatpost, J&L clamp, very old Nashbar Race saddle
    TRP Spyre Brakes 160/160, Ashima Ai2 rotors
    Jagwire housing and cables

    I like it a lot - except the steering is too sluggish. I have no idea why they made it with such a slack (70.5 degree) headtube angle. Most CX bikes are 71.5-72 degrees. I have to give a lot more "input" to get the bike to turn. It's a lot more of a carver. Given the slack headtube and generous tire clearance, it may be better suited as a gravel racer than a cx racer.
    Awesome, thanks! I'm really liking this frame. I would snap one up right now if the headtube wasn't slack. I am wanting to build something up to race cx for the first time. Do you feel like the slackness of the ht is going to cost you much time during a race? Probably won't matter a ton for me (as in I probably won't get any podiums anyway lol) since I've never raced cross before.

  24. #274
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    Overall, the HT angle is probably not a huge deal. I mean, in my size, a Cannondale SuperX has an ever slacker 69.5 degree headtube. I never hear people complaining about those bikes.

  25. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by gospastic View Post
    They also seem really easy to knock out of true. I guess that's what you sacrifice for 66g rotors.
    Ashima's Ai2 rotors are thinner at only 1.8mm thick compared to a 2.0mm thickness for stock rotors from TRP or Avid. My Spyre SL's came stock with Shimano's organic pads so I suspect that a bunch of braking actions on a long downhill or 10-20 sprints with heavy braking might improve things but curious what is the reason the rotors are getting knocked out of true?
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