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  1. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by aske View Post
    Because we all like to look at broken carbon:
    You'll have to edit your post to show the pictures.

    Click edit post and then highlight and delete the pictures.
    Re-upload them the same way you did before and this time they should show.
    use a torque wrench

  2. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost_HTX View Post
    Damn, aske, that sucks. Lucky it was reasonably low speed, huh?

    Poor 602, too. I cant see the pics, but I assume since you mention cracking that it is a total loss? Any parts salvagable? That was a sweet bike if it is the one from your earlier posts?

    The cable stops are actually ok; they dont do anything other than make the entry holes into the frame prettier, as they are mesnt for hydro lines. The small bolts that hold them in place are rusty as eff already, though. Cheap steel...
    Sorry about the pics, I've updated the post. Should work now. The frame is a total loss. But I have 2 more ;)
    Anyways, we are going to try to get the insurance to pay for a full "comparable" bike, which obviously gonna be more money than I paid for this in total. If that is going to be the case, then the insurance company owns the bike and we need to hand it over to them, and I can use the money on new parts for the new build. If not, then it's a part-by-part cost.

  3. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMsRepBike View Post
    [FONT=Verdana]

    You'll have to edit your post to show the pictures.

    Click edit post and then highlight and delete the pictures.
    Re-upload them the same way you did before and this time they should show.
    Done

  4. #679
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    Wow, that frame held up well for a car strike. Hope you are ok.

    Unrelated question (that will likely get a wide scope of responses): what equivalency is a China gravel/cross frame compared to name brand, prices being equal? For insatnce, is a $600 china carbon frame about the same performance/quality as a name brand aluminum frame? Better, worse? Just thinking of someone (maybe me) who has a frame budget of $600, would I be better off getting a slightly used name brand aluminum frame or a China carbon? The answer is probably not exact, but curious to get the thoughts of those on the thread.


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  5. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by heybrady View Post
    Wow, that frame held up well for a car strike. Hope you are ok.

    Unrelated question (that will likely get a wide scope of responses): what equivalency is a China gravel/cross frame compared to name brand, prices being equal? For insatnce, is a $600 china carbon frame about the same performance/quality as a name brand aluminum frame? Better, worse? Just thinking of someone (maybe me) who has a frame budget of $600, would I be better off getting a slightly used name brand aluminum frame or a China carbon? The answer is probably not exact, but curious to get the thoughts of those on the thread.


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    Thanks, I'm fine now Yeah, it holded up surprisingly well, actually.

    Hmm. As you say yourself, this is quite a question! ;)

    First of all, you're comparing two different materials (as you already know). It's like comparing apples to oranges. If you would like alloy, then just go with a branded one with a good carbon fork.

    In terms of carbon:

    It's VERY dependent on the manufacturer. Some can be of high quality and some low. Even within the big brands there have been recalls of carbon frames and components.
    I would suggest that you (and everybody else) follow luescher_teknik on Instagram and Youtube. He's an old material Quality Assurance Inspector from Boeing, who's been running a carbon bicycle repair shop for many years.
    He has some very good insights into bicycle carbon quality. Let's just say that, when the big brands use the term "Aerospace grade carbon" take it with a grain of salt ;)

    Personally, I like the thought of cutting out the middle man. I'm aware of the risks and I use A LOT of time researching. I have not had any issues so far, but of course open molds have its share of issues. Just like branded.
    Sometimes the warranty is hard to claim if something goes wrong, and sometimes it's no problem. With branded bikes you are usually guaranteed some warranty by law (in most countries).

    The main concern usually condense to the fact that you "just don't know" when dealing directly. That's why it's so important to do your research and hear about other peoples experiences.
    We should start a thread on recommended suppliers. Unless it would be flooded with fake post from the suppliers. I've heard they do that.

    My opinion: If you like to fiddle with bikes and find the idea of building (and sourcing) your own bike appealing, then buying direct is definitely an option. But do some research and get some recommendations from people who did it.
    And lastly: DO NOT BUY COPIES! Copies are usually where you get the really funky carbon structural issues (old news papers, plastic, cotton fabric etc). Buy open molds from a reputed supplier.
    Last edited by aske; 12-01-2016 at 03:49 AM.

  6. #681
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    Can anyone recommend a Chinese disk fork that will accommodate Schwalbe 700c, 35c, Folding Bead, MicroSkin tires? I want to swap out the aluminum fork on my Montague 700c frame. I've since learned that 29-er rigid forks are not appropriate. (way to big) what is the fattest tire the standard cross fork will handle?

  7. #682
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    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon

    Most cross forks will clear 33c plus mud. I would think 35 will fit but may be tight if mud is involved. Most of the China forks I have seen show a blueprint of the fork. For instance, a frame I posted a few posts above shows an a2c of 396mm and the seller claims 40c clearance.

    Edit: you may have luck emailing seller and inquiring in a fork only purchase.

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  8. #683
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    Quote Originally Posted by heybrady View Post
    Most cross forks will clear 33c plus mud. I would think 35 will fit but may be tight if mud is involved. Most of the China forks I have seen show a blueprint of the fork. For instance, a frame I posted a few posts above shows an a2c of 396mm and the seller claims 40c clearance.

    Edit: you may have luck emailing seller and inquiring in a fork only purchase.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My bike is an urban commuter so mud should not be a problem. A few of the Chinese made eBay forks have dimensions, but many do not. I'll see how email communications go. Thanks.

  9. #684
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalypsoArt View Post
    Can anyone recommend a Chinese disk fork that will accommodate Schwalbe 700c, 35c, Folding Bead, MicroSkin tires? I want to swap out the aluminum fork on my Montague 700c frame. I've since learned that 29-er rigid forks are not appropriate. (way to big) what is the fattest tire the standard cross fork will handle?
    I have had 35c on wide rims on my 602 and there is still loads of clearance. I could run a 40c with fenders and not have any trouble.

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  10. #685
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    I'm looking for an open mold CX/Gravel frame with similar geometry and build features as the Santa Cruz Stigmata and I've looked at most of the usual popular sellers like DengFu, HongFu, Workswell, Miracle, Flyxii, XmIplay, XmCarbonSpeed, eBay storefronts, others. I prefer the post mount caliper mounts but flat mount would be okay, low BB drop, similar wheelbase and top tube length, Thru-Axle or QR dropouts is okay, prefer BB type BSA but PF is okay if that is the only choice.

    Has anyone run across an open mold frame similar to the SC Stigmata or can recommend other options and sellers to look at?

  11. #686
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    Hi guys, I am new to this forum and would like to ask for a little help. Also, my apologies if this is the wrong place to post or you feel this has been answered elsewhere, I have looked.
    So, I seem to be a little lost and can’t see the wood for the trees, or maybe that should be the carbon for the coal. I have been looking for a cyclocross/gravel bike frame and seem to be lost in the various companies. I guess what I would like to know is if anyone has had dealing with any of these companies, how was it and what you think of the frames themselves. The frames I have narrowed it down to all have flat mounts and thru axles and the companies have all been on Alibaba for over three years.

    First up is the AC388 sold by both ICAN and IMUST
    https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/produ...549030878.html
    https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...558553595.html

    Recommend Tyre Width 700*28~38 and can fit mudguards. Not sure about a rack though.
    My worry about this frame is the front thru axle size, 100 x 12mm. I know that some bike makers are pushing to make this the standard for road bikes, but at this moment, I cannot find a skewer this size anywhere.

    Second, we have the CX 028 from Miracle Bike and the WCB-R-112 form WorksWell, both the same frame as fair as I can tell.
    https://miracle-bikes.en.alibaba.com...ross_bike.html
    https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...543393107.html
    Maximum tire width 700*40mm. Not sure about mudguards and rack. 15mm front axle.

    The Next frame from Miracle Bike is the CX 535
    https://miracle-bikes.en.alibaba.com..._142_12mm.html
    This seems to be the update of the MC286 with flat mounts Maximum tire width 700*42mm. Not sure about mudguards and rack. 15mm front axle.

    The gravel frame from GR 029 Miracle Bike seem to be the same frame as the CX 028 but with a smaller maximum tire clearance (38mm)
    https://miracle-bikes.en.alibaba.com...38C_GR029.html
    My only problem with these frames is that through reading the forums it seems that Miracle Bike have themselves a bad reputation and I don’t know if Workswell are the same company.

    Workswell’s Gravel frame is the WCB-R-125
    https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...574896985.html
    Max tire 700*40mm 27.5”*2.1” Not sure about mudguards and rack. 15mm front axle.
    Also I am not too sure about the seat post as it is custom to the bike.

    The gravel bike from Carbonda is the CFR 505
    https://carbonda.en.alibaba.com/product/60498803364-803724038/China_supplier_high_stiffness_gravel_bicycle_carbo n_frame_cyc locross_full_carbon_frame.html
    Max tire: 700c*40mm/650B*47mm. Mudguards and rack can be fitted. Pick of 12 or 15mm front axle. Maximum chainring size 50/34T or 46/36T

    Thank for any help guys
    Freeman

  12. #687
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    Well, my 603 might be completely ruined... After no more than 300km too...
    I attempted a shift from the inner to the outer chain ring and BAM.

    The Chain jumped INWARDS, caught itself up between the inner ring and the frame and took a big chunk of the epoxy top layer (about the size of your American quarter) out of the junction between the drive side chain stay and the bottom bracket.

    Since I was cycling to work and hadn't made it more than 20 meters from my door when this happened, I just ditched the bike at home and rushed off to get the train - I haven't had a chance to remove the drive side cranks / chain rings and have a look yet... I might be adding carbon frame repair to my CV, it seems...

    The irritating thing is that I really fancied tubeless on by CX bike. So I bit the bullet and took it into the LBS. Tubeless rocks, but the mechanic also "had a look" at the shifting too... This is the second ride since I got it back and the first time I have actuated the front derailleur since he "had a look"...

    What sort of come back do I have here against the LBS?

  13. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost_HTX View Post
    Well, my 603 might be completely ruined... After no more than 300km too...
    I attempted a shift from the inner to the outer chain ring and BAM.

    The Chain jumped INWARDS, caught itself up between the inner ring and the frame and took a big chunk of the epoxy top layer (about the size of your American quarter) out of the junction between the drive side chain stay and the bottom bracket.

    This is the second ride since I got it back and the first time I have actuated the front derailleur since he "had a look"...

    What sort of come back do I have here against the LBS?
    A poorly installed and adjusted front mech is the only thing that'll cause your problem.

    It's 100% mechanic error.

    The first come back you should attempt is to never come back to that shop again.
    use a torque wrench

  14. #689
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    Yeah - I'm not going back there to have any more work done - I was wondering if the "last man frees all" principle applies here? i.e. HE was the last person to work on the bike before this bloody catastrophe - so it's his fault and therefore his responsibility to fix it? I at least want back the cash i paid for the "drive train service"

    Tbh, the cost of the tubeless set up incl tires, sealant, labour and the "service" to the drive train cost almost as much as a new 603 frame...

    Here are a couple of pics; you can see that the carbon fibre matrix itself isn't harmed - the chain has removed the epoxy filler (of which there was A LOT... the total thickness of the epoxy is something like three to five mm. Now I know why the carbon fibre weave finish fades to black at the frame junctions - they use epoxy filler to smooth out the frame and (probably) add strength and impact protection.

    I am not a happy bunny.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-img_1536.jpg   Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-img_1535.jpg  

  15. #690
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    I would like to hear from people who are REALLY using their Chinese cyclocross bike. i.e. for hard-on cyclocross/gravel riding, preferably even competitive. What frame set, and how's it performing/holding up (and how many km/mi)?

  16. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by aske View Post
    I would like to hear from people who are REALLY using their Chinese cyclocross bike. i.e. for hard-on cyclocross/gravel riding, preferably even competitive. What frame set, and how's it performing/holding up (and how many km/mi)?
    Me too!!!

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  17. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by aske View Post
    I would like to hear from people who are REALLY using their Chinese cyclocross bike. i.e. for hard-on cyclocross/gravel riding, preferably even competitive. What frame set, and how's it performing/holding up (and how many km/mi)?
    I don't race much these days, a couple gravel grinders a year and the fall midweek cyclocross circuit, but I'm a pretty big guy and I commute on mine every day there isn't snow on the ground. I have a different bike for snow days.

    My commute is about 15km each way, so commuting I average about 150km a week plus weekend and evening rides. I'd guess I have about 8000-10000 km on it so far; some on gravel, lots on rough pavement, some on smooth pavement and a little on dirt.

    Mine had been great. The internal cable routing is noisy as hell, I've siliconed all the ports to quiet it down. I know my buddy tried it and found the front end a little low, but that is a personal preference. I don't baby it all and it has had some pretty tough runs. I don't shy away from gravel, potholes, bunny hops and rail xings. With a change of clothes and my laptop I'm well North of 90kgs and I've never had problem. It has given me no cause for concern.

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    Last edited by CowtownCyclist; 05-16-2017 at 06:40 AM. Reason: spelling and grammer

  18. #693
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    Well, another 120km gravel road race done a year after her maiden voyage and she held up just as well as the first and my legs did bit better. What I'm really impressed with is the wheels. My clyde status and the brutal roads tend to take a toll on wheels but these are still spinning as true as when I retensioned them after this ride last year. I am a carbon rim convert at least so far as disc brakes are concerned. Two of my buddies broke spokes and I heard a lot of similar stories at the finish line.

  19. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by CowtownCyclist View Post
    Well, another 120km gravel road race done a year after her maiden voyage and she held up just as well as the first and my legs did bit better. What I'm really impressed with is the wheels. My clyde status and the brutal roads tend to take a toll on wheels but these are still spinning as true as when I retensioned them after this ride last year. I am a carbon rim convert at least so far as disc brakes are concerned. Two of my buddies broke spokes and I heard a lot of similar stories at the finish line.
    Cool! What frame? I guess I have 500kms on my fr-602 (with custom fork). Runs like a charm. Have a cfr-505 on the way. Looking forward to see the quality of that frame, since it's a step up in price.

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  20. #695
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    Just bought a Ridley X-night frameset brand new. Thought I was buying a high end frame. Wanted to buy a reputable frame that was well built and tested so I bought the Ridley, BUT have a look at the fork pictures. See how the inner and outer materials seem to be different? Outside looks like carbon, but the inside material sure doesn't look like pure carbon.
    Cyclocross specific chinese carbon-img_20170701_130935.jpgCyclocross specific chinese carbon-img_20170701_131041.jpgCyclocross specific chinese carbon-img_20170701_131022.jpg

  21. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiloKilo7 View Post
    Just bought a Ridley X-night frameset brand new. Thought I was buying a high end frame. Wanted to buy a reputable frame that was well built and tested so I bought the Ridley, BUT have a look at the fork pictures. See how the inner and outer materials seem to be different? Outside looks like carbon, but the inside material sure doesn't look like pure carbon.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Very interesting. Many open molds have this. I talked to a manufacturer about it. It's because many steerers are being formed around a fiber glass tube in the layup process. This tube is then usually removed after curing. But to cut costs on open molds they are sometimes left in. Ridley must be cutting costs.
    It shouldn't have any structural effects besides adding weight. It's not a method to use less carbon fiber. It's merely cutting corners on the finishing.
    I must say, I didn't expect this from a big brand.
    The gap between open mould and branded frames are getting smaller, I guess.

    Btw, is it the factory name that has been scratched out with yellow color? My guess would XDS Carbon Tech

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  22. #697
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    As stated, that fiberglass tube you see inside the steerer isn't a structural part of the fork. It's just the mold that was used to to shape the tube.

  23. #698
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    1. It is just unsettling to me to see fiberglass in a fork. I read so many stories about cheap Chinese carbon makers using low quality materials in bike frames (yes there are some good ones too), and then to find a "corner cut" in a high end frame make me nervous. What other corner(s) did they cut? Comes down to trusting a bean counter with my life..

    2.That might explain why the frame weighs 120 grams more than they listed on the sellers website (removed AFTER I bought).

    3. What also ticks me off is that the manufacture date is 9/2014 BUT they said it was a 2017 bike. I was kinda thinking the technology and materials would be within the last year.... aaaargh...

  24. #699
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    What causes me even more concern is that when I asked the Ridley seller about the seeming different material in the steerer tube, they said it was just a different color carbon !!!

  25. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by KiloKilo7 View Post
    What causes me even more concern is that when I asked the Ridley seller about the seeming different material in the steerer tube, they said it was just a different color carbon !!!
    Lol! The famous white carbon fiber. That's terrible coming from a company that should know about the technology they use.
    About the date. It could be that Ridley has purchased Taiwanese open mould frame and/or fork. The Taiwanese manufacturers also have big catalogues of pre-designed frames. In contrary to the Chinese manufacturers, only the cycle industry has access to these frames. Not us consumers. Could be an explanation for the old date... May I ask the price you paid for this frame?

    EDIT: Forget about the Taiwan theory. It's pretty clearly made n China ;)

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