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  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Kelly Knobby X Woes

    I recently prchased a Knoby X and in my excitement of actually finding one I completely screwed myself and forgot to ask if it was an older model with the flared chainstays and 135 spaced or a newer model that could accept a double ring and was 130 spaced. Well, unfortuneately for me it is an older mode.

    My dillema is that I have already purchased all of my components. (Sram force compact group, and King hubs (10 speed road) to mavics. The cranks are a complete mismatch for this frame and will not work with the standard BB. I could buy mountain cranks but I might have chainline issues, and I can't find a two ring 10 speed mountiain crank (not even sure they exist).

    My question: Beyond just selling the frame and looking for another, what are some cost effective solutions? New BB? New cranks?

    Any advice would be super helpful as I'm really at my wits end.

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    I might be interested in buying it...not much help I know

  3. #3
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    Sram Xx

    Sram is coming out with the SRAM XX double mountain cranks.
    http://www.sram.com/en/XX/products/crank.php

  4. #4
    veldrijder
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    Wheels are going to be the biggest problem. You can run any mtb cranks you want, and just remove the inner ring and possibly replace the middle with something more cross friendly. A mtb triple with the stock 44t outer and a 36t or 38t inner would be great for cross, aside from the chainline (though your frame is made to work with that...)

  5. #5
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    I had one of these frames and you can use a standard road rear hub (130mm spacing). It's a steel frame so it can bend 5mm without a problem. If you can find an older 5-bolt mtb crankset, it should have a 110 bcd just like a road compact crankset so you can use something like a 36/46t chainring setup. If you only need a mm or two to get the front cranks to work, you can also stop by your local shop and get a spacer to insert between the frame's and bottom bracket. The 130mm rear hub will actually bend the chainstays in a tiny bit, giving you a little extra clearance for the crank arms. I actually used a Shimano Ultegra crankset with an Octalink bb. I used a wider bb designed for a triple-ring crankset to get additional clearance.

    One thing I would recommend is using a double-ring setup in the front, rather than a single ring. The chainline is a bit off if you try and do a single ring and it tends to pull the chain off (toward the frame).

  6. #6
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    An end cap for the chris king rear hub can be obtained from CK to change the spacing from 130 to 135. This would help the chainline compared to squeezing the dropouts together. Agreed you will need another crank. A mtb crank for the 168 bb width would probably need to be old school 3 piece, octalink or square taper. chainline would probably be OK with the two outer chainrings alone. Chainring size availability would be an issue unless you use an old 110 square taper crank from the early to mid 90's...

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cliff
    An end cap for the chris king rear hub can be obtained from CK to change the spacing from 130 to 135. This would help the chainline compared to squeezing the dropouts together. Agreed you will need another crank. A mtb crank for the 168 bb width would probably need to be old school 3 piece, octalink or square taper. chainline would probably be OK with the two outer chainrings alone. Chainring size availability would be an issue unless you use an old 110 square taper crank from the early to mid 90's...
    I run an old square taper mtb crank on my cross bike with no problem, it is a 94bcd crankset, and actually there are still lots of chainrings out there with that size (especially on ebay).

  8. #8
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    In the past, I have found Chris Kelly himself to be extremely helpful for these type of questions.

  9. #9
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    take the frame

    to a local builder and have him reset the stays to 130 or 133 (accepts both)
    you can also just flex the stays by tightening the hub, I have done this and know folks who have done this for years
    find an older XTR Crankset 48 36 or 48 34 just take the inner ring off (been done in cross and Pro MTB for years)

    Kelly designed his bikes around the XTR gruppo so they will work, in fact most of the Kelly Team riders I knew ran as such
    one nation, under surveillance with liberty and justice for few

    still not figgering on biggering

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