Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 26
  1. #1
    FTR
    FTR is offline
    Burn baby, burn.
    Reputation: FTR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,421

    Rim brake wheel and canti recommendations for a complete noob.

    Looking at building up a CX bike soon.
    I have a full SRAM Red groupset plus bars, stem, seatpost etc but know I will need to get wheels and Canti's (dont want discs).
    Looking at the Chinese FM058 frame.
    What would you recommend for these items??

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,138
    Shimano CX70 brakes. Velocity A23 rims (now comes in off-center extrusion for rear wheel).

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: krisdrum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,258
    Are you going to race it? Commute on it? Do singletrack on it? That will help. Pretender's suggestions are good ones. I have no experience for the newer Shimano cantis. The A23s are solid if you are going clincher.

  4. #4
    Idiot at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    4,451
    Shimano CX70's aren't bad... (since I have them on my cross)

    WHeels? I went tubeless, so I went with Stan's Notubes Alpha 400 rims with Shimano 105 hubs
    2010 Specialized Secteur Elite upgraded with 32T cassette and does not have Stan's (yet)
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er upgraded with 36T cassette and Stan's Arch EX rims and tubeless. Considering a 1x10 upgrade
    2013 Cannondale CAADX-6 Tiagra upgraded to 32T cassette and Stan's Alpha 400 rims and tubeless
    2008/2009 Burton T6 156cm with Burton Triad Bindings & DC Judge boots

  5. #5
    FTR
    FTR is offline
    Burn baby, burn.
    Reputation: FTR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Good point Ted
    Yes I would want to run tubeless so I guess that the Alpha400's would be the best choice.

    Kris, it will be more a gravel road bike with a bit of singletrack for fun.
    We dont have a lot of racing in Queensland, Australia and when we do it is more riding around on a football field than what I equate CX racing with.

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,138
    If I were going tubeless I'd want a wider rim than the Stan's 400. I am unimpressed with CX tubeless, I think wide rim with tubes is at least as good, and gives you many more options with tire choice. A lot of guys swear by CX tubeless...until it fails at the worst possible time.

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,207
    the tektro cr720 brakes are inexpensive and work nicely. If you have a lot of friction in the cables the springs are maybe a little weak, but overall they are a nice option.

    I personally like dura ace hubs 32 spokes and something in a box section wheel like a mavic. I like the loose ball hubs because I can service them quickly.

  8. #8
    FTR
    FTR is offline
    Burn baby, burn.
    Reputation: FTR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    How wide a rim am I looking for and is there any issues I need to be aware of running Red levers and canti's?

  9. #9
    Idiot at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    4,451
    Quote Originally Posted by pretender View Post
    If I were going tubeless I'd want a wider rim than the Stan's 400. I am unimpressed with CX tubeless, I think wide rim with tubes is at least as good, and gives you many more options with tire choice. A lot of guys swear by CX tubeless...until it fails at the worst possible time.
    A lot of people swear by tubes, until they get a puncture or snake bite.
    A lot of people swear by tubular, until the tire rolls off the rim.

    Different strokes for different folks

    I'm happy with the Stan's since I can run the lower pressure like tubulars without burping, without its hassles (some say sealant is a hassle). And I have a Stan's tubeless setup on my Mountain Bike also
    2010 Specialized Secteur Elite upgraded with 32T cassette and does not have Stan's (yet)
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er upgraded with 36T cassette and Stan's Arch EX rims and tubeless. Considering a 1x10 upgrade
    2013 Cannondale CAADX-6 Tiagra upgraded to 32T cassette and Stan's Alpha 400 rims and tubeless
    2008/2009 Burton T6 156cm with Burton Triad Bindings & DC Judge boots

  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    317
    It depends on your weight, but standard road rims work well. I like the Mavic Open Pros with Ultegra hubs - these are pretty common, even Performance Bike has had them for about $250 (or less) a pair. I also like the velocity A23s - but they are harder to find as cheap, machine build wheelsets. Try: http://handspunwheels.com/products/; I have had good luck with their machine built wheels.

    As an aside - these are about the absolute cheapest wheels that money can buy: Dimension 700C Hybrid Wheel > Components > Wheel Goods > Road and Cross Wheels | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop (it would be hard to buy just the spokes for that price!) - so if you need a beater wheelset for running singletrack on your cross bike (which I love to do) - it is hard to beat.

  11. #11
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: krisdrum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,258
    If you want tubeless, I'd still stick with the A23, they now have tape (like Stan's) to make that rim tubeless ready.

    As for brakes, personally, I am moving to mini-v's, and although I don't have any time on them, for your use, they seem like another option to consider. At the very least they should set-up easier than a more traditional canti.

  12. #12
    Idiot at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    4,451
    Quote Originally Posted by krisdrum View Post
    If you want tubeless, I'd still stick with the A23, they now have tape (like Stan's) to make that rim tubeless ready.

    .
    Stan's have 21mm wide tape, that they would use for their Iron Cross rim.

    But, depending on the tire, you may need to use a rimstrip to get that seal you need for tubeless.
    2010 Specialized Secteur Elite upgraded with 32T cassette and does not have Stan's (yet)
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er upgraded with 36T cassette and Stan's Arch EX rims and tubeless. Considering a 1x10 upgrade
    2013 Cannondale CAADX-6 Tiagra upgraded to 32T cassette and Stan's Alpha 400 rims and tubeless
    2008/2009 Burton T6 156cm with Burton Triad Bindings & DC Judge boots

  13. #13
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    317
    I run Shimano CX70 brakes on 2 bikes. They work well with road levers, but need to be set very close to the rim. So close that you can't compress them to release the straddle cable - so I need to deflate my tires in order to remove the wheel. I am sure you could set the pads further away from the rim, but they lose power and modulation. I have also used regular V-brakes with problem solver pulleys, which also work Ok - but I like the Shimano CX70's better.

    That being said, I just put Tektro CR720 's on my 12 year-old's cross bike; but couldn't comment much on how well they would stop my 6'-4" 220lb body. They are much cheaper than the Shimano's though.

  14. #14
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    374
    Tektro CR720 - cheap, light, and work well. Otherwise I'ld probably try the tektro rx6/rx5 mini-v's.

    I run velocity major toms, so A23's if your going clincher. Or if your willing to spend about 100 a rim HED c2.

  15. #15
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: krisdrum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    3,258
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik_A View Post
    I run Shimano CX70 brakes on 2 bikes. They work well with road levers, but need to be set very close to the rim. So close that you can't compress them to release the straddle cable - so I need to deflate my tires in order to remove the wheel. I am sure you could set the pads further away from the rim, but they lose power and modulation. I have also used regular V-brakes with problem solver pulleys, which also work Ok - but I like the Shimano CX70's better.
    Not to derail, but if they sit that close to the rim for good power and modulation, what is the advantage of these over something like the Tektro min v's (926AL, CX8.4, etc.)?

  16. #16
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Will Be Was's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    89
    I have the same frame (FM058), what is the rear hub spacing on yours. I'm getting 132mm in vernier caliper. So I'm stuck on the rear hub, I have read that some people using 135mm and stretching the opening a bit an 130mm fits with space left.
    Or this is not a serious issue.

  17. #17
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    317
    132 should fit either - to be safe you could go w/ 130 and spacers

  18. #18
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,207
    any old rim should be fine, wider is better I guess but I have just grabbed whatever is at hand for year and it has not been an issue. The mavic box section rims are well built. If you ride in mud a lot, the braking surface seems to wear out fairly quickly, this picture was after a couple seasons:
    http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...9/IMG_2868.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rim brake wheel and canti recommendations for a complete noob.-img_2868.jpg  

  19. #19
    FTR
    FTR is offline
    Burn baby, burn.
    Reputation: FTR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    So there would be no real reason that I could not use a set of 32 hole Ultegra to Stans Alpha 340's I have then?

  20. #20
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Will Be Was's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    89

    thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Erik_A View Post
    132 should fit either - to be safe you could go w/ 130 and spacers
    Many thanks, I'm going to order some hubs from Bike Hub Store, so this makes it easier. Since I couldn't find red hubs with black rims, anywhere close to earth orbit (price wise).

  21. #21
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,138
    Friends of mine have had problems with the 340 rim, but perhaps that was the older, flimsier version. They've added some weight to them, although 385g is still pushing the limits for an alloy rim. IMO the 400 would be more reliable.

    I don't know why Stan's discontinued the 355 with machined sidewall.

  22. #22
    Cyclist
    Reputation: Nater's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    565
    Quote Originally Posted by FTR View Post
    So there would be no real reason that I could not use a set of 32 hole Ultegra to Stans Alpha 340's I have then?

    You already have them?

    If so, use them. They'll be fine.

  23. #23
    Idiot at large
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    4,451
    Quote Originally Posted by pretender View Post
    Friends of mine have had problems with the 340 rim, but perhaps that was the older, flimsier version. They've added some weight to them, although 385g is still pushing the limits for an alloy rim. IMO the 400 would be more reliable.

    I don't know why Stan's discontinued the 355 with machined sidewall.
    the Stan's sponsored riders (both road & cross) seem to like the 400's more than the 340's, despite the weight increase.

    Last edited by tednugent; 04-18-2013 at 11:32 AM.
    2010 Specialized Secteur Elite upgraded with 32T cassette and does not have Stan's (yet)
    2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er upgraded with 36T cassette and Stan's Arch EX rims and tubeless. Considering a 1x10 upgrade
    2013 Cannondale CAADX-6 Tiagra upgraded to 32T cassette and Stan's Alpha 400 rims and tubeless
    2008/2009 Burton T6 156cm with Burton Triad Bindings & DC Judge boots

  24. #24
    FTR
    FTR is offline
    Burn baby, burn.
    Reputation: FTR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,421
    Quote Originally Posted by Nater View Post
    You already have them?

    If so, use them. They'll be fine.
    I have these, Dura-Ace laced to Ambrosio Excelites and Fulcrum 1's.
    Sounds like I should stop worrying about specific cross wheels.
    Last edited by FTR; 04-18-2013 at 02:47 PM.

  25. #25
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Will Be Was's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    89

    FM058 queston

    Not to hijack this thread but how would you approach the internal cable routing on this frame. I have some Jig wire and Gore ride on cables.
    Specially the rear derailleur cable routing looks challenging. Do I have to install casing in the frame (during cable assembly) or cables stay bare in the frame(rub on frame?) I have seen you tube on a Ridley Noah internal routing that was on top tube, he was installing a casing for the rear brake.
    Again if this was addressed my apologies.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Upgrading Shimano 2300 (I'm a complete noob to road biking!)
    By YOLO in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 01-20-2013, 08:59 PM
  2. Im a complete noob, so answer this for me...
    By iam4clemson in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 10-27-2011, 02:59 AM
  3. tire recommendations for a noob
    By hollandbk in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 02-06-2009, 11:39 AM
  4. Replies: 39
    Last Post: 06-06-2008, 10:09 AM
  5. Canti brake questions
    By crewman in forum Cyclocross
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-10-2004, 11:29 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

EUROBIKE

Hot Deals

Latest RoadBike Articles


Latest Videos

RoadbikeReview on Facebook