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  1. #1
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    How to set-up CC crosstop levers?

    I am not using these in an in-line set up. Just alone.

    But I cannot figure it out with a weird bend for the front brakes.
    DIRT BOY

    "Pain is a big fat creature riding on your back. The farther you pedal, the heavier he feels. The harder you push, the tighter he squeezes your chest. The steeper the climb, the deeper he digs his jagged, sharp claws into your muscles." - Scott Martin


  2. #2
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    One way to get around it is to use a fork crown mounted cable stop. I used this setup for a while in order to solve other braking problems, but it also made cable routing easier. Another possibility is to use a mini V-brake up front.

  3. #3
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    Dirt Boy - Did you learn anything more about this? Coincidentally, I am dealing with the same issue tonight. My crosstop levers just arrived in the mail.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lanterne_Rouge
    Dirt Boy - Did you learn anything more about this? Coincidentally, I am dealing with the same issue tonight. My crosstop levers just arrived in the mail.
    Yes. Basically you need to run a getto set-up .

    SO I am moving to aero-levers or Paul E-Leverts and retun my cane creek.
    DIRT BOY

    "Pain is a big fat creature riding on your back. The farther you pedal, the heavier he feels. The harder you push, the tighter he squeezes your chest. The steeper the climb, the deeper he digs his jagged, sharp claws into your muscles." - Scott Martin


  5. #5
    Number 2 on the course.
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    Shouldn't be any different than setting up a mountain bike or BMX lever (or Paul E-lever). Cable end goes where the cable housing from the drop lever would usually be (outboard side). Cable housing runs out of the inboard side of the lever and down to the caliper or around to the rear brake. Can't figure out why you would need weird bends to get the housing from the lever to the caliper.

    The only difference is that instead of pulling the cable like a MTB lever, a cross lever pushes the housing which has the exact same effect.

  6. #6
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    I just realized that I misinterpreted the problem earlier... My head was still in cyclocross land, thinking about cantis. Anyway, PBB is right -- you just have it push the housing.

    If you want the brake lever on the right side, you can set it up the opposite way, so that instead of pushing the housing, the lever pulls on the head of the cable. Just remove the adjuster barrel and run the cable through that hole. Then run the housing into the other side.

    I've attached some pictures to illustrate. I also use a small washer (I think it's for an M4 bolt) to protect the soft aluminum from getting damaged by the cable head. It might not be necessary, though.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How to set-up CC crosstop levers?-cross_lever-1.jpg   How to set-up CC crosstop levers?-cross_lever-2.jpg  

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeanutButterBreath
    Shouldn't be any different than setting up a mountain bike or BMX lever (or Paul E-lever). Cable end goes where the cable housing from the drop lever would usually be (outboard side). Cable housing runs out of the inboard side of the lever and down to the caliper or around to the rear brake. Can't figure out why you would need weird bends to get the housing from the lever to the caliper.

    The only difference is that instead of pulling the cable like a MTB lever, a cross lever pushes the housing which has the exact same effect.
    Well the sharp bend comes from setting it up like the poster after you say in the second pics he posted.

    Also I am using these with road brakes. So pushing the housing will move the brakes? This will squeeze the road calipers?

    I will dont like how the cable sticks out though.
    DIRT BOY

    "Pain is a big fat creature riding on your back. The farther you pedal, the heavier he feels. The harder you push, the tighter he squeezes your chest. The steeper the climb, the deeper he digs his jagged, sharp claws into your muscles." - Scott Martin


  8. #8
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    Should be like the second picture.

    The lever will work with road calipers. You are still changing the length of cable relative to the length of housing between the lever and the caliper .

    Not much to do about the cable head though.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeanutButterBreath
    Should be like the second picture.

    The lever will work with road calipers. You are still changing the length of cable relative to the length of housing between the lever and the caliper .

    Not much to do about the cable head though.
    Thanks. I will see. But most likely just going to use aero levers.

    One shop said to use shifter cables to avoid it sticking out.
    DIRT BOY

    "Pain is a big fat creature riding on your back. The farther you pedal, the heavier he feels. The harder you push, the tighter he squeezes your chest. The steeper the climb, the deeper he digs his jagged, sharp claws into your muscles." - Scott Martin


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