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  1. #1
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    2007 Cannondale system six upgrade?

    Hi there. I just bought a used 2007 Cannondale system six with Ultegra 6800 components. Anybody think it would be a good idea to upgrade the bike with Ultega R8000 or Dura Ace R9100, or should I save for a new bike? Is this still a decent bike? Thanks, Bill
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2007 Cannondale system six upgrade?-00o0o_jobpxhr3pik_1200x900.jpg  

  2. #2
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by billoved7 View Post
    Hi there. I just bought a used 2007 Cannondale system six with Ultegra 6800 components. Anybody think it would be a good idea to upgrade the bike with Ultega R8000 or Dura Ace R9100, or should I save for a new bike? Is this still a decent bike? Thanks, Bill
    #1 that bike does not have Ultegra 6800 on it.

    #2 what's wrong with the group that you want to upgrade

    #3 what do you expect to gain with an upgrade
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  3. #3
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    #1 Sorry, new to the game, don't quite know what I am talking about. Closer look reviels Shimano Ultegra RD-6700A-GS
    #2 Bike shop notes read: rear derailleur,big chain ring,cables/housing.
    chain tool indicates chain is in good shape, cassette looks relatively fresh
    brake pads and tires in good shape
    #3 Expect to gain smoother shifting, hoping for a greater power transfer.
    Thanks for your feedback!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by billoved7 View Post
    #1 Sorry, new to the game, don't quite know what I am talking about. Closer look reviels Shimano Ultegra RD-6700A-GS
    #2 Bike shop notes read: rear derailleur,big chain ring,cables/housing.
    chain tool indicates chain is in good shape, cassette looks relatively fresh
    brake pads and tires in good shape
    #3 Expect to gain smoother shifting, hoping for a greater power transfer.
    Thanks for your feedback!
    A new groupset will not improve your power transfer.

    Smoother shifting? Is the shifting bad or could it just be better? If this bike is a 2007, I would be willing to guess it has 6600, not 6700 unless parts have been changed. The 6600 is a perfectly good groupset and since this is before Shimano went to shift cables going under the bar tape, it will not suffer from the "chewing shift cables problem" that later Shimano shifters have. I have a 5600 bike and I have no complaints about its shifting.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  5. #5
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    A new groupset will not improve your power transfer.
    I would be willing to guess it has 6600, not 6700 [/QUOTE]It's definitely 6600 (or 5600). You can see the side shift cables in the photo.
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  6. #6
    Slowski
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    Sorry, but what is going on with that steerer tube/stem setup? If you haven't already, I would ditch the steerer tube extension and just get a stem with more rise if needed. That has to give some funky handling.

    Switching to 6800 or later would require new wheels since right now you have a 10 speed wheelset. There are some who prefer 6600 vs 6700 shifters due to the cable routing on the 6700 causing more friction. I would say if the groupset you are using is working fine, keep it.

    I have a 03 Cannondale R800 which came with a 105 9 speed (5500) group. I replaced it with a 10 speed 5700 group only because I broke my shifter and couldn't find a replacement. In hind sight, I probably should have bought a newer bike, but I still ride it now. Weigh the cost before taking the plunge.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I would be willing to guess it has 6600, not 6700
    It's definitely 6600 (or 5600). You can see the side shift cables in the photo.[/QUOTE]

    Yes, I see that now.

    You can't see the RD in the pic, but it's possible someone changed it at some point.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  8. #8
    pmf
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    It's a 10+ year old bike -- I wouldn't change a thing. OK, maybe peel the Livestrong decal off the top tube and put a longer stem on it if that short one that's on it makes you feel too scrunched up on the bike. Then just ride it and save your money. Upgrading the components would cost a lot of money and not really get you much in return. If you're new to road biking, one of two things will happen by next year: (1) The bike will be in the basement gathering dust and you can use the money you saved to fund whatever the next hobby is, or (2) You'll be lusting after a new, shiny plastic bike with 8000 components. So just get out and ride (if it ever warms up) and discover if road biking is your thing or not.

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    I saw the bike mechanic moving the rear derailer back and forth saying it has too much play. He showed me another bike's derailer that had hardly any side to side movement. The only other thing is the big chain ring is a bit shark toothed. So maybe I'll just do those things, and like you said, get out, ride, and see if it's my thing. Thanks.

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    I'll check into the stem. Thanks for the advice.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by billoved7 View Post
    I saw the bike mechanic moving the rear derailer back and forth saying it has too much play. He showed me another bike's derailer that had hardly any side to side movement. The only other thing is the big chain ring is a bit shark toothed. So maybe I'll just do those things, and like you said, get out, ride, and see if it's my thing. Thanks.
    Yikes! Sounds like you bought a bike with a lot of miles on it. I hope you didn't pay too much. Are ALL the teeth in the big ring shark toothed? I say this because some teeth are designed to be sharper and shorter than others in order to make upshifts smoother.

    If rings are worn, chain and cassette are likely worn too unless they were changed recently.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  12. #12
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    Yeah the shifting is not good. I had a mechanic look at it, and he was trying to adjust it, and gave up. The rear derailer has a lot of side to side movement. He recommended replacing it with Shimano Ultegra RD-6700A-GS 10-Speed Medium Cage Rear Derailleur Gray. That is what he wrote up, not sure if that is what should be done though. Anyway, Thanks for the advice!

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    Here are the notes on the work up from the bike shop:
    rear derailleur
    big chainring
    cables/housing

    chain tool indicates chain is in good shape, cassette looks relatively fresh
    brake pads and tires in good shape.

    Do you think if I replace the derailer with a dura ace that it will produce even better shifting than Ultegra, or waste of money?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by billoved7 View Post
    Here are the notes on the work up from the bike shop:
    rear derailleur
    big chainring
    cables/housing
    Cables and housings will probably do more to improve your shifting performance than anything else you can do. I would replace those on any used bike. If you do nothing else, replace your cables and housings.

    Quote Originally Posted by billoved7 View Post
    chain tool indicates chain is in good shape, cassette looks relatively fresh
    brake pads and tires in good shape.
    OK, at least those are two things that were replaced by the previous owner.

    Quote Originally Posted by billoved7 View Post
    Do you think if I replace the derailer with a dura ace that it will produce even better shifting than Ultegra, or waste of money?
    WASTE OF MONEY. If I were you, I would put a new 105 mid-cage derailleur on it. Trust me, you won't be able to tell the difference between a 105, Ultegra or Dura-Ace. And your wallet will be happier.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  15. #15
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    If you want to upgrade you should upgrade the fit.

    Not to sound like an alarmist but that steer tube set up may not be safe. It's definitely an indicator that a race bike such at that is not the best suited for your preferred riding style/position.

    As already said, get a stem with much more rise as opposed to that set up though.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    If you want to upgrade you should upgrade the fit.

    Not to sound like an alarmist but that steer tube set up may not be safe. It's definitely an indicator that a race bike such at that is not the best suited for your preferred riding style/position.

    As already said, get a stem with much more rise as opposed to that set up though.
    I would definitely agree with this. Not to mention, the fact that your stem is pointed down negates some advantage of the steerer extension.

    Lose the steerer extension and get one of these. Much safer:

    https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/bontrager-elite-stem-40-degree-rise-236836-1.htm

    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  17. #17
    Slowski
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    You gotta flip that puppy to -40 and be totally slammed.

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