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  1. #1
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    Anyone in CT want to help w a build?

    I have a new S-works Astana frame with DA 9000 group. I think I have everything for the build.
    My local shop wants a reasonable $250 or so to build it up.
    They want $500 for me to be part of it.
    I really just want to build it myself but need some hand-holding.
    It's been a long time since I worked in a shop.
    If here is anyone in the Madison, Ct area that would assist me in a complete build I'd make it worth your time.
    I don't begrudge their pricing but I just want to build it myself - with help.
    $500 seems steep to me. I've built bikes but a long time ago. A few hours...?
    Dennis
    Dennismcohan@comcast.net.

  2. #2
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    it's easy, just start by going for it. ask some questions here.

  3. #3
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    That's actually $250 for the build and $250 for the lessons... not $500 for a co-build. I'd pull up the shimano instructions and start. See how far you get and then go back to the internet for those answers.


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  4. #4
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    PM me if Meriden isn't too far for you.

  5. #5
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    Modern groupsets are easy to install and set up. The only gotchas are going to be cable routing and any frame/cable adapters you might need. Hopefully your frame came with all of the goodies. Cutting the steerer and possibly BB adapters are 'interesting' as well. These need to be done correctly, or disaster awaits. Just take your time and be careful. Stop and ponder anything you aren't sure about.

    I'm sure if you get stuck, you could post a few pictures here and someone will be able to help you figure it out.

    There are also a ton of videos on youtube you can consult (some good and some bad).

    Edit: this is always a good place to start - it's got really good visuals for most of the installation procedures (depending on what type of brake you are installing). He talks about details in regards to setup, etc.. It's not specific to your bike, but it's still pretty good.

    Last edited by Migen21; 09-02-2017 at 12:31 PM.

  6. #6
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    I agree with Migen. If you have some basic mechanical skills its not difficult. Its also rewarding to build your own bike. Read up, watch some videos, and TAKE YOUR TIME. If you get stuck or confused, ask for some help here. I would not pay someone $500 to teach me how to do this. Use the money you saved to buy any tools you might need. I have built up 4 of my bikes (3 Campy; 1 SRAM) and made it through with only one mistake (cutting chain too short). That was caused by rushing and not double checking

  7. #7
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    I suppose cutting the steerer will be the most critical step!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony_mm View Post
    I suppose cutting the steerer will be the most critical step!
    I always find getting the cable casing cut to the right length (more for esthetics) the hardest part. For the steerer, I like to mount the stem and bars and make sure its exactly where I want it (maybe even do a ride or two) and then just cut about 2mm below the top of the stem

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjdhawkhill View Post
    That's actually $250 for the build and $250 for the lessons... not $500 for a co-build. I'd pull up the shimano instructions and start. See how far you get and then go back to the internet for those answers.


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  10. #10
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    Thanks guys. I'll get started on my own and see where it goes.
    Thanks Peter P for the offer. I may followup on that if I get stuck.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    I always find getting the cable casing cut to the right length (more for esthetics) the hardest part. For the steerer, I like to mount the stem and bars and make sure its exactly where I want it (maybe even do a ride or two) and then just cut about 2mm below the top of the stem
    Agree. The steerer is easy if you're willing to let yourself think clearly. Get the stem where you want it (doing some rides makes a lot of sense), pull off the top cap and mark the steerer just above the stem, and then cut it so you have 2-3 mm clearance.

    Cable casing is harder I agree. You have to make sure you have enough casing so that things don't bind when you turn the bars sharply but not so much that they're sticking out all over. Best to cut a little long and if it becomes an issue, go back and shorten.

  12. #12
    hfc
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    I'll echo others with a go for it! Cables will probably come out OK and if not, you're out whatever it costs for a new set. I've only cut a carbon steerer once, and yes it is a little nerve wracking when you make the first move with the saw, so I wouldn't fault you for punting that to the shop. The stuff you learn building the bike yourself will help you learn the bike skills when stuff needs work down the road, you'll be able to fix it yourself so you'll be saving even more $$$.

  13. #13
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    Just make sure you use a torque wrench and use the proper torque where necessary. Grease or loctite threads where appropriate and use carbon paste where appropriate.

    Other than that there's really not much you could fck up and it's all pretty easy to figure out using google and a bit of trail and error.

    Edit: Exceptions may be the wonderful world of BB standards, adapters and crank compatibility and chain length.

    I'd definitely not mechanically gifted and had not problems to speak of building a bike perfectly but it had a standard BSA bb so that didn't require any real knowledge.
    Chain length is easy but you do need to know what you're doing because trail & error doesn't really cut it.
    Last edited by Jay Strongbow; 09-04-2017 at 02:14 AM.

  14. #14
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    tons of good advice in this thread, If you have questions remember there are no dumb questions except the ones that weren't asked. ALSO taking a pic or two of what you ae trying to describe works wonders, Measure twice before you cut and always err on the side of too long. The Park Tools website is another great source of info... Enjoy the process and if you get frustrated walk away and come back later. Problems often solve themselves given time.
    how are you going to clamp the frame?

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