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  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Best Oil Chain Lubricant

    Hello Everyone!!!

    I am not sure if this topic has been brought up in the past but anyways, I just shelled out some sereous bucks on a brand new Cassette Sram Red and KMC Chain. My cassette was less than 1 year old and it was worn, My mechanic told me due to lack of lubrication which is the #1 reason for wear and tear on chains and cassette.

    Now I have been reading up on the diffrent lubricants including this stuff called Purple Extreme dry lube being sold by Probike kit.

    http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=A1535

    Can I get your opinion as to whats the best lubricant to use out there and and why?? I live in the Midwest and I know we have gotten alot of rain here lately but overall its pretty dry conditions.

    Thanks in Advance

    MidwestPlaya

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    This is one of the most common topics with lots of different approaches to chain/drivetrain maintenance. First, read this:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

    I like to use one of the "self-cleaning" lubes: just squirt it on while cranking backwards, then wipe off all the gunk. Wait overnight and wipe it down again, voila: yer done! The drier lubes supposedly pick up less grit but wash off quicker in the wet. The wetter lubes won't go away as quick in the wet but pick up more gunk. Regardless, after a rainstorm ride, I always relube... 1500-2000 miles on my current setup and no measurable chainwear yet (by the ruler method).

    Did you ride 5000-10000 miles last year and never lubed your chain?

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Homebrew.

  4. #4
    Wave, dammit!
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    I just recently starting using homebrew myself and it seems to work pretty well thus far.
    When a cyclist in your area is injured or killed by a motorist, make an extra effort the next day to go for a ride. It doesn't have to be an organized ride, or even a long ride. Hell, ride a 15 minute loop around your neighborhood if you want.

    Just be seen riding your bike.

    Do it to make people aware we're out there. Do it to honor a fellow traveler. Do it because you're lucky enough to still be able to.

  5. #5
    Master debator.
    Reputation: nOOky's Avatar
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    I always use White Lightening, and I get years on a cassette and chain etc. I always lube the chain before every ride though.
    "I felt bad because I couldn't wheelie; until I met a man with no bicycle"

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Thanks for the input Milk,

    To be honest I dont do any tye of maintenance on my Supersix I have 3 boys that cleans the bike for me but I think they have not done a good job in lubricating the chain. I just checked the oil bottles I purchased 2 years ago and they are still pretty full except for the smaller bottle.lols Are any of these any good? I just picked them up at my local bike shop.

    I did 3k last year thats about it and when I replaced my chain last week thats when the skipping started on the cassette, so the shop recommended a new Sram Red Cassette and the problem was fixed.

    I think I will try the oil that cleans and lube at the same time.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Midwest Playa; 03-15-2012 at 11:07 PM.

  7. #7
    A wheelist
    Reputation: Mike T.'s Avatar
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    Best? Homebrew. It works perfectly, has for hmmm 15-20 years and I'm never going back.
    .
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

    I'm not cranky; I just have a violent reaction to stupid people.

  8. #8
    This space for sale
    Reputation: dougydee's Avatar
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    Those lubes will work fine. I've been using homebrew the last 6 months with good results. Any lubrication is better than no lubrication.

  9. #9
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougydee
    Those lubes will work fine. I've been using homebrew the last 6 months with good results. Any lubrication is better than no lubrication.

    Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own? lols

    Thanks

    Midwestplaya

  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Chain-L is my favorite. Great stuff, last longer than anything else I've tried.

  11. #11
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midwest Playa
    Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own? lols

    Thanks

    Midwestplaya
    I beleive homebrew is a mixture of 3:1 odorless mineral spirts and oil.

  12. #12
    Wave, dammit!
    Reputation: Opus51569's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midwest Playa
    Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own? lols

    Thanks

    Midwestplaya
    Homebrew = 3 or 4 parts Odorless Mineral Spirits (OMS) mixed with 1 part motor oil. Some folks will let their chain sit in the solution. I mix mine in a small plastic bottle with a narrow tip so I can apply to the chain on the bike.
    When a cyclist in your area is injured or killed by a motorist, make an extra effort the next day to go for a ride. It doesn't have to be an organized ride, or even a long ride. Hell, ride a 15 minute loop around your neighborhood if you want.

    Just be seen riding your bike.

    Do it to make people aware we're out there. Do it to honor a fellow traveler. Do it because you're lucky enough to still be able to.

  13. #13
    A wheelist
    Reputation: Mike T.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midwest Playa
    Wait a minuite are you really sereous when you say homebrew?? I am lost, what exactly do you mean by homebrew?? you make your own?
    You must be very new here. There are lots of threads on this. It's a 50/50 mix for me - mineral spirits and synthetic engine oil. A liter of each lasts me years and years and costs maybe $10.
    .
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

    I'm not cranky; I just have a violent reaction to stupid people.

  14. #14
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    I like TriFlo

  15. #15
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    ProLink chain lube is the best for me.

    http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
    With people like Peter P. around, I am done posting on this website. Mean people have driven me off after 9 plus years. Good luck newbies beware.

  16. #16
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Rock & Roll Gold Lube for me, easy to put on and cleans as it goes on.
    2003 Airborne Valkyrie Titanium with Campy Centaur
    2007 Everti Titanium Sram Red Boyd Aero Wheelset
    2012 Felt ZC Dura Ace DI2
    2013 Roubaix Pro SL4 Ultegra HED Ardenne's CL

    2011 Sette Forza Elite with 5700 group for sale.

  17. #17
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    Standard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Midwest Playa
    Can I get your opinion as to whats the best lubricant to use out there and and why?? I live in the Midwest and I know we have gotten alot of rain here lately but overall its pretty dry conditions.
    Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

    1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
    2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
    3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube.
    4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
    5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty


    Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

    No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.

  18. #18
    Resident Curmudgeon
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    I use "home brew" mixed 3 parts odorless min. spirits to 1 part oil. What kind of oil? Pretty much whatever I happen to have on hand. We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. Motor oil 5W-20 usually, because that's what my car takes. Using an old catsup squeeze bottle, I drizzle it on the chain, aiming for the middle where the rollers are. I apply it pretty heavily. The OMS will dissolve and float the dirt off the chain, then evaporate and leave the oil as a lubricant. Then, while that's drying I'll do the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. I clean them using the odorless mineral spirits (OMS) without oil. Park's cog cleaning brush is good for doing the cassette. For the chain rings, I just use a rag with OMS sprayed on it and wipe them down while I'm turning the cranks. I do the same to the rear derailleur pulleys and any other parts of the derailleurs or brakes that are grungy. Park's brush is useful here too.

    By now the chain is dry enough to wipe down although I like to leave it overnight. I turn the cranks slowly with one hand while the chain runs through a clean rag held by my other hand. I keep turning the cranks, and the rag until no more black residue comes off on the rag.

    I clean all the drive train once every 200 - 300 miles, and immediately after every rain ride.
    Before you criticize someone walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them you'll be a mile away & you'll have their shoes.

  19. #19
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons
    Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

    1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
    2 - drip on lube while pedaling slowly so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
    3 - keep pedaling the cranks for a minute or so to loosen all the dirt on the chain and to get full penetration of the lube.
    4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
    5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty


    Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain or other dirty conditions), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

    No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.
    +1 on the AFTER ride...NOT before, you must give the solvents time to dry off so the lube doesn't splatter all over everything and attract a lot of extra grit and dirt. any light lube (tri flow, prolink, dumonde, or homebrew) will work great. don't use too much, wipe off all you can.
    i do think a 'bright, shiny, well lubed chain is possible, every bike on the team i wrench for has one all the time. of course i wash those bikes every day, and clean everything on the drive train and re-lube. not everyone will want to do that much work, but it's definitely possible if you're into it. every pro racers bike looks brand new every day.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  20. #20
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    i have been using ProLink ProGold for last 5 years and have zero complaints.
    I always lube *after* the ride or about 24 hours or more before any ride, as other indicated. I am too lazy to brew my own. with proLink ProGold you wont use all that much lube and its not all that expensive. I lube every ~500-600km or so.

  21. #21
    Poseur
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    You have a Cannondale Super Six and leave it to your kids to maintain it?
    I like cats, I just can't finish a whole one by myself.

  22. #22
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    OP, for the best oil chain, you must journey to the land of the Golden Rhinos. There look towards the Seven Sisters of Heaven during the month of Ramadan. The 3rd Sister should be right above The Table of Armstrong. You must make the climb to the top where you will come across a small cave known as Landis' Mouth. In there you will find the Emerald Pool. It is in this pool that you will find the best oil for your chain. Legend has it that this pool is made out from the tears of 10,000 baby Cherubs.
    Remember to not look at the eyes of Medusa! Good luck brave one.

    Failing that or you are too chicken for it, the advise of the prior posters will suffice.

  23. #23
    Sleep Expert
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    At 3000 miles, your cassette was not worn out, even if you didn't lube your chain at all. Maybe if you rode it in the dirt all the time, but for road riding, you should get a lot more miles from a cassete.
    Many shops will tell you the cassette wears out fast just to make a sale. There are many people who will get years of use out of a cassette. Heck, there's bikes from the '80's still with their originals on them.
    My carbon footprint has cleats

  24. #24
    eRacer
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    Chain-l Lube

    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch77
    Chain-L is my favorite. Great stuff, last longer than anything else I've tried.
    +1 for for Chain-L Lube
    Best lube I've ever used, and I have experimented with lots including Homebrew.
    Chain-L lasts forever, is very quiet and smooth, and very little dirt accumulation like other thick lubes.
    A large bottle is only $12,and with only 1-drop per roller, a bottle lasts a long time.

    john
    John Lapoint / San Diego
    God is Great, Beer is Good, and People are Crazy!

  25. #25
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    Boeshield T-9 does a good job!

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