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Bike is in the shop, chain is toast.

8K views 108 replies 46 participants last post by  Jay Strongbow 
#1 ·
Well after a 75 mile ride and 3 flats on that ride, I decided to put my bike in the shop for much needed tune up.

My chain was stretched so far it was over the the measurement range on the park cc-2 measurement device.

So my question to you all, is 4000 miles too much for a chain? Will i also need new chain rings and a cassette if they do replace the chain?

Also, now i am at a point where i might be upgrading components in my bike.

As it currently stands
105 brake shifters
105 front and rear derailurers
FSA 50/34 crankset
tiagra chain
tiagra 11-32 10sp rear cassette.

I also had rear wheel that was really out of true.
 
#3 ·
Chains don't stretch, but we know what you mean.

If the chain was that elongated from wear it is a good bet putting on a new one to spec is not going to play nice with the cog/rings.

4k miles to much? For you apparently.

Each rider's weight, habits, [watts/RPM/power] cleaning and lubing etc makes for a different span IMO.

Unless that is a super nice frame, I'd go bike shopping myself... ;)
 
#5 ·
My weight fluctuates 190 pre summer weight, 170 post summer weight.
I keep it clean, but i rode alot in the winter thru spring months, salt and snow on the road was not kind to it. I have also taken it on some bike paths with gravel and packed cinder.

The frame is an alum alloy novara strada.
 
#4 ·
4000 miles is usually too long. But it depends on the lube and how often you lube and clean the chain. Look at the chain rings and cassette teeth. If they look too worn, replace. If the new chain skips, then the cassette or chainring teeth are too worn.

If you replace the chain before it's totally worn out, the chainrings and cassettes can last through a number of chains.

Your components are perfectly acceptable. "upgrading" won't make you faster.

You are riding enough that it would pay to buy the tools to do routine maintenance like checking and changing chains. That way you can just take care of it in a half hour rather than spending time to take it to the shop and pick it up... and at least around here the wait at most shops for a tuneup is a number of days.
 
#6 ·
Wasn't he already supposed to buy a new bike? Anyway new components on a year old bike with only 4000 miles is ridiculous unless you are abusing the drive train. Put a chain on it and it should be fine. Adding upgraded components to an entry level frame is silly, get a better frame the upgraded components are not going to change the way the bike rides in any kind of significant way.
 
#7 ·
I will get a new bike after august, i am currently looking at a few jamis models. But after i get a new bike this bike will be primarily a rain and bike to throw on the trainer.

I just didnt realize when i started biking on the road in october i would put this amount of miles.
 
#10 ·
Agree, I'd do a cassette and then see how the rear wheel behaves...

Good on you for WEARING **** OUT!! Booya, and like that!!!


You deserve that new bike. [a little choir preaching....]


Maybe get a cadence speedo combo and use some higher avg RPM/cadence and stretch the miles and not the chain.. [even though you didn't actually stretch that one ;)]
 
#13 ·
Buying a new cassette after 4000 miles is silly. Get a new chain and be done with it. Always wipe it down if it gets wet (especially if there's salt). I usually replace chains after 3-3.5k miles, but the new ultegra 11s seem to be pretty solid for even longer. But depends on riding/cleaning habits.

I wouldn't worry too much about cadence if your Garmin is averaging zeros. Mine is usually in the low 80s or so. Cadence is pretty individually specific and most self-select a pretty efficient cadence for themselves. Never hurts to try out different cadences, though.
 
#14 ·
If you have the cash, buy yourself a new bike. You deserve it. Don't upgrade components on the current bike. Keep the current one for when the new one is in the shop, or the carbon frame is being sent back for its fifth warranty replacement.
 
#16 ·
So my question to you all, is 4000 miles too much for a chain? Will i also need new chain rings and a cassette if they do replace the chain?
As you've noticed the chain is shot at this point.
You won't need chain rings, you may need a cog or 2 replaced on the cassette. You will notice this with a new chain if the cog skips. What you need to do is replace the chain before it hits the past due replacement point, this will minimize wear to the cogs and save you cash. If you go past the point, you wear the cogs and will shorten the life of the next chain (as it will try to match to a worn cog).
At this point you will have learned a lesson.
 
#23 ·
I've been cycling chains every 1000\1500miles and I've managed better than 10,000 miles on a coupla different drivetrains using two chains apiece. I plan on cycling three chains on the bike I just put together.

Remove and replace chain, clean and oil the removed chain and repeat every 1500 miles using clean oiled chain. All the chains wear in pretty evenly. I figure that three chains would serve better than two but I won't know till a few miles on my new drivetrain.

I read about this practice here, on RBR.
 
#28 ·
I get over 5k miles before I ever start to see measurable wear on a chain.
I was gonna say you shouldn't wear out a chain in 4kmi. But it's not unheard of. Then I remember your post from a while back. Given how you take care of your chain, be glad you got 4k miles.

forums.roadbikereview.com/general-cycling-discussion/when-replace-crank-assmebly-your-bike-346632.html#post4847691


I agree with the others, replace the chain, nothing else. You'll know right away if you need a new cassette. Do not upgrade any other components if you're getting a new bike. That would be silly.
And learn to use a ruler to check your chain regularly and save this potential disaster from occurring.
 
#35 · (Edited)
My chain was stretched so far it was over the the measurement range on the park cc-2 measurement device.
There are way too many variables for one answer to fit all. How much power do you put through the chain? Under what conditions? How and how often do you service the chain?

If I was a bike shop owner I would measure every chain on every bike that came in for any service and I'd sell a LOT of chains as NEW chain can be made to look worn out with a Park chain gauge.
Don't trust anyone who sells chains to tell you when you need a new one. You can't tell the honest guys from the ones who want to sell lots of chains.
 
#36 ·
There are way too many variables for one answer to fit all. How much power do you put through the chain? Under what conditions? How and how often do you service the chain?

If I was a bike shop owner I would measure every chain on every bike that came in for any service and I'd sell a LOT of chains as NEW chain can be made to look worn out with a Park chain gauge. Read my Chains page and maybe you too can get 11,000 miles out of a chain like I did. And almost a year later I'm still on the same cassette (with the new chain).

Don't trust anyone who sells chains to tell you when you need a new one. You can't tell the honest guys from the ones who want to sell lots of chains.
The guys at the local bike shop have a good rep.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Indian-Valley-Bikeworks-Bikeworks/155241069220

I am regular there and club i am with recommends them.
 
#43 ·
Oh, for &$#^ sake, can we dispense with the "Oh, your chain isn't actually stretched" comments every time we refer to a chain being worn out. Yes, we get it - the metal didn't actually stretch. But for that matter...
- the teeth on my chain rings didn't literally turn into "shark teeth"
- the tube didn't actually get bitten by a snake
- bottom brackets can't turn into "toast"
- the frame didn't literally "explode"
- no bike rim has ever turned into a "taco" - not even once
- I didn't really "blow up" on that climb
- I didn't even "pedal squares"

We have metaphors that make - or should make - discussing things like drive train wear quicker and easier. "Chain stretch" is understood by EVERYONE to mean a worn out and or elongated chain.

So yes, you need a new chain.
Yes, a cassette will last 4,000+ miles... when you replace the chain sooner
But yes, you likely need a new cassette (or several of the cogs) because you didn't replace the chain sooner.

In short, you've got a stretched chain that caused some shark-toothing resulting in a cassette that's toast.
 
#44 ·
Oh, for &$#^ sake, can we dispense with the "Oh, your chain isn't actually stretched" comments every time we refer to a chain being worn out. Yes, we get it - the metal didn't actually stretch. But for that matter...
THANK YOU! It's more politely than anything I can pen; it was get to be very annoying. Same with the cables.

OP, I just changed my after 3.6k (Ultegra 6800). It was on/slightly under the 1/8" mark. I spaced it because on my old 7 speed (DA 7400) I can normally got a whole season without changing (~8-9k). So far it's behaving with the new chain. Good luck.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Yes, 4,000 miles is too much for a chain.

Do you ride that much in a year?

You can replace a 105 chain and cassette twice a year for less than $150-$160, annually, plus $5 tip each time, if you ride 5k miles a year and buy the equipment at Ribble and take it to an LBS that will do the work for you.

Or you can buy a chain whip, lock ring nut, and chain removal tool to do it yourself for $100 annual maintenance cost.

You'll then get at least a couple of years out your chain rings.


Shimano 10 Spd 5701 105 Chain, Chains, CHAINS

Shimano 10 Spd 105 5700 Cassette, Cassettes, CASSETTES
 
#53 ·
"Stretch" as defined by Merriam-Webster and used as an intransitive verb is
"1
a : to become extended in length or breadth or both
b : to extend over a continuous period
2
: to become extended without breaking
3
a : to extend one's body or limbs
b : to lie down at full length"

No one is referring to the metal's Young's Modulus unless you are superman.
 
#54 ·
welcome to the new world of components. On my older 6500 bike I went years without changing a part. On my 6800 replaced the chain after one year or 4000+miles. I'm also changing the r.d. cable every 2,500 miles but that's another story. You can probably get by replacing the rear cassette every 2nd or 3rd time you replace the chain assuming the chain did not wear excessively.
 
#62 ·
Since everyone is getting so technical, chains DO stretch. However like a rubber band, bicycle chains only stretch within their elastic range (for loads a human can exert). Unlike a rubber band, chains only stretch microscopically given the modulus of elasticity for steel. When the stress of pedaling is released the chain elastically returns to it's previous length.
 
#63 ·
Absolutely correct. But to the rider and wrench, that stretch is immeasurable, will never be seen, and doesn't contribute to the measured elongation used as an indicator of chain wear.
 
#71 ·
Got my bike back tonight, with a new chain. And tuned up. It skipped a little at first but after about 5 miles it all settled down. One thing i noticed, though the pedal stroke felt more direct and responsive now. There wasn't a dead feeling like i had this weekend. Tomorrow i will do a test ride to see how it all feels.
 
#73 · (Edited)
Got my bike back tonight, with a new chain. And tuned up. It skipped a little at first but after about 5 miles it all settled down. One thing i noticed, though the pedal stroke felt more direct and responsive now. There wasn't a dead feeling like i had this weekend. Tomorrow i will do a test ride to see how it all feels.
Can't wait for the report.

Perhaps, start a new thread to really flesh it out...
 
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