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  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Cleaning wet/dirty bike?

    What's the best method? I hosed mine down then toweled mostly dry and sprayed half a can of triflow on anything that might rust, then wiped most of it off.

    There has to be a better/easier way
    "For me, I don't go the judgmental route. Everyone's got their own story. I go about my life in my own way. I know where I'm going; I know what I want. With that being said, sometimes there's going to be a little humor involved. At first glance, second glance, third glance, you may not get it. That's OK. It's not for you to get. It's for me to enjoy."

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Wonderful. Search didn't help but once I posted then 10 other threads showed up under helpful links
    "For me, I don't go the judgmental route. Everyone's got their own story. I go about my life in my own way. I know where I'm going; I know what I want. With that being said, sometimes there's going to be a little humor involved. At first glance, second glance, third glance, you may not get it. That's OK. It's not for you to get. It's for me to enjoy."

  3. #3
    Just Plain Bitter
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    I use a hose, bucket, dishsoap and a soft bristle brush. No high pressure nozzles! Wipe it down and run ProLink through the chain until it gets all of the grit out. I use a product called CorrosionX on all of the little bits that might rust or corrode, I use this stuff to protect my Salt Water fishing equipment so I know it works! Nope, there is no easier way! Specially after riding in the rain!
    Quote Originally Posted by Catzilla;
    Like, if "troubling" were a level seven worry, "concerning" would be a six, with "frightening" being an eight and "unexplained genital rash" being a nine.

    2007 Pegoretti Duende Campy SR 11 Campagnolo Neutron
    2009 Look 586 Campy SR 11 HED Ardennes/HED Jet 6
    2012 Raliegh Roper - Stock for now

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rward325 View Post
    i use a hose, bucket, dishsoap and a soft bristle brush. No high pressure nozzles! Wipe it down and run prolink through the chain until it gets all of the grit out. I use a product called breakfree on all of the little bits that might rust or corrode, i use this stuff to protect my salt water hunting shotgun so i know it works! ...
    fify?

  5. #5
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    Yeah, no high pressure because then water will work into the bearings in your headset, crank and cause havok. No grease, big problems.
    With people like Peter P. around, I am done posting on this website. Mean people have driven me off after 9 plus years. Good luck newbies beware.

  6. #6
    The Cube
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    as above, light rinse with water, very low pressure. I use the giant liquid silk penetrating lube sprayed briskly on the chain to clear debris, the on all the drivetrain/exposed metal, more than is probably necessary. give it a minute to work in, dry off the excess, then go about a normal clean/lube of chain and appropriate moving components.

    so pretty similar to the OP's method. be sure to keep the water pressure low, though. and, yeah, it sucks, but its an extra 10 minutes instead of giving up an entire ride.
    K$

  7. #7
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    I don't usually bother. I wipe down the drivetrain with a dry rag, relube if necessary, and forget about it. It rains a lot where I am. I'd spend more time cleaning than riding.

    Now and then, I do a more extensive clean. I've never hosed down my road bike, but I've used some magic unicorn bike polish stuff. Another poster here recommends Pledge. I'm going to have to try that at some point. Degreaser can get stubborn nastiness off the chain rings, cassette, etc.

  8. #8
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    pledge is great...after you wash your bike w/ soap and water. it's a wax, not really a cleaner.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  9. #9
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    Spray it down with a hose. What doesn't come off, doesn't need to come off.

  10. #10
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    When I get back from a dirty ride I set the bike up in a stand I made from 2x4's in the driveway.
    I douse the chain and cassette with a product called oil eater.
    Soap and car wash brush on the rest.
    Wait 5 min.
    Hose off with light spray.
    Now the chain and cassette are shiny looking and clean.
    When the bike dries I add some oil and I am done.
    People who spend hours with rags and toothbrushes have no life.

  11. #11
    Resident Curmudgeon
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    Dry it off with a clean rag as best as you can. Once it's dry, do this:

    I keep my bikes very clean, but I never "wash" them. If the bike is exceptionally dirty I'll take a wet or soaked rag and wipe it down. After it's been wiped down I use my secret weapon...Pledge furniture polish. If it's just dirty and dusty from riding a week or so in dry conditions, I start with the Pledge.

    When I clean my bikes I always start with the running gear. I do the chain 1st. I take a rag wet with WD40 or odorless mineral spirits, and wipe the chain down while rotating the cranks. When it's pretty clean I use "home brew" mixed 3 parts odorless min. spirits to 1 part oil. What kind of oil? Pretty much whatever I happen to have on hand. We're not lubing parts on the space shuttle y'know. Motor oil 5W-20 usually, because that's what my car takes. Using an old catsup squeeze bottle, I drizzle it on the chain, aiming for the middle where the rollers are. Then, while that's drying I'll do the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. I clean them using the odorless mineral spirits (OMS).
    Park's cog cleaning brush is good for doing the cassette. For the chain rings, I just use a rag with OMS and wipe them down while I'm turning the cranks. I do the same to the rear derailleur pulleys and any other parts of the derailleurs or brakes that are grungy. Park's brush is useful here too.

    I then remove both wheels, set one wheel flat on my work bench. Using a Scotchbrite pad soaked with Simple Green I scrub the braking surfaces of the rim clean - both sides - both wheels. I then spray the rim, spokes, and hub with my secret weapon...Pledge furniture polish. Goes on & comes off easily. Spray on - wipe off with a clean rag. I do every spoke, the entire rim and hub. When finished, I hit the braking surface of the rim lightly with the Scotchbrite pad to clean any slippery stuff from the braking surfaces. I do both wheels like this, and then set them aside.

    Next I go to work on the frame. Turning it upside down in the repair stand, I spray it with Pledge and wipe it down. Anything the Pledge won't take off gets the OMS treatment, and then gets sprayed with Pledge. I try to get every bit of dirt off that I can see. I put the rag between the brake arms; use Qtips to reach hard to get at places. I also do the bars, stem, etc., etc. I don't clean the bar tape, because I always use black. I never do anything to the seat, except to wipe it off if it needs it. I lightly spray all the pivot points on the derailleurs, pulleys, brake levers, brake arms with WD40. After that I take a piece of 60-100 grit sandpaper and lightly sand all 4 brake pads. When doing this I look carefully for grit, tiny stones, or small pieces of metal that may have become embedded in the pad. If I find any I remove them using an awl.

    By now the chain is dry enough to wipe down. I put the wheels back on the bike, and while it's still on the repair stand, I turn the cranks slowly with one hand while the chain runs through a clean rag held by my other hand. I keep turning the cranks, and the rag until no more black residue comes off on the rag.

    I'm done! If I hurry I can do this in about 30 min.

    Notice that the only bike specific thing I use, besides the repair stand, was Park's gear brush. IMO, IME bike specific chemicals, waxes, cleaners, lubes, etc. are a complete rip off - a total waste of $$$.
    Don't believe everything you think.

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