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  1. #1
    j73
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    Have you guys ever encounter this with your bottom bracket?

    I was cleaning my chain last weekend and pedal the cranks in reverse when I heard a knocking sound in every turn. I started removing the wheels, and placed the bike on a bike stand, remove the chain and remove the tension on front and rear derailleur to isolate the knocking sound. Without any load on the cranks I pedaled clockwise with minimal and occasional knocking sound. Pedaled in reverse and the knocking sound was on constantly in every rotation. So finally I narrowed down that the bottom bracket in the problem. Removed the cranks and found inside the bottom bracket non chainring side that a part of the bottom bracket shell is sticking out inside. Do this thing happened from installation? Or just from being used? This is the first time that the crankset was removed ever since I bought it, around 10000miles. The bearings are still good , a little bit of play in the drive side bearings. I planning to change BB to a Chris king $167 or Omni ceramic from eBay $78. Any suggestion which way to go, or just remove that part that sticking out the even scratch the inside of the crankset. This is a PF30, Sram BB, force cranks set. Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Have you guys ever encounter this with your bottom bracket?-c10f629e-34cb-4cd1-89c6-9da5e66aa370.jpg   Have you guys ever encounter this with your bottom bracket?-c3acd2ff-6cde-4c74-9b85-571ba3da5589.jpg   Have you guys ever encounter this with your bottom bracket?-424f326b-1d8c-4d8e-b8b9-a9a3a61194d3.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by j73 View Post
    I was cleaning my chain last weekend and pedal the cranks in reverse when I heard a knocking sound in every turn. I started removing the wheels, and placed the bike on a bike stand, remove the chain and remove the tension on front and rear derailleur to isolate the knocking sound. Without any load on the cranks I pedaled clockwise with minimal and occasional knocking sound. Pedaled in reverse and the knocking sound was on constantly in every rotation. So finally I narrowed down that the bottom bracket in the problem. Removed the cranks and found inside the bottom bracket non chainring side that a part of the bottom bracket shell is sticking out inside. Do this thing happened from installation? Or just from being used? This is the first time that the crankset was removed ever since I bought it, around 10000miles. The bearings are still good , a little bit of play in the drive side bearings. I planning to change BB to a Chris king $167 or Omni ceramic from eBay $78. Any suggestion which way to go, or just remove that part that sticking out the even scratch the inside of the crankset. This is a PF30, Sram BB, force cranks set. Thanks!
    Wow, that BB is out to lunch in less than 10K miles! PF 30s are junk, but Chris King rocks. Do it.

  3. #3
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    Can't tell much from the pictures. You need to knock the bearings and bushings out, tell us what kind of material is out of place...aluminum or steel and what bike model and year and frame material. From there we could conjecture what happened.

    10K miles is too long on bearing service. You can spend 160 bux but there are cheaper solutions out there to taming PF30.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by j73 View Post
    The bearings are still good , a little bit of play in the drive side bearings.
    If there is play, the BB is toast. No reason to spend and arm and a leg on a boutique BB. Praxis has a good reputation. You may want to do a search on those.

    PF BBs have some issues regardless. From what I gather, a lot of that has to do with them being installed correctly. I have almost 8K miles on a BB30 bike and no problems so far, but many have problems much sooner.
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  5. #5
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by j73 View Post
    Removed the cranks and found inside the bottom bracket non chainring side that a part of the bottom bracket shell is sticking out inside. Do this thing happened from installation? Or just from being used?
    It's really hard to tell from the pictures with the bottom bracket still installed. It looks to me like a piece of the plastic cover on the PF30 got torn back during installation. Not sure how that's possible. Maybe severe misalignment and beating the s#!t out of it. No way that would happen from just being used.

    Looks to me like it's this type of BB, the inner sleeve (blue) is just a spindle cover. If that's what's damaged, you could get rid of it. But since you've got bearing play, I'd just get a new BB. They're cheap, and no reason to spend $100 on one.



    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    If there is play, the BB is toast. No reason to spend and arm and a leg on a boutique BB. Praxis has a good reputation. You may want to do a search on those.
    I'm pretty sure Praxis doesn't make a PF30. Only PF30 adapters to 24mm spindles. He's got a 30mm.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    It's really hard to tell from the pictures with the bottom bracket still installed. It looks to me like a piece of the plastic cover on the PF30 got torn back during installation. Not sure how that's possible. Maybe severe misalignment and beating the s#!t out of it. No way that would happen from just being used.

    Looks to me like it's this type of BB, the inner sleeve (blue) is just a spindle cover. If that's what's damaged, you could get rid of it. But since you've got bearing play, I'd just get a new BB. They're cheap, and no reason to spend $100 on one.



    I'm pretty sure Praxis doesn't make a PF30. Only PF30 adapters to 24mm spindles. He's got a 30mm.
    Oh, so PF 30 BBs are disposable, like chains and tires? Another symptom they're under-designed. All they're good for is 10K miles?

    The old cup and cone BBs threaded into the BB shell last 30-60K if overhauled once every couple of years. I'm riding on two, one with 70K miles on it, the other with 65K miles. They're a piece of cake to adjust and never come loose or creak. Then again its steel threaded into steel, not plastic or some wimpy sleeve. They're so finely adjustable, the crank will spin freely in your hand but not flex under power. The balls and races on mine are still nice and smooth, no pits or cracks. Nothing is press fit except the BB spindles, and if you check the spindle bolts once in a while, they don't come loose either.

    The gods of lightweight abandoned that perfect scheme for a succession of schemes that were too light to hold up.

  7. #7
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    OP...don't be lazy. Post in the correct section.

    And don't waste money on even cheap ceramic bottom brackets that will likely wear out before a (cheap) good stain steel bearing bb.
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  8. #8
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    Wheels manufacturing

  9. #9
    j73
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    Thanks for all the responses, it’s a 2013 focus Cayo evo 3 bike that I purchased in 2014. I was planning to buy some bottom bracket tools to remove it but it was too expensive. Reason being I post pictures like that. I was having second thoughts in removing it by myself, and getting stuck with the tools. What If I decide to change the frameset and it is not PF30. My LBS will change the BB for $20 labor. Like what tig said, My guess it’s the spindle sleeve having poor installation, but again did not have any problems before. So I guess, Chris king is not the best bet due to price. Wil check eBay again

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    +1 for Wheels Manufacturing

    There is very little difference between most bearings. I wouldn't go bottom of the barrel cheap but you aren't getting much (if anything) for the extra price of a Chris King BB. The single most important factor is the bearings being packed with good grease. Cheap bearings use cheap grease and barely any of it for that matter.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    There is very little difference between most bearings. I wouldn't go bottom of the barrel cheap but you aren't getting much (if anything) for the extra price of a Chris King BB.
    ^This.^

    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I'm pretty sure Praxis doesn't make a PF30. Only PF30 adapters to 24mm spindles.


    I stand corrected


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  12. #12
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    Wheels Manufacturing is the answer to every bottom bracket question.

  13. #13
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    For reference I have a 2014 Focus Izalco, same BB. Never had problems with it. I installed the BB myself.

    I'd just buy a new pf30 bottom bracket. They're like 15-20 bucks on ebay for the sram or fsa ones. If you're uncomfortable with installing press fit bottom brackets have the shop do the install. 20 bucks is fair, especially because the sram force and the pf30 on these focus bikes usually requires a non drive side spacer and can be a little finicky.
    I like to ride fast.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by j73 View Post
    Thanks for all the responses, it’s a 2013 focus Cayo evo 3 bike that I purchased in 2014. I was planning to buy some bottom bracket tools to remove it but it was too expensive. Reason being I post pictures like that. I was having second thoughts in removing it by myself, and getting stuck with the tools. What If I decide to change the frameset and it is not PF30. My LBS will change the BB for $20 labor. Like what tig said, My guess it’s the spindle sleeve having poor installation, but again did not have any problems before. So I guess, Chris king is not the best bet due to price. Wil check eBay again
    Honestly, you have no idea where you are. PF30 can be knocked out with a ten cent wood dowel and hammer. Once the BB is removed you will see if you have any BB shell ID damage...only thing that matters. BB's are sacrificial. Doesn't appear to be any crank spindle damage but would take close inspection. PF30 can be pressed in with a large C clamp and two blocks of wood.

    Knowledge is power. Level of ignorance about BB's on the web is pervasive. Understandable as many aren't mechanical. If you aren't then let your bike shop do it. A simple job for anybody with basic mechanical skills.

  15. #15
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 11spd View Post
    Honestly, you have no idea where you are. PF30 can be knocked out with a ten cent wood dowel and hammer. Once the BB is removed you will see if you have any BB shell ID damage...only thing that matters. BB's are sacrificial. Doesn't appear to be any crank spindle damage but would take close inspection. PF30 can be pressed in with a large C clamp and two blocks of wood.

    Knowledge is power. Level of ignorance about BB's on the web is pervasive. Understandable as many aren't mechanical. If you aren't then let your bike shop do it. A simple job for anybody with basic mechanical skills.
    Can't even find this:

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Can't even find this:

    Components, Wrenching
    Most use a threaded rod with fender washers to draw PF30 integrated bushing/bearing halves into a PF30 shell, but I have installed them with a C clamp...one side at a time with two wood blocks.

    Same practice is effective for non integrated headsets. Here is one I pressed in....best one cup at a time using other square shoulder for perpendicularity.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Have you guys ever encounter this with your bottom bracket?-moto.jpg  

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