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  1. #1
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    Angry Help! I've stripped my crank extractor bolt . . .

    So, I'm trying to remove my ultegra cranks and before I notice any better that darned little aluminum extractor bolt has stripped and fallen out. I tried to put the bolt from the other side in but it won't go in all the way and doesn't seem to want to get a good grip. So I decided against forcing it.

    Any suggestions? I've searched the archives and notice a thread from about a month ago where Dave Hickey recommends always using a crank extractor tool. Am I too late for that? If that won't work, are there any other options?
    Last edited by Drone 5200; 07-07-2004 at 01:01 AM.

  2. #2
    B2
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    Depends on which threads failed

    Quote Originally Posted by Drone 5200
    So, I'm trying to remove my ultegra cranks and before I notice any better that darned little aluminum extractor bolt has stripped and fallen out. I tried to put the bolt from the other side in but it won't go in all the way and doesn't seem to want to get a good grip. So I decided against forcing it.

    Any suggestions? I've searched the archives and notice a thread from about a month ago where Dave Hickey recommends always using a crank extractor tool. Am I too late for that? If that won't work, are there any other options?
    Was it the threads on the outer piece in this photo or the crank bolt threads themselves? Much more likely the aluminum threads on the self-extractor (outer) piece.

    If it's the crank bolt threads that stripped, you can still use a crank puller to remove the crank, but either your BB, crank bolt or both are toast.

    If the self-extractor threads are stripped you need to determine if the extractor "bolt" threads are stripped or the threads on the crank are stripped. If it's the self-extractor bolt, then you should be able to remove the crank with a crank puller and buy another crank "self-extractor bolt". If a little of both got stripped you can probably still remove the crank with a crank puller and still use the crank, but if you do get to the point where there are no threads left on the crank itself, you're going to have to get a little creative to remove the crank.

    I partially stripped both the extractor bolt and crank threads one time (it was cross threaded by a LBS). The crank puller tool still worker fine, but I wasn't comfortable with a suspect setup. I found there was a company that sold a kit to thread the crank one "size" larger and they provided a new self-extracting crank bolt that matched. My LBS had the set up, but the cost was around $80. In the end the LBS had the crank replaced under warranty.

    Good Luck,
    Bryan
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  3. #3
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    Do it the old fashioned way...

    Quote Originally Posted by Drone 5200
    So, I'm trying to remove my ultegra cranks and before I notice any better that darned little aluminum extractor bolt has stripped and fallen out. I tried to put the bolt from the other side in but it won't go in all the way and doesn't seem to want to get a good grip. So I decided against forcing it.

    Any suggestions? I've searched the archives and notice a thread from about a month ago where Dave Hickey recommends always using a crank extractor tool. Am I too late for that? If that won't work, are there any other options?
    Get yourself a crank extractor and do it the old fashioned way. You're not the first to damage a self-extracting crank bolt. Many people still prefer to use the extractor even though the crank bolt is self-extracting.

    Here's a link to the Park Tool web site. I assume you have the splined Ultegra Crank.
    http://www.parktool.com/tools/CCP_4.shtml
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  4. #4
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    Hey, biknben, what's the diff b/w CCP-4 and CCP-2? Looks like they both do the same job?
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    Last edited by filly; 02-11-2011 at 03:52 PM.

  5. #5
    Diesel Engine
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    Try the extractor

    Best case, the aluminum 'ring' is stripped, no big deal. You can still use the extractor - make sure you use one that will work with the hollow Ultegra bb spindle or use an adaptor 'plug' that fits in the end of the spindle. If the crank threads are undamaged, you can discard the ring and just use the inner bolt (pictured below) from the self-extractor (or order a new bolt assembly)

    Worst case, you have torn out the threads from the crank - bigger deal and very possible as the torque on the ring can be pretty high even though the crank threads are more stout than the threads on the little ring. Even if there are some stripped threads, I'd still give the extractor a try. Apply grease to the crank threads and the crank puller threads and carefully engage the tool. The threads on the tool are tool steel and can clean up some of the damage in the crank if you are careful (if you are not you can really muck things up). If you get good engagement with the tool, pull the crank. If the threads are damaged to the point that the tool is not solidly engaging, don't try to pull the crank - you will likely rip out the remaining threads from the crank. Take it to a good bike shop and let them help you. It may be expensive, but sometimes that's your only recourse.

    If the threads in the crank are not damaged, do it yourself. If you're not an experienced wrench and there is damage to the crank threads, let a shop handle it (at least that's my opinion)
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    Last edited by Mike Prince; 07-07-2004 at 06:45 AM. Reason: forgot pics

  6. #6
    Carleton
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    tricks

    A key with crank extractors on cranks where the threads are potentially damaged is to get the extractor in there securely. Use a wrench to snug the extractor into the crank, and then pull the crank off. Also, if you have an extractor for square taper bb's and you don't have a cool little plug for the splined types, use a penny or a dime... it'll work just as well.

  7. #7
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    Not much...

    Quote Originally Posted by filly
    Hey, biknben, what's the diff b/w CCP-4 and CCP-2? Looks like they both do the same job?
    The head of the extractor is wider for the splined version because the the BB spindle is wider (diameter). The arm of the extractor is also longer to provide more torque to get the crank off.
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  8. #8
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    Well, I already knew this, but I suppose I should write it on the board 100 times:

    USE THE RIGHT TOOL.

    And I was trying to be so careful. I have removed the crank before without problem. Oh, well. The worst damage was done to the extractor itself. But there is some damage to the threads on the crank. I'll see how it goes and give you a report back. Thanks for the advice.

  9. #9
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    Easy!

    I'm back from the LBS. As you guys predicted, the mech was able to use the crank puller to put the threads back in place and extract the crank arm. Only took about 10 minutes. He says the threads look good enough to keep using, but he said I'd better get a crank puller next time.

    Thanks for the advice that was spot on!

  10. #10
    The web is a MUT
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    I just got one the other day

    Quote Originally Posted by biknben
    The head of the extractor is wider for the splined version because the the BB spindle is wider (diameter). The arm of the extractor is also longer to provide more torque to get the crank off.
    I just got one of those the other day. I also got a second pin with a different head diameter, the heads just unscrew making the tool good for both. Now I just have to avoid loosing the spare head.
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