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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    If you have to buy a bike with disc brakes, I would definitely get hydraulic. Hydraulic are self-adjusting after initial setup and have better modulation. Since disc brakes are very powerful, modulation is important unless you enjoy face plants.
    Have you actually seen someone do a face plant on the road?

    If I do a face plant, I doubt it is the brakes fault regardless of the type of brake

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Herbie View Post
    Have you actually seen someone do a face plant on the road?

    If I do a face plant, I doubt it is the brakes fault regardless of the type of brake
    Yes I have and I can assure you it's not pretty. Granted there are other reasons people do face plants besides brake lockup, but that is still a legitimate concern, especially among less experienced cyclists.

    I have ridden both mechanical disc and hydraulic disc bikes. I would never own a mechanical disc bike, period.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

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  3. #28
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    My last bike came with BB5s. They work better than rim brakes but need frequent (read: < 100 miles) adjustment, which I couldn't abide on a commuter. An RBR member talked me into replacing them with XTs instead of BB7s and I've never looked back.

    Here's the thing: once you get above a certain price point I'd expect hydro, not mechanical. Why put cheap brakes on a nice bike? I'd look askance at mechs on a $2100 bike.
    It's Mueller Time

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrac View Post
    My last bike came with BB5s. They work better than rim brakes but need frequent (read: < 100 miles) adjustment, which I couldn't abide on a commuter. An RBR member talked me into replacing them with XTs instead of BB7s and I've never looked back.

    Here's the thing: once you get above a certain price point I'd expect hydro, not mechanical. Why put cheap brakes on a nice bike? I'd look askance at mechs on a $2100 bike.
    There are plenty of good current rim brakes with surprisingly good modulation compared to rim brakes of yesteryear. I have never needed to re-adjust any rim brakes more often than every 500 miles.

    I have ridden multiple bikes with mechanical discs and all failed to please. I found them quite grabby and unpredictable. And <100 mile re-adjustment is a joke.

    Now I have my first hydraulic disc bike. I am actually quite impressed by the modulation and predictability or braking. It feels nearly impossible to lock these up, yet there is plenty of braking power. And hydraulic brakes are self-adjusting, so you never need to re-adjust them after initial adjustment. One important note for noobies. If you need to remove the front wheel for transport, be very careful not to let the front brake handle pull. Otherwise, the brake will re-adjust itself without a disc. Then you will get brake rub! In order to set up adjustment again, you will need something narrow to separate the calipers.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
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    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbinbi View Post
    Very happy with rim brakes. Don't carry if I have anything better. Just don't want more hassle etc. than what I have with rim brakes. Which is basically adjusting the barrel nut every once a year or 2. If mechanical disks are going to be a PITA, then maybe an upgrade is important. If not, then no issue with them to save $700

    2018 models are shipping, specialized hasn't updated their website. A 2018 elite is $600 less than 2017 model with upgrade of hydraulic and dt swiss wheels
    Have you spent any time with respectable hydro disc brakes on like hills/mountains or crappy weather?

    While I'm happy with rims in these conditions most of the times, when you really need that extra performance you get from hydro disc, it's great to have
    It's a fire road.............
    I'm on a road bike..........

    They have enough in common to blast down it.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrac View Post
    Why put cheap brakes on a nice bike? I'd look askance at mechs on a $2100 bike.
    You're right, they should cost more. I'll pass that along to TRP. If it isn't painful to buy, it can't be trusted.

  7. #32
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    I have Spyre C mechanicals and they are not a problem. They have (so far) stayed adjusted (and they do self-center ... I have QR axles and have removed a wheel and replaced it no problem.) They don't offer the kind of braking the Hydro discs on my MTB do .... they are on par with Ultegra or Tiagra brakes, except they work immediately on rainy days (which is why they are on my rain bike.)

    One big issue, for those who care, is weight. No matter how you slice it (or lie about it, which I have seen folks do) a disc set-up is going to weigh at least twice as much. Sure that might be 800 grams versus 320 or something ... but if you are buying an expensive lightweight bike which ends up weighing as as much as a cheap, heavier bike with rim brakes because the lighter bike has discs .... might give on pause.

    I am considering going with TRP HY/RDs on my next bike a century bike---designed slightly more for comfort more than performance. HY/RD (from anecdote) seem to offer all the stopping power and a little less stress than full hydro. But I am torn, because as much as I like the idea ... Shimano rim brakes are really all the brakes I need on 99.27 % of my rides---rain included.

  8. #33
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    Both of my lowracers use disc brake in front and rim brake in back. Since I'm unwilling to have mis-matched brake levers, that means mechanical disc in front. These days, the Tektro models Spyre/Spyke or the Hy/Rd would be the only mechanicals I would consider, the reason being, like hydraulics they move both pads instead of using the outside pad to push the rotor into the inside pad. Moving both pads means you can adjust them to have more pad clearance and no squealing because the inside pad is too far from the rotor. Getting them 'dialed in' is easier and they tend to stay dialed in.

    I've tried hydros and they definitely have a nicer, smoother feel. That alone would be worth something.

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