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  1. #26
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    been messing with the adjustments, tbh the rear cogs shift fine and in the front going from big cog to small cog is no problem, but going from small cog to big cog is tough.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    been messing with the adjustments, tbh the rear cogs shift fine and in the front going from big cog to small cog is no problem, but going from small cog to big cog is tough.
    first make sure the cage is lined up with the chain, not curved in or outward. Then take a screwdriver and back of the outer limit screw 1/4 turn and see if that works. If not, back off the screw another 1/4 turn.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Whoa those are pretty good deals, why are they so much cheaper?
    E-commerce versus the QBP brick&Mortar monopoly. Being online, they don't have to support it with adjustments, only warranty in the event of failure.

    Same way Amazon is driving all B&M retail out of business.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  4. #29
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    ah so basically QBP is a store branch? I was wondering because I didn't see any bikes on their website, but they do have a QBP 2 hours from me!

    Been watching how to adjust deraiullers online and tbh its very easy! I think I got my bike shifting better now, though I will take it to the store at least once just to be safe.

    I really like how bikes have a simple mechanism, it's like my escape from an over-stressed tech world. I hope electronic shifting and etc don't become standard in the future because I don't want to have another thing to keep charged!

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    ah so basically QBP is a store branch? I was wondering because I didn't see any bikes on their website, but they do have a QBP 2 hours from me!

    Been watching how to adjust deraiullers online and tbh its very easy! I think I got my bike shifting better now, though I will take it to the store at least once just to be safe.

    I really like how bikes have a simple mechanism, it's like my escape from an over-stressed tech world. I hope electronic shifting and etc don't become standard in the future because I don't want to have another thing to keep charged!
    Quality Bicycle Products....they're the single largest bike parts supplier in the USA...most shops are under their thumb WRT supply chain and pricing.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  6. #31
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredrico View Post
    first make sure the cage is lined up with the chain, not curved in or outward. Then take a screwdriver and back of the outer limit screw 1/4 turn and see if that works. If not, back off the screw another 1/4 turn.
    Much better advice would be to figure out why the shifting is working correctly first, then you don't need to blindly adjust limit screws.
    I work for some bike racers
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Much better advice would be to figure out why the shifting is working correctly first, then you don't need to blindly adjust limit screws.
    I agree, having him mess with the limit screws at this point is asking for trouble.

    May just need a simple turn of the inline barrel adjuster.

  8. #33
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by factory feel View Post
    I agree, having him mess with the limit screws at this point is asking for trouble.

    May just need a simple turn of the inline barrel adjuster.
    Kinda sounds like it's more of a lack-of-tension issue than a limit screw, right?
    I work for some bike racers
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Kinda sounds like it's more of a lack-of-tension issue than a limit screw, right?
    yup.

    And having him mess with the derailleur cage alignment, as suggested above could get him in a big mess.

    My advice, like yours, is start with the easy common sense stuff.

  10. #35
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    absolutely. nothing wrong with getting 105. that said i'd pay the few dollars extra and get ultegra at least. just looks and feels a bit nicer. but 105 will get the job done.

  11. #36
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    Unhappy BMC SL01 Road Racer - Integrated Seat Post Clamp Split, how to remedy?

    Quick Question? How to remedy a split integrated Seat Post Clamp in a BMC SL01 Road Racer frame?

    The cycle is a favourite. It rides very well. However, on a recent ride the seat post felt odd, on arriving home, horrified to see the crack. What are the possible ways to remedy?

    All advice that leads to an ability to continue to ride the bike is hugely appreciated.

    A few pictures to illustrate:

    Is it okay to get a 105 groupset on my 2018 domane al 2 (claris) ?-img_4393.jpgIs it okay to get a 105 groupset on my 2018 domane al 2 (claris) ?-img_4392.jpg
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattCole View Post
    Quick Question? How to remedy a split integrated Seat Post Clamp in a BMC SL01 Road Racer frame?

    The cycle is a favourite. It rides very well. However, on a recent ride the seat post felt odd, on arriving home, horrified to see the crack. What are the possible ways to remedy?

    All advice that leads to an ability to continue to ride the bike is hugely appreciated.

    A few pictures to illustrate:
    Mount it on the wall and buy a new frame. Can't replace the collar. Aluminum so you can't weld it without screwing up the treatment. New bike time.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  13. #38
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    Hey guys, I messed with the barrel screws for the front and rear derailer and it's shifting nice and smooth now (well not 105 smooth, but smooth enough for claris xD)

    i shall be a bike mechanic yet!

    so how often are you supposed to adjust the small screws in the front and rear derailer? or are those 'set and forget'?

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Hey guys, I messed with the barrel screws for the front and rear derailer and it's shifting nice and smooth now (well not 105 smooth, but smooth enough for claris xD)

    i shall be a bike mechanic yet!

    so how often are you supposed to adjust the small screws in the front and rear derailer? or are those 'set and forget'?
    Once you learn what they are for, it's good to check your limit screw settings by shifting into the highest or lowest speed cog while bike is in a work stand and turn the pedals while simultaneously and carefully pushing or pulling inward or outward, depending on cog and see if chain wants to climb over the cog.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Whoa those are pretty good deals, why are they so much cheaper?
    Performance Bike is a franchise and sell online rather than being a small local bike shop. They're also owned by Fuji Bicycle's parent company also owns Performance Bike. The bikes were on sale so I bought them below MSRP.

    I support my local bike shop in other ways but I'm not dropping an extra $1,000 just for the Trek name with same level of components. I prefered the ride of my Transonic over the Madone too.

  16. #41
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    Looks like BMC Frame Failure

    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Mount it on the wall and buy a new frame. Can't replace the collar. Aluminum so you can't weld it without screwing up the treatment. New bike time.
    After careful review this looks like wise advice - so sorry to see the BMC go, whoever signed off that design?

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Hey guys, I messed with the barrel screws for the front and rear derailer and it's shifting nice and smooth now (well not 105 smooth, but smooth enough for claris xD)

    i shall be a bike mechanic yet!

    so how often are you supposed to adjust the small screws in the front and rear derailer? or are those 'set and forget'?
    Remember that saying "If it aint broken, don't fix it"? Don't adjust anything until the next time it has a problem.

    For what it's worth, cables have a whole lot more to do with smooth shifting than any of your other drivetrain components. I am think if this is a Claris bike, it probably has the cheaper galvanized cables. These oxidize and become rough with time. Roughness will lead to poor shifting. Run your fingers along one of the cables. Does it feel smooth or rough? Does it leave a gray residue on your fingers or not?

    I am thinking that a set of good quality STAINLESS STEEL cables will improve you shifting. As I said before, if it's shifting OK now, then leave it alone. But if/when you have shifting problems again, upgrade your cables before you go spending gobs of $$ on a whole drivetrain upgrade.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Remember that saying "If it aint broken, don't fix it"? Don't adjust anything until the next time it has a problem.

    For what it's worth, cables have a whole lot more to do with smooth shifting than any of your other drivetrain components. I am think if this is a Claris bike, it probably has the cheaper galvanized cables. These oxidize and become rough with time. Roughness will lead to poor shifting. Run your fingers along one of the cables. Does it feel smooth or rough? Does it leave a gray residue on your fingers or not?

    I am thinking that a set of good quality STAINLESS STEEL cables will improve you shifting. As I said before, if it's shifting OK now, then leave it alone. But if/when you have shifting problems again, upgrade your cables before you go spending gobs of $$ on a whole drivetrain upgrade.
    Nice thanks, I didn't know that, but it makes sense!

  19. #44
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    For what it's worth I can't remember the last time I saw a newish bike that had galvanized shift cables. EVERY new bike comes w/ stainless cables now. As long as it's a 'real' bike from a 'real' bike shop it will have stainless cables. The odds that the OP's bike is having problems because it has non stainless cables is so slim it's not worth thinking about.
    I work for some bike racers
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    For what it's worth I can't remember the last time I saw a newish bike that had galvanized shift cables. EVERY new bike comes w/ stainless cables now. As long as it's a 'real' bike from a 'real' bike shop it will have stainless cables. The odds that the OP's bike is having problems because it has non stainless cables is so slim it's not worth thinking about.
    Thank you for saying what I was about to post. so much false info gets spread around.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Remember that saying "If it aint broken, don't fix it"? Don't adjust anything until the next time it has a problem.

    For what it's worth, cables have a whole lot more to do with smooth shifting than any of your other drivetrain components. I am think if this is a Claris bike, it probably has the cheaper galvanized cables. These oxidize and become rough with time. Roughness will lead to poor shifting. Run your fingers along one of the cables. Does it feel smooth or rough?
    Terrible advise, where do you come up with this inferior cable stuff?

    And checking your derailleur limit adjustment periodically is a good practice.

  22. #47
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    Hey guys, I went to the bike shop for my 30 day free tune up and they cleaned it up, lubed the chain, trued the wheels, adjusted everything and now it's shifting and riding silky smooth

    sometimes when going to the big chain ring from the small chain ring there is a hesitation, but they said thats more for shifting technique and shifting at the right time from the right gear and they said that the shifting resistance and everything seems normal!

  23. #48
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Hey guys, I went to the bike shop for my 30 day free tune up and they cleaned it up, lubed the chain, trued the wheels, adjusted everything and now it's shifting and riding silky smooth

    sometimes when going to the big chain ring from the small chain ring there is a hesitation, but they said thats more for shifting technique and shifting at the right time from the right gear and they said that the shifting resistance and everything seems normal!
    They're most likely right about the front derailleur shifting from the small ring to the big ring. You need to be pedaling at a decent cadence and let off the power just a bit when you make that shift.
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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    For what it's worth I can't remember the last time I saw a newish bike that had galvanized shift cables.
    I have. Trust me, I've seen it and not on only Claris bikes. I've seen 105 bikes come stock with cheap galvanized cables. My shop concurs they have seen it too on "real bikes" from brands like Trek, Cannondale and Specialized.

    As I said, the finger feel test speaks louder than words.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  25. #50
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    I have. Trust me, I've seen it and not on only Claris bikes. I've seen 105 bikes come stock with cheap galvanized cables. My shop concurs they have seen it too on "real bikes" from brands like Trek, Cannondale and Specialized.

    As I said, the finger feel test speaks louder than words.
    I can't say anything about Cannondale or Specialized but I have NEVER seen a new Trek road bike w/ galvanized cables and you know where I work.
    I work for some bike racers
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