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  1. #1
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    Is it okay to get a 105 groupset on my 2018 domane al 2 (claris) ?

    I rode a bike with 105 set and it shifted so silky smooth that my claris feels very rough to me now!

    I only bought my bike a few months ago and it would be a huge loss trying to sell or trade it in and since I am new to the hobby I don't feel comfortable dropping 2k for a bike right now anyways, but since my bike was 800$ and I could pay 400$ for a 105 set and get a silky smooth drive train with the aluminum frame, carbon fork that i already have and total would be about 1200$, that's a pretty good plan right?

  2. #2
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    I'd first explore getting what you have now tuned in better. No reason claris can't shift smooth.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    I'd first explore getting what you have now tuned in better. No reason claris can't shift smooth.
    Good idea, when I first bought the bike it shifted rough and the shop said it's because it was very new they adjusted it a bit and said after 30 riding days to bring it back and the cables and etc would break in more and the would fine tune it, so I'll do that monday!

  4. #4
    ngl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Good idea, when I first bought the bike it shifted rough and the shop said it's because it was very new they adjusted it a bit and said after 30 riding days to bring it back and the cables and etc would break in more and the would fine tune it, so I'll do that monday!
    Your shop told you wrong. "Cables and etc" don't take time to break in.

    Also, it maybe worth while having a look at this deal before investing another $400 for 5800, $200 labor, (maybe) $200 for new 11 speed wheels plus taxes. You can sell your bike to off-set some of the cost.
    Which bike would you choose between these two and why?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ngl View Post
    Your shop told you wrong. "Cables and etc" don't take time to break in.

    Also, it maybe worth while having a look at this deal before investing another $400 for 5800, $200 labor, (maybe) $200 for new 11 speed wheels plus taxes. You can sell your bike to off-set some of the cost.
    Which bike would you choose between these two and why?

    ahh, i didn't realize that 11 speed bikes need new wheels and are 200$ labor! In that case I'm better off keeping what I got! I hope they are able to fix it, what do you think is wrong? is it possible I got a defective drive train? Will trek have my back? i'm super scared now.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    I rode a bike with 105 set and it shifted so silky smooth that my claris feels very rough to me now!

    I only bought my bike a few months ago and it would be a huge loss trying to sell or trade it in and since I am new to the hobby I don't feel comfortable dropping 2k for a bike right now anyways, but since my bike was 800$ and I could pay 400$ for a 105 set and get a silky smooth drive train with the aluminum frame, carbon fork that i already have and total would be about 1200$, that's a pretty good plan right?
    Probably one slight tightening 1/16 turn (one notch) of the rear derailleur cable adjuster will fix this.

  7. #7
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Good idea, when I first bought the bike it shifted rough and the shop said it's because it was very new they adjusted it a bit and said after 30 riding days to bring it back and the cables and etc would break in more and the would fine tune it, so I'll do that monday!
    No, if the bike was built and adjusted properly it shouldn't need any 'break-in'. I've got 15 years experience working for pro teams...can you imagine if the racers I worked for had to stop in the middle of a race for me to adjust their bikes? It's entirely possible and should be expected that every bike works from new and doesn't need to be adjusted after any given period of time. That's an excuse that comes from lazy and/or poorly trained mechanics. Or a sales guy
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    No, if the bike was built and adjusted properly it shouldn't need any 'break-in'. I've got 15 years experience working for pro teams...can you imagine if the racers I worked for had to stop in the middle of a race for me to adjust their bikes? It's entirely possible and should be expected that every bike works from new and doesn't need to be adjusted after any given period of time. That's an excuse that comes from lazy and/or poorly trained mechanics. Or a sales guy
    Dang it! I hope they can fix it monday, they said if the drive train is defective the warranty will fix it, but the shop is 1 hour away and I have a feeling they will make it very difficult for me!!!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Dang it! I hope they can fix it monday, they said if the drive train is defective the warranty will fix it, but the shop is 1 hour away and I have a feeling they will make it very difficult for me!!!
    Calm down. It's highly unlikely that there is anything actually wrong w/ your bike. It's highly likely that it just needs to be adjusted properly. I have to un-**** new bikes all the time that weren't set up correctly from the beginning.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    No, if the bike was built and adjusted properly it shouldn't need any 'break-in'. I've got 15 years experience working for pro teams...can you imagine if the racers I worked for had to stop in the middle of a race for me to adjust their bikes? It's entirely possible and should be expected that every bike works from new and doesn't need to be adjusted after any given period of time. That's an excuse that comes from lazy and/or poorly trained mechanics. Or a sales guy
    Why do you think my bike came like this? Is it because it's a trek or is it because I got a claris?

    edit:

    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Calm down. It's highly unlikely that there is anything actually wrong w/ your bike. It's highly likely that it just needs to be adjusted properly. I have to un-**** new bikes all the time that weren't set up correctly from the beginning.
    ah okay, thanks


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Why do you think my bike came like this? Is it because it's a trek or is it because I got a claris?
    Jesus, read my (and tlg's) posts. Your bike was most likely not adjusted correctly from the beginning and it just needs that to be done. How could it have anything to do w/ it being a Trek? The derailleurs and shifters don't care what kind of frame they're bolted on to. Claris will work just fine as long as it's installed and adjusted properly.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Jesus, read my (and tlg's) posts. Your bike was most likely not adjusted correctly from the beginning and it just needs that to be done. How could it have anything to do w/ it being a Trek? The derailleurs and shifters don't care what kind of frame they're bolted on to. Claris will work just fine as long as it's installed and adjusted properly.
    Right on, hopefully they'll adjust the front derailleur and it will be fine. The gears in the back shift alright (still not smooth as a 105 though :P), but the chain rings are where I have trouble. Going from 34 to 50 I feel resistance in the shifter and there's some hesitation and I have to hold the shifting lever down for a few seconds to get it to shift.

  13. #13
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    I think it's because it's a Trek, they are known for warranty issues!


































































































































    j/k

  14. #14
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by factory feel View Post
    Probably one slight tightening 1/16 turn (one notch) of the rear derailleur cable adjuster will fix this.
    That small of an adjustment won't really do anything. With Shimano you can probably be 'off' 1/4 to 1/2 turn and it will still work pretty well. The adjustment increments on Di2 are 1/12 of a shift for example. A 'notch' on a mechanical derailleur is 1/4 turn.
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  15. #15
    ngl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    but the shop is 1 hour away
    It's a shame to travel 1 hour each way every time you need something adjusted on your bike. Do you have another shop closer to where you live? If so, I'd take it there. They will charge you but, it won't be very much than the cost of the gas driving to where you purchased your bike.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    That small of an adjustment won't really do anything. With Shimano you can probably be 'off' 1/4 to 1/2 turn and it will still work pretty well. The adjustment increments on Di2 are 1/12 of a shift for example. A 'notch' on a mechanical derailleur is 1/4 turn.
    yea you're right on the notch ratio, i just didn't want him to go too far and make it worse the other way.

  17. #17
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    Hopefully it will be okay, been reading a lot about this online and it seems like it's an adjustment issue. They said they will adjust it for free so may as well get it done this time. Maybe in the future I can learn how to do it myself.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Hopefully it will be okay, been reading a lot about this online and it seems like it's an adjustment issue. They said they will adjust it for free so may as well get it done this time. Maybe in the future I can learn how to do it myself.
    If it's between adjusting it yourself or driving an hour to the LBS, I'd learn how to do it yourself.

    It is not complicated in the least and once you learn it you'll use that knowledge occasionally.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by factory feel View Post
    If it's between adjusting it yourself or driving an hour to the LBS, I'd learn how to do it yourself.

    It is not complicated in the least and once you learn it you'll use that knowledge occasionally.
    Yeah i've been watching videos, doesn't seem hard at all. Do you know how to adjust the cable tension in the shifter for a road bike? Can't seem to find how to do that anywhere, I notice my left shifter (front) Is quite tight and I'd like to loosen it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by factory feel View Post
    yea you're right on the notch ratio, i just didn't want him to go too far and make it worse the other way.
    Good call
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  21. #21
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    Yeah i've been watching videos, doesn't seem hard at all. Do you know how to adjust the cable tension in the shifter for a road bike? Can't seem to find how to do that anywhere, I notice my left shifter (front) Is quite tight and I'd like to loosen it.
    There is no adjustment for this, that's why you can't find it. If it seems like there is too much tension the only thing you can do is replace the cable and housing.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sproiteboike View Post
    I rode a bike with 105 set and it shifted so silky smooth that my claris feels very rough to me now!

    I only bought my bike a few months ago and it would be a huge loss trying to sell or trade it in and since I am new to the hobby I don't feel comfortable dropping 2k for a bike right now anyways, but since my bike was 800$ and I could pay 400$ for a 105 set and get a silky smooth drive train with the aluminum frame, carbon fork that i already have and total would be about 1200$, that's a pretty good plan right?
    +1 to what everyone else said. I'd just like to add that $2k for a 105 equipped aluminum frame road bike is nothing short of price gouging. I just bought a 2018 Fuji Transonic 2.3 with Ultegra (minus the crank) and very smooth riding carbon frame for $2,300. My Wife's 2018 Fuji SL disc with full Ultegra and a carbon frame was $2,700.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    +1 to what everyone else said. I'd just like to add that $2k for a 105 equipped aluminum frame road bike is nothing short of price gouging. I just bought a 2018 Fuji Transonic 2.3 with Ultegra (minus the crank) and very smooth riding carbon frame for $2,300. My Wife's 2018 Fuji SL disc with full Ultegra and a carbon frame was $2,700.
    Salsa sells alu-frame bikes that only include SRAM Apex for $1,999. Seriously. QBP is selling a bike with a alu frameset and entry-level SRAM for $2K. The carbon frame Warbird with entry-level SRAM is $2,500. WTF. The $2K-$2,500 mark for 105 is sadly normal on floor bikes now.


    I was perusing a good LBS (great staff, decent selection) locally this winter for a ride-unveil party....something caught my attention. Not a single bike on the floor had anything over 105. And the 105 had list for $2,500. Only Ultegra bike they even had on the floor was a $5,000 electric moped made by Giant, that I'm not actually sure is legal for them to sell (state law states 20MPH under motor is the max before something is legally a "moped"--and that Giant can do 28MPH according to Giant).
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Salsa sells alu-frame bikes that only include SRAM Apex for $1,999. Seriously. QBP is selling a bike with a alu frameset and entry-level SRAM for $2K. The carbon frame Warbird with entry-level SRAM is $2,500. WTF. The $2K-$2,500 mark for 105 is sadly normal on floor bikes now.


    I was perusing a good LBS (great staff, decent selection) locally this winter for a ride-unveil party....something caught my attention. Not a single bike on the floor had anything over 105. And the 105 had list for $2,500. Only Ultegra bike they even had on the floor was a $5,000 electric moped made by Giant, that I'm not actually sure is legal for them to sell (state law states 20MPH under motor is the max before something is legally a "moped"--and that Giant can do 28MPH according to Giant).
    Quote Originally Posted by Fajita Dave View Post
    +1 to what everyone else said. I'd just like to add that $2k for a 105 equipped aluminum frame road bike is nothing short of price gouging. I just bought a 2018 Fuji Transonic 2.3 with Ultegra (minus the crank) and very smooth riding carbon frame for $2,300. My Wife's 2018 Fuji SL disc with full Ultegra and a carbon frame was $2,700.
    Whoa those are pretty good deals, why are they so much cheaper?

  25. #25
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    how are cannondale bikes? I see they got 105 for 1500$, but they have disc brakes. Problem is though my closest cannondale dealer is 3 hours away and if that had problems, i'd be in a whole new mess lol

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