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  1. #1
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    Overhauling Squeaky Hydraulics

    Hello guys, I'm wondering if you could help me.

    I am in the process of overhauling my permanently squealing hydraulic brakes, apart from the levers (RS505). That includes the rotors, pads, the calipers and even the hose.

    Old setup:
    - Caliper: RS785
    - Hose: BH59

    New system:
    - Caliper: R8070
    - Hose: BH90

    I have internal cables, so am probably going to use something like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZaGL83RMFI (with e.g.: https://www.parktool.com/product/int...ing-kit-ir-1-2)

    According to the Shimano Compatibility Chart: 2018-2019 SHIMANO Product Information Web and this thread: Heads up for new Ultegra users - Weight Weenies, ST-RS505/R8070 should work just fine using a BH90 straight-straight kit.

    My questions:
    1) Does a BH90-SB/-SBS kit imply BH90-SS (+extra parts)?
    2) Is there anything else I should be aware of?
    Last edited by nimetonmaili; 04-29-2018 at 03:45 AM.

  2. #2
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    Forgot to mention, I've replaced both the pads and rotors before, rebled the system a couple of times, and the squeak keeps coming back again and again (dirt layer on top of pads), so I can only assume it's the calipers.


    The hose change (BH59 -> BH90) is only because the new calipers (R8070) depend on it.

  3. #3
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    On automobiles, brake squeal is generally reduced or limited by using anti-squeal grease on the backside of the pads and sometimes by beveling the contact edges of the braking material.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  4. #4
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    Looking at your previous posts on this topic, may I suggest you step away from the tools and take your poor bike to a good reputable bike shop to have this problem repaired?

    I know you like to play with tools, but unless you enjoy endless frustration or just like to troll, a bike shop will be a much better route for you.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  5. #5
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    @Lombard, at this point I've already tried everything so overhauling the calipers seems most likely. I don't see a reason for a mechanic?

  6. #6
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimetonmaili View Post
    @Lombard, at this point I've already tried everything so overhauling the calipers seems most likely. I don't see a reason for a mechanic?
    1) Post mechanical questions in 'components/wrenching'
    2) You're asking for advice and then not taking it. Obviously you're not getting the job done, take the bike to a proper mechanic.
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  7. #7
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    @cxwrench, thank you but I will overhaul the calipers, the hose, pads and rotors, and then come back.
    Last edited by nimetonmaili; 04-29-2018 at 06:56 AM.

  8. #8
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Which rotors/pads are you using?
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  9. #9
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    Shimano XT RT86 as rotors, and J04C pads.

  10. #10
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Great rotors, I'd try the resin pads. J02A.
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  11. #11
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    They came originally with the bike, but became contaminated to the point of ditching them.

    I doubt it's the pads, if a fresh new pair of J04C gets constantly contaminated as well. Can't really be the rotors, as I have two pairs of those as well.

    So.. I would rather get the R8070. But certainly with another go of resin pads. They were virtually silent initially.


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimetonmaili View Post
    They came originally with the bike, but became contaminated to the point of ditching them.

    I doubt it's the pads, if a fresh new pair of J04C gets constantly contaminated as well. Can't really be the rotors, as I have two pairs of those as well.

    So.. I would rather get the R8070. But certainly with another go of resin pads. They were virtually silent initially.

    If pads are getting contaminated....then something is wrong in your current install.

    It is like having a flat tire, so going shopping for a new set of wheels.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  13. #13
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    @Marc, I don't understand, if you were constantly having flats with different tyres, tubes and terrain, then why would the normal install of tubes be at fault, if that's what you mean?

    This issue anyway is probably down to faulty calipers.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    1) Post mechanical questions in 'components/wrenching'
    2) You're asking for advice and then not taking it. Obviously you're not getting the job done, take the bike to a proper mechanic.
    I'm dissapointed by your response.

    It sounds to me like he may have exhausted the "taking it to a proper mechanic" route.

    Disc brake noise is an extremely complex issue since many never experience it and others never seem to be able to kill it. I think seeking advice from those with success is a reasonable route.

    Further, experience here on RBR tells be that if you are without a list of good/possible solutions, he is unlikely to find a mechanic who has one.

    So, don't make me stop this car-----shut up and answer your brother's question!

  15. #15
    Adorable Furry Hombre
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimetonmaili View Post
    @Marc, I don't understand, if you were constantly having flats with different tyres, tubes and terrain, then why would the normal install of tubes be at fault, if that's what you mean?

    This issue anyway is probably down to faulty calipers.
    Do you want to spend $150USD+shipping on parts and $$ or hours on labor/install...for something that could be as simple/stupid as a $0.05USD leaky o-ring? What if you spend all the money...and you have the same symptoms? Then you've not only not properly diagnosed a problem...you've spent lots of money and time to not remedy it. You're jumping from not knowing what the problem actually is--to "solutions" that you don't know the problem of.


    That was and is our point and the point of any and all analogies/metaphors/comparisons etc.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  16. #16
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    @Marc, yes, that can absolutely be, but what I would prefer to do is try out and finish what I started. I'm using my own $ so I don't see the problem?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimetonmaili View Post
    @Marc, yes, that can absolutely be, but what I would prefer to do is try out and finish what I started. I'm using my own $ so I don't see the problem?
    Well...you already have failed at fixing the problem...and now you're simply throwing money at it hoping it fixes it.

    Emphasis added:

    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Do you want to spend $150USD+shipping on parts and $$ or hours on labor/install...for something that could be as simple/stupid as a $0.05USD leaky o-ring? What if you spend all the money...and you have the same symptoms? Then you've not only not properly diagnosed a problem...you've spent lots of money and time to not remedy it. You're jumping from not knowing what the problem actually is--to "solutions" that you don't know the problem of.


    That was and is our point and the point of any and all analogies/metaphors/comparisons etc.

    Go forth and stimulate the economy. It is indeed your money. And next week after installing new hardware, and still having the same issues, you'll get a helping of "We Told You So"s.


    We try to be a bit responsible and get people to do things cheaply and in the last time/effort...than resorting to throwing money blindly at the problem, and hoping something sticks.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Great rotors, I'd try the resin pads. J02A.
    They are 'supposed to be' quieter but they don't stop as well IMHO, I wouldn't use them. He should be able to get the bike to not squeal with the J04c pads.
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  19. #19
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    I still don't see the reason to get upset?

    I mean I told you already, and you're just repeating what you've told me...

    Again, what's the problem? If overhauling the calipers, hoses, pads and rotors doesn't fix it, then in fact I'd wanna see it.


  20. #20
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SwiftSolo View Post
    I'm dissapointed by your response.

    It sounds to me like he may have exhausted the "taking it to a proper mechanic" route.

    Disc brake noise is an extremely complex issue since many never experience it and others never seem to be able to kill it. I think seeking advice from those with success is a reasonable route.

    Further, experience here on RBR tells be that if you are without a list of good/possible solutions, he is unlikely to find a mechanic who has one.

    So, don't make me stop this car-----shut up and answer your brother's question!
    Ok...it sounds like a contamination issue. I've heard that Shimano calipers can have problems w/ mineral oil weeping past the piston o-rings. Worth a try to replace them. Srode doesn't like the resin pads but that's what comes OEM in just about every Shimano caliper. It's pretty much all we use at the shop, they stop fine and they're easier on the rotors.
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  21. #21
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    When you say the pads become contaminated, what are they being contaminated with?
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  22. #22
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    I'm not quite sure what it is? It's just a black dirt kind of layer.

    Sort of like that: http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/b...brake_pads.jpg

    'Sanding' doesn't help either.

  23. #23
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  24. #24
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimetonmaili View Post
    I'm not quite sure what it is? It's just a black dirt kind of layer.

    Sort of like that: http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/b...brake_pads.jpg

    'Sanding' doesn't help either.
    Generally once a pad is contaminated w/ any kind of oil it's done. Sanding won't help, the pads need to be replaced. The rotors need to be absolutely spotless. You need to make sure there isn't any remaining contaminant anywhere near the rear wheel.

    How do you lubricate your chain and with what?
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  25. #25
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    Pre-clean the rotors with rubbing alochol.

    then, try sanding the pads a bit on a flat surface and after that wash the pads by scrubbing them together against each other with some dawn soap.

    If that doesn't work then try to heat the pads real good with a plumbers torch, then after they cool do the dawn soap washing again.

    If that doesn't work then buy some new pads.

    Of course, make sure nothing is leaking onto the pads before you do any of this.

    And handle them with care after procedures are complete.

    If you are washing your bicycle and using some type of detergent, reconsider this method.


    good luck

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