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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Migen21 View Post
    what?
    Have you seen any of the Aliens movies? Acid body fluids

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Way, way over the top. You need to take a break now.
    i took a break. you now brought me back in. but cxwrench had already tried the shaming with another poster. i ain't falling for that dumb ****.
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  3. #78
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    Waxahachie, Texas
    Biciclette Gios

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  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Given that bar tape averages about $25.00
    $25 for bar tape? Must be some damn fine bar tape.

    Anyway, I have Fizik soft-touch on one bike and $5 Deda cork (or whatever it's actually made of) on the other. The Fizik is pretty nice, but for $5, the Deda is great. I've used it several times, and it's durable, comfy, easy to install/remove, and comes in a wide variety of colors.

    Count me in the camp of having corroded aluminum bars. I've never had one fail, but have replaced a couple due to pitting. For me, the worst case was on an MTB with aluminum-sleeved lock-on grips + sweat reacting with the bar, but my old road bars were a little eaten up around the levers. A friend of mine had a bar snap while riding, but nothing bad happened, luckily. The end just came off in his hand.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pisgah2000 View Post
    $25 for bar tape? Must be some damn fine bar tape.

    Anyway, I have Fizik soft-touch on one bike and $5 Deda cork (or whatever it's actually made of) on the other. The Fizik is pretty nice, but for $5, the Deda is great. I've used it several times, and it's durable, comfy, easy to install/remove, and comes in a wide variety of colors.

    Count me in the camp of having corroded aluminum bars. I've never had one fail, but have replaced a couple due to pitting. For me, the worst case was on an MTB with aluminum-sleeved lock-on grips + sweat reacting with the bar, but my old road bars were a little eaten up around the levers. A friend of mine had a bar snap while riding, but nothing bad happened, luckily. The end just came off in his hand.
    I'll have to try Deda tape next. I don't mind $20 for Fizik tape and it is comfortable but it's slick when it's wet. The Deda Geco and Elementi looks pretty nice. My sweat isn't to potent and I'm using carbon bars so corrosion isn't a concern.

  6. #81
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    And once the bars are wrapped with cloth tape there are those that will shellac the tape.

    The Velo ORANGE Blog: Shellac and Bar Tape, a Guide
    Too old to ride plastic

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfrancois View Post
    i took a break. you now brought me back in. but cxwrench had already tried the shaming with another poster. i ain't falling for that dumb ****.
    Seriously, we were having a simple discussion about bar tape, when he hijacked the thread and went all "drama queen" on us, with about the most tentative connection you could make to some previously unmentioned fatal accident. Talk about hyperbole!

    Oh well, thankfully we have an "ignore poster" function here, so I don't have to get bothered by browbeater dipwads.........
    I'm upping my standards;
    Up yours!

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    And once the bars are wrapped with cloth tape there are those that will shellac the tape.

    The Velo ORANGE Blog: Shellac and Bar Tape, a Guide
    Now you are talking "old school"! I remember shellacking customer's bars back in the mid 70's. Tried it on my own bike, but didn't care for the 'tacky' feeling.
    I'm upping my standards;
    Up yours!

  9. #84
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    If your hands sweat that much, I'd recommend giving up biking until you see a doctor.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirt farmer View Post
    If your hands sweat that much, I'd recommend giving up biking until you see a doctor.
    I am not sure it can be fixed. I thought this was an interesting topic so I did a few searches and there are some research papers on the topic of corrosive sweat. It appears to be somewhat of a concern for people, that work with with electronic assembly because that impacts profits. These folks seemed to be called "rusters" in the industry. From the limited research I saw, pH was not a factor but the concentration of chlorides (like sodium) was. If I was corroding bars like some of the photos in this thread I think I would consider CF bars

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by factory feel View Post
    lizard skin tape is crap for wear.
    Agreed. I put lizard skin on my bars 1000 miles ago, it's peeling off similar to what is shown in the other lizard skin photos. Very disappointing. It came highly recommended to me. Very grippy, even when wet, but it's peeling and looks bad.
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  12. #87
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    Seems like a no-brainer to me, salt can be corrosive. If you live near the coast or high-humidity areas where your bartape can stay wet for most of a 3 or 4-hour ride and probably stays damp for a few hours afterwards it doesn't seem inconceivable that alloy can corrode, especially where you nicked the anodized finish cutting away the electirical or bar tape from the previous time you changed tape or cables.

    Maybe it's more of an issue for racers or performance-oriented riders that pull up on the bars hard during sprints or steep climbs, probably not a problem on a MUT.
    In reference to the Assault on Mt Mitchell...
    Quote Originally Posted by merckx56
    The easier solution is to find a biker bar in Spartanburg the night before, go in and pick a fight. The ass-whipping you'll get will be far less painful than the one Mitchell will give you the next day!

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug B View Post
    Agreed. I put lizard skin on my bars 1000 miles ago, it's peeling off similar to what is shown in the other lizard skin photos. Very disappointing. It came highly recommended to me. Very grippy, even when wet, but it's peeling and looks bad.
    They sure do advertise a lot during this year's TdF. Must have some depth in their pocket...

  14. #89
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    I've been using Zipp CX Service Course tape for a year or so. It's comfy and has some surface that makes it grip well.

    I live in south Louisiana where it's hot and humid. I sweat a lot. Recently replaced the steel shifter clamps with some Ti DuraAce ones because of corrosion. So yeah, it' worth it to replace bar tape 2-3 times a year depending on how much you ride and if you ride year round.
    My blog about bicycling: http://offthebackweb.wordpress.com/

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvber View Post
    They sure do advertise a lot during this year's TdF. Must have some depth in their pocket...
    Well since TdF riders' bikes only need to last one ride and they get their bikes for free, I really doubt tape wear is a concern for them, much less handlebar corrosion.

    The riders get their product endorsements, rec riders watch and think "The TdF riders use this, so it must be good". There's one born every minute.
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  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvber View Post
    They sure do advertise a lot during this year's TdF. Must have some depth in their pocket...
    When your tape wears out so fast you get to sell more.
    Life is short... enjoy the ride.

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradkay View Post
    When your tape wears out so fast you get to sell more.
    Ding ding ding!

  18. #93
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    use a torque wrench

  19. #94
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    Good vid.
    Never heard of using T-9 before but it sounds interesting. I'd like to see someone use T-9 on one side and nothing on the other and see how the sides compare after a winter's worth of trainer sessions.
    I hate the trainer so you won't be seeing me volunteer.
    In reference to the Assault on Mt Mitchell...
    Quote Originally Posted by merckx56
    The easier solution is to find a biker bar in Spartanburg the night before, go in and pick a fight. The ass-whipping you'll get will be far less painful than the one Mitchell will give you the next day!

  20. #95
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    Been using T9 for this and other stuff (my trainer bike is basically coated with the stuff) for several years. I always treat my water bottle bolts and bosses, chain keeper bolts, and stem hardware too.

    I also use it on my shop tools to coat things like tablesaw and bandsaw table tops to prevent surface rust and promote smooth movement. Hand tools get a bath in it every six months or so too.

    Stuff is great.

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