ok, you know the turbo attaches to the wheel spindle. do you remove the cap on the right hand side of the bike (if you're looking from behind), or leave it on. I removed it the first time I used my turbo, but someone said that you're meant tot leave it on.
You know the caliber poised on the first grid sliding armature? There's a three-digit setting there, where the post and the armature meet. Now, when the system was installed, the angle of cross-slide was put at a maximum setting of 1. If you reset it at the three-mark like it says in the assembly instructions, I think it will solve any clogging problems in the machine.
ok, you know the turbo attaches to the wheel spindle. do you remove the cap on the right hand side of the bike (if you're looking from behind), or leave it on. I removed it the first time I used my turbo, but someone said that you're meant tot leave it on.
Are you talking about the quick release to get the wheel on and off? If so, leave the cap (nut) on. It doesn't hurt to take it off, but it's not necessary. (You may have to loosen it, though).
You know the caliber poised on the first grid sliding armature? There's a three-digit setting there, where the post and the armature meet. Now, when the system was installed, the angle of cross-slide was put at a maximum setting of 1. If you reset it at the three-mark like it says in the assembly instructions, I think it will solve any clogging problems in the machine.
Me, too! Everyone knows it's a six position calibration. You have to use both sides! Duh!
Either that, or someone saw a newbie using the wrong nomenclature and decided to give his chain just a bit of a tug. I'm guessing that since the OP mentioned an axle and a 'cap' that could either come off or be left on that he was talking about a quick release, but it's just a guess.
If you want to get higher PSI (boost), you're going to need a fuel-cut defender and some kind of boost control system, such as any of the offerings by HKS, Greddy, or ApexI. Once everything's all plumbed, it's just a matter of taking it to the dyno, doing a couple of baseline runs and then figuring out where along the RPM curve that you need to back off on the turbo.
Some rides that come with a turbo from the factory use a recirculating blow-off valve. Don't try to impress your buddies and swap it for a loud one that doesn't recirculate, or else it won't run right.
From ukwill's ID, I suspect he is from the UK. Maybe the word "turbo" has a different meaning over there, sort of like tyre, colour, boot, & water closet. How about it, will? Is "turbo" a UK term for axle, spindle, or quick-release?
As for the rest of you, stop being ugly Americans & elitist bike snobs - give a UK newb a break.
What was the big saying from SAAB about their "turbocharger reusing exhaust to create higher horsepower" during the 2008 TdF? I can't ****ing believe I forgot their big spiel about it already...
What was the big saying from SAAB about their "turbocharger reusing exhaust to create higher horsepower" during the 2008 TdF? I can't ****ing believe I forgot their big spiel about it already...
I loved the turbo in my old car... I could get 33 mile per gallon... or 6 miles per gallon.. I could also beat the snot out of any of my friends cars.. Including the kids with 6-cylinder mustangs (not the 8's or other fast cars).
From ukwill's ID, I suspect he is from the UK. Maybe the word "turbo" has a different meaning over there, sort of like tyre, colour, boot, & water closet. How about it, will? Is "turbo" a UK term for axle, spindle, or quick-release?
As for the rest of you, stop being ugly Americans & elitist bike snobs - give a UK newb a break.
I'm pretty sure that the turbo he's referring to would be the Elite Turbo trainer. I haven't used that brand, but my guess is to leave the quick release nut on unless it is a type that isn't round (this includes many high-end QR sets: Bontrager Ti, etc.). If the existing qr skewer has a nut that doesn't fit into the trainer either a) trade out the existing nut with an old one from the parts bin, or b) buy a cheap steel rear quick release skewer and use this on the trainer.
Hope that helps.:thumbsup:
I'm pretty sure that the turbo he's referring to would be the Elite Turbo trainer. I haven't used that brand, but my guess is to leave the quick release nut on unless it is a type that isn't round (this includes many high-end QR sets: Bontrager Ti, etc.). If the existing qr skewer has a nut that doesn't fit into the trainer either a) trade out the existing nut with an old one from the parts bin, or b) buy a cheap steel rear quick release skewer and use this on the trainer.
Hope that helps.:thumbsup:
I think you hit it. And you're right (and I can see his frustration) QR nuts are different, and don't always fit trainers. If the trainer didn't come with its own quick release then he should change it if he can't get a good fit. The cap he's talking about may be a cap on the trainer put there to fit different QR nuts. If that's the case you either leave it on or take it off depending on the size/shape of the quick release on the bike, using whichever gives the tightest fit.
I think you hit it. And you're right (and I can see his frustration) QR nuts are different, and don't always fit trainers. If the trainer didn't come with its own quick release then he should change it if he can't get a good fit. The cap he's talking about may be a cap on the trainer put there to fit different QR nuts. If that's the case you either leave it on or take it off depending on the size/shape of the quick release on the bike, using whichever gives the tightest fit.
All credit to EpicXT :thumbsup: All the information was there. He put the puzzle pieces together. When the OP talked about the 'damn elite manual,' I took it at face value- a frustrated man complaining about a manual he thought talking over the head of noobs, and when he mentioned a 'turbo' I didn't even think it might be a proper noun that wasn't capitalized. It might have been a bit easier if the OP started with, 'I have an Elite Turbo trainer,' and 'damn Elite manual,' but then we all type quickly when we're mad. I hope the smart Alec comments didn't drive him away for good.
I seemed to remember that on the other side of the pond they call trainers "turbos" sometimes. And I know that I have to use a different skewer (actually I use a whole different wheel) to use my Kurt Kinetic trainer to warm up at cx races.
And yes, the internetz can be a cruel (if funny) place sometimes.
Cheers!
You need to respect the torque rigidity rating procedure in conjunction with the reverse-axial deplanaration frustum. Otherwise, the turbo will never build up proper boost.
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