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Thread: C1 build advice

  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    C1 build advice

    UPS just dropped off this frameset which I think had something to do with me placing an impulsive online order last week.



    I know a lot of people don't like the aesthetics of these frames and I have to admit after I ordered it I saw one built up next to a Colnago CLX and I thought the Colnago looked much nicer. Nevertheless I still have plans to build, ride and race it.

    If anyone who is riding one of these had some build suggestions please let me know. Going to try to be as aero and light as possible without being overindulgent in the WW/$$ category. Current plan is:

    Shifters, cassette: red
    FD, RD: force
    Bars: zipp vuka or slc
    Calipers: planet x
    Crank: quarq
    Wheels: ??

    I'll update with a decent shot once completed...

  2. #2
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    I'm all too familiar with this problem. I keep on getting delivery after delivery. Go figure.

    The front derailleur cable will rub on the derailleur spring (Sram on the C series). I have a piece of cable liner there, which, so far, makes it a non-issue. I say "so far" because I have only had it out on two 20 mile rides so far, but it is shifting very smoothly...... and with a red titanium front der. I put on Reynolds Assaults and all red group, so it's just about as light and aero as it can be. Mine's a C2 which is a little less stiff and probably a little heavier??? I haven't weighed it but I would guess it's probably around 17lbs.

    I wouldn't say I've been jumping up and down or standing on my head over the bike, but I certainly don't regret my impulse buy.

  3. #3
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    I just finished building one. I have had a 2010 C3, 2011 and 2012 C1
    Don't be like me and dropped one of the blue tubes into the frame after installing the crank. After hours trying to fish something through I took off the fork and then it was easy.

    I used SRAM force but Di2 is probably the best to go. Eventually I will go DI2. The Vuka bars is also optimized for Di2 because it is very hard to put 2 mech cables through it.

    The force FD was making my chain drop on the frame. I replaced the FD with Dura Ace 7800, it is at least 500% better.

    As far as weight. I weight EVERYTHING it came with (headset, frame, seatpost, fork) it was about 4 lbs for the 2011 and 4.3 lbs for the 2012. (used the hook scale so not so accurate, or could be my memory mishap) This is probably a manufacturing discrepancy or maybe lay up change. I thought the matt coat will be lighter but it is actually fairly thick.

    In my mind the 2012 feels stiffer than the 2011, with a more jarring ride. Just my opinion and might explain the 1/4 pound differece.

    Anyway, my bike is at 16.58 lbs without WW parts at all, 85/58 wheels, 160g saddle, 120g skewer, which is ok but not that light. The full length cable housing adds back the weight, I just used bulk jagwire cables since I needed so much of it.

    I have to say the C3 is awesome. It weights just a bit more but you get to run lighter cables. On bumpy roads C1's internal cable is noisy and the C3 external is silent. Riding a century and such it is more comfortable, not as stiff when you are out of the saddle but you can run over things on the road, and not feel them at all.
    Last edited by PoorCyclist; 02-28-2012 at 11:59 AM.

  4. #4
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    Had to have a little fun with the vinyl cutter while waiting on parts. 12.4 lbs sans crank, bb, chain, tape and with temp bars doesn't seem too bad.


  5. #5
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    Initial build is completed. Still some temp parts and minor fitting to be done.

    A hair over 16 lbs as pictured.


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