Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: flooring advice

  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,431

    flooring advice

    Our family room is currently carpeted and is well overdue for a change. I would like to go with some type of wood or laminate flooring. The floor underneath is concrete slab. I have been putting this off because I am terrified about all the options and costs. I want something that is super durable. We have a 130lb Newfoundland dog and although she is pretty mellow she still has nails and shes beefy. The family room also has the door that leads to the backyard so there a lot of crud being dragged in. The last thing I want is to spend a lot of money and have it all scratched up within a year. What advice does the lounge have?

  2. #2
    pmf
    pmf is online now
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,385
    Porcelain tile and area rugs. The stuff is indestructible. They make some that looks like wood. I kind of like the look. You have the perfect sub-floor for it.

    My first choice would be hardwood like oak. You can refinish it once it gets worn. Can't do that with cheap laminate, which also looks cheap. I had a 190 lbs Great Dane. He could scratch an oak floor with his claws. I had oak floors and rugs -- a big brown rug in the middle of the room. It was a carpet remnant. They're cheap and replaceable.

  3. #3
    We have met the enemy...
    Reputation: paredown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    7,865
    Generally for wood on concrete you should do a moisture test first, and probably use and engineered product. There is also a special glue that works brilliantly, but it is sticky as hell.

    Porcelain or slate--thinset that stuff down and you are good for as long as you can stand to look at it.

    Or you could go crazy and do a combo, like I did in one house--slate around the perimeter running outside to match, and the center area an engineered wood--kinda like a big wood carpet. Came out nice...
    "There are two novels that can change a bookish fourteen-year olds life: The Lord of the Rings and Atlas Shrugged. One is a childish fantasy that often engenders a lifelong obsession with its unbelievable heroes, leading to an emotionally stunted, socially crippled adulthood, unable to deal with the real world. The other, of course, involves orcs."
    John Rogers

  4. #4
    Frog Whisperer
    Reputation: Touch0Gray's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    39,001
    I highly recommend 3/4 in solid hardwood, tongue and grooved. It can be installed over concrete in several ways. You can't beat it for durability and refinish-ability. Price is competitive with GOOD laminate. It is available pre-finished as well.
    Of course I'm sure...that doesn't mean I'm right.....

    "There's no sense being stupid unless you show it."

    "that was like trying to teach a goldfish how to play basketball over the phone."

  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,431
    Quote Originally Posted by Touch0Gray View Post
    I highly recommend 3/4 in solid hardwood, tongue and grooved. It can be installed over concrete in several ways. You can't beat it for durability and refinish-ability. Price is competitive with GOOD laminate. It is available pre-finished as well.
    Touch, I was under the impression (not sure from where) that the engineered stuff was harder than wood. The fact that wood can be refinished is good but that in itself seems like a messy job. Its interesting but the entire rest of the house except for the family room was built with hardwood flooring (house built 1966)

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,350
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Touch, I was under the impression (not sure from where) that the engineered stuff was harder than wood. The fact that wood can be refinished is good but that in itself seems like a messy job. Its interesting but the entire rest of the house except for the family room was built with hardwood flooring (house built 1966)

    Depends on the product. Keep in mind, laminate and engineered products cannot be refinished. When they are scratched or damaged, they need to be replaced.

    With 3/4" solid hardware, you can get 2 or 3 sanding and refinishing. There is also Bamboo floor, which is solid and hard, but cannot be refinished, but will stand up pretty well.

    We have a Great Dane and a Dalmatian that likes to run in place when its dinner time.. the floors have held up well (the Bamboo).

    As for putting it down, we did ours on concrete as well. We put down a vapor barrier down, then 3/4 OSB, then 3/4 solid hardwood (for downstairs, bamboo is upstairs). since we tiled (with slate) the adjoining room and hallway, we did not really have too much of a lip, so the regular 3/4 transition strip worked fine.

  7. #7
    Frog Whisperer
    Reputation: Touch0Gray's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    39,001
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Touch, I was under the impression (not sure from where) that the engineered stuff was harder than wood. The fact that wood can be refinished is good but that in itself seems like a messy job. Its interesting but the entire rest of the house except for the family room was built with hardwood flooring (house built 1966)
    the HARD part is the synthetic finish that they put on at the factory, the prefinished solid wood finished is just as hard. I also believe that there are a few high end laminate that can be sanded and refinished once, depending how deep you sand. BUT a site installed finish will never be as hard as a factory finish (they use a ceramic I believe)
    Of course I'm sure...that doesn't mean I'm right.....

    "There's no sense being stupid unless you show it."

    "that was like trying to teach a goldfish how to play basketball over the phone."

  8. #8
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    677
    If you want to go unfinished hardwood, I would recommend 3/4 white oak rift and quartered. This stuff is about the hardest and most durable wood you can buy. And then, a polyurethane oil based poly finish, 3 coats. Duraseal, probably the best or Fabulon. This is the best finished in place top layer you can buy. Recommendations?
    Which are the best brands of Polyurethane for floors?

    Just put this in my kitchen, after ripping out an engineered wood floor that could not be refinished.
    I used water based poly in my dining room / foyer, it does not hold up the same way as oil based finishes. On the other hand, oil based finishes need ventilation for about 6 hours after each coat.
    I did my entire upstairs in pre-finished 3/4 hardwood, maple and cherry. That's OK, but was more demanding on wood dimensions to eliminate spacing gaps. Which is why I went with finished in place for the kitchen.

    BTW, unfinished white oak R/Q in new england only cost 4.69 / sq. ft. for 4" wide boards, which seemed to me a decent deal over the more common red oak 2 1/4 for maybe $ 1 less. The installation and finishing cost was about double that for an old school local guy.

  9. #9
    Sooper Dooper Moderator!
    Reputation: il sogno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    19,216
    If you don't want it to get scratched up, go with laminate.

  10. #10
    Master debator.
    Reputation: nOOky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    8,175
    We went with LVT on most of our downstairs rooms. We have 4 dogs, scratching isn't the problem, their traction is. It looks alright if you do a good job, and it's waterproof which was important. Honestly it's easy to put down, and relatively cheap so we can redo it in 10 years if we are tired of it. No underlayment is needed, and you can actually take it up and redo it if you botch it the first time (I am a perfectionist lol)

    I love hardwood floors, but refinishing them myself is something I'll never do again. Of course it depends on the look you want and how much money you have to spend.
    "I felt bad because I couldn't wheelie; until I met a man with no bicycle"

  11. #11
    gazing from the shadows
    Reputation: QuiQuaeQuod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    25,111
    Quote Originally Posted by ljvb View Post
    ...and engineered products cannot be refinished.
    Depends on the thickness of the top layer. Mine has sufficient hardwood on the top to be refinished once for sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Touch0Gray View Post
    the HARD part is the synthetic finish that they put on at the factory, the prefinished solid wood finished is just as hard. I also believe that there are a few high end laminate that can be sanded and refinished once, depending how deep you sand. BUT a site installed finish will never be as hard as a factory finish (they use a ceramic I believe)
    Yep, the finish. Mine does have a ceramic in it, of some sort, and really wears well.

    If I had it to do over, I would have done pre-finished hardwood. But I am quite happy with the engineered stuff I did use.
    .
    Stout beers under trees, please.

  12. #12
    NSFW
    Reputation: Ullr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    1,125
    My wife seems to like hardwood.

  13. #13
    We have met the enemy...
    Reputation: paredown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    7,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Z'mer View Post
    If you want to go unfinished hardwood, I would recommend 3/4 white oak rift and quartered. This stuff is about the hardest and most durable wood you can buy. And then, a polyurethane oil based poly finish, 3 coats. Duraseal, probably the best or Fabulon. This is the best finished in place top layer you can buy. Recommendations?
    Which are the best brands of Polyurethane for floors?

    Just put this in my kitchen, after ripping out an engineered wood floor that could not be refinished.
    I used water based poly in my dining room / foyer, it does not hold up the same way as oil based finishes. On the other hand, oil based finishes need ventilation for about 6 hours after each coat.
    I did my entire upstairs in pre-finished 3/4 hardwood, maple and cherry. That's OK, but was more demanding on wood dimensions to eliminate spacing gaps. Which is why I went with finished in place for the kitchen.

    BTW, unfinished white oak R/Q in new england only cost 4.69 / sq. ft. for 4" wide boards, which seemed to me a decent deal over the more common red oak 2 1/4 for maybe $ 1 less. The installation and finishing cost was about double that for an old school local guy.
    I'd be interested in knowing where/from whom you are buying white oak flooring. The main section of our house was done in white oak, and I refinished most of the floors, but left one of the halls, because it got the **** sanded out of it, and it splintered along some of the t&gs. I did a stain and seal while I thought about it, but I need to make a decision soon about what to do about it.

    (I originally thought I would patch, but I used up most of what I salvaged fixing the main part of the floor--in part because it is very hard to take up 50 year old flooring without it splitting!)
    "There are two novels that can change a bookish fourteen-year olds life: The Lord of the Rings and Atlas Shrugged. One is a childish fantasy that often engenders a lifelong obsession with its unbelievable heroes, leading to an emotionally stunted, socially crippled adulthood, unable to deal with the real world. The other, of course, involves orcs."
    John Rogers

  14. #14
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    677
    Quote Originally Posted by paredown View Post
    I'd be interested in knowing where/from whom you are buying white oak flooring.
    We bought it from Wood Pro, a company based in MA that mostly services New England, but apparently also operates as CWF in the Southeast.
    Suppliers – Wood Pro Inc
    The local "showroom" was a warehouse in an industrial park, with an order desk and basically a tiny samples area. The focus is not on retail, but on servicing contractors. High quality and low prices. They are also sell prefinished 3/4 and engineered wood floors.
    here's our re-modeled kitchen with 4" white oak rift/quartered, natural stain, 3 coats Fabulon
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails flooring advice-white_r_q.jpg  

  15. #15
    Not Banned
    Reputation: atpjunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    48,508
    Quote Originally Posted by Z'mer View Post
    We bought it from Wood Pro, a company based in MA that mostly services New England, but apparently also operates as CWF in the Southeast.
    Suppliers – Wood Pro Inc
    The local "showroom" was a warehouse in an industrial park, with an order desk and basically a tiny samples area. The focus is not on retail, but on servicing contractors. High quality and low prices. They are also sell prefinished 3/4 and engineered wood floors.
    here's our re-modeled kitchen with 4" white oak rift/quartered, natural stain, 3 coats Fabulon
    my house is 94 years old. It still has the original 2" Oak floors and 4" fir in the kitchen.
    We've had to replace 1 or 2 boards that were damaged and refinished in 2008, that was about it
    one nation, under surveillance with liberty and justice for few

    still not figgering on biggering

  16. #16
    Opus was just napping
    Reputation: thatsmybush's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    17,876
    We installed bamboo flooring in our house (minus the bathrooms) have been very happy with the look and our dog has been unable to scratch it.

    Plus the environment. If this area ever goes hipster and we are selling, I am leaning heavily on the go green of bamboo.
    In the time of battle you don't rise to the occasion you resort to the level of your conditioning...

  17. #17
    We have met the enemy...
    Reputation: paredown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    7,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Z'mer View Post
    We bought it from Wood Pro, a company based in MA that mostly services New England, but apparently also operates as CWF in the Southeast.
    Suppliers – Wood Pro Inc
    The local "showroom" was a warehouse in an industrial park, with an order desk and basically a tiny samples area. The focus is not on retail, but on servicing contractors. High quality and low prices. They are also sell prefinished 3/4 and engineered wood floors.
    here's our re-modeled kitchen with 4" white oak rift/quartered, natural stain, 3 coats Fabulon
    That looks very nice! Looks like their closest outlet to me is in Albany--which is not that close to me. I may check in by phone anyways...
    "There are two novels that can change a bookish fourteen-year olds life: The Lord of the Rings and Atlas Shrugged. One is a childish fantasy that often engenders a lifelong obsession with its unbelievable heroes, leading to an emotionally stunted, socially crippled adulthood, unable to deal with the real world. The other, of course, involves orcs."
    John Rogers

  18. #18
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    677
    Quote Originally Posted by paredown View Post
    That looks very nice! Looks like their closest outlet to me is in Albany--which is not that close to me. I may check in by phone anyways...
    Thanks, we really like it. My wife has allergies, so we (she?) made it our (my?) mission to remove all carpeting from our house, starting with the bedrooms.
    We had engineered 3/8" white oak in the kitchen before, but after 20-25 years the top 1/8 layer started de-laminating and curling up at the edges. There is no way sanding can fix that.

    I looked on the Wood Pro receipt, and it said "Oak Crest White Oak". A google search found the supplier. Perhaps they have a distributor closer to you, or they will sell to you direct? I was very satisfied with their products.
    https://www.oakcrestlumber.com/copy-of-solid-red-oak

  19. #19
    We have met the enemy...
    Reputation: paredown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    7,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Z'mer View Post
    Thanks, we really like it. My wife has allergies, so we (she?) made it our (my?) mission to remove all carpeting from our house, starting with the bedrooms.
    We had engineered 3/8" white oak in the kitchen before, but after 20-25 years the top 1/8 layer started de-laminating and curling up at the edges. There is no way sanding can fix that.

    I looked on the Wood Pro receipt, and it said "Oak Crest White Oak". A google search found the supplier. Perhaps they have a distributor closer to you, or they will sell to you direct? I was very satisfied with their products.
    https://www.oakcrestlumber.com/copy-of-solid-red-oak
    I banged through the links to a couple of their suppliers and guessed that Oakcrest was the one. I'm as much interested in a 'contractor' style store as the wood, but that's a good idea. Thanks!

    I've got a large master bedroom that I stripped and salvaged the wide plank so I could repair the 'great room' area, and a hall that I need to redo. What's here is 8" 'peg' style, but the areas that I'm planning on redoing could be a different width.
    "There are two novels that can change a bookish fourteen-year olds life: The Lord of the Rings and Atlas Shrugged. One is a childish fantasy that often engenders a lifelong obsession with its unbelievable heroes, leading to an emotionally stunted, socially crippled adulthood, unable to deal with the real world. The other, of course, involves orcs."
    John Rogers

  20. #20
    Darling of The Lounge
    Reputation: Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    3,821
    Pergo laminate flooring has worked well in our home. Our bulldog was a shuffler and the sound of his nails scrapping the floor as he walked had me concerned at first. Try as I might to see, there were no marks or scratches to be found.

Similar Threads

  1. Hiring a (flooring) Professional! Advice.
    By Argentius in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 37
    Last Post: 11-23-2011, 06:05 AM
  2. Replies: 11
    Last Post: 07-02-2007, 08:03 AM
  3. Flooring.
    By Brick Tamland in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 03-28-2007, 03:13 PM
  4. Cork Flooring
    By Chain in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-11-2007, 06:40 AM
  5. Anyone have radiant heat flooring?
    By vonteity in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 07-07-2006, 11:47 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •