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Thread: Hustle

  1. #1
    S2H
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    Hustle

    I kind of like the Civilian Hustle that Competitive Cyclist is carrying. Need moar 20% off coupon.

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    BikesDirect has better deals.
    * posted by Creakybot 2013 all rights reserved.
    * not actually waterproof.

  3. #3
    S2H
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    There's a thread about BD around here somewhere...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotty2Hotty View Post
    There's a thread about BD around here somewhere...
    go chinese carbon ebay.

    seriously. if you go steel, get the raleigh furley or roper. one is ss one is geared. you want a cross bike, i tell ya.

    if uncle fuzzy had any singular cross bikes in for the price of a swift i would be all about that.
    I don't normally "do people." - Dr. Roebuck

  5. #5
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    support your LBS.
    * posted by Creakybot 2013 all rights reserved.
    * not actually waterproof.

  6. #6
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    Hustle?

    We'll be back soon, there will be more of us, and next time we won't be dropping leaflets.

    “The problem with quotes on the internet is that it’s hard to verify their authenticity” – Abraham Lincoln

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotty2Hotty View Post
    I kind of like the Civilian Hustle that Competitive Cyclist is carrying. Need moar 20% off coupon.
    All City Nature Boy. Then ride the piss out of stuff like Des Plains River trail. Shoot, you could do a bunch of Palos with that too -- running big rubber.
    Formerly Gripped. Now new and improved.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wtfbbq View Post
    All City Nature Boy. Then ride the piss out of stuff like Des Plains River trail. Shoot, you could do a bunch of Palos with that too -- running big rubber.
    i do like that all city nature boy for a ss/fixie.

    and my college nickname was big rubber.
    I don't normally "do people." - Dr. Roebuck

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by weltyed View Post
    i do like that all city nature boy for a ss/fixie.

    and my college nickname was big rubber.
    I race SS cyclocross and I keep considering that bike. However, I consider BB30, 135mm rear spacing, and disc brakes. Oh, and a bottom bracket drop around 65-70mm.

    And before you chime in, I know that sounds like the Specialized Crux disc.

    Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk
    Formerly Gripped. Now new and improved.

  10. #10
    S2H
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    I'm moving in a few weeks to a place 1.8 miles from my office. I'm buying this bike. BAM!

  11. #11
    S2H
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    This bike is going to pay for itself in like five months because I won't be using the train. I can't afford to not buy this. It will literally make me money.

  12. #12
    S2H
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    And now it's $450.

    So which color?

  13. #13
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    Which colour bikes get stolen least where you live? That is the one to get.
    There ain't no sanity clause... (Chico Marx)

    I accidentally..a burrito. (Old Fuji)

    Norman Wisdom, Johnny, Joey, Dee Dee, good times... (Phil Oakey)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    And now it's $450.

    So which color?
    Do you wear the same colour suit to work every day?

    Get both! Problem solved!

    PS - based on the pictures at the top of the CC page, you may want to check the dish on the rear wheel.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    And now it's $450.

    So which color?
    It's a hi ten frame, not even cromo. Do you really want to go that low on the frame quality?

    As for color, rattle can it black. Badly. That's the best thing to do for a commute bike. Well, second best, a brush is better. Think ugly. Uglify the thing.
    .
    Stout beers under trees, please.

  16. #16
    S2H
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    I'm signing the least today at 4pm on that apartment. New bike FTW!!!

  17. #17
    S2H
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    Would someone please tell me how these adjustment pins work?

    I've never owned a fixie...


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    Would someone please tell me how these adjustment pins work?

    I've never owned a fixie...

    Loosen the axle nut, tension the chain with the screws/pins (turn both sides the same number of turns, always, to keep the wheel straight), tighten axle nut.

    The screws/pins adjust the tension in the chain, the nut holds things in place while riding.
    .
    Stout beers under trees, please.

  19. #19
    S2H
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuiQuaeQuod View Post
    Loosen the axle nut, tension the chain with the screws/pins (turn both sides the same number of turns, always, to keep the wheel straight), tighten axle nut.

    The screws/pins adjust the tension in the chain, the nut holds things in place while riding.
    So if you didn't have the pins, you'd have to loosen one bolt at a time and walk the wheel back and forth in the dropouts, right?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    So if you didn't have the pins, you'd have to loosen one bolt at a time and walk the wheel back and forth in the dropouts, right?
    Without the pins, no matter how you set things up, you are likely to pull the wheel out of place while riding. The chain side will creep forward.

    But yes, you can just loosen the wheel, stick it in place, then crank the nuts down really hard. That will work for a while. Longer if you have weak legs.

    Go read Sheldon.


    Fixed Gear Bicycles for the Road

    When your install the rear wheel on a fixed-gear bicycle -- or any bicycle which has only a chainwheel and sprocket, no additional pulleys --, there are basically three things you need to adjust simultaneously:

    The wheel needs to be straight.

    This basically means that the tire needs to be centered between the frame's chainstays. If it is properly dished, and you get it centered between the chainstays, it is properly aligned.
    The chain tension needs to be correct. (See previous section )
    The axle nuts or quick release skewer need to be tight.

    Note: if you have a nutted axle, it is vitally important that the threads be properly lubricated with grease or oil. You should also have grease or oil on the contact surface where the axle nut presses against the washer that contacts the frame.

    Some folks who are used to derailer bikes find wheel installation frustrating, especially with a nutted hub. This is usually because they don't know the technique of "walking" the wheel back and forth in the fork ends.

    Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and tightening the axle nuts. They don't need to be super tight at this stage, but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel alignment.

    Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is correctly aligned. Loosen one of the axle nuts and push the tire to the side so that the loose side of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the axle nut you loosened.

    Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer centered between the chainstays. Loosen the other axle nut and re-center the wheel in the frame. This will actually tighten the chain a little bit more.

    The key is to keep one or the other of the axle nuts tight at all times, and "walk" the wheel forward and back.

    This takes a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn't really hard as long as you keep one side secured at all times.
    .
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  21. #21
    S2H
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuiQuaeQuod View Post
    Without the pins, no matter how you set things up, you are likely to pull the wheel out of place while riding. The chain side will creep forward.
    I'm probably putting 20 miles per week on this bike, max. Plus I got weak legs. Probably won't have to adjust it a lot...

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    I'm probably putting 20 miles per week on this bike, max. Plus I got weak legs. Probably won't have to adjust it a lot...
    If you have the pins in place, you won't have to adjust it at all for a very long time. Without the pins, you will. Plus with the pins changing a flat is super easy, no need to readjust the chain tension or make sure the wheel is straight.
    .
    Stout beers under trees, please.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by weltyed View Post
    go chinese carbon ebay.

    seriously. if you go steel, get the raleigh furley or roper. one is ss one is geared. you want a cross bike, i tell ya.

    if uncle fuzzy had any singular cross bikes in for the price of a swift i would be all about that.
    i too lust after singulars. would take a baby blue swift in a heartbeat....if i had the funds. would go with as much ano orange stuff as i could, a la gulf livery.

    then again, it does have a set screw ebb....
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  24. #24
    Maximum Gluteus
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    Quote Originally Posted by S2H View Post
    I kind of like the Civilian Hustle that Competitive Cyclist is carrying. Need moar 20% off coupon.
    I'd pass. It has a nice orange paint job, but (1) the frame and fork are hi-ten steel, which is crap for a bike that costs more than $69.95, and (2) you are trolling the bargain bin of no-name components. I guarantee that the seat will chap your ass, and the rims will look like taco shells in less than two weeks. You will soon hate this bike.

    Bicycle Times this month has a good article on low dollar urban bikes (singles and fixies) - it gives you a sense of what is out there. The Raleighs are sweet, For $50 more than the laughably low-spec Civilian, you can get a much better bike from Fuji...

    http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/declaration

    http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/feather#
    Yet another cycling blog...updated whenever.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregory Taylor View Post
    I'd pass. It has a nice orange paint job, but (1) the frame and fork are hi-ten steel, ..

    I resisted the urge to refer to it as gas pipe. But only because it is not straight gauge.

    I wouldn't ride it myself, much less buy it. But it will do the job he wants, and if he likes it he will ride it, so I don't feel the need to organize an intervention or anything.
    .
    Stout beers under trees, please.

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