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  1. #51
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    the seatpost clamp issue is unacceptable for such an expensive new bike. Have BD send you a new clamp asap, you aren't the only one with this problem

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonB176 View Post
    What I thought at first was a great fit, is perhaps not so much so and may be on the slightly too big size as I initially feared before ordering the bike. I still have tweaking to do though and can't fully judge an overly impression of the bike until I've had several problem-free rides.
    Keep the reports coming! And don't forget -- you can always return the bike within 30 days if you're not comfortable with the fit and get another size. Don't force yourself to accommodate the bike; it should accommodate you.

  3. #53
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    Sizing

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim52 View Post
    You'll love this bike! I do! And I'm 5' 9", and the 53 fits me great!
    What is your inseam? I am 5'8.5" with a roughly 31" inseam, 32" with shoes on. When I emailed BD they recommended the 51". My current bike is a Giant TCR with TT 55.5cm. This is slightly longer than the 53" BD frame. My only concern is the "measly" 1" clearance I will have with the 53" if I go against their recs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summit123 View Post
    What is your inseam? I am 5'8.5" with a roughly 31" inseam, 32" with shoes on. When I emailed BD they recommended the 51". My current bike is a Giant TCR with TT 55.5cm. This is slightly longer than the 53" BD frame. My only concern is the "measly" 1" clearance I will have with the 53" if I go against their recs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
    Make sure your inseam is 31, not roughly 31. First put on the clothes and shoes you would wear when riding, then have someone help you measure your inseam by jamming a book as hard as you can up against your crotch (just kidding about the hard as you can thing!) then measure from the top of the book to the floor. Take this measurement 3 times by replacing the book and measuring to make sure you didn't make a mistake. Your looking at getting as close as you can with a 1 inch stand over between the top tube and your crotch for a standard "classic" style frame, or about 2 inches for a compact (sloping) style frame.

    The stand over height of the 51 is 29.9"; the 53 is 30.6; and the 56 is 31.7 (I'm assuming you're looking at the road not the cross which is different). So actually either one would fit, but if you're going to feel a bit crunched up on the 51 then get the 53, or if you think you're going to be too stretched out on the 53 then get the 51.

    Once you have the stand over height correct the rest of the fitting problems like reach and saddle height and position can be changed either by moving the parts to get them to fit or replacing a part to get it to fit.

    What is it you like or dislike about the 55.5 Giant? Is the frame to tall? How's the reach? If the reach is great then measure the top tube length and see how that corresponds with the length of the top tube on their size spec chart for the 51 and the 53. If your current bike is too long then figure how much shorter in length you would like a frame to be then try to match that with either the 51 or 53. You're looking at almost 1 1/2 inch difference in reach from the 51 to the 53 because the 51 is 21.25" and the 53 is 21.65"

    Some aggressive riders like a slightly smaller then the idea frame, but for long mile comfort you should get a bike that fits as close as you can get it.

  5. #55
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    I did the measurement like Froze said, and it was 32.5 with shoes on. BD also recommended the 51, I went with the 53, and I'm happy. There were no fit issues when I brought it to my LBS to be fitted.

    BTW, I LOVE THIS BIKE!!

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by froze View Post
    Make sure your inseam is 31, not roughly 31. First put on the clothes and shoes you would wear when riding, then have someone help you measure your inseam by jamming a book as hard as you can up against your crotch (just kidding about the hard as you can thing!) then measure from the top of the book to the floor. Take this measurement 3 times by replacing the book and measuring to make sure you didn't make a mistake. Your looking at getting as close as you can with a 1 inch stand over between the top tube and your crotch for a standard "classic" style frame, or about 2 inches for a compact (sloping) style frame.

    The stand over height of the 51 is 29.9"; the 53 is 30.6; and the 56 is 31.7 (I'm assuming you're looking at the road not the cross which is different). So actually either one would fit, but if you're going to feel a bit crunched up on the 51 then get the 53, or if you think you're going to be too stretched out on the 53 then get the 51.

    Once you have the stand over height correct the rest of the fitting problems like reach and saddle height and position can be changed either by moving the parts to get them to fit or replacing a part to get it to fit.

    What is it you like or dislike about the 55.5 Giant? Is the frame to tall? How's the reach? If the reach is great then measure the top tube length and see how that corresponds with the length of the top tube on their size spec chart for the 51 and the 53. If your current bike is too long then figure how much shorter in length you would like a frame to be then try to match that with either the 51 or 53. You're looking at almost 1 1/2 inch difference in reach from the 51 to the 53 because the 51 is 21.25" and the 53 is 21.65"

    Some aggressive riders like a slightly smaller then the idea frame, but for long mile comfort you should get a bike that fits as close as you can get it.
    There is nothing wrong with my Giant. I actually love it a lot. Fast, stiff, responsive. All this talk about the sweet ride of titanium has made me wanting to get one. Plus my stand up bike rack holds 2 bikes so I didn't want to let that go to waste!

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnbiker View Post
    the seatpost clamp issue is unacceptable for such an expensive new bike. Have BD send you a new clamp asap, you aren't the only one with this problem
    Soon after the two unfortunate rides with my Motobecane, I switched to my beater bike for the winter. Only today did I decide to try it again. 3 miles in, I yet AGAIN had a problem with the seat lowering itself. I kept having to stop every 5 miles to raise it. After my last ride when I broke the bolt, I was afraid to try tightening it too much.

    After my third tightening, I noticed that the clamp part seemed to be a little too high up so it was partially on the seat post rather than the solid part of the frame. I tried pushing it down further and tightening it again. It seemed to hold better but the position was too high because I had been purposely putting it too high to begin because of how quickly it was slipping down. I stopped after another 10 miles of this and lowered it to the right position. I think it only slipped a tiny bit for the remainder of the ride. I retightened when I got home so we'll see what the next ride brings.

    I'm just really frustrated that there would be this much of an issue with a brand new seatpost set-up. I know it's been a few months now since I bought the bike but it was only my third ride today due to all the issues. If this latest effort doesn't work, I plan on contacting Bikes Direct and see what they'll do for me. What they gave me is unacceptable and hopefully they'll want to correct it.

    It was still hard to accurately gauge how much I like the bike because I was so distracted by the seat problems but I think I can safely say I like it. It is very light and responsive. I also like the power transfer when standing going up hills. I plan to wait to make my full analysis once I've had several rides that are problem-free.

  8. #58
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    double clamp


  9. #59
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    Seat Post Clamp

    Hi Jason,

    I've been riding my MB Le Champ Ti SL for abojut a month after putting it together. I had a similar issue with the seat post slipping down after about 18 miles or so. Because the seat post is aluminum, I felt it would be OK to tighten past the 5Nm indicated torque. What I found was that after each ride, I had to re-tighten the seat post clamp. Finally I reassembled it with the blue Locktite on the threads. I've had no slipping since.

    I'm convinced that vibration and perhaps the design of the clamp was making the binder bolt "back out" a bit. Resulting in clamp loosening. If you haven't already, try the Loctite, it might just be the answer.

    Paul

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonB176 View Post
    Soon after the two unfortunate rides with my Motobecane, I switched to my beater bike for the winter. Only today did I decide to try it again. 3 miles in, I yet AGAIN had a problem with the seat lowering itself. I kept having to stop every 5 miles to raise it. After my last ride when I broke the bolt, I was afraid to try tightening it too much.

    After my third tightening, I noticed that the clamp part seemed to be a little too high up so it was partially on the seat post rather than the solid part of the frame. I tried pushing it down further and tightening it again. It seemed to hold better but the position was too high because I had been purposely putting it too high to begin because of how quickly it was slipping down. I stopped after another 10 miles of this and lowered it to the right position. I think it only slipped a tiny bit for the remainder of the ride. I retightened when I got home so we'll see what the next ride brings.

    I'm just really frustrated that there would be this much of an issue with a brand new seatpost set-up. I know it's been a few months now since I bought the bike but it was only my third ride today due to all the issues. If this latest effort doesn't work, I plan on contacting Bikes Direct and see what they'll do for me. What they gave me is unacceptable and hopefully they'll want to correct it.

    It was still hard to accurately gauge how much I like the bike because I was so distracted by the seat problems but I think I can safely say I like it. It is very light and responsive. I also like the power transfer when standing going up hills. I plan to wait to make my full analysis once I've had several rides that are problem-free.

  10. #60
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    Other comments on the Le Champ SL Ti

    I might as well add that I looked at many options before purchasing this bike, and I admit I'm very happy with it. It's a great ride, looks great and have no regrets about not buying something carbon. Mine came stock with a standard 53/39 double which I changed out for a 50/34 compact - much better for my 55 yr young legs.

    Having a longish torso, the frame geometry was a good fit too. I'm 5'8", 165 LB, 31 IN inseam and went w/ the 53 cm.

    The ride is very responsive and light, yet compliant on rough roads. Bike was very stable on a 40+ mph descent. Getting the shimano 105 pedals included was not a bad deal either.

    Paul

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulg View Post
    Hi Jason,

    I've been riding my MB Le Champ Ti SL for abojut a month after putting it together. I had a similar issue with the seat post slipping down after about 18 miles or so. Because the seat post is aluminum, I felt it would be OK to tighten past the 5Nm indicated torque. What I found was that after each ride, I had to re-tighten the seat post clamp. Finally I reassembled it with the blue Locktite on the threads. I've had no slipping since.

    I'm convinced that vibration and perhaps the design of the clamp was making the binder bolt "back out" a bit. Resulting in clamp loosening. If you haven't already, try the Loctite, it might just be the answer.

    Paul
    You should send your information regarding your problem you encountered with the seat post to Bike Direct, maybe a future production of those bikes the problem can be fixed. But I'm not sure if your problem is unique because a friend of mine has the MB Le Champion Team TI model and he has not had any issues with his, and the clamp design looks the same on all their road bike TI models.

  12. #62
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    I had a slipping seatpost too with my Ti BD bike. .

    I used carbon fiber paste and it fixed the problem. It's a paste that has small sand-like particles that help grip the seat tube and seat post.

  13. #63
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    What is the weight? Where was it made?
    -Tedd

    True knowledge exists in knowing that you know nothing.
    -Socrates

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo View Post
    I had a slipping seatpost too with my Ti BD bike. .

    I used carbon fiber paste and it fixed the problem. It's a paste that has small sand-like particles that help grip the seat tube and seat post.
    Interesting, like hopefully Paulg will do, you should consider notifying BD about the problem. I'm not sure if TI frames and aluminum post are subject to this or not, I know carbon frames with carbon posts are.

    Also you TI owners, I read this somewhere once about TI which is really cool. With titanium bikes, if you get a scratch on the frame, you can easily remove it with some steel wool. Simply run the steel wool over the scratch in the direction of the brushed finish, not in the direction of the scratch or against the direction of the brush finish, do this until it disappears and then wipe the area with a dry cloth. This works best with brushed finish titanium. If you have polished finish titanium it will no longer have that high polished look, you would need to run a polisher over the area to bring back the luster. Problem areas for this scratch removal process will obviously be where any decals are.

  15. #65
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    I think steel wool would create even more scratches because it's very course. I've read that certain grades of Scotch Brite pads will work in that manner.

  16. #66
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    I don't necessarily think my seatpost was slipping, but yesterday morning I tried to raise the saddle on my Century Ti (with stock BD seatpost clamp) and I stripped the bolt. I've never done that before on any seatpost clamp. Admittedly, I wasn't using a torque wrench, and almost certainly exceeded the torque spec, but it was pretty irritating. I bought a Salsa clamp from a local bike shop and replaced the BD clamp with no problems. I mean, I get it, I paid less than $1k for a titanium frame, but still, it seems like they could put a stronger seatpost clamp on it.

  17. #67
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    I hope I dont have issues when I receive my newly ordered ti inferno 1 more post then I can submit a new thread

  18. #68
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    This seat post issue is NOT uncommon with the BD Ti offerings. I'd say out of all the posts I've read about them, this is the biggest complaint, which is easily fixed. I have read a few stories of BD sending new clamps, though if memory serves me right, they're just replacements of the same clamps. Though minor, it's very frustrating on a new bike, no matter how good the "deal" was.

  19. #69
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    ramkitty - what size did you get? (hey, just trying to help you get that post count up!)

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhotoJoe View Post
    This seat post issue is NOT uncommon with the BD Ti offerings. I'd say out of all the posts I've read about them, this is the biggest complaint, which is easily fixed. I have read a few stories of BD sending new clamps, though if memory serves me right, they're just replacements of the same clamps. Though minor, it's very frustrating on a new bike, no matter how good the "deal" was.
    I've heard this happening a lot from low cost carbon fiber bikes to very expensive carbon bikes too, so I don't think price is the issue, I think engineering is the issue., which seems to be and issue with a lot of stuff made today. Fortunately the fix is easy as you've said, both with these Ti bikes as well as with the CF bikes..

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo View Post
    I think steel wool would create even more scratches because it's very course. I've read that certain grades of Scotch Brite pads will work in that manner.
    I kind of like your idea of the Brite pad better, but the article I read did say steel wool. Again only to be use d on brushed TI not polished. Again though, don't be scrubbing the decals with Scotch Brite either.

  22. #72
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    Thanks for the advice and experiences concerning seatposts with Motobecane bikes. Because I seemed to have success with my final tightening on my last ride, I'm going to try it again today before exploring other options.

  23. #73
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    yes at 5 now..I got a 48 because I was recommended a small frame I had a bike fit at a local shop with computers, video, power, etc pretty cool really and I was told to look at 51 or 51 in cervello, cannondale and spec and xref with the ti le champ and found the 48 close. I am a little worried that it is on the smaller side but I hated stretching out when I was told to try a 54 locally by another shop.

    I am 5'6+ but stocky at 180lbs.

  24. #74
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    I'm 5' 7"- 8" and I had a 48cm Ti Le Champion. It fits really nice for me. I'm sure it'll be fine for you.

  25. #75
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    At Last!

    The seat held for my 35 mile ride today! I made a scratch mark on the post to gauge it and it might have slipped a microscopic amount but I'm not sure of it. In any case, it didn't negatively affect the ride. For the first time I was able to relax, enjoy my new bike and analyze its performance.

    I really love this bike! Firstly, I definitely got the right size with the 53 rather than the 51. I like the fit and seem to be able to generate good power with my spin on the pedals. The bike is so light that it took a little getting used to as far as the way it handled but I'm pretty much there now. I feel confident to stand and hammer at fast speeds even on busy roads.

    I've heard of the expression of the bike behaving like it's on rails and now I know fully what that really means. I picked a hilly route today which included a descent at over 40MPH and the bike held perfectly with no shaking or even extra vibration. It had some twisty descents too and it cornered like a dream. My 2002 Jamis Eclipse is still nice to ride but its rear Ksyrium SSC wheel is now a bit out of true and I didn't realize what a difference it makes until riding the perfectly true Elites on my Motobecane. Even brand new, I don't remember the Jamis feeling as good.

    I couldn't get over how good I felt when I was done. My body didn't feel as beat up as on my other bikes. The titanium gives such a smooth ride and yet is so responsive. I feel there is such a direct power transfer from the pedals and it's particularly noticeable on hills.

    I see myself being able to go farther with less discomfort making this an excellent bike for centuries in addition to faster, shorter efforts.

    For $2800 I'm happy. I got my third bike and love the titanium as well as the components, minus the seatpost, of course.

    I'm still a little wary about the seatpost and will continue to carry the allen wrench. Here's what it looks like:


    I finally got that black piece down where it should be. The mechanic at the bike shop left it too high so that it was barely on the frame itself and half up on the black seatpost.

    One question: can/should titanium frames be waxed like steel and aluminum ones?

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