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  1. #1
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    New F8 build advise needed

    I am in the mid of building my F8. I have got most of the components but one thing still hanging is the crank and cassette. My initial thought would be to go with mid-compact 52/36 and a smooth 11-23 cassette. My area is relatively flat and not so hilly. I am just wondering whether a standard 53/38 crank would suit me better.

    New F8 build advise needed-img_3077.jpg

    Below are the components that I am putting together for my F8 build:
    Frame: Pinarello Dogma F8 Wiggo tribute white size 470
    Group set: Shimano Dura-Ace Di2
    Stem: ENVE carbon 100mm
    Bar: ENVE SES Aero bar 42cm
    Bar tape: Lizard Skins DSP dual color white/black
    Breaks: eecycle break
    Bottom Bracket: Ceramic Speed
    Wheels: ENVE SES 4.5 clincher Chris King R45 ceramic
    Tire: Continental GP4000S II with latex tube (25C front and 23C rear to match the wheel rim width)
    Saddle: Sworks Romin white
    Padel: Look Keo Blade Ti
    Bottle cage: ENVE
    Garmin mount: ENVE
    Computer: Garmin Edge 520
    Power meter: Stage left crank arm

  2. #2
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    Reputation: joeinchi's Avatar
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    I'm not sure it matters.

    I put together numbers (using Sheldon Brown's gain ratio calculator) for an 11-spd using 172.5 cranks on 23c tires and and spinning at 90 rpm. The highlighted speeds indicate combos at which you'd be cross chaining. Unless you consistently push +22 mph or rarely break 17, you'll find yourself in a sub-optimal combination ... with either crankset.

    Good question, though!

    Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

    (click on the image a couple times to get a zoomed view)
    New F8 build advise needed-cross-chaining-11-spd.jpg
    Joe

    Experiencing back, neck or hand pain? Watch this short video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rm8ML7eWUkk

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeinchi View Post
    Unless you consistently push +22 mph or rarely break 17, you'll find yourself in a sub-optimal combination ... with either crankset.
    What would be your suggestion to have a more optimal combination?

  4. #4
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    The answer varies by person. Not everyone produces the same power or uses the same cadence, so the right setup depends on who's on the bike.

    I'd recommend that you use the calculator and plug in various chain ring and cogset combinations to determine which suits your output (sustainable speeds) and cadence best while minimizing cross chaining. Cross chaining isn't the end of the world but, if you like to go easy on your components and maximize their useful life, it's well worth considering.

    Hope that makes sense.

    Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
    Joe

    Experiencing back, neck or hand pain? Watch this short video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rm8ML7eWUkk

  5. #5
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    Sigh...my LBS just called me up and say Sworks Romin is no longer available to order in white. Would the bike looks good in black saddle visually? My initial plan is to have white saddle and white/black dual color bar tape to compliment the white frame. If I were to go with a black saddle, should I be consistent and go with all black bar tape as well?

  6. #6
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    If it's flat where you live, why do you need a 52x11 or a 53x11? I would run a 50 up front for the sole reason that you don't need to shift out of your big ring very often. I live in Colorado and run a compact up front and love it, but I can spin my 50 x 11 up over 50 mph if need be, fairly easily.

    Much of the trends away from 50/34's is plain machismo. I met a vet who had both knees reconstructed because of an IED explosion, who was riding a compact, and asked me if he should switch to a 53/39. His reasoning was that his military buddies were making fun of him for riding a compact. What I found most amusing about my conversation with this fellow, was that he didn't even know what cassette he was running on his bike, but thought it might be a good idea to switch to a standard crank.

    If you would go with a 50/34 or 36 up front, you could get a 12-25 on the back and have single tooth jumps from the 12-19, then three, 2 tooth jumps til the end. It doesn't appear that Shimano makes a 12-23, so considering your terrain, I think the 12-25 would be a great option. Another plus if you go with a 34 would be, that you could ride in hilly-mountains without changing you're cassette, if you are fairly strong.

  7. #7
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    Go with the mid. You will hardly ever be putting it in the small ring anyway based on your terrain. I always had a 53/39 with 11-21 8sp. Then I got a new bike with the 50/34 compact and 12-28 10sp. Hated it, and immediately swapped out for a 52/36 mid with 11-25 cassette. I am in New England with flats but also rollies.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by twinkles View Post
    If it's flat where you live, why do you need a 52x11 or a 53x11? I would run a 50 up front for the sole reason that you don't need to shift out of your big ring very often. I live in Colorado and run a compact up front and love it, but I can spin my 50 x 11 up over 50 mph if need be, fairly easily.

    Much of the trends away from 50/34's is plain machismo. I met a vet who had both knees reconstructed because of an IED explosion, who was riding a compact, and asked me if he should switch to a 53/39. His reasoning was that his military buddies were making fun of him for riding a compact. What I found most amusing about my conversation with this fellow, was that he didn't even know what cassette he was running on his bike, but thought it might be a good idea to switch to a standard crank.

    If you would go with a 50/34 or 36 up front, you could get a 12-25 on the back and have single tooth jumps from the 12-19, then three, 2 tooth jumps til the end. It doesn't appear that Shimano makes a 12-23, so considering your terrain, I think the 12-25 would be a great option. Another plus if you go with a 34 would be, that you could ride in hilly-mountains without changing you're cassette, if you are fairly strong.
    I am on a 50/34 compact today with my existing bike. I do run out of gear with 50x11 on some of the hill decent that we have here thus the decision to go mid compact of 52/36. After some thought I am getting the 12-25 cassette on my new bike.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by etil_etanoat View Post
    I am on a 50/34 compact today with my existing bike. I do run out of gear with 50x11 on some of the hill decent that we have here thus the decision to go mid compact of 52/36. After some thought I am getting the 12-25 cassette on my new bike.
    A 50x11 is a longer gear than a 52x12. & a 53x12. Where do you live that you're spinning out of a 50x11?

  10. #10
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    Have finalized to 52/36 mid with 12-25 cassette.

    Build is scheduled to be next Friday as still pending few components to be delivered.

    Saddle change to S-Works Toupe 143mm white. Also adding K-Edge Pro road braze-on chain catcher.

    Going to wrap the bar with two color bar tape (black & white) like the new Scott Foil 2016. The green will be white. Since I ride mostly on the hood it is more practical to have the black on top.

    New F8 build advise needed-foil-teaserline-syncrosaerorr10cockpit-background-120482_original_6.jpg

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