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  1. #1
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    1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice

    Need help with some bike restoration advice. I have a 1987 Bianchi Giro I have been reunited with! I got it off the showroom in 1987 and raced for years. Joined the Army and my brothers friend took it and spray painted it, replaced the seat, headset and pedals. Unknown to me this bike has been sitting in my mom's attic for 20 years! Looking to restore it/ have it restored. It'sprobably not worth $100 but PRICELESS to me. It's being shipped from Florida so I can't get the serial number or any better pics. I would like to keep the components that are still good (if any) and replace any with parts from the appropriate original group. Included are a few bad pics as well as a pic of me on the bike lined up for the local crit in 1989. Has a bit of rust but does not appear too bad.



    Questions: I've seen some conflicting info, are these indeed Campy VictorySrnchrocomponents? Advice on places to have it stripped, painted and re-decaled? Somewhere in Arizona would be good, I'd love to talk to someone close by jazzed to look it over and see if it can be brought back to life!

    1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180308-201943.jpg1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180308-201703.jpg1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180308-201912.jpg1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180312-192020.jpg

    Thanks!
    JK

  2. #2
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    Post a shot of the front & rear derailleur, down tube shifters, crank and brakes. Pictures should be straight on to be able to see all the branding.

  3. #3
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    cool. you're lucky. that will be a fun project.

    i would try to strip the paint myself somehow before taking it anywhere. it might be easy.

    you can always go cheaper until you find good deals on campy. like you could use early '80s nuovo record derailleurs until you find the exact ones. or use japanese stuff to get it on the road while you look for deals.

    i would build the wheels myself. it's easier than you think. i use sun m13 ii rims and sapim spokes.
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  4. #4
    hfc
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    Give your buddy a smack on the wrist for painting over that Celeste!Thatís will be a cool project. Yes a pic, even fuzzy ones, of RD, shifters, and crank will be helpful. I have an Ď89 Giro and itís a wonderful bike. Keep us updated!

  5. #5
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    Try Southwest Frameworks in Dallas, TX.

    Or, Gilmour Bicycles in Tempe AZ.

    Be sure and post photos of the finished restoration!

  6. #6
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    I would try to clean the spray paint off first. Check out YouTube for some tips. And FYI you can also get it powder coated the original color. Itís not as shinny as paint but it is often much cheaper and more durable.
    If you want it period correct you should try to find a donor bike that has all the parts you need.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Thumbs up

    What a wonderful story.
    PRICELESS is a seldom used word if you are serious.

    edit - just re-looked at the frame pic and you've got most of the components there. DUH!! You are 1/2 way there. Learn to polish and they may shine.

    Let me be the first to open the cost question to make it like in your race pic, or close.
    Strip & paint $200ish - 800.
    Components - Campy $500+ (BB, crank, derailleurs, brakes, levers, bars+stem)
    Wheels w/ Campy hubs $200+

    It all depends upon how picky you want to be - NOS? or 'worn but functioning'?
    Could you live with friction vs indexed?
    Powdercoat vs paint/clearcoat?

    The above $$$ does not preclude finding 'super deals'. Or a 'donor bike' with undamaged parts. I like the idea of throwing together a cheap build and ride it for a while to see how you might want to build it.

    If it's to be a priceless wallhanger, go the full Monty = paint, NOS Record components, Nisi tubular rims, vintage celeste saddle, etc. Maybe even Bianchi branded/engraved/panto'd parts. Relive the past like it should have been.
    Last edited by SantaCruz; 03-13-2018 at 12:16 PM.

  8. #8
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    If you want to "restore" it, you'll have to stick with 7-sp downtube shifters (possibly index..), non-aero rims, etc.

    If you want to resto-mod it, you can upgrade to brifters, aero wheels, etc.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the comments! Some better pics below. I would like to keep as many of the current components, most of which are original. It will be something I do ride occasionally so a new saddle (celeste of course!) and pedals compatible with my current Trek. I'd like to keep downtube shifters and non aero wheels. Weight and aero are not as important as getting it right. It will always be faster than me so old school is cool. Anything that has to be replaced I'm willing to go for 'worn but functioning' then build out better as pure restoration parts are available. Price is always a concern but within reason I do want to relive the past as accurately as possible. I'm going in with the understanding it may cost as much (maybe more?) to revive as it did brand new (don't tell the Mrs.). I've already had fun with this and it is still being shipped from Fla. With that being said my brother (not the one who let it get spray painted) has a 1981 Biancch Nuovo Racing I may get also! This one has meaning though.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180313-163812.jpg   1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180313-163848.jpg   1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180313-163912.jpg   1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-screenshot_20180313-163902.jpg  

  10. #10
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    - polish up what you can. like the rear derailleur cage. use an iron file and 600-1000 grit sandpaper. if things are anodized, you won't be able to polish them unless you deanodize first with oven cleaner (like easy-off with lye in it). often, it's worth it to deanodize stuff, but sometimes you can live with a nick or scratch to retain the protection, memories, patina, originality, or beauty of the campy glow. i usually deanodize stuff, though.

    - campy used some cranks with reverse threading. maybe the victory model. check velobase for details, and be careful when removing the cranks.

    - that rear derailleur should be fully overhauled, and it should be good to go. just remove the stop pin, unload the cage by letting it unwind, then disassemble.

    - if the pedals are campy ... polish, overhaul, and clean them before selling for $100 or so to offset the cost of your project. or use them as display to dress up your book case!

    - what a horrible repaint job! but this is a good thing, as it should be easy to remove.
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  11. #11
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    That pic of you riding it is awesome. The poor Celeste got painted a horrible (black/blue?). I would seriously try and remove the old paint and restore the original Celeste, even if it comes out vintage/patina/opaque. It's your original bike, keep it as original as possible. Priceless.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by justkidn View Post
    Thanks for all the comments! Some better pics below. I would like to keep as many of the current components, most of which are original. It will be something I do ride occasionally so a new saddle (celeste of course!) and pedals compatible with my current Trek. I'd like to keep downtube shifters and non aero wheels. Weight and aero are not as important as getting it right. It will always be faster than me so old school is cool. Anything that has to be replaced I'm willing to go for 'worn but functioning' then build out better as pure restoration parts are available. Price is always a concern but within reason I do want to relive the past as accurately as possible. I'm going in with the understanding it may cost as much (maybe more?) to revive as it did brand new (don't tell the Mrs.). I've already had fun with this and it is still being shipped from Fla. With that being said my brother (not the one who let it get spray painted) has a 1981 Biancch Nuovo Racing I may get also! This one has meaning though.
    I'm looking at that left shifter and something looks bent. It looks like the tube is dimpled where the shifter boss is brazed on. If that is the case it would be a good thing to check the alignment of the frame before investing much money. If something is bent it should be able to be straightened by a competent frame builder or paint\repair house.

    Or is it just the angle of the photo?
    Too old to ride plastic

  13. #13
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    Good eye! May be a bit of a dimple. Towards the end of my "career" I did crash pretty bad at the old Coconut Grove criterium. Just arrived via FedEx today. Better pic. Will look closer after cleaning and stripping paint. Will definitely post some during restoration pics....will be a drawn out process.
    1987 Bianchi Giro restoration advice-shifter1.jpg

  14. #14
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    Yeah, looks like your downtube is bent. That's gonna cost you.....
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  15. #15
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    I can't tell anything is "bent" from merely these pics.
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfrancois View Post
    I can't tell anything is "bent" from merely these pics.
    Clear as day. Left shifter, at the base. Go see an optometrist.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  17. #17
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    telling someone his downtube is bent based on these pics is trollsville.
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  18. #18
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    Since the DT is in most respects a tensile member, I doubt that small dent will seriously hurt the strength of the frameset, but it IS obvious. If you are going 'restomod', a cable-holder there wouldn't be too obvious as to the dent, but if you want to stay with DT shifters, it will be.

    A good framebuilder should easily be able to remove the shifter mounts, go in, and bend the tube back, then re-install the mounts. Of course, this needs to be done before sending it to paint. If you wish to 'upgrade' to more modern 130mm dropout spacing, this could be done at the same time.

    This bike is worth doing the repair.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

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