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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdan_m_777
    Hi Dave thanks for the reply. The wheels owe me nothing I have them over 5-6 years and have plenty of miles of them. They worked very well for me over the years. They are well out of warranty at this stage, I just wanted to see if I could save them for my turbo trainer while I buy a new set of Richey’s for my road bike.

    I had a mechanic true the wheel a few weeks ago and he said the hub was sealed and that he could not access anything for servicing.

    Thanks,
    Daniel
    Daniel,

    That's weird, from what I know all our hubs are serviceable. Someone here would be more than happy to walk your mechanic through it. Have him or her give us a call with wheel in hand and we'll get it figured out.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  2. #77
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    Hi Dave

    The silver Classic bars look great. Do you have an actual weight for them? The RitcheyLogic site doesn't list one.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lab Worker
    Hi Dave

    The silver Classic bars look great. Do you have an actual weight for them? The RitcheyLogic site doesn't list one.
    Thanks! We're extremely happy with how they turned out. The weight of a 40cm is 266g. Hope you decide to pick some up.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  4. #79
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    Torque spec please

    Hi Dave,
    I know you have better things to do but how do you feel about creating a sticky for this site on torque specs?
    I seek the NM on the expander nut and the top cap from my Redline Conquest Team.
    Thank you very much.
    Rich

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ritchey_Dave
    Thanks! We're extremely happy with how they turned out. The weight of a 40cm is 266g. Hope you decide to pick some up.
    Thanks for the quick reply - great to see amazing service like this.

  6. #81
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    Thanks Re:Wheels

    Hi Dave,
    Thanks for all the information and the quick replies. I will try your first bit of advice and see if a Ritchey distributor can sort it for me. The mechanic I was using isn't one and so might not be familiar with all the Ritchey wheel sets. Now that I know the wheel should be serviceable I will locate a Ritchey distributor to sort it for me.

    Thanks,
    Daniel

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by RK250
    Hi Dave,
    I know you have better things to do but how do you feel about creating a sticky for this site on torque specs?
    I seek the NM on the expander nut and the top cap from my Redline Conquest Team.
    Thank you very much.
    Rich

    That's a great idea! I'll get those together and see about getting that set up. With all the carbon fiber these days torque spec can't be ignored. Thanks for the suggestion.

    As far as the fork expander bolt, the answer has been just tight enough so that it doesn't come loose as you cinch everything else down. Which shouldn't be very much as you really only need to clamp everything down enough so that there's no play. However I'll see if I can come up with a better answer.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  8. #83
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    I want to buy your 5Nm torque key. If I heat the 4mm tip with a flame, put the tip is a vise, and then pry it out with some flat head screwdrivers, do you think that will work?

    I need a 5mm bit for my seatpost.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dcmkx2000
    I want to buy your 5Nm torque key. If I heat the 4mm tip with a flame, put the tip is a vise, and then pry it out with some flat head screwdrivers, do you think that will work?

    I need a 5mm bit for my seatpost.
    I wouldn't recommend that you do that. The Ritchey Torque Key is specifically calibrated and designed for our stems' material, bolt material, thread count of the bolt, and bolt size. All these things come into play when determining a torque spec, by changing the bit you change the integrity of the Torque Key.

    Here's a great article that explains this a little more.
    Proper Bolt Torque
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  10. #85
    Elmira > Taiwan > Elmira
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    Dave:

    I have a few BreakAway related questions...
    • Is there a parts list for the sub-16 pound Ti BreakAway in the InterBike photos?
    • I've been an ex-pat in Taiwan (Taichung right now where Ritchey has offices) for about 5 of the last 7 years and I've attended the Taipei Bike Expo several times. The Ritchey booth was basically a table and some meeting space in the back, but no products. Will actual products be on display this year?
    • I was here in Taiwan when I tried to buy a BreakAway back in 2005, but no one sold them or seemed able to get them. Is that still the case?
    2005 Ritchey BreakAway (steel)
    Full Campagnolo compact drivetrain - Chorus 11sp
    (50, 34 & 12-29)
    Proton wheels
    Cateye CC-TR300TW V3
    Ritchey fork, stem, headset, bars and seatpost
    Fizik Gobi saddle and bar tape
    BeBop Pedals

  11. #86
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    Hello Dave,

    I was wondering if ritchey could make a road spd type pedal, with a cleat that is compatible with mtb pedals? I'm using a wellgo single sided spd pedal, which is not rebuildable and am looking for a replacement. Seems to me alot of folks would like a pedal similar to your micro, which could use the same cleat as mtb pedals, so only one pair of shoes could be used for all bikes. Your micro defeats the purpose of an spd road pedal cause it requires a cleat which isn't compatible with your mtb pedals.
    Last edited by twinkles; 01-21-2011 at 07:37 PM.

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by twinkles
    Hello Dave,

    I was wondering if ritchey could make a road spd type pedal, with a cleat that is compatible with mtb pedals? I'm using a wellgo single sided spd pedal, which is not rebuildable and am looking for a replacement. Seems to me alot of folks would like a pedal similar to your micro, which could use the same cleat as mtb pedals, so only one pair of shoes could be used for all bikes. Your micro defeats the purpose of an spd road pedal cause it requires a cleat which isn't compatible with your mtb pedals.

    The Micro cleat will work with both the Micro pedals as well as our MTB pedals (Pro Paradigm, Comp V4). However, the MTB pedal cleats will not work with the Micro pedals. Reason being there's a small cut out on the Micro cleat that allows it to lay closer to the spindle of the Micro pedals. The MTB cleats don't have this. So there you have it, style out those bikes with some sweet Ritchey pedals
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  13. #88
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    Thanks for the response. I'll look into the micro pedal. I think you follks could market and sell the crap out of a micro type pedal, which doesn't require special cleats. I don't think most folks looking at the micro give a crap about having their foot a couple of millimeters closer to the pedal, they;'re looking for a pedal they can use with their mtb shoes. Back in the day, I used to ride these funky turntable look type cleats, which put my foot about a foot and a half above the pedal spindle, and It didn't slow me down. Ask folks on rbr and mtbr if they'd ike a road spd which they could use with their mtb shoes, without buying special cleats. Remember, in most cases, simpler is better. Again, thanks for your time.

  14. #89
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    Have designs on getting the entire ritchey cockpit in wet white.
    My only question is what's up with the black faceplate on the 4 axis stem? I'd much prefer a matching white one (even the silver one that ships with the black stems would be preferable). So do any white face plates exist or will they ever?

  15. #90
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    Coming off of what frith asked...I bought a 4 axis matte black that comes with a silver faceplate but would really like a black one.

    Is my only option to buy a wet white stem just to get the black face plate?

    I know you sell two carbon face plates on your website, the second is a UD but with no photograph, is this UD carbon faceplate black with no visible weave?

    Part II

    I also bought some wcs curve handlebars, as I was looking for something alloy (budget reasons) but also very stiff for racing. Would you consider these bars on the stiffer end of your alloy bars?

    Thanks for your help, it is appreciated.

  16. #91
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    Ritchey graphics coming off

    I've noticed that the graphics on my new Classic seatpost has been eaten away by, I'm guessing, the grease (FinishLine Teflon) I used to lube the inside of the seat tube with. I removed the seatpost to change the saddle and noticed that most of the print on both sides of the post was smeared or missing. The only thing I can figure is that there was some sort of reaction between the lube and the ink used for the graphics. I've never had this problem before either with a Ritchey product or some other brand. I was not a happy camper when I discovered this, esp after spending the kind of money I did for the post. I would think that the graphics would last a little longer than two months. I can see how they would wear off but not just disappear like they did. Without thought, I used acetone to remove what was left of the graphics so it wouldn't look so "used". I wish I had taken pics of it to share with Ritchey but it's too late for that. Is this an issue with the new product or is this an isolated event and is there any recourse for me to take. I have a funny feeling that since I "finished" the job w/acetone that Ritchey won't touch it and that's my bad. A bit disgruntled but mostly disappointed. Thanks for listening. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frith
    Have designs on getting the entire ritchey cockpit in wet white.
    My only question is what's up with the black faceplate on the 4 axis stem? I'd much prefer a matching white one (even the silver one that ships with the black stems would be preferable). So do any white face plates exist or will they ever?

    At the moment our graphic designers feel black looks the best to balance out the black that is usually the color of people's top caps of their headsets. I'm looking into seeing if we can add the alloy faceplate options to the website so you can buy the faceplate you feel would best match your set up.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tarmac CK
    Coming off of what frith asked...I bought a 4 axis matte black that comes with a silver faceplate but would really like a black one.

    Is my only option to buy a wet white stem just to get the black face plate?

    I know you sell two carbon face plates on your website, the second is a UD but with no photograph, is this UD carbon faceplate black with no visible weave?

    Part II

    I also bought some wcs curve handlebars, as I was looking for something alloy (budget reasons) but also very stiff for racing. Would you consider these bars on the stiffer end of your alloy bars?

    Thanks for your help, it is appreciated.

    Working on getting those other alloy faceplate options up on the website. As far as the UD carbon faceplate, you can see a weave if you look really close, but yes it more resembles black from further away.

    WCS Curve bars are probably our stiffest bars. They've got a pretty basic, no frills, top section with shorter rounded drops. Great for sprinting. A good chunk of United Heathcare rides those exact bars right now and love them.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by shudson16
    I've noticed that the graphics on my new Classic seatpost has been eaten away by, I'm guessing, the grease (FinishLine Teflon) I used to lube the inside of the seat tube with. I removed the seatpost to change the saddle and noticed that most of the print on both sides of the post was smeared or missing. The only thing I can figure is that there was some sort of reaction between the lube and the ink used for the graphics. I've never had this problem before either with a Ritchey product or some other brand. I was not a happy camper when I discovered this, esp after spending the kind of money I did for the post. I would think that the graphics would last a little longer than two months. I can see how they would wear off but not just disappear like they did. Without thought, I used acetone to remove what was left of the graphics so it wouldn't look so "used". I wish I had taken pics of it to share with Ritchey but it's too late for that. Is this an issue with the new product or is this an isolated event and is there any recourse for me to take. I have a funny feeling that since I "finished" the job w/acetone that Ritchey won't touch it and that's my bad. A bit disgruntled but mostly disappointed. Thanks for listening. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
    Unfortunately, sometimes the combination of grease and the scratching of a frame against a seatpost can remove the graphics. It's definitely disappointing and we try to make sure our graphics are above the average insertion level. If you email me your address I'd be more than happy to send you some assorted decals that would freshen it up a little bit.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  20. #95
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    Ritchey Pro bars

    G'day RD,

    On my race bike I have a WCS cockpit (bars/stem) I just bought some Ritchey Pro bars for my training bike but was suprised to see they dont have the contours for the cables like the WCS ones, what is the reasoning on this, and will it change so they do?

    cheers

    Ralph

  21. #96
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    Hi Ralph,

    There's a couple things we do in order to bring the price down from WCS to Pro. Mostly it has to do with material but removing things like cable grooves can also help in making a $110 bar cost $90. There are no plans at the moment to change that on those particular bars. But who knows, technology is constantly changing and what was top of the line one day can suddenly be mid level pricing.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ritchey_Dave
    The most efficient way to handle that would be to bring it in to an authorized Ritchey dealer for assessment. If it is a warranty issue they'll be best equiped to contact our warranty department and get you up rolling as fast as possible.

    You can go to our online Dealer Locator to find a retailer near you.
    Hi Dave,
    Thanks for your reply; I took the wheels to a Ritchey dealer. They said that the wheels have been discontinued and the parts are no longer available for my Ritchey DS Pro wheels. Is there anywhere I can source a set of replacement bearings for this wheel?

    Regards,
    Daniel

  23. #98
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    FWIW, if it's a sealed bearing, I'd just press or pull them from the hub and then go to a bearing supply house and ask for replacements to match. Or if you have calipers you can measure the inner and outer diameters and the width and order replacements online by searching by the size. Bearings are pretty standardized and it's unlikely Ritchey used anything that would be hard to find.

  24. #99
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    Hi pacificaslim,
    Thanks for your reply, I took the entire rear wheel to the bike shop and that is the feedback they gave me. I have never worked on a wheel before but if it is an easy job to remove the bearings I will try and see if I can find a replacement myself, if Dave has no other options.

    Thanks again,
    Daniel

  25. #100
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    Daniel,

    We've had a few different verisons of that wheel. If you can send me a photo of the hub, I can most likely tell you what bearings go with it. If we have them in stock I can sell them to your bike shop. However, I can't recommend that you do it yourself for liability reasons. I'm surprised the bike shop didn't offer to help you out on that.
    Dave Law
    Ritchey Design Representative

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