It's been a very busy rentree as we say here and I have been meaning to post this report for quite a while but other things kept popping up.
A few years ago, a fellow RBR'r asked about challenging rides and I admonished him to *really* step up to a challenge and sign up for the Etape du Tour. I had been doing this event as a *fun* end to my racing season every year since 2000 and had been joined on and off by other team-mates from France and my cousin and his team-mates from Steamboat Springs. We always have a blast and you cannot beat the riding -- or so I said to MarkS. Well, he took me up on my challenge, rode the Etape in 2002 and has done every one since then. The plan for this suummer was that MarkS would meet us for the Etape and ride w/us for a week after the event. Also, TeoTeoTeo, another RBR'r who had spent many years working the Tour as a guide for a tour group, allowed himself to be persuaded to come along for a week of riding in the Pyrenees and doing the Etape before getting back to his day-job herd... er, I mean accompanying his guests back to Paris. We were set to go but at the last minute, my cousin backed out in order to expand his business empire and so Teo and I were off for a week of riding before the Etape and MarkS would join me for the week after the Etape.
I'm going to post this in 3 parts to manage my time, the first post today will cover the early part of the trip and some of the logistics, the second post (later this week?) will cover Teo and my rides in the Tourmalet/Aubisque area and the third will cover MarkS and my rides in the Ariege.
Here goes!
A+
Philippe
Last edited by philippec : 10-28-2005 at 01:30 AM.
Teo and I decided to stop off in Nantes and catch the TDF ITT on our way down to the Pyrenees -- shameless plug for Teo here: he is the author of the definitive guide on self-touring the the TDF (www.velotainment.com), part of the purpose of the trip was to gather info that he could pass on to his readers.
Teo knows the TDF, knows bikes, knows Texas, is an easy-going travel companion and is wondering in this picture why the woman at the table behind him is playing with his ear!
July 1, 2005. It is cold in Nantes and Teo was wishing he had brought more warm clothes!
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
Last edited by philippec : 09-20-2005 at 03:49 AM.
We got down to the start of the ITT after a short train ride and a bit of time-trialing ourselves (sorry Teo!). We had to be sure we got onto Noirmoutier Island before they closed the causeway. We did and found ourselves some food (Pizza -- Teo has a good story about that!) and a nice place to watch the riders. Below are a bunch of pictures that hopefully convey some of the atmosphere.
Teo was particularly happy to be able to give his buddy Zabrieskie the V-for-Victory sign (er... or something like that) as he passed by. In any case, Teo sent off the pic to Zabrieskie and he was psyched!
In the first pictures, you can see our encampment -- with bibs hanging out to dry on our tent lines. The last pictures are of Basso, Ulrich and some guy the motorcyclists seemed to be swarming around....
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
Last edited by philippec : 10-28-2005 at 01:31 AM.
After a long haul back from Noirmoutier to Nantes -- we made it in just at nightfall! -- we looked back on our day and reflected on what we had learned (Teo might have to provide some commentary here...):
1. Respect the Pizza!
2. Pez Cycling gets a lot of free plugs
3. Fassa Bortalo has got some very, very bad Karme coming its way (we know why they did not get their sponsorship renewed)!
4. (related to #3) Why do some people hate ducks so?
5. Teo is a shocking guy
6. People were not meant to haul 20 lbs of gear in messenger bags for 90 kms.
Next day, we trained down to Lourdes and bussed from there to Argeles which was to be our base for the next few days. What is there to see in Lourdes you ask? Electric Madonnas, Glow-in-the-dark crucifixes, gruesome Jesus heads and plenty of Italian pilgrims!
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
I had booked us into a Gite d'Etape that I had used in the past. Gites d'Etapes are relatively poorly known outside of France but provide tremendous value for money. We paid 25 euros a day (about 27 dollars) for a room, breakfast and dinner. The food is simple but plentiful and the guests are often hikers/cyclists etc... and make for some good company. While we were there, we saw a group of belgian cyclists come through, and were pretty much adopted by a group of older hikers from Marseille (they even insisted that they drive us 30kms to the train station in Lourdes -- bikes and all -- on the day we left). Dinner is taken together, and I was kept busy translating so that Teo felt involved in the conversation. The rooms are simple with in-suite bathroom and shower facilities. There are several rooms of 3 beds and two larger dorms with 6-7 beds. Teo and I were but in one of the latter and had the whole room for ourselves and our junk all week. Below are some shots in and around the Gite d'etape to give you a feel for the place.
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
Last edited by philippec : 09-20-2005 at 04:35 AM.
We were doing this trip car-free, so here are some shots of the riding around the Argeles (including the Rail-trail that conected Argeles to the Gite d'Etape). Also, here's how you get groceries around when you buy more than can fit in your messenger bag.
That will be it for this post. The next installement will cover some of the major rides we did in this area including the Aubisque and the Tourmalet.
A+
Philippe
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
Hi. Man those pictures are NICE!. Not only those with the riders but those showing you guys travelling around with your bikes! How does it feel to be so close to the pros?
I have to say I was really looking forward to the TdF this year for a few reasons but the biggest one was this part of the trip. To say thata Phillipe was a very gracious host was a bit of an understatement even going so far as to pick me up at the airport in Paris. The next day it was onward to Nantes where the fun really began. For someone that is also showing people around France it was nice to see some new places and travel a new way.
Traveling with Phillipe was perfect as his english is so good that to many we seemed just like 2 americans and then Phillipe would break out and surprise them. The perfect example was a group of old crusty TdF veteran race watchers sat next to us during part of the time trial and started swapping stories. My french is not so great but with Phillipe I could fill in the gaps and such. Maybe next time Phillipe and I meet in France I'll bring him a "Blame me, I brought the American" T-shirt. With all of the Lance fans in France though there is no chance of that on this trip.
Watching the time trial was the quintessential TdF experience in my book. Just an easy day that started with a 40k TT from the train station (laughs) followed by a delicious lunch. Phillipe and I worked so hard to get to the Isle on time and had an 80k ride home so we fueled up by stopping at a local market for fresh cherries, pears, and cookies to compliment the fresh pizza we ordered down the street. The pizza maker being ever the artisan made sure to stress the point that he'd worked too hard on our pizza for us to destroy his work trying to cary them on a bike. In fact he said we must "RESPECT THE PIZZA" and gave us a demonstration on how to keep the pizza flat using our handlebars.
We ate and lounged while riders warmed and then we ate and lounged more! For this stage there weren't so many english speakers as the tour company trips for americans focus on later stages. I spent time in the median as many riders relaxed and warmed-up on the course riding back to the start line on the course which was a divided road with buttery smooth new blacktop. I'd yell something here and there at the english riders who seemed to appreciate the good will.
Soon riders had started going by and as part of an inside joke to a friend I vowed to flash Mr. Dave Zabriskie a hand gesture known as the shocker. For decorums sake I won't go into details on just what it means but is was all started by a picture on pez where Dave Z. flashed it himself. I knew Dave Z had a shot of winning so my idea was Zabriskie Shocks the Tour...
Now as the race wound down Phillipe and I had a long journey back so after watching th flotilla surrounding Lance go by we started for our long trip home. We had to go a good pace and along some of the flat tidal roads team cars were blowing past. At one point Phillipe and I were alone on a road with tidal canals/waters on both sides of us. Suddenly DUCKS appeared quickly crossing the road in front of us. I'd say 6-8 in number the were moving fast but not fast enough as we both were on full brakes trying to dodge them. Things got worse when the Fassa Bortolo team car attempted to pass Phillipe and I at a very high rate of speed. Soon Fassa was full on the brakes but to no avail as they hit several of the ducks and then sped away with so much of a wave to the ducks or Phillpe and I. In the end only one duck was killed and I did the humane thing and moved it from the road.
With darkness closing in and an 120 solid kilometers in our legs Phillipe and I ingested huge amounts of food and then were out for the night!
Last edited by teoteoteo : 09-20-2005 at 05:58 PM.
When I tell people how I came to ride in four Etapes du Tour and travel in France with a Parisian and a Texan, I often am met with some variant of the question: "How did you know that these guys weren't axe murderers?" Well, maybe Philippe and Teo really are axe murderers, but I have had a great time traveling with both of them. All joking aside, one has to be cognizant of the risks of taking the leap from an internet relationship to an in-person one. But, my getting to know Philippe and Teo via RBR has been a prime example of the positive force that the internet can be. So, Philippe, I join you on your soapbox.
I have been waiting for these pics -- since I arrived in France a week after Philippe and Teo had begun their traveling, I heard all of the stories that go with the pics without the visuals.
"Respect the Pizza!"
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"You are edgy, yet, comfortably PC friendly." -- teh Moreon
We all look forward to seeing and reading the "Rest of the Story"
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"There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle." --A. Einstein
Before the texas heat is too much to handle (99 today) I'll post a few pics quickly. Sadly most will require resizing to meet RBR standards so you all will have to wait to see Phillipe show off his pizza foldover trick.
Pic one is on the Metro going over the Seine at daybreak the day before the opening TT. We were on our way to the TGV to Nante.
Pic two is on the Isle and is the market owner gving wine samples.
Pic Three is our favorite Pizza man imploring us to Respect the Pizza. Note my eyes from the effort of hopping off the train 40k away and blowing onto the Isle afraid we weren't going to be allowed over the bridge which was supposed to be closed at noon. I will say thank you Phillipe for being a diesel locomotive on the flats for your still jet-lagged travel companion.
More later when I return from my ride later today.
Hi. Man those pictures are NICE!. Not only those with the riders but those showing you guys travelling around with your bikes! How does it feel to be so close to the pros?
I've been doing this for years... the pro's are pretty cool and one thing you tend to forget is that this is their job... so you get to hear a lot of "office talk". These guys are talking about football (soccer to you in the States), girls, food -- lots of talk about food! -- etc... Just a bunch of guys talking about stuff. Well, just a bunch of really skinny guys talking about stuff and smelling of camphor oil!
A+
Philippe
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
I've seen enough of Philippe's great pics to know that if he were an axe murderer at least you'd be buried in some beautiful countryside.
Great report Phillippe and Teo. My wife and I have really been talking about someday visiting and riding through Southern France and Northern Spain. Your pics only help to reinforce that desire.
I've seen enough of Philippe's great pics to know that if he were an axe murderer at least you'd be buried in some beautiful countryside.
Great report Phillippe and Teo. My wife and I have really been talking about someday visiting and riding through Southern France and Northern Spain. Your pics only help to reinforce that desire.
Now *that* made me laugh!
Cheers,
Philippe
PS. I've been traveling alot for work lately but manageed to get two great rides in. Last Sunday I rode from Genoa along the Cinque Terre Peninsula to La Spezia and part of the way back and on Saturday I rode ~ 200 kms around Attica from Athens down the coast to Sounio and then looping back up to Athens. I'll post those reports over in Touring/Commuting forum. Now I've got to get my training in gear for cyclocross season wooohooo!
Here's a teaser from the Genoa ride:
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
Last edited by philippec : 10-28-2005 at 01:34 AM.
PS. I've been traveling alot for work lately but manageed to get two great rides in. Last Sunday I rode from Genoa along the Cinque Terre Peninsula to La Spezia and part of the way back and on Saturday I rode ~ 200 kms around Attica from Athens down the coast to Sounio and then looping back up to Athens. I'll post those reports over in Touring/Commuting forum. Now I've got to get my training in gear for cyclocross season wooohooo!
Here's a teaser from the Genoa ride:
Post pic of Vernazza! It's my favorite of the Cinque Terre towns. I am enjoying your pics.
Man - you guys are making me want to get in on the action. Awesome pics.
Teo- whereabouts in Texas are you? Austin here. Pretty enough but nothing like the landscapes Phillipe is posting. Maybe around Lake Travis.....
I am in Austin too. Lake Travis is nice and so is north around Liberty Hill and Burnet but France is just incredible for so many reasons. The pics say it all. Who wouldn't love unspoiled countryside and cycling friendly people.
I am in Austin too. Lake Travis is nice and so is north around Liberty Hill and Burnet but France is just incredible for so many reasons. The pics say it all. Who wouldn't love unspoiled countryside and cycling friendly people.
I've ridden Liberty Hill/Burnet area. I did the Armadillo Classic a few months ago (brutal wind). I also really like the area NW of Austin around the towns of Manda and New Sweden. I have never been to France, but would love to do a bike tour of both France and Italy. I think it'd be a great place to visit on the back of a bike.
D*mmit, Philip. Now I really have to go back to France this summer!;) Seriously, we are considering visting the in-laws again. This time we plan to spend some time in Paris, possibly.
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Originally Posted by tetter
'Pain is temporary, and there might be beer at the finish line'
Here are the rest of my bunch...better late than never
Pic 1 Phillipe the Diesel kicks the pace right from the train station.....
pic 2 The roads are empty except for those warming up and those running behind schedule (Us)....
pic 3 Phillipe about to disrespect the Pizza right down his hungry gullet
pic 4 More treats
pic 5 Phillipe checks the map with the sinking sun at his back on tghe way back to Nante...we did some hammerin' to beat darkness and made it just in time
Here are the rest of my bunch...better late than never
Pic 1 Phillipe the Diesel kicks the pace right from the train station.....
Is that 39 MPH or 39 KmPH? In any event, it is impressive for a quick start after traveling on the train. I think that Philippe the Jet may be a better description.
Mark the Tortoise
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"You are edgy, yet, comfortably PC friendly." -- teh Moreon
damn, Teo... we should'a hooked a left 25 kms back. hmmm... if we take this road, I'm pretty sure we can make it back before sunrise.
Teo:
Philippe, turn the map right side up....
Philippe:
Right, so in 25kms, we turn right into Nantes! Woo hoo!
Note: Normally I have superlative navigation skills -- somehow all that went south during this trip, something that Teo and MarkS can (painfully) attest to (as will be seen in the 3rd installment!)
A+
Philippe
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Biking round the world -- Where have I been with my bike?
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