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Salsa La Raza with one gear... some questions

2K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  handsomerob 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I have built up this Salsa La Raza frame into a makeshift single speed for now (I still have a few things to complete). I am trying to come up with a good gear combination that isn't too tall and provides a snug chain.

I am using a wheelset with a 10 speed cassette trying out different gears (doesn't have an 18 on it though :( ). The crankset is a Ritchey Pro and I have a 48T and 50T that I have tried and the most snug chainline has been the pictured 50/17.

I would like to try out a 45T or 46T chain ring with a 16T or 17T to see if either can produce a little bit easier gear with the same snug chain. Are there any places online where people working with vertical dropouts have documented what gear ratios fit the specific length of the "chainstay" (since there isn't any play in the dropout itself)? https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

 
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#2 ·
Try here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixed-gear_bicycle

I have used a nice little Java Applet in the past that allows you to calculate it yourself (and then you can jump by whole gear-inches in any direction). The catch is, you have to have an EXACT chainstay measurement - that is, dead-nuts-on from your BB center to your axle center. When it works, it works great: there's NO chance of your wheel slipping, to say the least...

Your other option, depending on how cheap this project is, is to have new dropouts installed on that frame (which, in my opinion, is worth saving). Any number of small builders should be able and willing to do this for you, and probably for less than $200. But you'll need a re-paint, obviously. Cheaper than that, maybe, is an ENO Eccentric hub.
 
#3 ·
But if he's going to stick with single speed, a chain tensoiner & a SS kit would be an even cheaper solution unless the OP does not want to go that route.
 
#4 ·
roadfix said:
But if he's going to stick with single speed, a chain tensoiner & a SS kit would be an even cheaper solution unless the OP does not want to go that route.
If I wanted to just go SS that would definitely be a easy fix, but I want to go fixed as well. :thumbsup:
 
#5 ·
handsomerob said:
If I wanted to just go SS that would definitely be a easy fix, but I want to go fixed as well. :thumbsup:


will the chainline error using a cassette be enough to make the chain measurement wonky for fixed?
 
#6 ·
handsomerob said:
If I wanted to just go SS that would definitely be a easy fix, but I want to go fixed as well. :thumbsup:
Personally, my first choice would be is to get a suitable frame for tension adjustability. Second choice would be an eccentric hub.
 
#8 ·
roadfix said:
Personally, my first choice would be is to get a suitable frame for tension adjustability. Second choice would be an eccentric hub.
That is a keen sense of logic... but I was thinking that this will be my first actual fixed gear so if the whole fixed thing doesn't work out, I can always rebuild it with shifters.

Also, I got the frame as pictured below as complete bike (\with Campagnolo Athena 8 speed less shifters) for $300 shipped. I think I can sell the parts for close to that and end up with a nearly free frame that has a brand new powdercoat.

The only other parts I have bought for this build was the Wound Up fork and an Ultegra Octalink BB for $55 total, so it is definitely intended as a budget build.
 
#9 ·
Magic gears work GREAT. Don't listen to the naysayers. Do they limit your choice of gearing and/or result in your buying a whole lot of cogs and chainrings to change that gearing? Absolutely. But for minimum outlay, magic gears are fantastic. I think you've got a great project.

As far as the chain changing tension, it will if it's stretched. When/if you calculate a magic gear, you should buy a new chain to match your new cog and/or chainring (obviously, any magic gear calculations figures a properly sized chain - that is, on the inch).
 
#10 ·
Applesauce said:
Magic gears work GREAT. Don't listen to the naysayers. Do they limit your choice of gearing and/or result in your buying a whole lot of cogs and chainrings to change that gearing? Absolutely. But for minimum outlay, magic gears are fantastic. I think you've got a great project.

As far as the chain changing tension, it will if it's stretched. When/if you calculate a magic gear, you should buy a new chain to match your new cog and/or chainring (obviously, any magic gear calculations figures a properly sized chain - that is, on the inch).
I never even heard the term "magic gears" until your post... Google took care of a LOT of questions.

I went for a little spin and I actually think the 50/17 is a good ratio for me. Not so much because it is easy enough to climb as much as it has a very comfortable cruising speed cadence.

The 50T ring I have is an undetermined vintage Sugino. Is there a way to determine if it is strong enough to use on a fixte? Now I need to figure out how to beg, borrow, trade, or steal an appropriate wheelset.
 
#11 ·
Looking at the picture above, were you trying to arrive at a magic gear by wrapping the chain (chainring and cog) to see where you have an ideal tension or "provides an ideal snug chain?" I think you can replicate that if you are using spacers on the cassette hub. But then you said you "wanted to go fix as well".

I am just wondering, if you put a rear track wheel in there, will the cog be in the same place as where the 17 gear is right now?

I believe this (good chainline) is what Fat Tire Fred is thinking as well.
 
#12 ·
midlife_xs's said:
Looking at the picture above, were you trying to arrive at a magic gear by wrapping the chain (chainring and cog) to see where you have an ideal tension or "provides an ideal snug chain?" I think you can replicate that if you are using spacers on the cassette hub. But then you said you "wanted to go fix as well".

I am just wondering, if you put a rear track wheel in there, will the cog be in the same place as where the 17 gear is right now?

I believe this (good chainline) is what Fat Tire Fred is thinking as well.
Yes, the 50/17 is providing ideal tension. As far as chainline goes, I am hoping that when I get a flip flop rear wheel spaced for a 130mm drop out, the cog would be in about the same place as it is now. I hope to borrow a fixed rear wheel tomorrow from a riding buddy to make a comparison on chain line.
 
#13 ·
handsomerob said:
Is there a way to determine if it is strong enough to use on a fixte?
It's strong enough. I've seen some really, really old, really really crappy chainrings that have stood up to worse "abuse" than fixied-gear riding. I wouldn't worry about that. Unless you're just looking for an excuse to replace the cranks...

As for the wheels, just buy a made-in-China rear wheel on eBay. The current trendster craze has made fixie wheels CHEAP. Granted, most of them are borderline junk, but you should a) be able to get at least a year or two out of even the cheapest, provided you true and tension it out of the box, clean the hub regularly, etc., and b) not feel bad about trashing it.
 
#14 ·
Applesauce said:
It's strong enough. I've seen some really, really old, really really crappy chainrings that have stood up to worse "abuse" than fixied-gear riding. I wouldn't worry about that. Unless you're just looking for an excuse to replace the cranks...

As for the wheels, just buy a made-in-China rear wheel on eBay. The current trendster craze has made fixie wheels CHEAP. Granted, most of them are borderline junk, but you should a) be able to get at least a year or two out of even the cheapest, provided you true and tension it out of the box, clean the hub regularly, etc., and b) not feel bad about trashing it.
Actually my thoughts were that the older the chain rings the thicker... and thereby stronger. I have no interest in dropping more coin for cranks.

As far as a wheelset goes... this just seems to be a good way to go when the time comes. I will need to get 17T, but that should be pretty inexpensive.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TRACK-ROAD-...ryZ58099QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Although... I really like the look of a silver rim with black spokes on the bike.
 
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