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Cateye Strada Double Wireless issue

21K views 11 replies 10 participants last post by  mdewitt71 
#1 · (Edited)
The last couple of rides I have noticed that my Cateye Strada Double Wireless (RD400DW) will send the MPH and Cadence to zero and then it will come back after a few tenths of a mile. Batteries are fresh and the setup is correct. Just wondering if anyone else with this computer can enlighten me. Thanks
 
#2 ·
I had a similar problem with my 300DW (older version) where it would head unit would cut out and come back and it turned out to be the battery contacts. I ended up just bending them a bit. The contact that touches the center was bent up just a bit and the side contact just a bit inwards.

With mine I would need to have the code's reset each time it did that but you seem to indicate yours "comes back" with out a code reset. With the 400DW do you need to reset your transmitter code after battery change? If not then I'd check the contacts in the transmitter. If yes then I doubt it's the battery or contacts. Sounds like your head unit (HU) is fine with respect to power since it sounds like it shows 0 rather than blanking out.

Other ideas are:
Magnet distance/alignment but having both cadence and speed go out at the same time would make that unlikely. They don't need to be very big to cause big problems. Not sure how you would dry it out other than time passing.

Interference - Riding by a police with radar once locked up mine and I've seen some odd numbers when I've ridden by "buzzing" power lines. But you'd notice that as in the same location all the time.

Water/Condensation - Is the unit subject to many/recent wet rides or going from cold to warmer/humid conditions? Water droplets in the HU or transmitter could really cause odd things.

Or it could just be a malfunction you won't be able to fix like the transmitter or receiver. Time will tell I guess. In a bag of uncooked rice is the low tech internet favorite!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Chances are its interference, I have a double wireless on two of my bikes and they both cut out in certain areas. Just keep riding, if the problem persists 1/4 mile later it has to be something else. If a huge frame it could be the distance or weird angles.
 
#5 ·
Just got off the phone with Cateye and after explaining the issue in some detail they offered to send me a new sensor unit gratis. This is very nice news. I sort of figured I would be SOL as I have had the thing for 3 years and probably out of warranty. Its nice when you deal with a company that knows how to do the right thing :)

It is true that certain lights cause interference with electronics. I had my headlight in blinking mode which was next to my HRM, it shot the HRM into the upper 200's and 300's. I move the HRM and all is well.
 
#10 ·
Yes that happened to us last night, my wife and I both have Specialized bikes, cat eye wireless computers and cat eye lights. All computers and lights brand new, never road at night but thought, having a strobe during the day can't hurt in high traffic areas... The minute the light goes on the computer goes off... :-(
 
#6 ·
Mine's doing the same thing, at least 3 times so far. MPH and cadence just disappears. I'll check sensor position, move through the menu and start riding again, after a bit it comes back.

Changing batteries didn't help. So it's nice to know the Cateye is sending you a new sensor.

I'll give them a call, thanks for the info.
 
#7 ·
We were having issues setting them up at our store, turns out it was due to the proximity of our Wifi. Took it out side and around the block, fires right up. Moral of the story, like the other posters said, there are many things that will cause electrical interference with this unit...
 
#9 ·
Having same problem, looks like interference and distance

I have the problem more often when I'm using the light (PlanetBike Blaze 2 watt), but sometime when I'm not using the light. I have a very large frame and the distance between the units is just short of a meter.

Fresh batteries in both parts.

I moved the receiver from the handlebar to the top tube (a very dorky look) and it seems to be working better -- both closer to the sensor and farther from the headlight.

Would like to switch to wired computer, but the wires look SO ugly.
 
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