Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,341

    S-works crankset

    How is the quality and durability of S-works carbon crankset BB30?
    Although I don't have a Specialized it will work in any BB30 bike.
    The price is similar to SRAM red, one issue I have read is one person complaining the Specialized chain ring bend easily.

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    477
    There were problems with older chainrings, but they're fine now.

    Between the 3 S-works cranksets at our house, there's ~40,000 miles on them and no problems with any of them. I have rings from 2009 and they've been great, I had a 7800 crank before and IMO the shifting is much smoother than the DA crank.

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,341
    so if the SRAM red is about the same weight (and maybe even slightly cheaper), should I still go with the S-works? The red chainring looks beefy.
    Have you tried the carbon spider?

    and any noise on your BB30s?




  4. #4
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    150
    Between the 2, I would chose SRAM Red. I am currently waiting for parts for my S-works crank. I was getting a 'creaking' in my crank. Disassembled it last weekend and found that the spider lockring was broken. (Note about the 1 o'clock position on the lockring.) This was on a 2009 Roubaix with around 6-7,000 miles. Specialized is sending a replacement part free of charge (even though it is out of warranty), but I am out of commission until it shows up.

    I like the design of the Red crank with the crankarm and spider being a single integral fabricated piece.


  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,341
    that seems to be looking pretty good for the miles, how is your 30mm spindle surface holding up?

    are you changing out the bearing while you're at it?

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    150
    Prob won't change the bearings. Feeling them they really still feel good. One of them did come out with the crank arm. Need to repress back in place. Need Loctite 290....need to pick some of that up.

    Sure wish this had waited about 4 weeks to happen. On the waiting list for a Quarq S975 power crank and this one was going on the shelf. As I sit now, I'm without a bike.

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,341
    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead65
    Prob won't change the bearings. Feeling them they really still feel good. One of them did come out with the crank arm. Need to repress back in place. Need Loctite 290....need to pick some of that up.

    Sure wish this had waited about 4 weeks to happen. On the waiting list for a Quarq S975 power crank and this one was going on the shelf. As I sit now, I'm without a bike.
    I think the more suitable is loctite 609, 640 or 680

  8. #8
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: pdainsworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    887
    Quote Originally Posted by PoorCyclist
    I think the more suitable is loctite 609, 640 or 680
    Pretty sure you're right. The 640 green sleeve locker is what we use in the shop.

    Installation manual link, if anyone needs it...

    http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/...n_Crank_r1.pdf
    -2014 Roubaix Expert with 2014 Roval CLX40 wheels
    -2013 Stumpjumper Elite FSR 29er
    -Funner ORRB (Off Road Road Bike) with whatever we had around the shop

  9. #9
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    145
    My dad has had his crankset for 3.5 years, tons of miles and the chainrings are still fine. I just swapped out my chainrings to some Specialites TA when I switched to the S Works carbon spider, only because I wanted some black rings. Now I realize I should have gone for some all black Stronglight CT2s though. Oh well, there's always next time. I think the Specialized crank is a solid piece though, can't go wrong with it!

  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    150
    Quote Originally Posted by pdainsworth
    Pretty sure you're right. The 640 green sleeve locker is what we use in the shop.

    Installation manual link, if anyone needs it...

    http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/...n_Crank_r1.pdf
    Yep, thanks for pointing that out. Looks like I need the 640 instead of 290.

  11. #11
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by PoorCyclist
    that seems to be looking pretty good for the miles, how is your 30mm spindle surface holding up?

    are you changing out the bearing while you're at it?
    I'm at 15,000 miles on my bearings right now with about 2000 of those in the rain and there is no grit or play in the bearings yet.


    Another thing to consider, If you are looking to add a powermeter in the future, the spider is replaceable in the s-works crank so you can add an SRM or Quarq without having to buy a new crank.

  12. #12
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,341
    I have been thinking about this BB30 thing, some bike's BB30 crank get pre-installed from overseas, pretty sloppy jobs also, at least on my bike, it seems to not be pressed in all the way.
    they use a thin yellow grease or lithum white grease, it's pretty thin stuff.

    if it was up to me, I would want the thick sticky grease that doesn't get displaced easily. My LBS used park grease that is blue and thick.
    The grease isn't really there to lube so much, the inner race should be spun with the spindle. nothing else should be spinning or slipping if all is working correctly.

    Although the loctite is high strength, the bearing thickness is only 7mm, not alot of surface for the glue. so it probably isn't a big deal except having to clean up residues.. (best results let it cure for 24 hours). The bearing shell is stainless.. and the BB30 shell is usually aluminum.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

INTERBIKE

Contest

Hot Deals

Interbike Featured Booths

Check out the hottest road bike products from these brands!



















See All Interbike Coverage - Click Here »


Latest RoadBike Articles


Latest Videos

RoadbikeReview on Facebook