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trek 1.2 T 2011

15K views 39 replies 19 participants last post by  SuperSixOne 
#1 ·
I bought my first modern road bike. It has the triple chain ring. It is white. Feel lighter than my 1986 Nishiki Prestigue CroMolly.
Is it normal on any triple chain ring to rub on the front deraleur when say in smallest chain ring and say mid to smallest cog? Guess its called cross chaining? I would not ever ride like that but just wondering.
Seems like a very solid bike. Sure like the brakes better than the old Dia Compe G I had.
Will have to get used to the thumb shifting. They say say there are adjustments for these. Where are they and how do you adjust them?
Thanks
 
#3 ·
DId my first 3 miles. Very smooth. Will have to get used to the 3 front deraleurs and the 2 extra cogs. Can't wait to get back on it. Tires are 700x23 which is narrower than the 700x25. Hope I'm not running the risk of a flat. Was fortunate no to get one on the 25 after 300miles of riding.
 
#6 ·
Up date on the 1.2. Man This bike outperforms me by a mile!
I did a 110miles in 6days in the Adirondack mountains of NY. Smooth as silk.
I'm not at all disappointed in the Sora shifters. Now smooth as ever. The front derailleur needs trimming to relive the rubbing some times but not a nuisance.
I did my longest ride ever 35 miles yesterday. No complaints. My average speed is picking up. About 17.5mph over the 35mi.
So have gone 250miles and no problems.
I actually have not used the smaller front chainring yet. I'm trying to see if I can just use the 34 tooth and maybe someday convert to the compact 34/50t. Any thoughts on that idea? Probably need to get different rear derailleur and front left shifter.
I'm hoping to get a fluid trainer for the winter.
Anyone heard of Kurt Kinetic. Sounds real solid.
Mark
 
#13 · (Edited)
Up date on the 1.2. Man This bike outperforms me by a mile!
I did a 110miles in 6days in the Adirondack mountains of NY. Smooth as silk.
I'm not at all disappointed in the Sora shifters. Now smooth as ever. The front derailleur needs trimming to relive the rubbing some times but not a nuisance.
I did my longest ride ever 35 miles yesterday. No complaints. My average speed is picking up. About 17.5mph over the 35mi.
So have gone 250miles and no problems.
I actually have not used the smaller front chainring yet. I'm trying to see if I can just use the 34 tooth and maybe someday convert to the compact 34/50t. Any thoughts on that idea? Probably need to get different rear derailleur and front left shifter.
I'm hoping to get a fluid trainer for the winter.
Anyone heard of Kurt Kinetic. Sounds real solid.
Mark
Switching from a triple to a double is essentially a whole drivetrain swap. Front derailleur, crankset, both shifters, and a 10 speed cassette and chain, unless you want to stay with the 9 speed, but you would be better suited with a 10 speed for the extra range it gives you with the compact. While not absolutely necessary, you may also want to consider swapping the rear derailleur too for one with a shorter cage and crisper shifting you get with it.

So with that in mind, ride your triple, enjoy it. Then when you feel the need to "upgrade" get a 105 group for the best price you can find and swap it over. You may also want to consider doing the brake calipers too. That is one of the single most noticeable things you can upgrade on your bike, and the 105 and better Shimano brakes are without peer.

The alternative is to keep the 1.2 as is and use as a rain/beater/second bike, and just get a new bike to the specs that you and your fitness and style of riding has grown into.

The Kurt Kinetic trainers are good stuff, although I personally don't use them.

HTH
zac
 
#7 ·
Use the trimming function. When you're on the middle chainring, you can lightly move the shifter until you hear one click. This moves the front derailleur just enough so the chain won't touch it. Also keep in mind that the chain will sometimes rub against the bigger chainring when you're on the smaller ones. And in this case there is nothing you can do, but move the chain to a different cog.
 
#8 ·
I just discovered the chain rubbing on the larger chainring when I'm in the middle chainring and using the 2 smallest cogs. Thought I was imagining it but when I cleaned the bike I noticed the chain marks on the large ring. I have to be more cognizant of what gears I'm in.
 
#9 ·
I just recently bought my first road bike. I use to ride MNT bikes. I also bought a Trek.

2012 Trek 1.2
Shimano Sora/Tiagra
Profile Design T+ Viper Carbon (because of serious herniated/bulging discs in my lower back)

I've out about 500 miles on her in just under 4 weeks and love it!
 
#14 ·
Hi all, I too just bought a 1.2 two months ago. 2010 (red/black) model. The LBS had it priced under the 2011 so this being my first real bike, I figured I could throw the savings into some other options.

I used to ride an old Cannondale mountain bike which has served me well over the years.

I have only put on about 150 miles so far, but will be adding more soon. I have a routine down now where I ride to work (13 miles total) so that feels great to be out in the morning and evening.

Looking forward to getting to know this group and my bike :)

David
 
#15 ·
Congratulations on the new bikes. Remember to register your bike for the warranty and then ride, ride, ride!

The alternative is to keep the 1.2 as is and use as a rain/beater/second bike, and just get a new bike to the specs that you and your fitness and style of riding has grown into.
Yeah, I'd do this rather than replace the drivetrain on a 1.2. After a year or two you'll be hankering after a shiny new bike...
 
#24 ·
I've got 680mi on the bike now. Really like it. No problems. Using a trainer sure is different. No wind,glasses,helmet or gloves needed. However a fan really is necessary. I sweat beyond belief. I used the Kinetic by Kurt trainer and DVD. Legs were a hurting after 1 hr. I've ridden 2 hrs without that kind of workout.
The Doughnutman. Were from in the Dak's? My brother in law and father in law did a daily ride to THE DOUNUT SHOP in EagleBay just outside of Inlet. Did Big Moose Lake ride one day about 25miles. Did the loop from Old Forge around south shore rd and then Inlet to Eagle to Old Forge. 25mi with to Cat 5 hills. Great rides.
 
#25 ·
I am in market for a racing bike, for the money I have I'm in the so-called entry level bike price point, my LBS advertises the 2011 Trek 1.2 for $980....I"m knocked out by the pricing and specs of these entry levels, whether it be Trek, Specialized, you name it...just wondering, all comments on my LBS website says the 1.2 has an uncomfortable seat...at point of purchase, if I "demanded"/ "bargained" for a seat such as Fizik Arione or Alliante, and also tire upgrade to Michelen Pro3...to replace the Bontrager T1s that come with the 1.2? Thoughts?
 
#33 ·
Don't eschew the OEM equipment on the bike because it isn't a "name" like Fizik or Michelin. The parts all work well and you should use them until they wear out. As for the saddle, try it out for comfort; a Fizik doesn't guarantee comfort (I haven't found a Fizik that worked for me & I've been riding for over 20 yrs), which is why they have many models.

There is no way a bike shop can swap them out without charging you - there's so little markup (for the LBS) on a bike - it's not like clothing with a 200-300% markup.

The equipment won't hold you back. One of my racing friends is an LBS owner and his components are his customer's castoffs (Tiagra, etc) and rides a steel bike - he's generally in the top 15 at the finish.
 
#26 ·
There is nothing wrong with the 1.2 seat. I use padded Performance brand cycling shorts and can go 35mi without a problem. I have nearly 700mi in 3 months in that saddle. I don't understand peoples problem with the seat.
What exactly do people complain about? I had a thick padded seat on my other road bike and I think I bounced too much using it.
Nope. No problem with the seat.
 
#28 ·
I thought my stock saddle on a Trek 2.1 was a rock at first but once you get the bike fit right, hard saddles are often more comfy than cushy ones... It just takes careful adjustment, tiny changes, 1mm at a time etc and a lot of patience to get the saddle in the right place.

The tyres may be relatively hard and heavy but I rode the Bontragers on my 2.1 till the sidewalls started splitting. They lasted well and I only had one flat in 18 months. I do like my new Contis more but I'm glad I wore the original tyres out first. They're fine.

Of course, if you can negotiate better parts at great prices or as part of the deal, and your LBS is willing to do that, more power to you. Just don't bust out your wallet and pay $$$ for immediate changes you might not need.
 
#29 ·
Of course, if you can negotiate better parts at great prices or as part of the deal, and your LBS is willing to do that, more power to you. Just don't bust out your wallet and pay $$$ for immediate changes you might not need.
The LBS has a 2011 Trek 1.2 on sale in my size for 760, and they said that while they understand that the Bontrager tires on it are basically just ok, it would be a waste to replace them right away with, say, Conti Gatorskin.....that I should just wear the Bontragers out. On my 10 speed, I rode maybe 70 miles in all of 2011, which is 70 miles more than in all of 2005-2010, and so now I'm worried about tires on the new bike....I guess the somewhat competitive nature of the many long rides sponsored regularly in this NYC suburban area by bicycle clubs that I want to try to keep up with has me thinking too much.... but what about that comment about upgrading the brake pads on the 1.2?
 
#31 ·
Actually, the Trek 1.1 and 1.2 are pretty close in specs...I mean, the shifters are Soras in both, altho the rear derailleur on the 1.2 is Tiagra....not sure most of us entry level folk would even notice diff, unless you're racing...... but I'm going to test drive them this weekend if it ever stops raining in NYC area....my LBS has a black 2011 1.1 on sale for 600, about 160 less than the 2011 1.2....any thoughts on comparison between 2011 Trek 1.1 and 1.2?
 
#32 ·
1.2 has a carbon fork, makes the ride less of a filling-rattler if you have bumpy or poorly surfaced roads. All-aluminium framesets are reputedly quite harsh.

The Sora/Tiagra 9-speed drivetrain is also rather less outdated than the 2300-series 8-speed on the 1.1. Worth going for the 1.2 IMO, the 1.1 is really bare-bones basic.

Edit: the above is based on what may be the 2012 specs... I still think the 1.2 is the bare minimum for entry level if you're at all interested in riding for pleasure! :thumbsup:
 
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