Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 42 of 42
  1. #26
    Huge in Japan
    Reputation: craiger_ny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    312
    You estimated that you needed approximately .020 worth of shim, you should not have needed to order .001 shims to be honest. Outside of a machine shop shimming in .001 increments is finite stuff man. For reference a human hair or a piece of paper is on average around four times as thick as that.

    None the less, if you feel that you must shim in .001 increments as long as the shim is not too badly kinked it is usable, you may even be able to satisfactorily flatten the kinked ones depending on how bad they are (but they won't be exactly .001, there will be some error).

    If you do use the .001 shims sandwich them between thicker ones (not sure what other thicknesses you ordered).
    Last edited by craiger_ny; 04-29-2017 at 05:00 PM.
    Interwebs bumpersticker goes here

  2. #27
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    2,476
    Well, this was a smashing success.

    I ended up making some adjustments to the brake caliper location. I basically moved them as far outboard as they could go. I then proceeded to put shims on the hubs and try the fit until I had the rotor centered between the pads with both sets of wheels.

    It's kind of interesting that they were fairly consistent for the two rear wheels, but the front was off by about .1mm between the DT Swiss/Enve wheel and the White Industries/HED wheel. Not sure why that would be.

    The spacers I ended up using were the .1 mm thick x 35mm ID ones, and I used two of them on the front White Industries hub. One was enough for the other three wheels.

    Link: https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a244/=17eygy3

    Here are some pictures of the WI hub with two .1mm shims on it.

    NOTE: The 35mm (and 1 3/8") ID shims are just a hair smaller than the outer diameter of the rotor lock spline. They had to be 'forced' on (I used the brake rotor to 'press' them over the notches).
    I don't think this would work with a thicker shim without enlarging the hole slightly (certainly feasible).





    I took both sets of wheels out for test rides today, and swapped wheels a couple of times just to be sure I had it right, and they are perfect now.

    Thanks for the tips November Dave (and the awesome wheels too). Now to get ready for the Gravel Race in a few weeks.

    (Edited to correct the actual shims used and shown in the pictures.)
    Last edited by Migen21; 04-29-2017 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Corrected the dimension of the shims and provided a link

  3. #28
    Huge in Japan
    Reputation: craiger_ny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    312
    Quote Originally Posted by Migen21 View Post
    I don't think this would work with a thicker shim without enlarging the hole slightly (certainly feasible).
    That's a good question. I wonder what the maximum thickness is for a shim that is still considered 'compliant' for going over the spline major diameter? Maybe November Dave has a variety of experiences or at least one experience that he can share regarding thicknesses he's worked with.

    One could cut across the shim completely in one place for installation compliance but other precautions would have to be considered.

    Glad you are up and running.
    Last edited by craiger_ny; 04-29-2017 at 05:46 PM.
    Interwebs bumpersticker goes here

  4. #29
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    2,476
    Well, the problem with this situation is, there really isn't much surface area where rotor and the rim shelf meet. Those shims are about 5mm wide, and you can see that quite a bit of it is hanging outside of the interface between the rotor and hub. You have to be really careful not to damage the shims when installing them. They are fragile. The .001 aren't much thicker than heavy aluminum foil. This is why I preferred using fewer of them in the stack in favor of the slightly thicker ones.

    I just checked and realized that the packaging on the shims is labeled:

    ID: 35mm (calipers say 34.988)
    OD: 45mm
    THICK: .1mm

    Here is a link
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#98089a244/=17eygy3

    35mm is close enough to 1 3/8" but math says it's every so slightly larger. Either will obviously work, as long as they are thin enough to be forced over the centerlock spline.

    I'll update by other post to reflect the correct details.
    Last edited by Migen21; 04-29-2017 at 05:55 PM.

  5. #30
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    721
    Why did you need to shim all 4 wheels? I would have thought you'd set the caliper position to the wheel with the most (unshimmed) outboard rotor, then shim the other hub to suit?

  6. #31
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    2,476
    Quote Originally Posted by TmB123 View Post
    Why did you need to shim all 4 wheels? I would have thought you'd set the caliper position to the wheel with the most (unshimmed) outboard rotor, then shim the other hub to suit?
    I didn't *have* to. I had some trouble with one of the wheels and needing to move the rotor in a bit, which obviously a shim can't fix. I decided to just move the calipers out all the way on the mounts, and then shim everything to fit. This way I won't have to make any future adjustments should other wheels come into play.

  7. #32
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,382
    To be clear. I have no experience with shimanos new hydraulic calipers or mounts.

    With that out of the road, I have a rather elementary question to ask. Did you try inserting a putty knife between the pads and opening them all of the way and then re-inserting the wheel and disc followed by simply pumping the levers until they self adjust?

    Forgive me for asking this as I'm pretty sure that this technique was tried without success some time ago, but, you never know.

  8. #33
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    2,476
    Nope, I didn't spread them with a putty knife, but I did wedge a tire lever in there. It helped until I applied the brakes a few times and they settled back into their normal place.

    I'm quite happy with the shims.

  9. #34
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: velodog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,947
    It ain't scissors, but clamp the shim stock between a couple of pieces of wood use a drill press to drill through the 1st layer of wood and the shim stock.

    Might work, might not. McMasters is a better idea.
    Too old to ride plastic

  10. #35
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    639
    Migen21 - Glad it worked out so well, but I knew it would.

    The reason I recommend the really thin ones is two-fold. First, there's usually not very much shimming required and the resolution afforded by the thin shims gives excellent shimming precision. Second and more importantly, the thin ones are easily(ish) installed as was proven here, with the thicker ones not so much.

    I usually give withering detail and backstory into the whys and wherefores of recommendations that I give and opinions held. This was one of the ones where a problem was presented, I knew that a perfect $8-or-so solution existed, and I figured that was that. Two pages of debate later and maybe it's back to full kimono on everything?

  11. #36
    Huge in Japan
    Reputation: craiger_ny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    312
    I imagine if the thickness approaches maybe .005 or certainly .010 one could cut across the shim in one place so that it is split in order to get it to comply with going over the spline major. But like I said this would come with other things to be cognizant of when putting everything together. But I've never had to do it.
    Interwebs bumpersticker goes here

  12. #37
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,070
    Tell me again why disc brakes are awesome?
    Well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion man. - The Dude

  13. #38
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    721
    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    Tell me again why disc brakes are awesome?
    Because this is a one time setup issue. Once you've got that dialled in, you can swap between multiple wheelsets and never have to worry about rim material, pad material, rim width etc etc. Just swap and go. A two wheel swap for me on my disc bike is around a minute. On my rim bike it's 5 to 10 minutes or more each time as I swap pads for carbon and alu wheels, change the pad angle and distance for wider rims etc. Not hard, just faffing around that I don't need to worry about with discs.
    Last edited by TmB123; 05-06-2017 at 04:26 PM.

  14. #39
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    2,476
    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    Tell me again why disc brakes are awesome?
    I was wondering how long it would take for you to show up in this thread and do your impression of a seagull shitting on stuff and flying off

  15. #40
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Migen21 View Post
    Nope, I didn't spread them with a putty knife, but I did wedge a tire lever in there. It helped until I applied the brakes a few times and they settled back into their normal place.

    I'm quite happy with the shims.
    Just got my Rm01 with the ses3.4 wheelset. Looks like I need to so the same thing as I couldn't make it perfect just adjusting on my own.

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  16. #41
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    481
    More disc love for all the haters. Had it for 2 weeks. Awesome bike


  17. #42
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    6,686
    Something about the angle of bar or maybe the color of the tape makes my eyes cringe ... but damn the rest of the bike looks tops


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Rotors for Avid bb7 one piston type calipers
    By Lookbiker in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-27-2015, 09:24 AM
  2. Disc brake rotors for cross & general riding
    By deviousalex in forum Cyclocross
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-20-2014, 10:03 PM
  3. Shimano recalled disc brake calipers
    By tihsepa in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-01-2014, 01:44 PM
  4. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-29-2013, 02:14 PM
  5. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 09-28-2012, 06:43 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •