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  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Attention all of you wheel builders.........

    What is the last wheel set you built for yourself? How long ago was this? List components, spoke count, spoke cross count, etc.

    I am currently building up a gravel disc wheelset. I am using:

    H+ Son Hydra rims.
    Shimano RS770 hubs
    DT Swiss Champion 14g spokes in silver
    DT Swiss Pro Lock, Pro Head brass nipples in silver
    32 spokes 3 cross

    I just finished the rear and I am now starting on the front.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  2. #2
    Schuylkill Trail Bum
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    Late 80s or early 90s

    Araya MTB wheels
    36 hole
    Shimano Deore XT hubs
    DT spokes (best I could buy)
    4-cross lacing

    Getting the dish and spoke tension perfect on the rear wheel took a couple of tries!

    I beat the living crap out of these wheels daily on trails the wissahickon trails NW philly fairmount park. I don't think I ever had to true them.

    Damn things are still true. Heavy weight, though, with all those loooong stainless steel spokes.

  3. #3
    pmf
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    Early 1990's

    Shimano Ultegra hubs
    Mavic Open 4 CD rims
    DT spokes (they were the best at the time)
    3-cross, used spoke prep on the threads and followed the lacing directions in Jobst Brandt's book 'The Bicycle Wheel'.

  4. #4
    wheelbuilder
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    Industry 9 Torch road hubs
    Astral Cycling Radiant rims
    CX-Ray and CD Aero Comp spokes
    alloy nipples
    20/24.

    I put 28mm Zipp Tangente tubeless tires on them and rode Battenkill for their first ride. They were perfect.

  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    June-July 2016 (rear), June 2017 - April 2018 (front)

    Campagnolo Record hubs (not sure what year), Sun CR18 rims, 36 Sapim 14 ga spokes for each wheel, brass nipples, 3 cross. Obviously, it wasn't an emergency.

    My bike now sports a true 6-7 speed rear wheel, though I'm still using my Ultra-6 freewheel. Since I don't have a tension-measuring device, I just used Sheldon Brown's guide to lacing the wheels.

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    The last set I built:
    Hubs: White Industries T11, Red, 24/28
    Rims: AForce, AL33
    Spokes: Sapim CXray, 2X both sides, front and rear
    Nipples: Sapim Brass

    I haven't even put tires on them yet.....life got in the way and I need to clean my bike and replace chain/cassette before riding them. Maybe this weekend.

  7. #7
    A wheelist
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    2 years 2 months ago (March 2016).
    Ryde Pulse Sprint rims, sub 400 grams (392 and 381g). 24/28h. Black.
    BHS Bitex hubs, lasered "Mike Tech Wheels". Black.
    Sapim CX Sprint spokes, black. Poor Man's CX-Ray. f-Radial, r-2x/1x.
    Wheel Fanatyk Splined Nipples. Green. Nipple washers.
    Permatex Anti-seize (is that an oxymoron?) spoke thread lube.
    3-in-1 Oil nipple seat lube.
    Weight 1411g.
    .
    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with motivation, information and resources.

  8. #8
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    I can't remember...might have been White Industries hubs and maybe A23 rims. Would have had DT Aerolites. I don't have them anymore so I must have sold them at some point. Probably 7 years ago.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  9. #9
    a real member's member
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    a little over a year ago. i always use the same sapim race spokes and sun m13ii rims for my vintage builds. i found some nos ofmega hubs on ebay for $80. i usually go vintage campy, but was trying to save a few bucks.
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Two weeks ago Ambrosio Nemesis, Record silver OS hubs, 28/28 Silver Sapim Race.

    Planned for today, Farsports 50mm carbon tubulars, Hope gunsmoke Mono hubs 20/24 silver Aerolites.

  11. #11
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    Nukeproof Generator DH rims
    DT Swiss 350 hub with 36t star ratchet
    DT Swiss competition spokes
    DT Swiss nipples in black
    32 hole 3 cross

    Built them sometime last year. The hubs were from a Stan's Arch wheel set I built two years ago but the 21mm internal width kind of sucked with 2.4 tires. New rims are 25mm but wishing I went with something that had 28mm internal width.

    Haven't built any road wheels yet. Seems like the gains of a high end wheel is so marginal compaired to the decent wheels that my bike came with.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    What is the last wheel set you built for yourself? How long ago was this? List components, spoke count, spoke cross count, etc.

    Fall, 2014. Velocity A23 front, Velocity A23 OC rear. DT competition 15/16 gauge, 32 spoke, cross three. Nearly 32,000 miles with only very minor tweaks to keep them true. I weigh 175-180 lb.

  13. #13
    hfc
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    My first build this past winter.

    NOS Campy Omega 19 rims
    Record Ti Hubs
    Wheelsmith DB 14 spokes.

    Put them on my Cinelli Supercorsa with Record 8 speed and I’m very pleased.

  14. #14
    Curmudgeon
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    I’ve built dozens of road and MTB wheel sets for me and my friends over the past 20 years or so. My most recent build was last summer, for my road bike:
    Industry Nine Torch Classic Road hubs, Easton R90 SL rims, DT Competition Race spokes up front, Comp Race and Comp in the back, DT Squorx alloy nipples.
    Rear 32-3X, front 28-2X. These came out really well, best pair I’ve ever assembled.

    This past winter I planned to build up a pair for my gravel bike but commissioned Elevation Wheel Company to do the work instead, and I’m very pleased with the outcome:
    White Industries XMR hubs, Nextie Premium Asymmetric rims, Wheelsmith DB14 spokes and alloy nips.
    Rear 32-3X, front 28-3X.

    Already considering my next set; XMR hubs with Light Bicycle’s new 29er gravel rims. Or I may try some Project 321 CX hubs.

  15. #15
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Last summer
    DA 9000 hubs 28/24
    CX-Ray spokes -radial/front, 3x/DS, radial/NDS
    AF 33 rims

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIF View Post
    I’ve built dozens of road and MTB wheel sets for me and my friends over the past 20 years or so. My most recent build was last summer, for my road bike:
    Industry Nine Torch Classic Road hubs, Easton R90 SL rims, DT Competition Race spokes up front, Comp Race and Comp in the back, DT Squorx alloy nipples.
    Rear 32-3X, front 28-2X. These came out really well, best pair I’ve ever assembled.

    This past winter I planned to build up a pair for my gravel bike but commissioned Elevation Wheel Company to do the work instead, and I’m very pleased with the outcome:
    White Industries XMR hubs, Nextie Premium Asymmetric rims, Wheelsmith DB14 spokes and alloy nips.
    Rear 32-3X, front 28-3X.

    Already considering my next set; XMR hubs with Light Bicycle’s new 29er gravel rims. Or I may try some Project 321 CX hubs.
    How do you like those Easton R90SL rims?

  17. #17
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Mountain: RaceFace ARC24 rims with DB14 spokes and brass nips using I9 Torch hubs. 32/32 3x throughout. Love them but about to sell them because I need to start using a new hub option.

    Road/CX disc: A set of RCG carbon disc wheels with silver CX Rays, brass nips, and WI CLDs.

    Road rim brake: Al33 rims, I9 front hub, Powertap rear, CX Rays, alloy nips.

  18. #18
    Curmudgeon
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    Quote Originally Posted by timsmcm View Post
    How do you like those Easton R90SL rims?
    One year earlier I built a MTB wheelset using Easton ARC27 rims and Hadley hubs. Those rims were very nice to work with and have proven strong in daily hard-core riding at my local ski resort. They prompted my decision to try the R90SL.
    The Easton R90SL rims are also terrific. They are very round and true to begin with which makes them easy to build a nearly perfect wheel. I measured the ERD in several locations and got consistent values. BTW the published ERD is 4 mm too small; they actually publish the nipple seat diameter. Easton now states this on their web site.
    The rim depth is 27 mm which makes them strong enough to stay true after hitting all sorts of road blemishes yet not so stiff as to be uncomfortable. I’m running 700x25c tires which plump out well on the 19.5 mm inner width.
    I recommend the R90SL rims.

  19. #19
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    Hmm....last FULL set? I've done a few 'partials' recently, but my last set was I believe a set of Performance-brand pressed bearing sorta high-flange hubs I bought mostly because they had a nice, solid flange that was larger than most, and quite capable of handling radial spoking, DT 14-15-14 swaged spokes, Campy Omega semi-aero aluminum tubular rims (19mm wide?). Fronts are radial spoked, rear 3x/radial. I put LOTS of mileage on these, and they have yet to ever need truing. I use them as a second wheelset now for my Cannondale.

    Since then, I've bought 3 sets of wheels already built (used), and converted a couple of the rears to semi-radial, since I seem to break NDS spokes with alarming regularity.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHIF View Post
    One year earlier I built a MTB wheelset using Easton ARC27 rims and Hadley hubs. Those rims were very nice to work with and have proven strong in daily hard-core riding at my local ski resort. They prompted my decision to try the R90SL.
    The Easton R90SL rims are also terrific. They are very round and true to begin with which makes them easy to build a nearly perfect wheel. I measured the ERD in several locations and got consistent values. BTW the published ERD is 4 mm too small; they actually publish the nipple seat diameter. Easton now states this on their web site.
    The rim depth is 27 mm which makes them strong enough to stay true after hitting all sorts of road blemishes yet not so stiff as to be uncomfortable. I’m running 700x25c tires which plump out well on the 19.5 mm inner width.
    I recommend the R90SL rims.
    I was talking to another guy saying not to use the easton rims. Said they were soft and had a problem cracking around the nipples. I hope that is not the case. I had my heart set on using the eastons. He said I would be better using hed belgiums.

  21. #21
    Curmudgeon
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    Quote Originally Posted by timsmcm View Post
    I was talking to another guy saying not to use the easton rims. Said they were soft and had a problem cracking around the nipples. I hope that is not the case. I had my heart set on using the eastons. He said I would be better using hed belgiums.
    I've not seen any cracking on any of my Easton rims. Perhaps in the past they had that issue but I think they improved their manufacturing process starting with the ARC series rims. The R90SL rims are certainly not “soft” in my opinion.

    I've cracked a few Mavic rims in the past, and they have a good reputation, go figure.

    The HED C2+ rims are a nice choice, as are the new Pacenti Forza. These were on my short list with the R90SL. I think they are all about equal.

  22. #22
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    I saw that post on the other forum. Can't argue if one guy has had spoke cracks but we don't know the details. We've built a couple hundred R90SL wheels in the past two years, always enjoy building them, and customers love them. Zero spoke cracks in our account. Of course that's a laughably low standard, I always chuckle at the "they haven't given me any trouble" praise people give, but the feedback we get from R90SL customers is generally of the "marked improvement over my old wheels" flavor.

    Though they are produced by the same people who make HEDs, they aren't the same rim and HEDs do have a different feel which could be interpreted as softer, but Eastons are not soft.

    One guy on there is advocating DT460 and H+ Archetypes as better than R90. Those are both ok rims, but I'm sorry there is no metric except cost in which they are superior to an Easton. I'm far from the only wheel builder to hold that opinion.

  23. #23
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Wow, lots of interesting responses!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    3-in-1 Oil nipple seat lube.
    I've been using a standard machine oil like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/CottageCutz-2...ds=machine+oil

    ....or this:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Do you think 3 in 1 is any better or is machine oil machine oil?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Fall, 2014. Velocity A23 front, Velocity A23 OC rear. DT competition 15/16 gauge, 32 spoke, cross three. Nearly 32,000 miles with only very minor tweaks to keep them true. I weigh 175-180 lb.
    32,000 miles? Whoa! I guess I should ignore all the nasty things I hear about these rims? Either that or you're light as a feather.

    How many miles do you ride in a year?

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIF View Post
    BTW the published ERD is 4 mm too small; they actually publish the nipple seat diameter. Easton now states this on their web site.
    Errors seem quite common. Just one more reason to NEVER TRUST ANYBODY ELSE'S MEASUREMENTS.

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIF View Post
    I've cracked a few Mavic rims in the past, and they have a good reputation, go figure.
    Mavic may have had a good reputation in the past, but they aren't what they used to be. There have been quite a few incidents of spoke hole cracks, especially on Open Pros.

    Quote Originally Posted by SHIF View Post
    The rim depth is 27 mm which makes them strong enough to stay true after hitting all sorts of road blemishes yet not so stiff as to be uncomfortable. I’m running 700x25c tires which plump out well on the 19.5 mm inner width.
    I recommend the R90SL rims.
    Quote Originally Posted by November Dave View Post
    Though they are produced by the same people who make HEDs, they aren't the same rim and HEDs do have a different feel which could be interpreted as softer, but Eastons are not soft.
    How does a wheel feel soft or stiff? If all other variables are the same - bike, tires, tire pressure, etc. - the only other thing that could make a wheel feel noticeably softer or stiffer would be spoke count and spoke gauge, no?
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  24. #24
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Do you think 3 in 1 is any better or is machine oil machine oil?
    I have a very exacting standards for my nipple oil. It has to be the one that's closest to hand and in a container that can dispense one drop at a time. As the nipple to seat interface is a very low tech application in the lubrication spectrum (a F1 rally car turbocharger is probably one of the highest), IMO any form of lube will do. Just use something. If bacon grease was handy I'd probably use that.
    .
    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with motivation, information and resources.

  25. #25
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    Stiff or soft in build. How much does the rim move under load? How much does it allow you to radial true it? How much movement will the nipples have before they reach final spot?

    Build a Stan's Crest rim and you'll see what I mean by soft. Properly built, the nipples will actually slightly bulge the rim (it's fine and normal and we never have spoke rip throughs on them, but they ain't stiff wheels without plenty of strong spokes). Then build a HED Belgium+. It's obvious.

    Riding wise, yes some rims are stiffer than others and spoke count and spoke gauge are not the only variables even if they are the primary ones. But in this context I mean stiff and soft in build, not in use.

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