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  1. #1
    noob roadie :)
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    Building a Chris King Mountain Hub?

    Good day,

    I picked up a classic chris king mountain hub, the low flange version. Chris King also sells an adapter to make the rear spacing 130mm, which I also bought.

    The initial wheel build came with non-existant tension on the non drive side. My wheelbuilder at the LBS said the classic CK hub with the 130mm will not allow him to disk the rim properly! I thought tensioning is a function of spoke length, and not hub spacing. Any thoughts?

    Thanks!

    Ming

  2. #2
    wheelbuilder
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    I've converted a 700c rear Chris King Classic wheel from 130mm to 135mm and back with no problem. You need to recenter the rim in a truing stand and keep an eye on tension of the spokes. The right spokes should be in the correct range recommended for the rim. Each side of spokes should be relatively even.

    -Eric

  3. #3
    noob roadie :)
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    Quote Originally Posted by ergott View Post
    I've converted a 700c rear Chris King Classic wheel from 130mm to 135mm and back with no problem. You need to recenter the rim in a truing stand and keep an eye on tension of the spokes. The right spokes should be in the correct range recommended for the rim. Each side of spokes should be relatively even.

    -Eric
    Interesting. Perhaps my mechanic got the wrong length spokes for the non-drive side? He had the drive side tensioned first, and the non-drive side spokes were literally shaking around with the 130mm adapter installed, and the rim centered.

    I'm thinking of relacing the wheels with CX Rays, so knowing this is a big factor to ordering the right spoke length

  4. #4
    wheelbuilder
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    What tension is he shooting for on the right side?

    -Eric

  5. #5
    noob roadie :)
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    Quote Originally Posted by ergott View Post
    What tension is he shooting for on the right side?

    -Eric
    He was building my Stans Alpha 340 rims. I believe Stans rims are only rated for 100kgf, so I asked him to build the wheel up to that tension

  6. #6
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    100kg with a Chris King hub will not be good. Either risk using a higher tension or use a different rim. That isn't a good combination of components.

    -Eric

  7. #7
    noob roadie :)
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    Quote Originally Posted by ergott View Post
    100kg with a Chris King hub will not be good. Either risk using a higher tension or use a different rim. That isn't a good combination of components.

    -Eric
    120kgf? Does CK hub not like a lower tension? I love CK hubs in my mtn wheels, but this is the first one I had my shop build up.

    Thanks!

    Ming

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by macming View Post
    120kgf? Does CK hub not like a lower tension? I love CK hubs in my mtn wheels, but this is the first one I had my shop build up.

    Thanks!

    Ming
    Eric can correct me if I am wrong, but I think the flange spacing on the CK hub is more the issue that is driving his recommendation to bring the tension up. The flanges must be too close together to ensure dish with lower tension, due to the bracing angle created.

  9. #9
    wheelbuilder
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    The flange spacing on the CK hub is such that with 100kgf on the right you will end up with about 48kgf on the left. That is too low. You need a hub with a smaller center to left measurement for more even tension. You can make up for the lost stiffness by using heavier gauge spokes and/or increasing the spoke count.

    With the CK hub spaced 135mm, you end up with about 58% of the right side tension instead of the 48% when 130mm.

    If you want to keep the hubs (most expensive component of the wheels), you would be better off with a rim that can stand higher tension.

    -Eric

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ergott View Post
    The flange spacing on the CK hub is such that with 100kgf on the right you will end up with about 48kgf on the left. That is too low. You need a hub with a smaller center to left measurement for more even tension. You can make up for the lost stiffness by using heavier gauge spokes and/or increasing the spoke count.

    With the CK hub spaced 135mm, you end up with about 58% of the right side tension instead of the 48% when 130mm.

    If you want to keep the hubs (most expensive component of the wheels), you would be better off with a rim that can stand higher tension.

    -Eric
    Thanks for the good explanation! Now everything makes sense.

    It looks like a 135mm spacing is the way to go if I want to keep the current rims. My frames are not complaining too much right now, it is just annoying the brakes are slightly out of adjustment when I swap the CK set in.

    I'm also thinking it is probably not worth while to rebuild a perfectly good wheelset just to get marginal improvement in aero performance with spokes. Maybe I'll wait until I trash the wheels, and look at a better combination of rims/spokes for my hubs. I really do like these Chris King hubs hehehe.

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