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  1. #1
    Journeyman Wheelsmith
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    Errant nipple stuck inside wheel -- I've tried everything

    I've never had this problem before. I built up a Pacenti SL23 wheel awhile back and while I was building it, I dropped a nipple inside. No biggie...I'll fish it out when I'm done. Forgot out about it and now I periodically hear it bouncing around when I first take off.

    Remove the wheel, rim tape, have spun it fast/slow, shook it every possible way I can think off...errant nipple won't come out.

    Ideas?

    Thanks,
    Bob

  2. #2
    .je
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    Lizard Person
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    More patience.

    That's how I did it.

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    I have a hard rubber mat over some concrete. I usually just sit there gently bang it on while holding wheel upright. It eventually bounces out .

  4. #4
    wheelbuilder
    Reputation: ergott's Avatar
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    vacuum pointed at valve or spoke hole at 6 oclock. A little shaking like that and even the worst make their way out.

  5. #5
    Boyd Cycling owner
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    You can also use the bend of a j bend spoke. I always use a 216mm, but that's only because it's the top left spoke in our spoke shelf (so I never misplace it).
    www.boydcycling.com Handcrafted Revolution

  6. #6
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Enoch562 View Post
    I have a hard rubber mat over some concrete. I usually just sit there gently bang it on while holding wheel upright. It eventually bounces out .
    This is exactly what I do...works every time.
    I work for some bike racers
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  7. #7
    Neophyte
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    Is the nipple magnetic?

  8. #8
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdog9 View Post
    Is the nipple magnetic?
    Aluminum, brass? What else is there (that normal people use)?
    Last edited by Mike T.; 08-08-2018 at 08:07 AM.
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  9. #9
    A wheelist
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    Patience Grasshopper. Everyone who has built more than a couple of wheels has probably done it. And we all survived - and won. The feeling of accomplishment when it happens is almost worth the problem.
    Last edited by Mike T.; 08-08-2018 at 08:07 AM.
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  10. #10
    changingleaf
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    Like some others have said, dribble the wheel on a hard mat or carpet with the valve hole on the bottom. It usually comes out pretty quickly.

    Dribble by letting the wheel drop about an inch, let it bounce a couple times and repeat.

  11. #11
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Thanks for the tip, I've always just shaken the rim to get the nipple to the 6:00 position and fished it out with a small pick. Vacuum should do the trick.

  12. #12
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    I never tried the bouncing or vacuum methods, either should work.

    What I did:
    A flat screwdriver with a dab of caulk on the blade.

    With the valve hole on the bottom side, insert the screwdriver from the hub side of the valve hole so that the caulk is near the bottom, then shake the rim a little to get the nipple to stick to the caulk.

  13. #13
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdog9 View Post
    Is the nipple magnetic?
    You've obviously never built a wheel.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdog9 View Post
    Is the nipple magnetic?
    Steel nipples? That would be a new one.

  15. #15
    Journeyman Wheelsmith
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    Ok, none of the above methods worked. It's not a stray nipple. It's the rim pin/joint that is moving and bouncing off one of the nipples.

    I should have found this sooner, but in my defense I have 0% hearing in left ear so directional sound is a challenge.

    What's the best method to secure the pin? I see previous punch marks in the rim bed but I'm a bit leery to do that to my nice round and true wheel.

    Bob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Errant nipple stuck inside wheel -- I've tried everything-img_0856.jpg  

  16. #16
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    Hit it w/ a punch again. Shouldn't knock it out of true, if it does you know how to fix it.
    I work for some bike racers
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    and a bunch of skateboards

  17. #17
    Huge in Japan
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    I don't think that is a pinned joint but rather a sleeved one. I have hit them with a punch to quiet them down but I have also, at the suggestion of others here, used Gorilla Glue to quiet them with success. Drip some water in and slosh it around the sleeve then add Gorilla Glue. It has worked for me.
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  18. #18
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by craiger_ny View Post
    I don't think that is a pinned joint but rather a sleeved one. I have hit them with a punch to quiet them down but I have also, at the suggestion of others here, used Gorilla Glue to quiet them with success. Drip some water in and slosh it around the sleeve then add Gorilla Glue. It has worked for me.
    The rim is a sleeved joint with the sleeve staked (hence the punch marks) in place. Pacentis were famous for the plug rattling. My rear SL23 vII rattles. Most sleeved and staked rims have sealing goop around the plug, applied at the factory.

    It's possible to re-stake the rim (support the rim in the edge of a 2x4!) and/or dribble glue of choice through a rim bed nipple hole and let it run into the joint.
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  19. #19
    changingleaf
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    That looks like a welded rim. There is a heat-sink inside the rim at the seam area and sometimes it comes loose. You can see that it was peened into place at the seam. Just put some glue or loctite in the nearest spoke hole and let it drain next to the piece of metal. It will fill the gap and solve the problem.

  20. #20
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by craiger_ny View Post
    I don't think that is a pinned joint but rather a sleeved one. I have hit them with a punch to quiet them down but I have also, at the suggestion of others here, used Gorilla Glue to quiet them with success. Drip some water in and slosh it around the sleeve then add Gorilla Glue. It has worked for me.
    Yes, Gorilla Glue expands and cures using water. Did you put the glue in via the nearest spoke hole? Or through the joint itself? Aren't the pins inside the extrusion, so glue through the spoke hole won't reach them?

    Gorilla Glue expands a lot. Experiment on a piece of cardboard to see the expansion volume.
    Last edited by rm -rf; 08-10-2018 at 04:57 AM.

  21. #21
    Huge in Japan
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
    Yes, Gorilla Glue expands and cures using water. Did you put the glue in via the nearest spoke hole? Or through the joint itself? Aren't the pins inside the extrusion, so glue through the spoke hole won't reach them?

    Gorilla Glue expands a lot. Experiment on a piece of cardboard to see the expansion volume.
    I put it through the adjacent spoke holes then rotated the rim in all directions so that I was satisfied that it was distributed. If it were pins then you are correct that there is some likelihood that it will not get where you need it. By all appearances this is a sleeve which is a reverse image of the inside geometry of the rim extrusion which is accessible to the glue.
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  22. #22
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    Deleted.
    Last edited by Lombard; 08-21-2018 at 04:26 AM.
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