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  1. #1
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    First wheelset build! Feedback appreciated

    I'm thinking about building my first wheelset. I need campy 10 compatible wheels to complete my build, and I want a deep profile aluminum wheel in silver. I can't find a factory or a cheap custom build that meets these criteria, so i'm thinking about going it alone and learning a new skill. any feedback on my parts list?

    Parts list:
    Kinlin XR-380 24/24
    Bikehubstore superlight front hubs
    Bikehubstore superlight rear hub
    sapim laser spokes
    brass nipples

    I'm a 200 lb rider, though I'm in the process of dropping more weight (185 is my target) and I know the spoke count is low. But the XR-380 isn't offered in 28, 32, or 36 hole drillings and considering the purportedly high strength and deep profile of the rim, will 24 spokes be a big problem? Would an asymmetrical xr-380/xr-300 24/32 build be a better idea? (my everyday wheelset on my main bike is a set of Soul S3.0SL's, which seem to handle my weight ok. The wheelset could be stiffer, but the wheels are still true and i haven't popped any spokes in a thousand miles of riding.) Anything comparable the XR-380's at a reasonable price with 32h drillings?

    any idea on spoke lacing? would radial front, x3 rear be reasonable? or should i stick to x3 throughout?

    thanks guys.

  2. #2
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    I think that higher spoke count wheels are easier for a beginner to build straight. Lasers twist up so you need to hold them or learn to overshoot and go back when you tighten the nipple.

    For those rims I'd do radial front. I think 2x would work better than 3x for 24h on those hubs. The flange is small and with 3x the heads may be blocked off by spokes. If you use Race on the DS the wheel will be a bit stiffer laterally. Heck, those rims are total boat anchors, you might as well use Race all around.

    XR300s would be lighter and cheaper. I'm not sure how much aero benefit there is to 38mm vs 30mm.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericm979 View Post
    I think that higher spoke count wheels are easier for a beginner to build straight. Lasers twist up so you need to hold them or learn to overshoot and go back when you tighten the nipple.

    For those rims I'd do radial front. I think 2x would work better than 3x for 24h on those hubs. The flange is small and with 3x the heads may be blocked off by spokes. If you use Race on the DS the wheel will be a bit stiffer laterally. Heck, those rims are total boat anchors, you might as well use Race all around.

    XR300s would be lighter and cheaper. I'm not sure how much aero benefit there is to 38mm vs 30mm.
    i'm not too concerned with weight, adding up the weight of all the components ends up being 1651 grams, which is light enough for me. I'm open to using race as well, which i am assuming isn't a butted spoke? And the aero advantage from 8mm is probably minimal, but for this particular build (83 Bianchi Alloro w/ Centaur 10), i'm after a look (reminiscent of the aero campagnolo shamal/zonda wheels of the late 90's) more than I am overall performance.

    Brandon from bikehubstore informs me that 28h XR380's should be available next month, so i'll definitely go with 28/28 at a minimum.

  4. #4
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlox5 View Post
    ....Race......which i am assuming isn't a butted spoke?
    Yes it is. Sapim's non-butted spoke is the Leader or Strong.
    .
    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder's with motivation, information and resources.

    Everything above, up to that blue line, is IMO IMO.

  5. #5
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    I am at 200 lbs, and always have used 28 or 32 spoke wheels on all of my bikes. I go down small stair sets every few weeks (people walking down the ramps too slow for me) on my cross check (stock alex wheels) and hardly ever have to true them (running 32c tires at 80+ psi). more spokes are more forgiving. my friend at 185 runs 20/24 spoke wheels, and has little trouble.

    Id go with the 28 spoke wheels, build them 2x. should perform well and last you quite a while. wheels are made or broken in the stressing state- take your time at this stage of the build, the results are worth it.

  6. #6
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    If you stick with that rear wheel, you have to use Sapim Race or DT Competitions. Lasers will be too light. I don't know the flange geometry, but at least one side will be 2X. If the left side flange is more than 2.2X the flange distance of the right side, use a radial heads out of tension difference will be too great. Otherwise try to use 2X on that side.

    I wouldn't call the rear wheel idea, but it might work. If you haven't purchased the parts, consider DT RR585 rims. Heavy, but very stiff and high quality. Then you can go 24/28 or even 24/32.

    -

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ergott View Post
    If you stick with that rear wheel, you have to use Sapim Race or DT Competitions. Lasers will be too light. I don't know the flange geometry, but at least one side will be 2X. If the left side flange is more than 2.2X the flange distance of the right side, use a radial heads out of tension difference will be too great. Otherwise try to use 2X on that side.

    I wouldn't call the rear wheel idea, but it might work. If you haven't purchased the parts, consider DT RR585 rims. Heavy, but very stiff and high quality. Then you can go 24/28 or even 24/32.

    -
    BHS now has the XR-380 in a 28H, I would like to go 28/28. With this in mind, any more input on spoke lacing? Also, is paying more for a wider front hub worth it (33.65mm center to flange vs. 39.25mm center to flange?)

    Thanks alot guys. Getting ready to start this build in the next month.

  8. #8
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    update on this build:




    Finished building this wheelset last night.
    kinlin XR-380 rims, 28/28
    BHS wide flange front hub/BHS 211 Rear hub
    Radial front, 2x rear w/ sapim lasers and brass poly-ax nipples.
    and the Ti skewers BHS sells are VERY nice. very cool looking, lightweight, and a good deal for the quality imo.

    The XR380's only come in black, so i had to strip the anodizing with lye and some steel wool. Then I polished them by hand to a shine. They look dirty because they ARE dirty--greasy nipple greasing fingers + polished aluminum looks like that. Mostly used Steve Litt's excellent web page, and Mike T's tips to do the wheel build. the front was easy enough to lace up, tighten, and true. Lacing the rear wasn't as difficult as i expected, once i started doing it. What was difficult for me with the rear was getting enough dish before starting to tighten. 1 extra revolution on the DS spokes wasn't enough--i tried to add some extra spins later, and snapped a few spokes in the process. i'm glad i ordered extras. eventually, 2 extra revolutions worked for me, and i think i did a decent job truing.

    anyway, it was pretty intensive, and not exactly easy--but i found that it wasn't nearly as intimidating as i thought it would be. we'll see how they ride!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlox5 View Post
    update on this build:




    Finished building this wheelset last night.
    kinlin XR-380 rims, 28/28
    BHS wide flange front hub/BHS 211 Rear hub
    Radial front, 2x rear w/ sapim lasers and brass poly-ax nipples.
    and the Ti skewers BHS sells are VERY nice. very cool looking, lightweight, and a good deal for the quality imo.

    The XR380's only come in black, so i had to strip the anodizing with lye and some steel wool. Then I polished them by hand to a shine. They look dirty because they ARE dirty--greasy nipple greasing fingers + polished aluminum looks like that. Mostly used Steve Litt's excellent web page, and Mike T's tips to do the wheel build. the front was easy enough to lace up, tighten, and true. Lacing the rear wasn't as difficult as i expected, once i started doing it. What was difficult for me with the rear was getting enough dish before starting to tighten. 1 extra revolution on the DS spokes wasn't enough--i tried to add some extra spins later, and snapped a few spokes in the process. i'm glad i ordered extras. eventually, 2 extra revolutions worked for me, and i think i did a decent job truing.

    anyway, it was pretty intensive, and not exactly easy--but i found that it wasn't nearly as intimidating as i thought it would be. we'll see how they ride!
    Hello Charlox5, I really like your results with these rims, i am trying to get the same, but it is hard to find a good paint stripper. You said you used lye, can you tell me what brand you used or how to create that?

    Thanks much in advance!

    Best regards,

    Freek

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Freak View Post
    Hello Charlox5, I really like your results with these rims, i am trying to get the same, but it is hard to find a good paint stripper. You said you used lye, can you tell me what brand you used or how to create that?

    Thanks much in advance!

    Best regards,

    Freek
    H Plus Son Archetype has a chrome wheel, no extra work needed stripping it.

  11. #11
    grizzly moderator
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    Polished silver not chrome.
    With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important.

  12. #12
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    Since he posted the pics more than 5 years ago, you should ask if the wheels stood up.......
    I'm upping my standards;
    Up yours!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Since he posted the pics more than 5 years ago, you should ask if the wheels stood up.......
    I think that will be kind of difficult. He hasn't been on here in over a year and hasn't posted anything in almost 2 years.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventura Roubaix View Post
    H Plus Son Archetype has a chrome wheel, no extra work needed stripping it.

    Thanks

    But not he looks i am looking for...

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