Got my new WH-7900-C24-TL wheelset (pics + weights)
I have not ridden these yet and the fact that it snowed again last night means that it will be a while before these see asphalt. Wheel weights below include the valve stem + cap and stem counterweight. Tire weight is for 2 Hutchinson Fusion 3 tires. Enjoy the photos.
I received my set of the standard WH-7900-C24'S this week. I was a little disappointed with the weight at 1456 grams for the pair with rim tape. I was also hoping they'd have red nipples. Oh well, I'm sure they'll ride well. I hadn't been interested in going tubeless but now I'm starting to think the integrity of the rims without spoke holes might be an advantage. I suppose another advantage would be going without rim tape. I suspect the weight difference between the standard and the TL models might be a wash when you take out the valve stem and counter balance weight.
Making me jealous, recently purchased the 7850's SL on closeout, wanted the 7850 C24 TL's but am too cheap, then really wanted the 7900 C24 TL's but again am too cheap. Curious how they ride, and to the previous poster I hate the red nipples, black looks stealthy!
I bought a set of 7850 SLs in December on closeout and I am impressed with them. So, I just bought a set of 7900-c24-cl for my Colnago. I thought the advertised weight for a set of 7900-c24-cl was less than 1400 grams! What up?
The 7850-c24-cl actually had 1380 printed in the decals. There is no such indication on the 7900-c24-cl decals. I wonder if they've gotten a little heavier by making the rim wider.
BTW I have a Lynskey R230 that I'll be putting yhese wheels on. I've been riding Reynolds DV46t's on the Lynskey but had a run of bad luck with tubulars. I'm anticipating a very smooth ride with the wh-7900's.
OP: can you or anyone define or point to information describing differences (if any besides obvious graphics) between the wh-7900-c24-tl and wh-7850-c24-tl? Thanks.
Weight of rear wheel reduced by circa 8g in the hub, front wheel increased by circa 16 gms due to beefed up hub/ axle for increased front end stiffness. Overall adv. weight of the set now 1395+ gms excl. rim tape. You can shave 20 gms by using Continental's Easy Tape rather than Shimano's stock blue tape.
Also new rear axle that is easier maintenance and bearing adjustment isn't affected by pressure of quick releases as on the 7850 C24s.
I received my set of the standard WH-7900-C24'S this week. I was a little disappointed with the weight at 1456 grams for the pair with rim tape. I was also hoping they'd have red nipples. . . . I suspect the weight difference between the standard and the TL models might be a wash when you take out the valve stem and counter balance weight.
Does the counter-weight have some impact because of the valve in the tube - perhaps a bit too much swing the other way.
Do you actually remove the counter weight? good idea? How?
Lu-Max: Very nice photos. You and I have the same camera. A few questions, please. Where was the flash mounted; what lens; what distance (approximately)? Thanks!
No weight limit. Incredible - 380 gm rims and can deal with regular Clydesdales. I am guessing that most factory alu rims on tough all purpose factory wheels like Ksyrium SL+,
R- Sys, Fulcrum 1s and top end alu Camps are around 450gms+.
@markmaxwell: I measured the rim on my 7900s using a digital caliper = 21.3mm from outside brake surface to outside brake surface. They may also weigh a tad more due to the lack of rim bed spoke holes.
@DonDenver: I just checked the Shimano North America site, they have yet to post any info on the 7900 other than this PDF
@nickma: no rim tape required with the 7900-TL
@pablotn: no idea. They are alloy with the carbon top wrap so they should be pretty stout vs. an all carbon wheel. Spoke count is 16F (radial) and 20R (2X) so that may limit rider weight.
@rgordin: my mistake on the counterweight. I saw what I thought was a thin wheel balancing stick-on directly opposite of the valve stem. After closer inspection I think it is just there to cover up the weld seam. With the skewer removed both wheel balance perfectly on their sides even when bumped. With the valve stem removed the wheels tip more easily toward that weld seam area. I will send photo details in a PM, don't want to derail the thread.
One thing I do not like is that Shimano does not include a removable core valve stem ala "Stan's". I've been riding tubeless MTB tires for nearly 3 seasons with my only flat being due to tearing a tire on the edge of a piece of jagged shale. On those MTB wheels I mount the tires, remove the valve core and then seat the tire beads using an air compressor with a rubber (blower) tip on the hose. Simply hold the tip tight against the presta stem. Be certain to set the pressure regulator to ~50psi for MTB tires (I use 100 psi for road tires) This works great because there is no restriction to the air flowing through the empty valve stem so the tire beads seat instantly. After the tire beads are seated I then add the sealant using a "Stan's Injector", reinstall the valve core and inflate to normal riding pressure. No mess and no wasted sealant. Awesome!
I wanted to copy this technique with these (my first tubeless road) wheels especially since mounting the Fusion 3 tires is no easy task. Having sealant already in the tire when trying to get those last few inches over the rim lip would have gotten quite messy I fear. Neither Stan's nor Hutchinson Protect'Air Max will flow through a fully open presta valve. Caffelatex will I think, but after having watched it continuously bubble out of a friends MTB tire after he got a small puncture until the tire was completely flat left me with no confidence in that product.
So I replaced the Shimano stems with these "UST Tubelss Valve Stems" that I ordered from NoTubes.com. In the photos below you can see that they look a bit different (the NoTubes is on the left, the Shimano's are center and right) , but after finger tightening the nuts they seal perfectly on the rim. The weight is identical, and even though they do not protrude very far out of the rim my floor pump seals firmly on them.
Wow, that is some great advise. I am about sold on these wheels myself. Great feedback.
Have you decided on which sealant you will settle on? In doing some research I found this excerpt from a review on velocitynation.com:
Flats can be virtually eliminated when a tire sealant is used. Although Shimano and Hutchinson don’t recommend it I’ve been using Stan’s latex sealant (they claim that it can damage the tire) and I only got one flat this year that the sealant wasn’t able to plug up. If you get a cut in the tire that the sealant can’t handle all you have to do is put a tire boot on the cut remove the valve stem and install a standard tube. I recently put in the Hutchinson sealant (which of course is OK with Shimano and Hutchinson) and I haven’t gotten any flats so far. I’m curious to see how it works because they claim that it won’t dry up like the Stan’s does which would be great because when replacing a tire peeling off the dried Stan’s sealant is a pain.
Was back in 2009 so it might be slightly dated. Not sure if this is even a issue with Stans anymore. Maybe some of the Stans users can chime in. Maybe not fair to classify it as a issue...just a observation.
I'm definitely planning to ditch the Shimano blue tape. I think I might go with Veloplugs instead. My first impression is that the wheels feel very solid laterally yet comfortable. I'm looking forward to getting some miles on these wheels to see how they feel climbing and in the wind.
Well I decided to pull the trigger on these wheels. Have always wanted a pair of Shimano factories and these are a good start. I have liked the looks of their wheelsets, and the 2011 versions look sweet IMO. They also are very strong performers and I don't think I will be disappointed.
Thanks to Lu-Max for this thread and all the great information shared, and thanks to others who contributed. Pretty much sealed it for me.
Looking at the image the valve stem might be a tad short to get a pump head locked onto it once it is mounted, and with only part of the stem threaded I am not certain if tightening it to the rim would work or not.
My $.02
@nickma - those are the ones I am using, the "UST" model. The Stan's "Olympic" are for their ZTR series rims, and the Stan's "Standard" is too wide for the Shimano road tubeless rim (I tried one at the LBS)
I think I will take advantage of Lu-Max's experience with this rather than carring out an experiment.
I was also interested to read of your experience on bikeforums with the Fusion 3 and their leaking sidewalls. My wheel components will be exactly the same as yours and I eagerly await your results with the Hutchinson sealant.
If anyone missed it, the first set of Fusion 3 tires I got each had a thin spot in the sidewall that would leak air. Not the entire sidewall, just one spot on each tire. The dealer agreed with me and ordered me two new ones which will be here this week.
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Originally Posted by markmaxwell
