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  1. #1
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    info on general tire info needed.

    hey guys. since im new to roadie side of things. can someone please give me some info or a good link to learn about the wheel/tires?

    i see guys referencing numbers. tire widths etc. etc.
    im lost. lol

    any help would be great

  2. #2
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    Good old Sheldon's site, RIP. Loads of other excellent stuff there. Something in particular you're looking for?

  3. #3
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    ok got it. thanks. i read that link. all makes sense. didnt realize they were just using mm mostly.

  4. #4
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    just buy Continental 4000s for clinchers (700x23). If you want 'exotic' clinchers get the Continental attack/force combo (front and rear specific tires, 700x22 and 700x24). If you want to be trendy, buy 4000s in 700x25 but only if you have wide rims. Buy them from a UK site on sale or amazon for the attack/force.

    That's all you need to know. Seriously. That will save you hours of 'research' that could be better spent riding your bike!

  5. #5
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    This one brand tire for all people is nonsense. All you have to do to make sure you get a decent tire for a decent price is to shop the big cycling internet stores like Performance Bike and Nashbar (their both the same company but have different products) Go to the tire section select sort by percent off, then find tires with the best reviews. Doing it that way will save you at the very least a third of the cost of a Continental 4000s and most of todays tires will last at least as long, ride just as good, be just as puncture resistant has a Conti and maybe better then a Conti.

    Reading reviews on various tires will give you all the insight you need to know about how good a particular brands model is. Don't rely on one review though, make sure it has at least five.

    If money is no object for you and your limited on time then get whatever tire at an LBS they recommend and don't worry about it because most modern tires are decent.

  6. #6
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    The problem with Nashbar and Performance is that they often dump tires that are poor selling (because they aren't very good, such as certain Maxxis and Kenda tires). Instead of 'researching' reviews, just go to places like probikekit and get 4000s - there isn't a tire that is better in terms of combined score of all attributes. You can find them for under $40/tire shipped including tax, both of which are add ons at Performance/Nashbar. You can also wait for the UK sites to have discount codes and stock up.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevesbike View Post
    just buy Continental 4000s for clinchers (700x23).
    And you'd stick by this info if he was 275lbs? The fellow wants good help.
    .
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    And you'd stick by this info if he was 275lbs? The fellow wants good help.
    im up there....lol. 235.lb w/gear 6'3"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.rod View Post
    im up there....lol. 235.lb w/gear 6'3"
    And the best he could do was to advise you to get skinny-guy tires. You need 25mm tires at least - and pumped to a max of 105psi or so. 95 might be great.
    .
    Mike The Bike's home wheelbuilding info - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilder information and motivation.

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  10. #10
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    Re: info on general tire info needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by c.rod View Post
    im up there....lol. 235.lb w/gear 6'3"
    Maxxis Refuse 25
    Seriously bulletproof tire. Cheap too. I have the 23 on the rear of my main ride. Got sick of expensive tires constantly getting flats.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    You need 25mm tires at least
    I agree with Mike on this one, a 25c with a supple rubber compound will serve you well. I have found the Continental and Bontrager both do a great job at this without sacrificing durability.

  12. #12
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    Ok, I was being semi-facetious, since there is already a ton of threads on 'which tire to get' though I did mention the 25mm 4000s as an option. Seriously, though, you're not going to get a better tire than a 4000s all things considered, not the least of which is production QC. Even premium tires like the ultremo have had production run issues that involve recalls.




    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    And the best he could do was to advise you to get skinny-guy tires. You need 25mm tires at least - and pumped to a max of 105psi or so. 95 might be great.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevesbike View Post
    Ok, I was being semi-facetious, since there is already a ton of threads on 'which tire to get' though I did mention the 25mm 4000s as an option. Seriously, though, you're not going to get a better tire than a 4000s all things considered, not the least of which is production QC. Even premium tires like the ultremo have had production run issues that involve recalls.
    I've never tried those Continentals and I might if I didn't have a bunch of Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX in stock - a tire that has given me perfect performance for 4.5 years. The Contis couldn't work any better than the Vittorias though.
    .
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  14. #14
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    good example: the CX beats the 4000s in road feel since it's built on a higher tpi carcass but the general consensus is that the CX is less durable and more flat prone - the OP could spend a few weeks distilling that over hundreds of internet discussions about tire choice. The CX is closer to the Conti supersonic. The virtue of the 4000s is that it's essentially a training carcass with a high performance rubber compound so what is sacrificed in terms of road feel (which if the OP really wants should be riding tubulars) is made up in terms of durability and puncture protection (the vectran 4000s protection belt is also better than the CX).

    There are tons of discussions about tires that the OP can find easily - he can make up his own mind about tires, but it's also easy to get lost in endless discussion about Crr, aero features (dimples on tires, bontrager 'wings'), tire profile matching rim profile, etc. when the short answer is just buy the 4000s and ride.



    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    I've never tried those Continentals and I might if I didn't have a bunch of Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX in stock - a tire that has given me perfect performance for 4.5 years. The Contis couldn't work any better than the Vittorias though.
    Last edited by stevesbike; 05-24-2013 at 06:16 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevesbike View Post
    good example: the CX beats the 4000s in road feel since it's built on a higher tpi carcass but the general consensus is that the CX is less durable and more flat prone - the OP could spend a few weeks distilling that over hundreds of internet discussions about tire choice. The CX is closer to the Conti supersonic. The virtue of the 4000s is that it's essentially a training carcass with a high performance rubber compound so what is sacrificed in terms of road feel (which if the OP really wants should be riding tubulars) is made up in terms of durability and puncture protection (the vectran 4000s protection belt is also better than the CX).
    There are tons of discussions about tires that the OP can find easily - he can make up his own mind about tires, but it's also easy to get lost in endless discussion about Crr, aero features (dimples on tires, bontrager 'wings'), tire profile matching rim profile, etc. when the short answer is just buy the 4000s and ride.
    As I average one flat per year on my Vitts (sometimes none, last year three), tread cuts are not an issue and tire wear is totally acceptable to me, I don't have any issues with my Vitts. I use Supersonics on my track bike (I train in winters on an indoor board velodrome and use 130psi) and Supersonics would never be my choice for a road tire (mine all weigh 160g) except for a special road race or time trial (neither of which I do anymore). Maybe the 4000s would be more "durable" on the road than my Vitts but as I don't have any issues in that department with my Vitts then................

    Others' finding may vary of course.
    .
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  16. #16
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    I run Vittoria diamante pista pro's on my track bike clinchers and Vittoria pista tubulars, so have nothing against Vittoria. General consensus in So Cal, though, is that Conti clinchers fare better than CX on the road.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    As I average one flat per year on my Vitts (sometimes none, last year three), tread cuts are not an issue and tire wear is totally acceptable to me, I don't have any issues with my Vitts. I use Supersonics on my track bike (I train in winters on an indoor board velodrome and use 130psi) and Supersonics would never be my choice for a road tire (mine all weigh 160g) except for a special road race or time trial (neither of which I do anymore). Maybe the 4000s would be more "durable" on the road than my Vitts but as I don't have any issues in that department with my Vitts then................

    Others' finding may vary of course.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevesbike View Post
    General consensus in So Cal, though, is that Conti clinchers fare better than CX on the road.
    Maybe our roads are better up here in Canada.
    .
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevesbike View Post
    The problem with Nashbar and Performance is that they often dump tires that are poor selling (because they aren't very good, such as certain Maxxis and Kenda tires). Instead of 'researching' reviews, just go to places like probikekit and get 4000s - there isn't a tire that is better in terms of combined score of all attributes. You can find them for under $40/tire shipped including tax, both of which are add ons at Performance/Nashbar. You can also wait for the UK sites to have discount codes and stock up.
    This is true to some degree, but they also sell tires at huge discounts that have gotten rave reviews, just check their reviews and other reviews on the internet before you buy. And Pro racers do not ride exclusively on Conti tires there are quite a few manufactures they ride on with no unusual problems in any aspect, that must tell you something that Conti are not the only good tires on the market. In fact Conti tires are on fewer race teams then other manufactures.

    Lets get real here.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevesbike View Post
    The problem with Nashbar and Performance is that they often dump tires that are poor selling (because they aren't very good, such as certain Maxxis and Kenda tires). Instead of 'researching' reviews, just go to places like probikekit and get 4000s - there isn't a tire that is better in terms of combined score of all attributes. You can find them for under $40/tire shipped including tax, both of which are add ons at Performance/Nashbar. You can also wait for the UK sites to have discount codes and stock up.
    Stock up with UK priced tires is what I do. When I can find a top-rated tire like the Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX, 320tpi, for $33 (at Ribble in the UK last December) I'm not about to pay local prices, of twice $33 and more, for lesser quality tires.
    .
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  20. #20
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    i should also mention. im not racing. just training.
    and i live in MI. our roads are pure sh#@$. so i do need something a little more on the durable side compared to a full blown race tire if that exists...

    i know flats are innevitable sometimes, but proper tire choice might help avoid so many?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.rod View Post
    i should also mention. im not racing. just training.
    and i live in MI. our roads are pure sh#@$. so i do need something a little more on the durable side compared to a full blown race tire if that exists...

    i know flats are innevitable sometimes, but proper tire choice might help avoid so many?
    If you want flat protection, I love my Maxxis Refuse. Not the most supple tire or best handling but tough as nails. Gatorskins and Armadillos also get very high marks for this.

    I use a Refuse on the rear and a Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick on the front. The Rubino is a fairly tough tire in its own right but a little better handling, less resistance IMO.

    Flats are most likely to occur on the rear, so I like this combo.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.rod View Post
    i should also mention. im not racing. just training.
    and i live in MI. our roads are pure sh#@$. so i do need something a little more on the durable side compared to a full blown race tire if that exists...

    i know flats are innevitable sometimes, but proper tire choice might help avoid so many?
    That's right, that's why most tires are geared toward the non racer, or the person training as a pro racer but has to train on streets like the rest of us, thus they put in flat protection measures to ward off flats, some do a better job then others this is true, but there is more then one brand of tire that excel at that job.

  23. #23
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    your two posts about pro racers sorts of miss the point. Almost all pros race on tubulars, which aren't being discussed in this thread. A clincher that tries to be like a race tubular (e.g., some Veloflex models) are obviously not appropriate for training on poor roads. Most clinchers have a puncture protection belt, but it does not extend to the sidewalls except in some like a gatorskin that have a bead-to-bead layer of duraskin. Such tires represent a tradeoff between performance and protection that may be worth it depending on road surfaces, thorns, etc. Sidewalll construction itself is also important for durability and puncture protection, from a light cotton casing to a tougher carcass (which was my earlier remark about the 4000s being essentially a training carcass with a performance rubber compound and a very good vectran belt).







    Quote Originally Posted by froze View Post
    That's right, that's why most tires are geared toward the non racer, or the person training as a pro racer but has to train on streets like the rest of us, thus they put in flat protection measures to ward off flats, some do a better job then others this is true, but there is more then one brand of tire that excel at that job.

  24. #24
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    Hi so I just got my wheels and tires. I am having a hard time stretching the tubular onto the rim. Is there a trick to getting it on there? Thanks. My tire is a tufo s33.

  25. #25
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    Nevermind, brute force did it.

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