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  1. #1
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    Looking for 23c tires for centuries with strong sidewalls

    It's time for to start hitting the road again to train up for a few centuries in the fall. Unfortunately, I do not trust the tires that I currently have on my bike right now. I have had way too many sidewall failures on those 23c Conti GP4000s for comfort.

    What tires do you recommend for a "clydesdale" (230 lbs) riding a Trek 2.3 with a 64cm frame and who enjoys long rides at a 15-20mph pace? Strong sidewalls are important for peace of mind.

  2. #2
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swiper View Post
    It's time for to start hitting the road again to train up for a few centuries in the fall. Unfortunately, I do not trust the tires that I currently have on my bike right now. I have had way too many sidewall failures on those 23c Conti GP4000s for comfort.

    What tires do you recommend for a "clydesdale" (230 lbs)
    Tires that are NOT 23c!

  3. #3
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    In the catagory of very smooth race worthy high TPI tires I think Vittoria Paves are very strong. They don't come in 23 which in your case shouldn't be a problem.
    They recently went from 24mm to 25mm and 27mm. There's still a lot of the 24mm version on the market.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Tires that are NOT 23c!
    I take it you recommend 25c instead? I never had any problems with the sidewalls on the default 23c Bontrager tires that originally came with the bike. The sidewall failures on my GP4000s was associated with either misaligned brakes or hitting a curb at low speed, but I would agree that weight could be a factor in the failures.

    I have been thinking getting 25c but was unsure if they would fit the default wheels that came with my 2012 Trek 2.3 64cm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    In the catagory of very smooth race worthy high TPI tires I think Vittoria Paves are very strong. They don't come in 23 which in your case shouldn't be a problem.
    They recently went from 24mm to 25mm and 27mm. There's still a lot of the 24mm version on the market.
    Thanks for the suggestion. I will take a look at the 25mm option.

  6. #6
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swiper View Post
    I take it you recommend 25c instead?
    I'd recommend 28's.
    You can run lower pressure, smoother ride, and faster ride.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I'd recommend 28's.
    You can run lower pressure, smoother ride, and faster ride.
    Yep, at 230 you should not be on 23's. i second 28's or at least 25's
    Isnotimpressedbystoreboughtplasticbikes

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tihsepa View Post
    Yep, at 230 you should not be on 23's. i second 28's or at least 25's
    I'll recommend the same, first choice 28mm if they fit, 25mm if they don't.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swiper View Post
    I take it you recommend 25c instead? I never had any problems with the sidewalls on the default 23c Bontrager tires that originally came with the bike. The sidewall failures on my GP4000s was associated with either misaligned brakes or hitting a curb at low speed, but I would agree that weight could be a factor in the failures.I have been thinking getting 25c but was unsure if they would fit the default wheels that came with my 2012 Trek 2.3 64cm.
    The recommendation to use bigger than 23mm at your weight doesn't really have much to do with durability (you could definitely find a 23mm that would be durable) but has to do with a more comfortable ride. Unless you're riding on glass smooth roads you really should give 25mm or bigger a try especially in the rear.
    You'll be able to avoid pinch flats at a lower air pressure than you need on 23mm tires and that'll definitely smooth things out with no negative trade off.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Tires that are not 23c!
    exactly

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    Thanks everyone for your kindness and input. This evening I went to the local store and picked up a set of 28c gatorskins. I mounted them and pumped them up to 105. I took a ride around the block and everything seems to be in alignment. I must say that those tires looks HUGE while riding. What pressure should keep them at?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swiper View Post
    Thanks everyone for your kindness and input. This evening I went to the local store and picked up a set of 28c gatorskins. I mounted them and pumped them up to 105. I took a ride around the block and everything seems to be in alignment. I must say that those tires looks HUGE while riding. What pressure should keep them at?
    230lbs? 90-95 rear, 80-85 front. At the most.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  13. #13
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    Weight has little to do tire width. I'm currently at 270 down from 360 and I am currently running 23mm 4000s with no issues on my Specialized and 25mm Gatorskins on my Fuso Lux and I don't notice any difference between them. Yes, going with a wider tire may make the ride a little more plush however if that was what I was after I would ride a full suspension mountain bike with 2.25" tires.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by azracer95 View Post
    Weight has little to do tire width. I'm currently at 270 down from 360 and I am currently running 23mm 4000s with no issues on my Specialized and 25mm Gatorskins on my Fuso Lux and I don't notice any difference between them. Yes, going with a wider tire may make the ride a little more plush however if that was what I was after I would ride a full suspension mountain bike with 2.25" tires.
    Wow, 1 post and your reputation regarding tires and inflation is sealed. You truly do not know what you're talking about. Do some research and pay attention to the numerous threads on the forum regarding rider weight, tire size/pressure.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Wow, 1 post and your reputation regarding tires and inflation is sealed. You truly do not know what you're talking about. Do some research and pay attention to the numerous threads on the forum regarding rider weight, tire size/pressure.
    First off I was not claiming to be an expert by any means and if I came across that way I appologize, it was not my intention. I was only sharing my experiences since I am a clyde like the original poster.

    So cxwrench, since you have made over 6700 posts which obviously makes you an expert because of this why don't you enlighten us as to why 23mm/25mm tires won't work for a clyde??

  16. #16
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    To the last I grapple with thee; from hell's heart I stab at thee; for hate's sake I spit my last breath at thee.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swiper View Post
    I take it you recommend 25c instead? I never had any problems with the sidewalls on the default 23c Bontrager tires that originally came with the bike. The sidewall failures on my GP4000s was associated with either misaligned brakes or hitting a curb at low speed, but I would agree that weight could be a factor in the failures.

    I have been thinking getting 25c but was unsure if they would fit the default wheels that came with my 2012 Trek 2.3 64cm.
    25s would be better for you.
    Adjust your brakes properly.
    Don't run up against curves.
    Don't blame the tires if you run up against curves, or don't adjust your brakes properly.
    I've run Bontrager R3s and Conti GP4000s. Maybe the Bontragers are a bit more flat resistant. I've had flats on both (more on the Bontrager, but in fairness I used them longer) and Contis just ride much better.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Social Climber View Post
    25s would be better for you.
    Adjust your brakes properly.
    Don't run up against curbs.
    Don't blame the tires if you run up against curbs, or don't adjust your brakes properly.
    I've run Bontrager R3s and Conti GP4000s. Maybe the Bontragers are a bit more flat resistant. I've had flats on both (more on the Bontrager, but in fairness I used them longer) and Contis just ride much better.
    FTFY. Sounds spot on otherwise.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    FTFY. Sounds spot on otherwise.
    Ugh. I knew that!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by azracer95 View Post
    enlighten us as to why 23mm/25mm tires won't work for a clyde??
    The contact patch produced by a tire is the weight applied to the wheel divided by the pressure in the tire. 100 lbs of weight and 100 psi in the tire = 1 square inch of contact area. The narrower the tire is the more it has to deform to generate that contact patch. Tire deformation is the source of rolling resistance (hysteresis effects) and yet lack of tire deformation due to high pressures means increased suspension losses because the tire cannot conform to road surface irregularities and instead "bounces" over them, sending that energy into the rider's body where it is lost. For heavy riders and narrow tires, tires must be pumped pretty hard to prevent pinch flats and that means poor traction, discomfort, and faster tire wear.

    Other than that, narrow tires pumped to high pressure with heavy riders are just fine.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by azracer95 View Post
    First off I was not claiming to be an expert by any means and if I came across that way I appologize, it was not my intention. I was only sharing my experiences since I am a clyde like the original poster.

    So cxwrench, since you have made over 6700 posts which obviously makes you an expert because of this why don't you enlighten us as to why 23mm/25mm tires won't work for a clyde??
    Number of posts has nothing to do w/ it other than you letting people know that tires/inflation are not your strong point from the beginning.
    I think Kerry has done quite a nice job of explaining the idea in his post. After reading that would you still think your comments were truthful enough to use them as advice for others? What you're saying is that it makes complete sense for a 100lb woman to ride the same size tire, inflated to the same pressure as a 270lb guy.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  22. #22
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    I weigh 225 and have been riding 25c or 23c depending on availability, what's on sale, and what I may have read a good review on. With 23c I run about 110 rear and 105 front psi, with 25c I drop those maybe 5psi. In my experience there is more effect on ride quality by switching tire brands/models than what you get from switching from 23 to 25 tires and dropping a couple psi.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom93r1 View Post
    I weigh 225 and have been riding 25c or 23c depending on availability, what's on sale, and what I may have read a good review on. With 23c I run about 110 rear and 105 front psi, with 25c I drop those maybe 5psi. In my experience there is more effect on ride quality by switching tire brands/models than what you get from switching from 23 to 25 tires and dropping a couple psi.
    That because a couple of psi make pretty much no difference. When i go from 23 to 25 I will drop 10-15psi from each tire, depending on the tire. As you say, the brand/quality of the tire does make a big difference.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Number of posts has nothing to do w/ it other than you letting people know that tires/inflation are not your strong point from the beginning.
    I think Kerry has done quite a nice job of explaining the idea in his post. After reading that would you still think your comments were truthful enough to use them as advice for others? What you're saying is that it makes complete sense for a 100lb woman to ride the same size tire, inflated to the same pressure as a 270lb guy.
    Kerry has some good points however there are variables that come into play. A lighter rider running a lower air pressure vs a heavier rider running a higher pressure could still have the same contact patch after deflection. While the ride may be a little rougher because of the higher pressure for the heavy rider with both tires having the same contact patch wear and traction should be similar. Now a light rider running a narrow tire at a high pressure reducing the contact patch and a heavy rider at a low pressure causing too much deflection, both of which could lead to traction and other issues.

    I never said a 270lb rider could run the same tire and pressure as a 100lb rider what I said was 270lb rider could run 23mm tires.

    Another thing to take into consideration is the tire itself. My 23mm 4000s measure just over 23.5mm inflated where my 25mm Gatorskins measure less then 24.5 so we are talking about less then 1mm or 1/32 of an inch difference. I think one of biggest factor in this situation is the quality of the tire itself which will play a major role on overall performance & durability. This is why I only run a quality name brand tire.

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