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My First Road Wheel Build ...

20K views 76 replies 19 participants last post by  c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n 
#1 · (Edited)
Kinlin XR19W rims on Super Light hubs ... all sourced from Bike Hub Store :thumbsup: excellant service. If I need more wheel components I know where to look ...

Rear hub 28H 208g lacing 3x2x
Front hub 24H 86g lacing 1x
Sapim Lasers (they are really skinny)

Having only build MTB wheels and only disc compatible, I am looking forward to this ...

rear wheel first ... 3x drive side, 2x NDS ... just for a change



all laced and ready for tightening

 
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#47 ·
Had the in-laws around for the last 2 weeks and could only go out again today.

Did a 55 miles sportive with 3500" of climbs around Hampshire. Route was through some country roads with pot-holes and stones. Climbing through forests and descents under canopy and was a bit worried when I went through a few potholes in the shaded areas. Could feel the full force of the wheel entering the pot-hole and coming back out again. arrrgh ... but ... all is still good. :thumbsup:

Am using 25mm tyres and that helps I think.

To date I have done 200 miles on these rims.

I am now fully confident in the wheelset. My previous wheels were built using Hope hubs and DT Swiss rims and so even on the first run I was confident in the integrity and durability of the components. Naturally with these 'SL' hubs and 'Kinlin' rims that I have only heard of when I came onto this forum, I was a bit cautious. And to top it off, they are light, well at least in my books. They actually weigh 399g and 414g. 24H and 28H respectively. Initially I was a bit cautious with every form of unevenness in roads around here, but not now. :D Hope they stay that way.

If I had, for arguments' sake, build a wheelset using Chris King hubs and DT Swiss rims, other than the engagement, would I be able to tell the difference? Don't think I will.
 
#48 · (Edited)
I'm new here and looking for information about wheels. I'm researching my first road bike and looking at the different available wheel choices and with so many differing types it feels confusing. If that's more than you want to get into, could you point me to a reference guide? The rims you chose look pretty straight forward to me, but then you have manufacturers making aluminum rims with elongated, almost egg like proportions. Is that about strength? Or aerodynamics? Then you have these really deep carbon fiber rims. Again, is that about strength or aerodynamics or both? These are the sorts of questions I'm trying to figure out. Honestly though in all likelihood I'll probably build a set like yours. But part of the process is learning why other people make the choices they do. Thanks... j
 
#51 ·
Take a look at the wheel info page on BWW's site, it will give you some general wheel info -

Road - Road Wheel Buying Guide - Bicycle Wheel Warehouse

Read up on the site of Peter White Cycles.

Read my info on home wheelbuilding - there is some general info there.
Sheldon Brown's site will have lots of info too.

Deep rims (please don't call them "deep dish" as that's a kind of pizza) are more aerodynamic but the faster you go, the more benefit they are. At the speeds of most of us, any minor benefit is not noticeable. Deeper rims (more affected by crosswinds) are generally stronger than shallower ones and usually can tolerate less spokes.

Be careful of well-marketed factory pre-built wheelsets as the cost of hype, advertizing and visual effects is passed on to you. Usually they contain proprietary spokes that, if spares are needed, tend to be expensive and hard to find and some wheelsets have to be returned to the factory (eek! :eek: ) for service & repair.
 
#50 ·
The deep profile rims are more aerodynamic, but it reaches a certain point where cross-winds may be more perceptible.

I am sure you notice racers with a dish on the rear but only a deep profile rim on the front as the front is more affected by cross-winds. That is about as much I can say about the subject.

I chose the XR19W because they are light, at about 400-410g each and they have eyelets, which helps to reinforce the rim. It is a 21mm profile rim. It also depends on your weight. I am about 165lbs and losing weight as I ride more and more. I have never been above 175lbs. (fingers-crossed)
 
#52 ·
That's what I've been led to believe. My current ride is a 25lb Trek 850 mountain bike with 1.25x26 slicks. I can do 16 mph on flat ground and have been told an easy 18 to 20 mph is within my reach on the right road bike. I wonder at what speed all of that aero design begins proving its worth. I've been seeing a lot of fixies around town sporting an aero aluminum rim that looks pretty cool but I'm guessing yours weigh's a bit less. Currently I weigh 190with a target of 185, down from 205 last winter. Is rider weight that critical with rim choice? I'm really pretty ignorant about a lot of these details. Thanks by the way.
 
#53 ·
... I wonder at what speed all of that aero design begins proving its worth. I've been seeing a lot of fixies around town sporting an aero aluminum rim that looks pretty cool but I'm guessing yours weigh's a bit less. Currently I weigh 190with a target of 185, down from 205 last winter. Is rider weight that critical with rim choice? ...
£1,000 deep-section carbon wheel grouptest: The test lab | Product News | Cycling Weekly

fixies with 'aero' aluminium rims? most probably for aesthetics ...

rider weight do determine the type of rim to use and how many spokes. eg:
Kinlin XR-200 Clincher Rim - 22mm - 383 grams
under description ... riders above 190lbs should use XR19W ...
 
#54 ·
Just had to re-true my rear wheels. And they were mainly the NDS that needed adjustment. Wondering if I had used slightly thicker spokes on the NDS, would that have helped. Previous wheels were built using 1.8 DTSwiss spokes. My road wheel here I have gone with 1.5 SapimLasers.

Otherwise I am very happy with the wheel. :thumbsup:
 
#65 ·
I just noticed the differences ... but from these 2 sites ... they are listed as 598.

Kinlin XR 19w Rim

KinLin XR-19W Clincher Rim : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique

Most of the seasoned builders here would insist that you measure the ERD yourself. I cannot quite recall what I did back then but I may have just checked a few sites out there and just went with the 'more' common measurement, which, you should not do as you should measure them yourself ... ;)
 
#67 ·
I went with 1X on the front. 2X rear NDS and 3X DS.
Spoke calculation from wheelpro.
Front: the length came out at 286.9 round up to 287.
Rear: NDS 288.4 (289 used) and DS 293.5 (293 used)
BHS only had odd lengths and so the closest choice.

I have to admit that the lengths that I used were a bit long. Better long than short I would say. The 'correct' length should have the spoke end, right up to the bottom of the nipple slot.
 
#71 ·
I think those must have been *good* knobbies. The cheap knobby tires I have on the MTB feel like I'm plowing through sand... even on pavement.

I did have a good aero body position on the MTB back in the day, with a long low stem and bar-ends that I used like aerobars. And fat tires have low rolling resistance, all else being equal.

It's all little bits anyway.
 
#72 ·
I think those must have been *good* knobbies. The cheap knobby tires I have on the MTB feel like I'm plowing through sand... even on pavement.
I did have a good aero body position on the MTB back in the day, with a long low stem and bar-ends that I used like aerobars. And fat tires have low rolling resistance, all else being equal. It's all little bits anyway.
My MTB is a "fast" mtb - 20lbs, low & long, rigid, bar-ends, light 2.1 tires, built for fast dirt road and singletrack cruising and fast non-too-technical racing. So as mtb's go, it would be as quick as most any mtb's.
 
#75 ·
Hey hey hey ... Are the ole chaps still here?

Quick update. Wheels still good and running. Had to true the rear wheel a bit just last month but nothing too drastic.

There was a slight 1mm wobble which is now all evened out.

Might consider changing the spokes on the drive side to something a bit heavier. Easy fix but we will see.
 
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