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My First Road Wheel Build ...

20K views 76 replies 19 participants last post by  c_h_i_n_a_m_a_n 
#1 · (Edited)
Kinlin XR19W rims on Super Light hubs ... all sourced from Bike Hub Store :thumbsup: excellant service. If I need more wheel components I know where to look ...

Rear hub 28H 208g lacing 3x2x
Front hub 24H 86g lacing 1x
Sapim Lasers (they are really skinny)

Having only build MTB wheels and only disc compatible, I am looking forward to this ...

rear wheel first ... 3x drive side, 2x NDS ... just for a change



all laced and ready for tightening

 
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#5 ·
Cheers ... will keep this thread updated ...

Question or maybe it does not matter ...

I am using brass (silver) nipples on the drive side (higher tension) and alloy (red) on the NDS. Hence the colour alternates around the rim ... Apologies for the vanity ... :blush2:

For the front, since the flange is symmetrical, is it still ok to just use brass on spokes coming from one side of the hub and alloy from the other side? Or should I just go 2 brass and 2 alloy etc, not that I want to as I would like to keep the same order ... Would it be a problem? Logically I do not think so ... :confused:
 
#7 ·
How do you mean by 'wouldn't get stiff enough' ...

Were you were not able to get the tension on the spokes up to rim's recommendation?

btw ... It is 105kgf for the XR19W, just wondering how much higher I can go, mainly because I have a DT Swiss wheelset, and the average tension in the spokes, on the drive side is closer to 150kgf than the recommended 122kgf.

I am using Sapim Lasers 2.0 1.5 2.0mm ...
 
#8 ·
I built it to 125kgf (I build everything to 125 unless the manufacturer says not to). I think the NDS was about 50 or 60, dont quite remember. It felt flexy and the NDS was pretty easy to go slack. I think it was actually an A23, it was quite a while ago. I never rode it, it just felt so off while building I didnt want to keep going with it.
 
#9 ·
Cheers for that ...

Another question ... I am using alloy nipples and I notice they 'mark/notch' easily when using the 4-sided Spoke Nipple Wrench to tighten.

Do you guys use a 'home made' nipple driver to tighten alloy nipples from the 'slotted' end, ie from inside the rim? Just so that the nipple is not marked at all. Not vital but just for aesthetics ... if you know what I mean ... Would be good to build a wheel for a friend with the nipples looking clean.
 
#10 ·
@chinaman- One of the downsides of alloy nips is that they do tend to get scuffed up a little bit easier than brass. Regarding your question, I am not sure that I completely understand. Are you using a nipple driver to tighten nips before the tensioning process, or while tensioning?
Keep in mind that a brand new spoke wrench can scuff up nips as well. I prefer to use a spoke wrench that has been used quite a bit.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hey Zen... quick hi-jack but do you have any pics of build with the Kinlin rims in gold and any color hubs? I was looking at picking up a set of the XR270 or C472W in gold with Red BHS hubs and black spokes to match my 09 Kona Jake.

Edit: Nevermind found your flickr and found what I was looking for...Might just stay with all black, dont know.:thumbsup:
 
#12 · (Edited)
I am using this nipple driver during tensioning ... thanks to Mike T for the custom 'pre-tension' nipple driver, but this is MY 'tensioning' driver ... :lol:



works so far on the NDS, which I am using alloy nipples ... just so that I do not scuff the nipples ... for the front where I am going 1X, I will try and give an update ...



Another question, for 1X, there is no way that the second set of spokes (on the same side of the hub) will go under the first set if the first set are all heads out, isn't it ... ie the spoke no 2 will not be able to go under spoke no 1, which is the first set of spoke that I run heads out into the hub ...



Just to re-confirm ...

For 2X, which was for my rear above, the second set of spoke that goes on the same side of the hub goes, over the spoke next to it and under ... before going into the rim??? ... sounds and looks logical ... if anyone can confirm would be good ... cheers
 
#13 ·
I am using this nipple driver during tensioning ... thanks to Mike T for the custom 'pre-tension' nipple driver, but this is MY 'tensioning' driver ... :lol:
B-b-b-but I don't see the reason for the slot in your version. If the slot is needed then you've seriously mis-calculated the spoke length. :eek: Maybe I missed something and maybe you could explain the reason for the slot.

A flat screwdriver works ok - and that's basically what you have unless a spoke pokes up into the slot - but it slides out of the nipple groove easily. My pointy modified phillips tends to stay in the slot better.

Another question, for 1X, there is no way that the second set of spokes (on the same side of the hub) will go under the first set if the first set are all heads out, isn't it ... ie the spoke no 2 will not be able to go under spoke no 1, which is the first set of spoke that I run heads out into the hub ...
I have front wheel with x1 done all "heads out". Yes the spokes touch and interfere but I don't think it's an issue. They're done with CX-Ray but the cross touches in the round part of the spoke. It would be nice if they crossed in their flat section though.

For 2X, which was for my rear above, the second set of spoke that goes on the same side of the hub goes, over the spoke next to it and under ... before going into the rim??? ... sounds and looks logical ... if anyone can confirm would be good ... cheers
10-4 C'man. You got it. Carry on with the good work.
 
#19 ·
They're just fine 2x/2x. No reason to have more lacing on the DS. Im a very big fan of lacing these hubs 1x heads in on the DS, and 2x NDS for 28h. Returns better wheels, and I think it looks pretty good too :)

Again Ill admit that I never actually rode the 2x/3x wheels, they just felt off enough while building that I abandoned it. Id very strongly recommend against more crosses on the DS.
 
#22 ·
Once you are done show us some shots of the finished wheels. Looks like this will be in my build future as I am now finding, as I get more confident and faster on my Jake, that my wheels flex a bit when I bank a turn. I found this out because I can actually hear them flexing and hitting the brake pads slightly and rubbing. I figured that a 32H/32H setup on my Jake at 187# would be more than strong enough but the wheels are tru with no hops so looks like the rims just weren't made to hold my weight. I am debating on using the BHS hubs and building an entirely new set of wheels and keeping these as backup/trainers or just relacing the stock Tiagra hubs to the BHS rims.
 
#23 · (Edited)
all done ... rear wheel ...
3xDS/2xNDS went ok for me ...

front ...
just 1x heads out ...



The weight came out at 615g front + 774g rear ... I tensioned the spokes to about 120kgf, based on the lightest spoke tensioned, on the DS rear and either side for front ... recommended was 105kgf, but I think it should be fine ...



... as I get more confident and faster on my Jake, that my wheels flex a bit when I bank a turn. I found this out because I can actually hear them flexing and hitting the brake pads slightly and rubbing ...
That is a worry constantly at the back of mind and cannot wait to find out if that happens to these wheels as well as they are so light ...
 
#28 · (Edited)
Have so far done a few short round trips and a 52km (32miles) and a 93km or 58miles.

Gone through pot holes, shorts bursts of sprints on flats, standing and pedalling up inclines and at speeds during descents ... rims are still true ... fingers crossed ... :rolleyes:

I have not tried out other road rims and am not sure if I would be able to tell the difference, honestly.

Leaning during cornering? not able to discern if there is any flex in the rims in terms of rubbing on the pads.

The hubs are smooth, too smooth actually. :p My Hope Pro 2s had a bit of drag initially and then as with increase usage, they become smoother ... unsure if this is due to the Enduro bearings ... Engagement (6 pawls) is as good, if not marginally better than my Hope Pro IIs (24 points 4 pawls). Unfortunately did not do a count of the points when I took out the freehub for a look at the bearings. (Maybe Brandon from BHS can chime in here ...)

One thing though, keep getting grit, twice, during just a 1mile round trip, (or whatever it is) stuck in the pads and scarring the braking track. Unsure if the material came from the road or because the rim is new, as it looks like it is aluminium to me. Had to lightly sand the brake track down a bit on each occasion. Do rims with brake tracks need to be 'bedded-in' so to speak ... just to remove the initial 'layer' on the brake track?
 
#29 ·
They're 48pt hubs, twice what hope has. The hubs dont have much in the way of sealing, so not much drag. Theyre sealed enough to be fine though, I ran mine in grimy rainy portland for a season without issues. They're so incredibly easy to service too that its not a big deal to clean out and relube the freehub. All though the bearings say enduro, I dont think they're the same bearings you'd get if you ordered them from enduro in the US. They're sort of low grade, but good enough.

Kinlins have been known to kinda gunk up the brake track with certain pads when new. Give the rim a good scrub with the scrubby side of a dish sponge, and wipe the pads down well too. Some people get metallic dust on their frames with new kinlins, all though I havent seen this on my bikes. It should go away, if not try koolstop salmons.
 
#36 · (Edited)
They're 48pt hubs, twice what hope has ... They're so incredibly easy to service too that its not a big deal to clean out and relube the freehub. All though the bearings say enduro, I dont think they're the same bearings you'd get if you ordered them from enduro in the US ...
The end caps are 'threaded-on' instead of 'pressed-on', having removed one side, is the other end also threaded into the hub body itself?

... Have you been satisfied with the performance of the BHS hubs?

I am preparing to build the following wheelset ...

PROPOSED FRONT WHEEL BUILD -
Kinlin XR300 30mm height Rim
24 spoke Sapim CX Ray - Radial Lacing
BHS 71g Superlight Wide Front Hub

PROPOSED REAR WHEEL BUILD-
Kinlin XR300 30mm height Rim
28 spoke Sapim CX Ray - 2X Lacing Drive Side & 2X Lacing Non-drive Side
BHS 211g Superlight Rear Hub

Any recommendations on nipples and front/rear spoke tension settings would also be appreciated.
I am 5'10" and about 165lbs, 'so far not been' heavier than 175lbs ... never say never ... :rolleyes:

I went with half alloy and half brass nipples. 12 alloy weighs 4g and 12 brass weighs 12g. Alloy costs a lot more and they get marked the moment you use a spoke key on them. I only used 'my' nipple driver to tension them from within the rim.



You could go with either. I think Mike T uses alloy on most if not all his rims and with no problems. Roger M prefers to use brass. (this was a few yrs ago now)

The max recommended tension for my XR19W was 105kgf. Rear drive side I went up to 120-125kgf for the least tensioned spoke. Maybe could have gone a bit higher. Just do not like the flex remaining in the NDS. And the same with the front too.

Could not find anything on the XR300 ... 130kgf was all I could find from weight weenies forum ...
 
#30 ·
Thanks for the info dude... Not sure if I am going to build these or not now as I am looking at building up another mtb for next year (this time full suspension). If I do then I will convert my HT (On-One Inbred 29er) to the commuter and get ride of the Jake. Dont want to build a set of 130mm wheels and then have to use spacers on the 135mm mtb frame. Just kinda waiting to see how things pan out right now.
 
#31 ·
Very nice wheel build. I have enjoyed watching the progress. Have you been satisfied with the performance of the BHS hubs?

I am preparing to build the following wheelset but I am not sure of the hub performance and lateral stiffness of my proposed build. I am looking to build up a light all-round wheelset. I weigh 220lbs, like to ride fast but I am not abusive on wheels. All comments and recommendations are welcome.

PROPOSED FRONT WHEEL BUILD -
Kinlin XR300 30mm height Rim
24 spoke Sapim CX Ray - Radial Lacing
BHS 71g Superlight Wide Front Hub

PROPOSED REAR WHEEL BUILD-
Kinlin XR300 30mm height Rim
28 spoke Sapim CX Ray - 2X Lacing Drive Side & 2X Lacing Non-drive Side
BHS 211g Superlight Rear Hub

Any recommendations on nipples and front/rear spoke tension settings would also be appreciated.
 
#32 ·
If this is your first build the general consensus is to stay away from bladed spokes due to their nature to twist. If you go with a common double butted (Sapim Race, DT Swiss Comp, etc) you will only be adding a slight amount of weight and be getting a much better initial build. Everything I have read about the Kinlin is that they are spectacular rims and built properly, can be just as good as any high dollar purchased wheel. Spoke tension should normally be pretty high, but unless you have a good measuring tool you will just go with what seems to be good and tight.

Lateral flex is something I think he would have felt initially when riding the wheels. I am 185 out of the shower and with riding clothes and bag maybe 5-8lbs heavier. With that said, I am still riding the stock wheels on my Jake (Alex rims with Tiagra/Formula hubs) that are 32/32 and going around corners at speed I can feel and hear the flex, I actually hear the rim slightly rubbing on the brake pads. I am not sure if this is do to the rims being incorrectly tensioned (they are tru) or that the rims are to light for my weight.

I ride hard, take corners like I would on a mtn bike, and ride rather rough roads, so more than likely the rims are just past their prime. For me, if I do end up building a set, I will be going with the XR270s or the C472s with the same hubs and Sapim Race spokes. Really I am looking for an all arounder build that will survive gravel road grinds and road riding/commuting.
 
#39 · (Edited)
I did not use nipple washers. I presume these washers are used where rims do not have any eyelets?

The XR19W rims have single eyelets and so never occured to me to use them. I went with the XR19W only because they were light and have eyelets.

The XR200 which are lighter rims do not have any eyelets. If I had decided to go with these it would have been weight driven and so unsure if I would have used washers.
 
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