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  1. #1
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    Opinions on wheelset

    I am looking at some (relatively) nicer wheels for my road bike. I currently have the stock Shimano RS11 wheels.

    I do a bit of racing, but not tons. I am about 165. I want something that is a bit lighter but not something that is going to lose true if it sees a bump/pot hole.

    I am looking at something like the mavic Ksyrium Elite and the Fulcrum Racing 3. Both around 500, but can spend a touch more.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Shimano RS81 C24 would be another choice in that price range.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    Shimano RS81 C24 would be another choice in that price range.
    Along those lines, I saw the Shimano Dura-Ace WH-9000-C24. Thoughts?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianLas View Post
    Along those lines, I saw the Shimano Dura-Ace WH-9000-C24. Thoughts?
    Very nice, higher than $500 probably, the 9100 Dura Ace would be great too. Weight is probably the difference between the RS81 and 9000, about 75 grams for $250-300 I'd guess. There's a lot more options in the price range of the 9000 wheelset though. I saw a set of HED Ardennes+ for $700 somewhere a few days ago as an example.
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  5. #5
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    Check out November Wheels.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmach View Post
    Check out November Wheels.
    Good point, in the price range of the Dura Ace there's plenty of custom handbuilt wheels that come in to play as options also.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianLas View Post
    I am looking at some (relatively) nicer wheels for my road bike. I currently have the stock Shimano RS11 wheels.

    I do a bit of racing, but not tons. I am about 165. I want something that is a bit lighter but not something that is going to lose true if it sees a bump/pot hole.

    I am looking at something like the mavic Ksyrium Elite and the Fulcrum Racing 3. Both around 500, but can spend a touch more.

    Thoughts?
    Shimano RS11s weigh around 1850g. They are probably the best entry level wheels you will find, but I understand, it's "graduation day"

    I would stay away from Mavic. They aren't the quality they used to be. I'm not familiar with the Fulcrum Racing 3. I do know someone who has put over 20K miles on her Fulcrums. Not sure which Fulcrums these are. Note that Fulcrum freehubs are considerably louder than Shimanos.

    I doubt you would go wrong with any of the higher end Shimano wheels others have mentioned in this thread.

    HED Ardennes Plus GPs are also good wheels and worth a look, but a little more expensive at around $700.

    DT Swiss P 1800 Spline 23s are another good possibility. But note that DT Swiss freehubs are at least as loud as the Fulcrums if that matters.

    And of course you could always go custom if you want.

    The possibilities are endless.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianLas View Post
    Along those lines, I saw the Shimano Dura-Ace WH-9000-C24. Thoughts?
    Not stiff, judging from my experience with WH-6700 and WH-RS20.

    Next year there are new Fulcrum Racing 3s available with a wider rim.
    Also next year new Ultegra wheels are available, WH-RS700-C30, rear wheel has 30mm rim and 2:1 lacing.
    http://road.cc/sites/default/files/s...?itok=j9XbwIAt

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andreas_Illesch View Post
    Not stiff, judging from my experience with WH-6700 and WH-RS20.

    Next year there are new Fulcrum Racing 3s available with a wider rim.
    Also next year new Ultegra wheels are available, WH-RS700-C30, rear wheel has 30mm rim and 2:1 lacing.
    http://road.cc/sites/default/files/s...?itok=j9XbwIAt
    Not a fair comparison to compare these the Shimano Dura-Ace WH-9000-C24 which is a high end wheel set. The WH-RS20 you mention above is an entry level wheel set very similar to the RS11. The WH-6700 is an older generation Ultegra. The WH-6800 was a vast improvement over the WH-6700.

    OP, one thing to be very careful about is that your existing wheels are an old-school internal width of 15mm. That is narrow by today's standard. Many new wheels are wider. Keep in mind that wider wheels will make your tires effectively a little wider. When I went from 15mm to 17mm wheels, my tires were 1mm wider! So check the clearance between your chain stays carefully to make sure you don't end up with a beautiful new wheel set that won't fit with the tires you want to use.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Not a fair comparison to compare these the Shimano Dura-Ace WH-9000-C24 which is a high end wheel set. The [COLOR=#333333]WH-RS20 you mention above is an entry level wheel set very similar to the RS11. The WH-6700 is an older generation Ultegra. The WH-6800 was a vast improvement over the WH-6700.
    What has "fair" got to do with it? What has "high end" to do with it?
    I know what these wheel-sets are, I rode them.

    All these wheels have a small rim profile, all have the same low spoke count, all have the same lacing pattern.
    So unless Shimano did some magic on that carbon-aluminium Dura Ace rim, the stiffness is doubtful.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    The WH-6800 was a vast improvement over the WH-6700.
    Really?
    In what way?
    Is the WH-6800 vastly stiffer than the WH-6700?
    Last edited by Andreas_Illesch; 12-16-2017 at 08:01 AM.

  12. #12
    changingleaf
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    I recommend something custom. A nice wheelset can be built with Boyd Altamont Lite rims.

    The wheels you're looking take more time and money to fix when something goes wrong.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andreas_Illesch View Post
    Really?
    In what way?
    Is the WH-6800 vastly stiffer than the WH-6700?
    Less complaints. Don't know if it is "vastly stiffer". I do know people who own WH-6800 and love them. No complaints about stiffness.

    If you really want a stiffer wheel, you need a higher spoke count. More spokes will give you a stiffer wheel.
    Last edited by Lombard; 12-16-2017 at 09:02 AM.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by changingleaf View Post
    I recommend something custom. A nice wheelset can be built with Boyd Altamont Lite rims.

    The wheels you're looking take more time and money to fix when something goes wrong.
    This is true and I prefer custom built myself. The trouble with custom built is finding a good custom builder. I build my own wheels, so that is a non-issue.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    If you really want a stiffer wheel, you need a higher spoke count. More spokes will give you a stiffer wheel.
    No, really?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andreas_Illesch View Post
    Not stiff, judging from my experience with WH-6700 and WH-RS20.
    Just curious, but how did you measure "stiff." The reason I ask is that blind tests show that riders cannot tell the difference between laterally stiff and laterally flexy wheels based on the ride.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Less complaints. Don't know if it is "vastly stiffer". I do know people who own WH-6800 and love them. No complaints about stiffness.

    If you really want a stiffer wheel, you need a higher spoke count. More spokes will give you a stiffer wheel.
    You said they were a vast improvement. If you can't identify what that vast improvement is you should just admit you were BS-ing and move on. The only change I'm aware of is 11 speed compatible hubs. And the only information I've heard is Shimano didn't improve anything going from 10 to 11.

    And no, getting a stiff wheel is not as simple as getting one with a lot of spokes.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    This is true and I prefer custom built myself. The trouble with custom built is finding a good custom builder. I build my own wheels, so that is a non-issue.
    Please. So you build a couple wheels and you think finding someone with your skill is going to be an problem?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    OP, one thing to be very careful about is that your existing wheels are an old-school internal width of 15mm. That is narrow by today's standard. Many new wheels are wider. Keep in mind that wider wheels will make your tires effectively a little wider. When I went from 15mm to 17mm wheels, my tires were 1mm wider! So check the clearance between your chain stays carefully to make sure you don't end up with a beautiful new wheel set that won't fit with the tires you want to use.[/COLOR]
    This is good info that I hadn't really considered. Mostly because I am pretty sure I am going to get some new tires to go with it.

    I feel pretty confident that I am going to purchase one of the Shimano wheelsets, either the Dura-Ace WH-9000-C24 or the RS 81 C24. They seem to be pretty good bang for the buck. If they are not as stiff as they could be, I wonder if I will actually know.
    As an aside, do I need a new set of brake pads, or will they only be stopping on the aluminum part of the rim.

    I think that custom build wheels might be where I go next, I think that I want to be a bit more well versed in exactly what I want (like potentially "learning" how stiff laterally a wheel feels and such) before I start working my way into that area.

  20. #20
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    Here's a good article debunking misconceptions on stiffness. It's worth reading in its entirely:

    Debunking Wheel Stiffness - Slowtwitch.com
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andreas_Illesch View Post
    No, really?
    Yes, really. And trust me, the extra spokes won't slow you down.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    Please. So you build a couple wheels and you think finding someone with your skill is going to be an problem?
    I am reluctant to respond since you appear to be in attack mode, but I will anyway.

    What I meant was to chose your wheel builder carefully. There are plenty of good builders out there, but there are also some whose quality is inconsistent - usually the larger outfits. I bought a custom wheel set from one place online where I wasn't very pleased with the quality. I had to touch up the wheels.

    An LBS is probably your best bet.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  23. #23
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    ......
    An LBS is probably your best bet.
    Kinda depends on the LBS. A shop I go to fairly often has a 'wheelbuilder' mechanic, but he's more of a MTB guy. His ideas go more towards heavy spokes, and thinks that semi-radial spoking makes a 'weak' wheel.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Kinda depends on the LBS. A shop I go to fairly often has a 'wheelbuilder' mechanic, but he's more of a MTB guy. His ideas go more towards heavy spokes, and thinks that semi-radial spoking makes a 'weak' wheel.
    That may be true. I was more referring to the quality of the build, rather than the chosen components. I once bought a wheel set from one of the larger custom builders. Spoke tensions were all over the place. I can't really complain since the wheels were a bargain and I know how to correct these problems. However, if you're not into building your own wheels, it would be a problem.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Just curious, but how did you measure "stiff." The reason I ask is that blind tests show that riders cannot tell the difference between laterally stiff and laterally flexy wheels based on the ride.
    My definition -->Stiff = doesn't rub the brakes hammering out of the saddle up a steep hill with the brakes adjusted reasonably close to the rim and flexy = they rub.
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