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  1. #26
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    I think you are probably right. I failed to get the LBS to recognize the noise in the freehub. Seems they only looked at the obvious mechanics. I walked in with only the wheel but had they secured it in a frame and spun it to free wheel they would have heard the noise I'm speaking of. By the way, it really doesn't sound like the pawls and they are certainly working correctly, rather it is a rotational, metallic sound, where the freehub body meets the hub.

    After this issue from getting stuck in the rain for 10 miles, I am certainly convinced that the seals on these Fulcrum Racing Sports are not up to par. Again, if you look at the exploded diagrams on their website you see that this model is assembled completely differently from their better models.

  2. #27
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    Anyone know how this freehub is removed? Looks like it has to be removed by inserting a hex key from the non-drive side, but when I look in from that direction, it looks like splines more like a torx bolt than hex. Is that possible?

  3. #28
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    I have gone back and looked at exploded parts diagrams for all the other Fulcrum and Campagnolo wheels. This Fulcrum Racing Sport is the only 1 that appears to have its freehub secured going through the non-drive side and the only 1 without external pawls, hence my need to find info on how it is removed.

  4. #29
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    Went out and got a 10mm hex as I thought that would be a standard fit but it spins in place, so I now know I need at least an 11mm. This photo shows the fastener that I am trying to reach through the non-drive side through the axle. Problem with Fulcrum Racing Sport-freehubfastener.jpg
    My confusion about the "star" orientation has been resolved as there are simply more than 1 way to fit the 6-sided hex key into the fastener. Given that I have to unscrew from the non-drive side, does anyone know which direction to loosen the fastener? If I were coming at it from the drive side, it would be standard right-hand thread.

  5. #30
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    Problem with Fulcrum Racing Sport-fulcrum-wheels_-red-powersl_rs_fw-body_eng_page_1.jpgProblem with Fulcrum Racing Sport-fulcrum-wheels_-red-powersl_rs_fw-body_eng_page_2.jpgThis may help someone else if they have Fulcrum Racing Sports. Turns out that a 12mm hex is required, but the kicker is that the non-drive side cartridge bearing has to be removed first. Not exactly user-serviceable as I cannot think of another freehub body that cannot be removed without having to remove a bearing first. Anyway, attached are the service instructions.

  6. #31
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    Update

    The LBS was kind enough to warranty replace the Fulcrum Racing Sport rear wheel with a Fulcrum Racing 5.

    Much better wheel, especially mechanically.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKSki View Post
    The LBS was kind enough to warranty replace the Fulcrum Racing Sport rear wheel with a Fulcrum Racing 5.

    Much better wheel, especially mechanically.
    coming to this very late, but having had issues with this wheel I did some googling. Iím now on my 3rd freehub in a year and will be following your example and changing wheelset. It seems that any water at all seems to get inside and destroy the freehub, for which replacements are like the proverbial hen's teeth to find here. Coming in to winter in Ireland just does not bear thinking about, so a reliable replacement needed!

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarW View Post
    coming to this very late, but having had issues with this wheel I did some googling. Iím now on my 3rd freehub in a year and will be following your example and changing wheelset. It seems that any water at all seems to get inside and destroy the freehub, for which replacements are like the proverbial hen's teeth to find here. Coming in to winter in Ireland just does not bear thinking about, so a reliable replacement needed!
    The difference in the mechanicals between the Racing Sport and Racing 5 is like night and day. Also most speak favorably for the Racing 3. The Racing Sport should not have been spec'd for any racing bicycle.

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