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  1. #1
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    what did I do wrong? Wheelbuilding issue

    I started building up my front DT Swiss front wheel. Nothing fancy here 32 hole rim and 3 cross. I was following Brandt's book. I thought I hit all the directions but once I had it laced, some spokes were way too loose. There is a repeating pattern. in 4 spoke groups on the rim, I will get one that seems normal, the next 2 the nipple isn't even seated, and the 4th is OK. I may have no other choice but to start over but ideas on how I screwed up would be helpful
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails what did I do wrong?  Wheelbuilding issue-r460.jpg  

  2. #2
    Happily absent RBR Member
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    Are the threads still exposed or are the nipples up to atl least the end of the threads?

    Until you actually have enough tension to make the spokes straight the inners and outers will behave differently because of the way they are bent.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
    Are the threads still exposed or are the nipples up to atl least the end of the threads?

    Until you actually have enough tension to make the spokes straight the inners and outers will behave differently because of the way they are bent.
    That was exactly the case. I compared the wheel I built to a known good wheel and the spokes patterns were the same. I tensioned up the wheel using the Park nipple driver and things sort of snapped into place. I think I will take a break and the finish it up tonight. i dont build many wheels so I pretty much forget everything between build. Thanks for responding

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    That was exactly the case. I compared the wheel I built to a known good wheel and the spokes patterns were the same. I tensioned up the wheel using the Park nipple driver and things sort of snapped into place. I think I will take a break and the finish it up tonight. i dont build many wheels so I pretty much forget everything between build. Thanks for responding
    Make sure you give the elbows out spokes a strong bend around the flanges. It is easiest to do while lacing, but still easier while they are loose than after you have tension on the wheel.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  5. #5
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    A lot of times when you're starting to tension a wheel you just laced you need to push the hub back and forth laterally and wind it up like it's being pedaled and that will help get the nipples seated in the rim.
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  6. #6
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    Something doesn't look right on the pairs between 1 and 4 o'clock. One pair from a flange looks like the last cross is too close to the rim. Obviously, without the wheel in my hands I can't be certain, but I see something amiss even though the wheel isn't up to tension.

    I'd strip the wheel and start over. I've brain farted in my lacing and had to start over, myself.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter P. View Post
    Something doesn't look right on the pairs between 1 and 4 o'clock. One pair from a flange looks like the last cross is too close to the rim. Obviously, without the wheel in my hands I can't be certain, but I see something amiss even though the wheel isn't up to tension.

    I'd strip the wheel and start over. I've brain farted in my lacing and had to start over, myself.
    I think I am good now. I checked every spoke against a known good wheel and it matches. It was what Kontact and cxwrench said. Once I screwed in the nipples so the threads were at the same point on very spoke, it all popped into place and the wheel looks fine. I have laced a wheel wrong before so there was some self-doubt in play

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    I think I am good now. I checked every spoke against a known good wheel and it matches. It was what Kontact and cxwrench said. Once I screwed in the nipples so the threads were at the same point on very spoke, it all popped into place and the wheel looks fine. I have laced a wheel wrong before so there was some self-doubt in play
    In the future, rather than mess with examining where every thread is, get a flat head screwdriver and grind the ends down so there is a point in the middle. Then tighten down each nipple until this tool "bottoms out".
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    In the future, rather than mess with examining where every thread is, get a flat head screwdriver and grind the ends down so there is a point in the middle. Then tighten down each nipple until this tool "bottoms out".

    The Park nipple driver I have does that function. I just mentioned the thread thing as confirmation that they were equally tensioned

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    In the future, rather than mess with examining where every thread is, get a flat head screwdriver and grind the ends down so there is a point in the middle. Then tighten down each nipple until this tool "bottoms out".
    This. the spoke will drive the driver out of the nipple at the same point every time. You can make one or store bought, they all do the same thing.

    A random pic just to show the tip profile.

    what did I do wrong?  Wheelbuilding issue-nipple-driver.jpg
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    This. the spoke will drive the driver out of the nipple at the same point every time. You can make one or store bought, they all do the same thing.

    A random pic just to show the tip profile.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I do in fact own the Park version of that device, but don't like it. I prefer the one I made from a straight blade screwdriver.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



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