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  1. #1
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    Wheel Building advice wanted

    It has been a long time since I built a wheel. I am waiting for the spokes to arrive.

    DT Non Butted Stainless spokes
    Mavic Open Road 36 Rim
    Shimano Ultegra 9 speed hub
    Cross 3 Build
    Should i grease the threads and the eyelets of the rim?
    Should I lightly tap the spokes with a mallet so that they lay flat on the hub flange?

  2. #2
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    Threads of spokes: Yes, I use Permatex Anti-seize, but a heavy grease works too. Some use oil.
    Eyelets: Yes, may not be necessary, but it can't hurt. I thread a nipple onto a spoke so the nipple points down and plunge it into a vat of wheel bearing grease. Then I grease the inside of every spoke hole from the bed towards the hub to give the nipple a bed of grease to work into. I'd do the same with an eyelet rim.
    Mallet: I would only do this if the spoke bends don't lay down after you begin putting tension on them. Hand pressure on the bend sometimes works too, but a few taps with a rubber mallet should do the trick.

  3. #3
    A wheelist
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    Read my site. It might help.
    .
    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with motivation, information and resources.

  4. #4
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    What Mike said.

  5. #5
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdhbrad View Post
    What Mike said.
    What Brad said.
    .
    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with motivation, information and resources.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    Should i grease the threads and the eyelets of the rim?
    yes.

    Should I lightly tap the spokes with a mallet so that they lay flat on the hub flange?
    if you have a rubber mallet, maybe. but i don't. i just lay the wheel down and press down on the spokes with my palms as they exit the hub after the wheel is around 90 percent complete.

    i pretty much follow sheldon's wheelbuilding page to a 't.'
    Yossarian: don't worry. nothing's going to happen to you that won't happen to the rest of us.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    Read my site. It will help.
    Fixed.

    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    It has been a long time since I built a wheel.
    Well then, it's time!

    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    Should i grease the threads and the eyelets of the rim?
    There are a few things you can use. Some use machine oil, some use grease. On my last set I used Permatex anti-seize on the spoke threads. I still just use machine oil inside the rim spoke holes applied with a Q-tip. Just be sure to always use something.

    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    Should I lightly tap the spokes with a mallet so that they lay flat on the hub flange?
    I don't tap. I use thumb pressure to bend the spokes inward before there is any tension. I find that more effective.
    Last edited by Lombard; 06-06-2018 at 02:24 AM.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    It has been a long time since I built a wheel. I am waiting for the spokes to arrive.

    DT Non Butted Stainless spokes
    Mavic Open Road 36 Rim
    Shimano Ultegra 9 speed hub
    Cross 3 Build
    Should i grease the threads and the eyelets of the rim?
    Should I lightly tap the spokes with a mallet so that they lay flat on the hub flange?
    Good advice from everyone else. But why straight gauge spokes? Butted spokes build better wheels.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Good advice from everyone else. But why straight gauge spokes? Butted spokes build better wheels.
    One advantage of getting old, things don't have to last too long. Also, I believe it is easier to build with. Less spoke wind.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    I believe it is easier to build with [straight gauge spokes]. Less spoke wind.
    Whoah, hold on a jiffy. Butted spokes, even with the thinnest centers (eg: Laser or Rev), are not much more of a problem to build with, especially when the simple steps of preventing, reducing and removing any twist are used.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniell View Post
    One advantage of getting old, things don't have to last too long. Also, I believe it is easier to build with. Less spoke wind.
    Not an issue I have experienced, and I build with 15/16 gauge spokes. If you totally want to avoid windup, go with 12 ga. spokes. Then of course you'd have to drill your hub flanges, but never a worry about windup. Everything is about balance.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Good advice from everyone else. But why straight gauge spokes? Butted spokes build better wheels.
    In theory yes. Butted spokes will flex in the middle and there will be less flexing at the two most vulnerable parts of the spoke - the elbow and threads.

    That being said, if the wheel is tensioned properly, how many more deformation cycles will this prevent before fatigue? In other words, by how many thousand miles more will a butted spoke last before it fails?

    Straight gauge spoked wheels do have a noticeably sturdier feel, though MORE spokes have a greater impact on this feel.

    And.....you can always use a bladed spoke like the DT Aero Comp if you want something where you can see spoke wind instantly.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    In theory yes. Butted spokes will flex in the middle and there will be less flexing at the two most vulnerable parts of the spoke - the elbow and threads.

    That being said, if the wheel is tensioned properly, how many more deformation cycles will this prevent before fatigue? In other words, by how many thousand miles more will a butted spoke last before it fails?

    Straight gauge spoked wheels do have a noticeably sturdier feel, though MORE spokes have a greater impact on this feel.

    And.....you can always use a bladed spoke like the DT Aero Comp if you want something where you can see spoke wind instantly.
    I went to a talk a number of years ago by one of the owners of Wheelsmith and he said that in his experience butted spokes don't last longer than straight gage steel. Not sure I believe that but I've not seen straight gage spokes break more often on wheels I have. Straight gage spokes are cheaper but a bit heavier. On wind up, just go 1/4 turn farther and go back and lubricate the spoke threads. Non-problem.

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