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Buying Your First Bike on a Budget.

470K views 1K replies 361 participants last post by  Souke-Cycling 
#1 ·
This is a thread to advise people on buying their first road bike on a budget... no matter what that budget is. Post some advice that would be useful for people when they are starting the process. Post criteria for deciding between two bikes. Post anything you think EVERY first time road bike buyer should know before plunking down her or his cash and taking the leap.
 
#2 ·
1. How much do I need to spend? There's no right answer here, just like there isn't a right answer to "how much does a house/car/jacket cost?" That being said, if you are on a budget, don't fear. The entry level stuff in the road bike world (usually Shimano Sora components on an aluminum frame) is durable and will give you many seasons of happy riding. If you really take to it, you'll find yourself lusting for more and better within 1-2 seasons, or if you are a very casual 1,000 miles per year rider or less, that entry level steed could last you a decade. Just take care of it.

2. How do I know if it fits? You'll get the same lecture over and over about the importance of fit, and people aren't lying. A too big or too small roadbike will truly take the joy out of riding. There are several good websites for bike sizing advice, including www.wrenchscience.com but for the true new rider, there's little to beat going to the local bike shop and spending a good amount of time with a knowledgeable salesperson.

3. Can I get a better deal by buying used? Well, of course. The used bike market is notoriously soft, and that means that a used 2005 bike, for example, can cost 1/3 to 1/2 less than it did new on the floor. That $700 you want to spend can get you much more bang for the buck. But if you don't know what you are doing, you may wind up with a bike that doesn't fit, or has been crashed, has outdated components, yadda yadda. Unless you either know what you are doing or have a local friend to help, there's really value in getting your first road bike at the LBS. You'll get fit assistance, accessories discounts, and probably some complimentary service and adjustments. You'll have a relationship with someone to answer your questions, etc.

4. Is Trek/Giant/Jamis/Motobecane, etc. any good? Look, don't PANIC over whether to buy the Trek 1000 or the Giant OCR3, or whatever. Bikes at a similar price point, especially in the budget range, are so similar that anyone who tries to tell you that one "sucks" and another is "so smooth" is blowing smoke. They might fit a little different with changes in geometry, just like jeans from different companies. In that respect, one may fit better than another. But to pretend there's a qualitative difference is pretty silly.

Those are my preliminary thoughts for now!
 
#3 ·
It ain't the bike, it is the shop.

dr hoo said:
This is a thread to advise people on buying their first road bike on a budget... no matter what that budget is. Post some advice that would be useful for people when they are starting the process. Post criteria for deciding between two bikes. Post anything you think EVERY first time road bike buyer should know before plunking down her or his cash and taking the leap.
If you don't know what you are doing find a shop that you like (or a shop where you like the employees). There is so little difference from brand to brand at similar prices until you are well over $1000 that the bike hardly matters. What does matter is the help you will get deciding on which of the many bikes and sizes available is right for you plus the service that you will get for free after the purchase.

Don't p-off the guys in the shop and you will get amazing service in the first months of ownership while you figure out what end is up. After a few months a 6-pack for the boys in the shop every so often will go a long way towards cementing a good relationship and pay you back many times over in "good guy" discounts and freebies. Doughnuts or home made treats work well too.....

MB1
A shop rat for over 30 years now

BTW if at all possible visit shops on weekdays or when the weather is bad. No matter what you do, how cute you may be or how much you are going to spend you just aren't going to get good service on a busy spring or summer weekend.
 
#4 ·
Nothing too profound, but...

1. When setting your budget for a new bike, always set aside a few hundred bucks for accessories such as helmet, tubes, patch kit, seat bag, etc. 1 flat tire 9 miles from home was all it took for me to learn my lesson.

2. It's all about the fit! Make sure your LBS employees take the time to fit you properly or find a new shop. If you don't ask for help with the fit, some shops won't bother with it. You will not want to ride an ill-fitting bike. Fit is overlooked by many 1st time bike buyers (myself included, but I lucked into 1 that fits well). Most 1st timers are more interested in a specific brand or color of bike. I'm astonished by how many folks I've seen in recent weeks riding the local recreational trails on "trail ready bikes" (Hybrids equipped w/ a handlebar mirror) that the LBS is pushing with either their knees pointing almost straight out to each side (seat too low), or their hips swaying dramatically with each pedal stroke (seat too high). The LBS employees could easily make the proper adjustments, but the people buying the bikes don't know any better.

Happy Buying and even Happier Riding!
 
#5 ·
I agree. If you are driven to RBR to ask such questions, then Im going to assume some general lack of knowledge. Its nothing bad, but there is a reason you are here on the beginners forum. MB1s advice is spot on. From shop to shop from Giant to Trek to Fuji, etc... all of the bikes at a certain price point will be pretty equal. All of the $799 bikes will have Sora, or Tiagra... or whatever comes on those types of bikes. But all of them will be about the same. The geometry will be different, though. As this will likely be a significant investment for you (otherwise you wouldn't be taking so much time investigating it)... then the shop is a good answer. Not only can they help you with fit, they will also often offer free maintenance for 3,6,12 months... or more... for routine stuff. Thats important if you aren't that good of a wrench. As you ride your bike more, it will get sloppy as you get cable stretch and wear, and thus this becomes more and more important. Bikes arent a science... but Ive seen experienced racers really screw up their drivetrains in a real short amount of time.

So... listen to MB1, listen to Kerry, listen to Bikeben... and there are others. But get you a bike that you are proud of and want to ride. Don't settle, cause you will be sorry... and upgrades are often more expensive than buying in a packaged bike so sometimes buying a little up, saves you money.
 
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#6 ·
Go to a bike shop & figure out what size you need & leave. Go to ebay & drill down to sports, cycling, road bikes & parts, complete bikes & frames. Click in your size range & look for a major brand with Shimano 105 at about 2 years old. This may take some patients but you can find a virtually new bike for half price. Buy it & ride it for a while till you figure out the details of what you really want. Sell it on ebay & move up.
 
#7 ·
Then don't ever expect or ask to get any service at that shop.

venus said:
Go to a bike shop & figure out what size you need & leave. Go to ebay & drill down to sports, cycling, road bikes & parts, complete bikes & frames. Click in your size range & look for a major brand with Shimano 105 at about 2 years old. This may take some patients but you can find a virtually new bike for half price. Buy it & ride it for a while till you figure out the details of what you really want. Sell it on ebay & move up.
You think the guys in the shop don't know what is going on?

That 2 year old bike is going to need some service and adjustment to actually fit correctly.

I hope there at least 2 shops in your town.
 
#8 · (Edited)
MB1 said:
You think the guys in the shop don't know what is going on?

That 2 year old bike is going to need some service and adjustment to actually fit correctly.

I hope there at least 2 shops in your town.
Ok, you own a local bike shop. Dude, this is a SHAKEDOWN BIKE. Fitting a bike to a beginner can be done by seat for/aft & height. Not much else to it on your basic road bike. Getting a 105 road bike almost new on ebay for half price is the way to go. Fitting is all so much s*** that one figures out relitive to their unique issues on their own if they have half a brain.
You are a shop owner & will be ready when they want something all new. Keep your rep up & help the newbe w/ his ebay purchase bike. Developing a relationship is half the score. How else can local bike shops compete with internet sales?
 
#9 ·
Actually, someone buying a first bike is VERY likely to need a GREAT relationship with a shop. When 500-600 will give you a solid ride, why not get in good with a shop? The free service and the help and advice will be more than worth it.

I bought our previous bikes at a garage sale, and a shop. Both were lightly used and cheap. They lasted us for 8 years. But then I don't need a shop, because I have been working on bikes for more years than that.

First bike, get it at a local bike shop. Without question. That is my advice to 99% of people.
 
#10 ·
LOL, of course not and I never would.

venus said:
Ok, you own a local bike shop.
OTOH I have worked in all parts of the industry for more than 30 years (just 1 day a week now :) ).

Old joke; "Tony, do you know how to make a small fortune in the bike business?"

"Sure Mark, start with a large fortune.":eek:


Truth hurts.:cool:
 
#368 ·
ha

OTOH I have worked in all parts of the industry for more than 30 years (just 1 day a week now :) ).

Old joke; "Tony, do you know how to make a small fortune in the bike business?"

"Sure Mark, start with a large fortune.":eek:


Truth hurts.:cool:
LOL, I can tell you and I would get along if you were my mechanic :thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
I had been mountain biking on and off for 7 years when I decided to give road biking a try. I was already looking at high end rigs but I knew I should try it out first so I set off looking for a used bike. I found an entry level Giant bike for $350. I loved it. After 2 years of riding I upgraded to a new bike and sold the Giant. I got $325 out of it and done nothing but clean the chain.
 
#12 ·
MB1 said:
OTOH I have worked in all parts of the industry for more than 30 years (just 1 day a week now :) ).

Old joke; "Tony, do you know how to make a small fortune in the bike business?"

"Sure Mark, start with a large fortune.":eek:


Truth hurts.:cool:
Hey, I was thinking of working for next to nothin at a local shop on weekends during Dec to build bikes & maybe learn how to tune an old Campy Record in exchange. Rebuilding a bottom bracket may not be rocket science but I respect the "touch" & little details learned w/ time.
 
#13 ·
Here's the advice I usually give people when they ask me. And being the kind of guy I am I normally start by asking questions.

"What kind of riding do you want to do"?

Let's assume the answer indicates a road bike. In other words, is a road bike of some flavor right for you? Think about it.

"How much do you want to spend"?

If you don't have gear, set aside at least $100 and better $200 for a helmet, shorts, and other accessories. For the bike itself, I say $500-600 US will get you a new road bike at a shop that will let you ride hard for 2 years. And remember, $730 dollars is a dollar a day for 2 years. Assuming you keep the chain clean and lubed and replace it once, you can put 10,000 miles on that bike, though that would trash it out unless you did more maintenance. For reference, if you ride 1000 miles your first year you will find yourself in a lot better shape.

Personally, I spent a grand on my latest bike, even though I could have spent more if I wanted to. I would have liked to have spent 3 grand sure, but really, it's just a bike. That other 2k will give me a lot of better returns elsewhere.

After price, I tell people to go to shops and test ride. Test the bike and interview (casually) the shop. A good shop is needed for newbies (unless you have a lot of years MTBing, in which case you are probably a good jackleg mechanic).

When riding, your position should have your torso at somewhere close to 45 degrees to the ground when on the hoods (top of brake levers). You will ride there a lot. And yes, you can use the brakes with your hands there.

Adjust the saddle. With the bike held upright by someone else, and you holding the bars and sitting in riding position, put one pedal down at "6 O'clock". Your heel should scrape it lightly when you swing your leg. When you put the ball of your foot on the pedal, your knee will bend to what will eventually be close to the perfect extension. It is not that yet. Lower the saddle a half inch (or a centimeter), and measure when you do to make sure you lower all the saddles on all the test rides the same amount.

If you really want to be sure, make sure the saddle is in the middle of the rails on each bike too.

If you do all that, you will not only be in close to a perfect riding position, but better able to judge the BIKE, and not the effect of your position on the bike. Pick the bike that feels best from the shop that you felt the most comfortable with in terms of service.

It's that simple :)

That is what I tell people when they ask me.
 
#15 ·
collectorvelo said:
You can find Brand new Road bikes on Ebay for under $300 almost all the time
Yes, and they will work, but I would not suggest going that cheap unless you are really strapped for cash.

Besides, building a relationship with a shop is a very good thing for a new rider who does not know the first thing about wrenching on a bicycle.
 
#16 ·
dr hoo said:
Yes, and they will work, but I would not suggest going that cheap unless you are really strapped for cash.

Besides, building a relationship with a shop is a very good thing for a new rider who does not know the first thing about wrenching on a bicycle.

And by the time you pay for the shipping and the local bike build, you've spent an additional $100 on something that adds nothing to the quality of the bike. Reasonable minds can differ, but buying a no-name bike on eBay is not the approach I'd recommend to a new cyclist, even one with budget constraints.

I do think that eBay is a terrific resource, and have twice bought bikes on eBay, but just not that weird no-name new stuff that's spec'd with all kinds of components you've never heard of, etc.
 
#17 ·
I did all of what was mentioned above. I shopped the LBS, Ebay, Craigslist etc...

I visited the LBS 3 seperate times and each time they fit me into a different bike. It always seemed to be the one they had the most of for like 400 more than I wanted to spend.

Yes I got some decent info about fit, but they always had me around $1200 which was past my budget for a 1st bike.

I decided to narrow the field to the best bike with the following features: Carbon Fork, 105 & Tiagra combo........That was it period!!!

I found a 2006 Specialized Allez Sport or something with the gear I wanted for $600
 
#18 ·
what are you talking about?

venus said:
Ok, you own a local bike shop. Dude, this is a SHAKEDOWN BIKE. Fitting a bike to a beginner can be done by seat for/aft & height. Not much else to it on your basic road bike. Getting a 105 road bike almost new on ebay for half price is the way to go. Fitting is all so much s*** that one figures out relitive to their unique issues on their own if they have half a brain.
You are a shop owner & will be ready when they want something all new. Keep your rep up & help the newbe w/ his ebay purchase bike. Developing a relationship is half the score. How else can local bike shops compete with internet sales?

if you think the only adjustments to a road bike are contained in the seat post...you need a bike SHAKEDOWN (whateve that means). Adjustments come in the form of stem length, bar drop, stem angle, shifter placement, seat height, seat distance fore/aft, crank length, pedal rise, seat angle, and Im' sure there are some others I'm forgetting...

sure, you can do all that yourself..but it requires parts and a bit of knowledge about what is what...and where to put it.
 
#19 ·
One of my favorite bikes was the cheapest to put together, it's a fixed gear. I have many geared bikes and yet my advice is to spend lots of money to help the economy and get the absolute best you can afford with your cash AND credit. Never buy a bike with compromises like cheap components. Aim for the fences!

You won't appreciate a middle of the road bike when you desire the top end. You've got to own a nice bike in order to learn to love a basic inexpensive fixed or singlespeed. I guess when you really know the difference you find you love cycling more than the bike. Then, you'll find you enjoy the feel more than the looks.
 
#20 ·
dr hoo said:
This is a thread to advise people on buying their first road bike on a budget... no matter what that budget is. Post some advice that would be useful for people when they are starting the process. Post criteria for deciding between two bikes. Post anything you think EVERY first time road bike buyer should know before plunking down her or his cash and taking the leap.
Boy, I think a lot of the posts on here about the value of buying your first bike at an LBS are living in some ideal fantasy world that rarely exists in reality. Yes, there are helpful shop employees out there, but there are also a lot of unhelpful ones who mainly want to sell a newbie whatever they can convince him he needs. And even the helpful ones who aren't trying to do that rarely have any kind of serious training in bike fit.

Average LBS "fit" experience:

"Here, this one looks like it's about your size. Throw a leg over that and let's see if the clearance is right. Yep, looks good. This one fits."

I frequent several different LBSes, and even at the best one in the area, I often hear the floor guys give advice that makes me shudder. These guys are basically retail sales clerks with a little bit of knowledge of bicycles, just like the kid at Circuit City is a retail sales clerk with a little bit of knowledge of appliances.

Best thing a newbie can do is use a good online fit calculator, buy a $300 bike on eBay, ride it for a year or two until they figure out what they really want, build a relationship with an LBS by paying for service when they need it, and then once they've ridden for a while and their body has adjusted to riding, go spend the coin for a professional fit session and a better-quality bike.

If you really think you need an LBS experience, ask for the manager or assistant manager to help you. At least they're pretty likely to know what they're doing.
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
There seems to be some debate on wether a new cyclist can buy a bike over the internet and get what they need. I hope I can shed some light on the subject.

I started riding again a few years ago after about 8 years off the bike. I started to improve my health, and because I remembered how much I used to enjoy it. I had a crappy old bike sitting around from when I was younger, and I started with that. After some time I decided that I needed more bike. I was on a seriously tight budget, so I thought I could buy a bike one component at a time and save money. This was after looking around several bike shops and getting some sticker shock. Surely I could do better on my own. I know how bikes work, after all, I'm an engineer. I do all of my own car repairs, and I used to maintain my bike. I don't need a bike shop.

I ordered parts, and finally put together a bike. I clamped the CF seat post too tight, and had to replace it. I didn't like the saddle I bought, and had to buy another one. I rode on tires that were too narrow for a long time. I bought a computer that won't fit on the oversized handlebars that I was using. I made quite a few mistakes, but I learned. My bike isn't the lightest thing going, but neither am I. I ended up putting together a full Ultegra bike for about $1500. I didn't beat the bike shop's price by anything significant, and I had to have them install the head set, bottom bracket, and trim the steer tube.

The things I did right were to have a hefty wheel set built. I have been very happy with my wheels. I do like having Ultegra, but 105 would work just fine for me. When I have to replace this bike I will probably go that route. The price of the bike that I thought I could beat was $850. I missed that by a long shot. Did I get a better bike? Maybe. But my bike could fit better too.

If I had it to do over again, I would find a good bike shop. One that I am comfortable with. I would find one that has good mechanics, and I would spend some time getting to know them, and making sure they know what I want. Then I would get them to build a bike for me if I couldn't find one they have in stock that would do the trick. I would go with Shimano 105 components, but only because Campy is pricy in my opinion.
 
#23 ·
No-Name?

jtolleson said:
And by the time you pay for the shipping and the local bike build, you've spent an additional $100 on something that adds nothing to the quality of the bike. Reasonable minds can differ, but buying a no-name bike on eBay is not the approach I'd recommend to a new cyclist, even one with budget constraints.

I do think that eBay is a terrific resource, and have twice bought bikes on eBay, but just not that weird no-name new stuff that's spec'd with all kinds of components you've never heard of, etc.

There are probably 200 brands of bikes sold in the USA right now -- most coming out of the exact same factories in Taiwan and China

Which are 'no-name' brands? What criteria defines a no-name brand?

If the brand is not one of the top 10 selling brands - is it no name?
If the brand has no dealer within 100 miles of you - is it no name?
If the brand has been around for less than 25 years - is it no name?

'no-name' brand is a non-sense term with no clear definition
bikes have specs
specs are easy to understand
value is easy to evaluate
 
#24 ·
Big Bad John said:
Surely I could do better on my own. I know how bikes work, after all, I'm an engineer. I do all of my own car repairs, and I used to maintain my bike. I don't need a bike shop.

I ordered parts, and finally put together a bike. I clamped the CF seat post too tight, and had to replace it. I didn't like the saddle I bought, and had to buy another one. I rode on tires that were too narrow for a long time. I bought a computer that won't fit on the oversized handlebars that I was using. I made quite a few mistakes, but I learned.
doing some research would help alot.. also being carful..

i goto the bike shop near me and use their tools.. i swap out my bottom brackets and stuff..

(i wonder if by install a headset you meant press in the cups?) because with some common sense not long after i got into biking i built a complete bike up for my girlfriend from nothing..

i built wheels, installed fork/headset, cranks, casset, deraileur and adjusted it, bars, stem..

about the only thing i didnt do was cut the fork and install the star but.. i got a fork off another bike..

if you are clever enough, you can do these things yourself.. and even if you dont know, there are online guides.. or just go in the shop and ask!

i think the hardest thing to figure out on a bike is the deraileurs.. and after a 20 second explination that went something like "the screws set the limits, how far out and how far in the deraileur will go. make sure you cannot shift into the spokes. adjust the cable slack so the chain fits on the cogs well"
i could magically do it myself


get the frame, off of those demensions, get steat post and fork.. stem off of the fork, bars off of the stem..

dont be afraid to put on parts from other bikes to make this one rideable .. you dont have to get everything at once..
 
#25 ·
Here is a best of both worlds approch my friend used to get a great road bike put together, and it would work well for a noob.

Go to lbs at the end of the season, find a good deal on a bike that fits, get all that fit help ect. Buy said entry level bike for 500$ or so. Ride said bike all you want, while at the same time shop around for new parts, upgrades ect. Before long you have a great bike with nice components. Added bonus for getting those people looking at your bike and dismissing it because it is a cheep frame then putting it on the scale and having it weigh the same or less than their 2000$ bike :D

Seriously it gives you the advantage of having a bike, having a good relationship with your LBS and in the end having good solid components.
 
#26 ·
what are the real tradeoffs in going cheaper

I don't have the answers...just hoping someone will post a response...

I know the shimano spec line; i.e. ultegra, 105, tiagra, sora...but what does it really mean for a newbie? Went looking for a road bike for my wife last night and, at one shop, seemed like the entry level option they wanted to offer was the Trek 1500 for around $1200 or so. Another shop had a Raleigh Supercourse for 999. The Raleigh has 105 chainring and ultegra cassette. It seems a good deal. But I've already bought into this whole name-game of quality and I don't really know what it means for my wife. (In fairness to the first shop, I started off by saying I wanted a 105 component bike; second shop, I said budget 600-1000.)

We got home and had the "Why should anyone have to pay $1000 for a bike?" conversation. I don't want to pressure her into getting the 105/Ultegra bike, but I also don't want to "cheap out" and get some clunky thing that constantly needs adjustment and is a POS.

So, what really matters; i.e. what does 105 buy you over Tiagra or something else?

Is it component weight? That doesn't matter for our purposes.

Is it durability? OK, but does that mean the parts last longer (not so relevent if you plan to ride 1000 miles a year) or does it mean the parts need a lot of adjustment and tweaking to keep the shifting smooth? I don't want to have my wife riding a bike that I have to do maintenence on every week before we go for a ride.

It helps to start with a budget, I know, and our budget was essentially "under 1000." So, big suprise, we found a bike for $999. But now I am thinking our budget should really be more like $600. So, once you go there, what exactly are the tradeoffs?
 
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