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  1. #1
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    First bike, Specialized S-Works M4

    After a few weeks of research, trying the local bike store's, scouring craigslist, I finally found one.

    I was looking for an entry level bike and was going between a LBS and craigslist. I decided not to do craigslist, but was still perusing it since I wasn't quite finding what I wanted at the stores. So I saw a Specialized S-works M4 pop up one day. The size is still a mystery, but I am sure it's a 58cm. Nonetheless, I don't care what size it is because it feels great to ride. This bike is 13 years old. "2000", so it was made in 1999. It is some kind of special aluminum matrix with a bunch of different other metals. It's hard to find much information on it, but there are no cracks and no weird noises. The rest of the bike is made entirely of ultegra components. The Previous owner said he got the frame brand new at a swap meet 7 years ago and built it up. He was a nice family guy so it didn't feel awkward or full of pressure like many craigslist dealings. He was also 6'1" just like me but my inseam is a bit shorter so my seat is down a cm or two.

    Anyway.. It is a lot of fun to ride! The short wheel base is a little squirrely but I don't mind it. I think it was built to be a sprint bike. I've gotten it up to 27mph on a flat but I'm sure I can do better with clipless pedals and some more conditioning.

    Enough with the blabbering, some pictures!








    I'll get better ones in the future, it has been gloomy outside lately and quite cold. This camera brings out the dirt on the frame a lot. It's quite good looking in person, but does show some age on the paint job. It also has an aerodynamic piece that is supposed to be under the seat. I need to shave a cm or less off of it so the seat will fit where I want it.

    The front derailleur isn't working how I'd like. It shifts for a 3 speed but this crank has 2 sprockets. I've been tinkering with the adjustments but it's not quite working great still. Only had about 10 minutes to fiddle with it though. The rear shifts perfectly.

    I'm curious about the wheels though, are they better than what you find on say a trek 1.1-5? Front is the moskva 80 (pictured as the "made in italy" one with an ultegra axle, the rear is the mavic cosmos wheel as pictured. Very loud clicking.


    Any tips are appreciated. It's too bad it's getting cold out but I ride it every week day for my commute now. Can't wait for the miles too come. Thank you to those who helped me with the questions I had posted earlier. I probably wrote too much here, but it's all very new and cool to me and I can't help but share
    Last edited by Rocky_Road; 10-12-2012 at 04:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    After a few weeks of research, trying the local bike store's, scouring craigslist, I finally found one.

    I was looking for an entry level bike and was going between a LBS and craigslist. I decided not to do craigslist, but was still perusing it since I wasn't quite finding what I wanted at the stores. So I saw a Specialized S-works M4 pop up one day. The size is still a mystery, but I am sure it's a 58cm. Nonetheless, I don't care what size it is because it feels great to ride. This bike is 13 years old. "2000", so it was made in 1999. It is some kind of special aluminum matrix with a bunch of different other metals. It's hard to find much information on it, but there are no cracks and no weird noises. The rest of the bike is made entirely of ultegra components. The Previous owner said he got the frame brand new at a swap meet 7 years ago and built it up. He was a nice family guy so it didn't feel awkward or full of pressure like many craigslist dealings. He was also 6'1" just like me but my inseam is a bit shorter so my seat is down a cm or two.

    Anyway.. It is a lot of fun to ride! The short wheel base is a little squirrely but I don't mind it. I think it was built to be a sprint bike. I've gotten it up to 27mph on a flat but I'm sure I can do better with clipless pedals and some more conditioning.

    The front derailleur isn't working how I'd like. It shifts for a 3 speed but this crank has 2 sprockets. I've been tinkering with the adjustments but it's not quite working great still. Only had about 10 minutes to fiddle with it though. The rear shifts perfectly.

    I'm curious about the wheels though, are they better than what you find on say a trek 1.1-5? Front is the moskva 80 (pictured as the "made in italy" one with an ultegra axle, the rear is the mavic cosmos wheel as pictured. Very loud clicking.


    Any tips are appreciated. It's too bad it's getting cold out but I ride it every week day for my commute now. Can't wait for the miles too come. Thank you to those who helped me with the questions I had posted earlier. I probably wrote too much here, but it's all very new and cool to me and I can't help but share
    Congrats on your new (to you) bike.

    Specialized marketed the bike as having a metal matrix frame, which (I think) is a blend of aluminum, scandium and possibly magnesium. So a lighter, stronger aluminum frame, which makes sense given it's S-Works designation.

    Specialized generally measures their frames from the center of BB to top of seat tube, so if you care to, you can measure and see what you get.

    Re: the front derailleur, I suspect you have a triple FD shifter that's out of adjustment for a double crankset. If you opt to make the adjustment yourself, post and we'll give you the steps to get it right.

    I don't know enough about the wheels to comment, other than to say Ultegra hubs are high quality and loud pawls are not indicative of a problem. Although, it may be indicative of the need for some maintenance (cleaning/ lubing).

  3. #3
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    Nice find. Get that front shifter set up properly!!! If you force the shift to function you will break the shifter. This from personal experience.
    People sleep peaceably at night because rough men and woman stand ready to do violence on their behalf. George Orwell

    Oregon Bike MS 2013 Team Matfam

  4. #4
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    Thanks! If the BB is the center of the crank, I measured approximately 23.5 inches which translates to 58cm. I am quite pleased to learn that. Not that it truly matters since I like the fit, but it makes me feel better none the less. So far I am super excited about the bike!

    I found on the frame a label for all the elements, V, Si,Cu, Mg, Al. Quite an interesting blend!

    I tried adjusting the front derailer. I got it down okay. I don't have to force anything and it is all smooth, but I have to pump it all the way 2 times to change the gear. Once I do that, clearance is perfect.
    So far I ride it every day to get to class. I haven't done any distance rides yet It's just getting colder and windier here in Colorado so it isn't very pleasant.

    The only bad thing that has happened is I lost air in my rear tire while on campus. I hadn't been carrying anything with me since my apartment is only about 1.5miles away. Once I got back and fiddled with some things, I learned that I had this magical valve called a presta valve. Every time I had been topping off the tires to 110psi I was actually doing nothing... So now that I've learned how to operate a presta valve and the tires are back to full power, I'm pumped for tomorrow's ride and how much smoother it'll be. Not to mention faster.
    I love this bike!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    Thanks! If the BB is the center of the crank, I measured approximately 23.5 inches which translates to 58cm. I am quite pleased to learn that. Not that it truly matters since I like the fit, but it makes me feel better none the less. So far I am super excited about the bike!
    Yes, the center of the BB is the center of the crank, so you measured correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    I found on the frame a label for all the elements, V, Si,Cu, Mg, Al. Quite an interesting blend!
    Here's an abstract on those elements. After reading it, you'll need a bike ride to clear the head.
    HRTEM Characterization Of Melt-Spun Al-Si-Cu-Mg Alloys Solidified At Different Rates

    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    I tried adjusting the front derailer. I got it down okay. I don't have to force anything and it is all smooth, but I have to pump it all the way 2 times to change the gear. Once I do that, clearance is perfect.
    So far I ride it every day to get to class. I haven't done any distance rides yet It's just getting colder and windier here in Colorado so it isn't very pleasant.
    From this description, I can't say whether or not you have the FD adjusted correctly, but will offer that when it is set up correctly you'll hear two clicks to execute a shift - first is trim, second shifts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    The only bad thing that has happened is I lost air in my rear tire while on campus. I hadn't been carrying anything with me since my apartment is only about 1.5miles away. Once I got back and fiddled with some things, I learned that I had this magical valve called a presta valve. Every time I had been topping off the tires to 110psi I was actually doing nothing... So now that I've learned how to operate a presta valve and the tires are back to full power, I'm pumped for tomorrow's ride and how much smoother it'll be. Not to mention faster.
    Yer learnin'..

  6. #6
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    Congrats!! She's a beauty!
    Bill

    “You can change or stay the same, there are no rules to this thing...We can make the best or the worst of it."

  7. #7
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    Nice first bike! Congrats!

  8. #8
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    nice bike, but not S-works

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wynnbb View Post
    nice bike, but not S-works
    You would be incorrect on that.

    Early Specialized S-Works have that designation on the seat tube (as the OP's bike illustrates) or seat stays as is the case of the '04 S-Works E5 road.
    BikePedia - 2004 Specialized S-Works E5 Road Complete Bicycle

    ... or top tube and chainstays as is the case of the '06/ '07 Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL
    BikePedia - 2006 Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL Complete Bicycle

    ... similar on the '09 Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL2
    BikePedia - 2009 Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL2 Red Complete Bicycle

    It wasn't until the 2010 model year that the company separated the two house 'brands' with a more prominent S-Works designation on the down tube and smaller (Spec) decal on the top tube.
    BikePedia - 2010 Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL3 SRAM Complete Bicycle

  10. #10
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    Thanks!
    The first snow was today, got caught after being at the rec center for a while.

    Thought I'd try and snag a few photos!





    The blue tape is to hold the hand pump and doesn't affect the paint when I remove it.

    I did my best to dry it off. I really hope this won't hurt the bike. So far I am in love with it!! Any suggestions to keep it in good shape for the unavoidable rain/sleet/ and snow to come?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    Thanks!
    The first snow was today, got caught after being at the rec center for a while.

    Thought I'd try and snag a few photos!

    The blue tape is to hold the hand pump and doesn't affect the paint when I remove it.

    I did my best to dry it off. I really hope this won't hurt the bike. So far I am in love with it!! Any suggestions to keep it in good shape for the unavoidable rain/sleet/ and snow to come?
    Snow already? I feel sorry for you... haha but no, that won't hurt the bike. The big thing is cleaning and lubricating the chainrings/cogs/chain/derailers after wet and gritty rides.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rocky_Road View Post
    Thanks!
    The first snow was today, got caught after being at the rec center for a while.

    The blue tape is to hold the hand pump and doesn't affect the paint when I remove it.

    I did my best to dry it off. I really hope this won't hurt the bike. So far I am in love with it!! Any suggestions to keep it in good shape for the unavoidable rain/sleet/ and snow to come?
    I don't know that there's anything wrong with using tape to affix the pump, but you might want to consider velcro straps - or getting a mini-pump that securely attaches at the cage bolts.

    Riding in the wet means picking up dirt/ grit that (IME) is bad for chains and brake pads/ surfaces, so it's important to clean those and lube the chain after every use.

    Snow isn't quite as bad as riding in a downpour, because bearing assemblies (BB's/ hubs/ headsets) are less subject to water intrusion, but I'd still give the bike a quick wipe down as well. Riding on salted roads (obviously) would require its removal.

    FWIW, I wax my frameset with Meguiar's car wax (or similar). Usually once yearly suffices.

  13. #13
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    Just a quick update..
    I am the O.P. - 6 years later I got a job at Specialized couldn't be more happy about it. Sorry for the necro of this old post, but the avenues that bicycles open up are endless!
    Last edited by Rocky_Road; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:43 PM.

  14. #14
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
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    I hope you aren’t a lawyer for them...

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